The southern slopes of Jebel Shulayr (Sierra Nevada), the last Muslim strongholds after the fall of Granada; white terraced villages with flat roofs in the Moroccan style, such as Pampaneira, Capileira and Trevélez, and Andalusian irrigation channels still watering the orchards.
Chapter One
âGranadaâ was the capital of the Nasrid kingdom (1238â1492 CE), the last Islamic kingdom in al-Andalus, and the Alhambra and the AlbaicĂn quarter there are both listed as World Heritage. Boabdil (Muhammad XII) handed it over on 2 January 1492 CE.
Figures of Granada
Muhammad I ibn al-Ahmar
The founder of the Nasrid state, who made Granada his capital in 1238 CE and began building the Alhambra; his motto âwa la ghaliba illa Allahâ is carved into its walls.
Ibn al-Jatib
A minister, man of letters and historian, born in Loja, author of âal-Ihata fi akhbar Gharnataâ; his verses are carved in the Alhambra.
Ibn Zamrak
A Nasrid poet and minister whose poems adorn the walls of the Alhambra, including the poem on the âPatio de los Leonesâ.
Boabdil (Muhammad XII)
The last sultan of Granada, who handed it over in 1492 CE and ended his days in Fez.
Chapter Two
4 hour-by-hour day plans and 3 walking routes I drew myself in Granada, with the places to pray and eat where I marked them.
Chapter Three
130 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
The crown of Islamic architecture in al-Andalus: the citadel and palaces of the Nasrids (Banu al-Ahmar) from the 13th and 14th centuries, the most notable being the Comares Palace, the Hall of the Ambassadors and the Hall of the Lions built by Muhammad V. Its walls are adorned with the verses of Ibn Zamrak and the motto âThere is no victor but Godâ.
My tip
Book weeks ahead from the official site only, and bring your passport; the entry time to the Nasrid palaces is strict, so allow half a day, and try the night visit.
The AlbaicĂn is the oldest of Granada's quarters, its Zirid core dating to the 11th century, with paved lanes and walled houses known as âcĂĄrmenesâ. After the fall, it was the last Muslim stronghold. From the Mirador de San NicolĂĄs there is the most famous view of the Alhambra, with the snowy mountains behind it.
My tip
Take the small bus C31/C32 and walk down through the alleys; sunrise is calmer than the very crowded sunset, and Granada's modern Great Mosque is next to the lookout.
The first public university in al-Andalus, founded by Sultan Abu al-Hajjaj Yusuf I in 750 AH/1349 CE under the supervision of his chamberlain Ridwan. Its original prayer hall still stands, with its mihrab, muqarnas dome and Arabic inscriptions, and it now belongs to the Universidad de Granada.
My tip
Entry is free and the visit is short; closed on Sunday. Combine it with the Capilla Real and La AlcaicerĂa, both opposite.
· Almuñécar
A statue of Abd al-Rahman I, the âFalcon of Qurayshâ, at the spot where he landed on the coast of al-Andalus at Almuñécar in 138 AH/755 CE, fleeing the Abbasids. From there he went to CĂłrdoba and founded the Umayyad emirate, which lasted nearly three centuries.
My tip
In the old San Miguel district below the Castillo de San Miguel (Almuñécar); a short staircase and a view of the sea. About an hour from Granada or Målaga.
· Alcalå la Real
A hilltop city-fortress that was the stronghold of the Banu Said, the family of Ibn Said al-Maghribi, author of âal-Mughrib fi hulan al-Maghribâ. Later it was one of the most important frontier posts of the Kingdom of Granada, until its fall in 1341 CE. It has walls, towers, archaeological quarters and an excellent audio route.
My tip
The ticket includes a phone audio guide; allow two hours and bring a hat and water. About 50 minutes from Granada.
On the ground floor of the Palace of Carlos V, the most important museum of Nasrid art in the world. Among its outstanding pieces are the âGazelle Vaseâ, and the doors, plasterwork and ceramics from the Alhambra's palaces.
My tip
Entry is free and does not require an Alhambra ticket; visit it before the Nasrid palaces to understand them.
Artesanos de Granada
A patisserie, bakery and brunch spot (focaccia, croissants, toast)
TryFocaccia, croissants, toast
âA craft cafĂ© and bakery for an excellent breakfast and fresh sweets.â
Everyday clothes · Suits families and children and couples
Restaurante Patio Andaluz
Home-style Andalusian cooking in a large courtyard; evenings Friday and Saturday only
TryHome-style Andalusian dishes, fried fish
âAn Andalusian kitchen in a large courtyard on the outskirts of Granada, comfortable for families.â
Booking advised · Casual · Suits families and children and friends and groups
FaralĂĄ
Refined Andalusian cooking and flamenco shows next to the Alhambra palace; closed Mondays and Tuesdays
TryThe refined Andalusian tasting menu
âAn elegant Andalusian kitchen with a view of the Alhambra palace.â
Booking essential · Smart casual · Suits couples and friends and groups
Atelier Casa de Comidas
An innovative tasting menu at excellent value for money; closed Sundays and Mondays
TryTasting menu
âSkilful contemporary cooking, rated 4.7, one of the best finds in Granada.â
Booking essential · Casual · Suits couples and business meetings
Mirador de Morayma
Granadan cooking in a âCarmenâ in the AlbaicĂn with a view of the Alhambra; closed Mondays, Sunday lunch only
TryCod, orange salad, grilled meat
âA Granadan carmen with its gardens and a direct view of the Alhambra palace.â
Booking essential · Everyday clothes · Suits couples and business meetings
Restaurante Arrayanes
A Moroccan restaurant in the AlbaicĂn (tagine, pastilla, couscous), alcohol-free; closed Tuesdays
TryTagine, pastilla, couscous
âA Moroccan kitchen in the AlbaicĂn serving tagine and pastilla, alcohol-free, popular with Arab families.â
Booking advised · Casual · Suits families and children, couples and friends and groups
The Nasrid sultans' summer retreat on the Hill of the Sun, opposite the Alhambra, with the famous Patio de la Acequia, its terraced gardens, and the water channels that embody the idea of paradise in the Islamic garden.
My tip
Included in the general Alhambra ticket; spring (AprilâMay) is its best season, when the roses bloom and the orange blossom is in the air.
· Archidona
A white Andalusian-style village set in 350 hectares of olive and oak between Granada and MĂĄlaga, with large pools, a spa and children's clubs. Kings and presidents have stayed there.
My tip
45 minutes from Granada: an ideal base for visiting the Alhambra by day and returning to the countryside at night; ask for villas with private gardens for large families.
· Capileira
A hotel in Capileira, the highest village in the Alpujarra, with views over the Barranco de Poqueira and the Sierra Nevada peaks, and an outdoor pool.
My tip
The Alpujarra was the last Muslim stronghold after the fall of Granada (the revolt of 1568 CE); tour the villages of Pampaneira, BubiĂłn and Capileira, with their Berber architecture.
· Pampaneira
A small hotel with wide views over the Alpujarra valley in Pampaneira, one of the loveliest white villages, with the flat mud roofs inherited from the Andalusis.
My tip
A summer swimming pool and a car park; the village suits a short family walk among the alleys and irrigation channels.
· Monachil
A gorge near Granada, with a suspension bridge 55 m long and walkways where walkers pass stooped under the rocks. A short adventure that children love.
My tip
The suspension bridge is sometimes closed for maintenance; check before you go, and in summer start early.
· Bérchules (Alpujarra)
Rural houses in the Alpujarra style above BĂ©rchules, with a wide view, a spa and a good restaurant.
My tip
Book massages in advance; the road is winding and mountainous, and it is 2 hours from Granada.
· Pampaneira
White villages terraced on the slopes of the Sierra Nevada (Pampaneira, BubiĂłn and Capileira), with flat roofs and an Andalusi irrigation system. They were the last refuge of Muslims after the fall of Granada, where Boabdil was exiled. Then the Morisco revolt broke out (1568), led by Ibn Umayya.
What to see
Villages of Pampaneira, BubiĂłn and Capileira · flat roofs and Berber-style chimneys · Andalusi water channels and the âFuente Agriaâ spring · handmade âjarapaâ rugs · paths and bridges of the Poqueira gorge
My tip
An hour and a quarter from Granada by a winding mountain road; a full day, and buy a hand-woven Alpujarran rug.
· Ăbeda
Twin cities inscribed as World Heritage on the olive plateau of Jaén. Until the 13th century they were among the great cities of northern al-Andalus, and then they were adorned with the most beautiful Renaissance architecture in Spain.
What to see
Ăbeda: Plaza VĂĄzquez de Molina and its palaces · Ăbedaâs walls and the Puerta de Granada · the Mirador promenade over the sea of olives · Baeza: Plaza de los Leones (El PĂłpulo) and the Puerta de JaĂ©n · the old university and the walls promenade in Baeza
My tip
An hour and a half from Granada or CĂłrdoba; start with Baeza in the morning, then Ăbeda, and most sights close at midday.
· Alhama de Granada
Alhama de Granada, which the Arabs named for its hot baths, is a town perched on the edge of the Alhama river gorge between Granada and MĂĄlaga. Its fall in 887 AH/1482 CE marked the beginning of the last Granada War.
What to see
Tajos balconies above the gorge · the old MorerĂa quarter · water mills on the river · the Arab cistern (al-Matamir) · the Arab baths at the spa
My tip
Walk from the main square to the gorge balconies, then go down the Mill Path along the riverbank; finish at the Arab bath inside the town's spa (mentioned in the guide). A perfect quiet day from Granada (50 minutes).
· Monachil
A water adventure 20 minutes from Granada: suspension bridges swaying over the river, narrow passages under a huge rock that you crawl beneath, small waterfalls and pools to cool off in. A loop of about 5â8 km in 2.5â3 hours, easy to moderate. Children from 6 years old love it.
My tip
Wear non-slip shoes and download the trail map (the signs are incomplete), and avoid midday in summer. The trail is free; park in the village of Monachil and start from the river side.
· Almuñécar
An organic farm in the mountains of Almuñécar â the port where Abd al-Rahman I landed in 755 CE â grows mangoes, avocados, papayas and cherimoyas, and its owner leads the tour himself, then serves a rural lunch in the open air.
My tip
Advance booking is essential; ask for a lunch without pork or wine. The best time is SeptemberâNovember, for the mango and cherimoya season.
One of Spain's largest science museums: interactive halls, a planetarium dome, and a âBiodomoâ with a tropical forest and water basins, plus butterflies and birds-of-prey shows.
My tip
Book the tickets, the Biodomo and the planetarium dome in advance; about a full day. An outdoor leisure area.
A hammam inspired by the baths of the Alhambra at its foot, with marble basins at graded temperatures, domes with star-shaped skylights, mint tea, and an optional massage.
My tip
It opens until midnight; book in advance, and a 90-minute session is enough.
· Sierra Nevada
The highest peaks on the peninsula (Jabal Shulayr to the Andalusis) and the southernmost major ski resort in Europe, 45 minutes from Granada, with hotels, restaurants and snow activities for families.
My tip
Ski season runs from December to April; in summer it is for walking and the cable car, and dress warmly even in spring.
· GĂŒĂ©jar Sierra
20 minutes from Granada, a protected via ferrata in the Sierra Nevada, with suspension bridges, a DNA-shaped ladder and two 130-metre zip lines, and views over the Canales dam.
My tip
For the inexperienced, use a guiding company that provides the equipment and the pulley; it takes about two hours, and avoid the midday heat in summer.
Opened in 2003 next to the Mirador de San NicolĂĄs, the first congregational mosque in Granada in five centuries. Its garden looks directly onto the Alhambra.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually around 13:30 to 14:30 (and may be delayed to 15:00 in summer); check the mosque before it. The sermon is at 14:30 all year, according to the worshippers; for women there is a prayer hall and an inside entrance. Maghrib prayer there with the sunset over the Alhambra is an unforgettable experience.
· Granada (ZaidĂn)
One of the highest-rated halal butchers in Granada: high quality, excellent chicken and plenty of spices.
My tip
Midday break 14:00â17:30; open Sunday mornings only.
· Granada (Norte)
A large, clean halal butcher north of the city, visited by resident Muslims for the quality of its meat.
My tip
Open until 15:00 on Sunday; its prices are slightly above average.
· Granada (AlbaicĂn)
A small family butcher on the craftsmen's street at the foot of the AlbaicĂn, with fresh meat, burgers, spices and groceries.
My tip
The closest to visitors in the old centre of Granada; the street is for pedestrians only.
The Convent of San Francisco, within the Alhambra walls themselves, built on a Nasrid palace. It is the only place to stay inside the Alhambra.
My tip
Book months ahead; you can leave the car after checking out to visit the Alhambra.
A four-star hotel adjoining Granada Cathedral in the heart of the city (formerly named Eurostars Catedral), with balconies overlooking the cathedral.
A 16th-century palace converted into a boutique hotel in the AlbaicĂn, near Plaza Nueva, and some of its rooms overlook the Alhambra.
A neo-Nasrid hotel (1910) on the slope of the Alhambra, with panoramic views over Granada.
My tip
Ask for a room with a balcony over the city.
A 19th-century palace in central Granada that combines a historic building with a modern wing, a garden inspired by the gardens of the Alhambra, and a spa in the style of the Arab bath.
My tip
Its location is near Calle Reyes CatĂłlicos and the cathedral district; book the spa in advance.
A 17th-century Granadan house in the AlbaicĂn, with a quiet inner courtyard and carved wooden ceilings, close to Carrera del Darro and the Alhambra.
My tip
Afternoon tea is included; leave the car in a public car park because the alleys are narrow.
The old Nasrid silk market next to the cathedral, with narrow lanes in the form of Eastern bazaars. It was rebuilt after the 1843 fire and sells ceramics, wood inlay (taracea) and lanterns.
My tip
Distinguish local crafts (taracea and Granada pottery, âFajalauzaâ) from the same imported goods seen everywhere; ask for âhecho en Granadaâ.
A family workshop for Granadan taracea: wood inlaid with bone and mother-of-pearl in Nasrid geometric patterns. They make boxes, chessboards and tables by hand near the Alhambra.
My tip
They ship large pieces internationally; compare with the Taracea Valdivieso workshop on the Cuesta de Gomérez.
The old Nasrid silk market, near the former Great Mosque, was rebuilt after the 1843 fire in the same style. Today its narrow lanes are a Moroccan-style market, with lanterns, zellige, pottery and spices.
My tip
Compare prices between shops; buy copper trays and Granada pottery, âFajalauzaâ, as an authentic souvenir.
The loveliest walk in Granada, along the River Darro beneath the Alhambra walls, passing the hammam and the stone bridges, and ending in a square of cafés overlooking the illuminated Alhambra towers.
My tip
Walk from Plaza Nueva to the Paseo in the afternoon, then have dinner there when the Alhambra is lit up.
A historic street bearing its Arabic name âal-Saqqatin/al-Zuqaqinâ, once the hub of Nasrid Granada's trade, running alongside La AlcaicerĂa. Today it has jewellery and gift shops.
My tip
From it, go on to Plaza Bib-Rambla (Bab al-Ramla) and La AlcaicerĂa in one trip.
The best-known mountain shop in Granada and the gateway to preparing for the Sierra Nevada and the Alpujarras. It is small, but rich in good brands and competitive prices.
My tip
Buy wool layers (Merino) and walking poles before climbing the Sierra Nevada, where it is much colder than the city even in summer; closes at midday and on Saturday evenings.
One of the oldest squares in Granada, bearing the Andalusian name âBab al-Ramlaâ on the bank of the Darro river. In the Nasrid era it was the arena for celebrations and jousts; today it is a square of cafĂ©s and flower stalls around a fountain, a few steps from the cathedral and La AlcaicerĂa.
My tip
Order chocolate with churros at one of the square's cafĂ©s in the morning, then enter the neighbouring La AlcaicerĂa (the old Andalusi market).
An Andalusian hammam at the foot of the Alhambra, modelled on the baths of the Nasrid palaces, with marble basins at three temperatures, a steam room and star-shaped windows in the domes. It is the closest modern experience to an authentic Andalusian hammam.
My tip
Sessions are mixed, with swimwear, and limited in number; for privacy choose the first morning slot or ask about the exclusive group booking, and the place is not suitable for small children.
Opened in 1903 on the Plaza de Mariana Pineda and run by the same family for generations. It is known for its chocolate, churros and artisan ice cream, and it is a long-standing popular gathering place for the people of Granada.
My tip
âChocolate con churrosâ for breakfast or after visiting the Alhambra, or the house ice cream in summer. Ask to sit on the upper floor.
Operating since 1907 on the Bab al-Ramla square, which in the Nasrid era was the arena for Granada's celebrations and horsemanship games. With its old decoration and its terrace among the flower stalls, it is one of the city's most venerable cafés.
My tip
Churros with chocolate for breakfast on the terrace. Early morning is best, before the square fills up.
A long-established sweet shop on Calle de los Reyes CatĂłlicos, founded in 1862, one of the oldest shops still trading in Granada. It keeps its traditional character and is known for âpiononoâ sweets, burnt cream cakes and empanadas.
My tip
âPiononosâ or âbizcocho de crema tostadaâ with coffee, or chocolate and churros in winter. Mornings are best, and it closes at noon.
· Bayårcal
A mountain pass at 2000 m in the Sierra Nevada between Granada and AlmerĂa, among pine forests, with a cross-country ski station and sledging slopes for children in winter, and walking in summer.
My tip
After snowfall, check that the road is open. Children's sledges for rent in winter. And take your litter with you.
· AlbaicĂn
The oldest Andalusian neighbourhood in Granada, on the hill opposite the Alhambra, with winding alleys and white houses with âcarmenâ gardens. It was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list for preserving its Andalusian urban fabric. From its terraces there is the finest view of the Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada mountains.
What to see
San NicolĂĄs viewpoint (Mirador) · Granadaâs Grand Mosque and its garden · the Arab baths El Bañuelo · Palacio de Dar al-Horra · Calle CaldererĂa Nueva (the teterĂas and the market) · Carrera del Darro street
My tip
Best time: sunrise or sunset from the Mirador de San NicolĂĄs (very crowded at sunset). Calle CaldererĂa is full of Moroccan and Levantine halal restaurants and teterĂas. Take the small C31/C32 bus and walk down; beware of pickpockets at the lookout at night.
· Centro
The Jewish quarter of Andalusian Granada (Granada of the Jews), on the southern slope of the Alhambra hill. Today it combines traditional houses, street art and quiet cafĂ©s. It contains a rare Nasrid remnant, the âRoyal Domeâ (Cuarto Real de Santo Domingo).
What to see
Campo del PrĂncipe square · the Nasrid Royal Dome (Cuarto Real de Santo Domingo) · Carmen de los MĂĄrtires and its gardens · Casa de los Tiros · street murals by the street artist El Niño de las Pinturas · climb to the Alhambra via Cuesta de GomĂ©rez
My tip
Best time: afternoon and evening in the Campo del PrĂncipe square. Moroccan halal restaurants are close by in the centre, and in Granada free tapas come with a drink, so ask for them âsin cerdoâ. A quiet, safe neighborhood.
· AlbaicĂn / Sacromonte
The quarter of carved caves in the hills east of the AlbaicĂn, inhabited by Gypsies since the 16th century, which became the cradle of the Granadan âzambraâ for flamenco. It overlooks the Darro valley and the Alhambra from a different angle. It represents a unique face of popular Granada.
What to see
Sacromonte Caves Museum · Sacromonte Abbey (AbadĂa) · zambra performances in the caves · the view of the Alhambra from Vereda de Enmedio · the Darro road (Paseo de los Tristes)
My tip
Best time: afternoon for the cave museum, and evening for flamenco shows. Food options are limited; eat in the AlbaicĂn before climbing up. The paths are steep and unpaved, and it is not advised to wander the remote outskirts at night.
One of the largest Spanish universities and one of the most welcoming to European exchange students (Erasmus), strong in translation, Arab and Islamic studies, and computer science. It combines serious study with an Andalusian city where living costs are lower than in Madrid and Barcelona.
My tip
The university's Modern Languages Centre (CLM) is an excellent option for learning Spanish before enrolling. Visit the Royal Hospital (Hospital Real), the seat of the rectorate.
The University of Granada's centre for teaching Spanish, one of the university centres most welcoming to international students. It offers intensive courses, courses in Spanish culture and history, and DELE preparation courses, in historic buildings in the Realejo quarter.
My tip
An excellent choice for combining Spanish study with Andalusi heritage; the teachers' level varies, so ask to change group if it does not suit you.
Chapter Four
My view in brief: April to June, and September to November. Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holidayBars: lowest and highest temperature
April7° to 20°
Mild (7â20°C), and the mountains are still snow-capped. We recommend combining snow in the morning with the Alhambra in the afternoon.
No events listed in April. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Five
From my own stays
I stayed here in 2021â â â â
A four-star hotel adjoining Granada Cathedral in the heart of the city (formerly named Eurostars Catedral), with balconies overlooking the cathedral.
I stayed here in 2019â â â
A 16th-century palace converted into a boutique hotel in the AlbaicĂn, near Plaza Nueva, and some of its rooms overlook the Alhambra.
Where I wouldn't stay
Upper AlbaicĂn and Sacromonte at nightAlbaicĂn alto / Sacromonte
Dark, empty lanes at night with cases of pickpocketing; return by taxi or bus after dinner.
The northern area (AlmanjĂĄyar)Zona Norte (AlmanjĂĄyar)
A marginalised area far from the sights; avoid it.
Hotels I recommend in Granada
Chapter Six
What deserves to come home with you from Granada: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
Custard apple
Chirimoya de la Costa Tropical de Granada-MĂĄlaga DOPA tropical fruit with a creamy flesh and the taste of pineapple and banana, grown in Almuñécar and the Granada coast; its season is OctoberâMay.
Granada honey
Miel de Granada DOPProtected honey varieties: rosemary âromeroâ, orange blossom âazaharâ, thyme, chestnut, lavender, and mountain honey from the Sierra Nevada and the Alpujarra.
Granada olive oils
Aceite Montes de Granada y Poniente de Granada DOPOils from âPicualâ, âLucioâ and âHojiblancaâ, strong and grassy; and âPoniente de Granadaâ from the west of the province.
Santa Fe piononos
Piononos de Santa FeA small rolled sponge cake soaked in syrup and topped with burnt cream, created in 1897 at Casa Isla in Santa Fe near Granada.
Green asparagus
EspĂĄrrago verde de HuĂ©tor-TĂĄjar IGPA wild-origin, slender asparagus with a gentle bitter flavour; its season is MarchâMay.
Spices and Moroccan tea
Especias y tĂ©In the lanes of La AlcaicerĂa (âAlcaicerĂaâ) and the AlbaicĂn, shops sell spices, tea and Arab sweets, an echo of Granada's Andalusi past.
Chapter Seven
To get around Granada: small buses serving the historic districts â the C30 to the Alhambra, and the C31 and C32 to the AlbaicĂn and Sacromonte â leave from Plaza de Isabel la CatĂłlica, as well as the light metro (one line) and regular buses. The rechargeable âCredibĂșsâ card lowers the fare, and you can pay by bank card directly on the bus. From the airport (Federico GarcĂa Lorca): a bus to the centre takes about 40â45 minutes and is timed with flights, or a taxi costs about 30â35 euros. Taxis are available; Uber and Cabify are limited. Tips: the historic centre is a restricted zone monitored by cameras, so do not drive into it unless your hotel registers your plate; Alhambra tickets sell out weeks in advance, so book them only through the official website; and the road up to the Alhambra is steep, so it is best to go up by bus and walk down.
Last reviewed1 October 2026
CĂłrdoba, Granada y Sevilla
The heart of Andalusian civilisation in a single trip: the Mezquita-Catedral de CĂłrdoba and Madinat al-Zahra, the capital of the Caliphate; the Alhambra palace, the Generalife and the AlbaicĂn in Granada; and the AlcĂĄzar and the Giralda, the minaret of the Almohad mosque, in Sevilla. The cities are connected by high-speed train.
March to May, and October and November (summer is very hot) · 6â8 days (two days per city)
Sierra Nevada
The ski resort closest to the sun in southern Europe, 45 minutes from Granada: ski in the morning and visit the Alhambra in the evening, and on a clear day you can see the Mediterranean and as far as the Rif mountains of Morocco.
December to April · 2â4 days (with Granada)
