“Málaga”, the southern port of al-Andalus, was a base of the Hammudids in the Taifa era, then the second city of the Kingdom of Granada; its Alcazaba and Gibralfaro castle remain witnesses to that. It fell in 1487 CE after a fierce siege.
A Jewish Andalusi philosopher and poet born in Málaga; his book “The Fountain of Life” influenced European thought, and there is a statue of him near the Roman theatre.
Around 1197–1248
Ibn al-Baytar
The greatest scholar of plants and medicines in Islam; born in Málaga, author of “The Comprehensive Book on Simple Medicines and Foods”, and died in Damascus.
1746–1786
Bernardo de Gálvez
A military commander born in Macharaviaya near Málaga, who helped the independence of the United States; there is a statue of him in Málaga.
1881–1973
Pablo Picasso
Born in Málaga; his birthplace on the Plaza de la Merced is a museum, and the “Picasso Museum Málaga” is in the Palacio de Buenavista.
Chapter Two
Ready-made trips
3 hour-by-hour day plans and 2 walking routes I drew myself in Málaga, with the places to pray and eat where I marked them.
122 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
Heritage and monuments
15
01
Alcazaba de Málaga
A fortress-palace built by the Hammudids and then by Badis the Zirid in the 11th century, and completed by the Nasrids, with double walls, bent gates, courtyards with fountains and pools; it is one of the most complete surviving Andalusi alcazabas.
My tip
Buy the combined ticket with Gibralfaro; entry is free on Sunday after 2 pm, and the visit takes about an hour.
In the Palacio de Buenavista, Picasso's birthplace, it displays more than 200 works covering his whole career, and in its cellar are remains of Phoenician, Roman and Andalusi walls.
My tip
Book online; entry is free the last two hours on Sunday, and the visit takes an hour and a half.
A Nasrid alcazaba from the 14th century guarding the Antequera plain; its main tower is one of the largest Nasrid towers. It was among the most important frontier strongholds of the Kingdom of Granada until it fell in 1410 CE after a long siege. The entrance is through the “Arco de los Gigantes”, and it is adjoined by the Iglesia de Santa María.
Moderate effort
A train or bus to Antequera, then a 10–15 minute climb from the centre up steep streets to the Alcazaba. Inside, there are stairs along the walls. Cafés and restaurants nearby.
My tip
Allow an hour and a half; a combined ticket covers the alcazaba and the church. Combine it with the Dólmenes de Antequera (UNESCO) and the El Torcal park.
One of only 3 sea caves of its kind in the world. An Andalusi legend is woven around it: that 5 Almoravid kings hid their treasure there in the 12th century — which is where its name, “the Treasure Cave”, comes from — and treasure hunters searched for it for centuries in vain.
Easy to reach
On a hill above Rincón de la Victoria; a car park nearby. Narrow passages and stairs. Buses from Málaga.
My tip
The visit is 30–45 minutes and the ground is wet and slippery. It is 15 minutes from Málaga, and can be combined with the Cueva de Nerja in one day.
Three giant stone tombs (Menga, Viera and El Romeral), the oldest dating to around 3800 BCE, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2016. The entrance of the Menga dolmen faces the mountain La Peña de los Enamorados, in a unique alignment between human building and the terrain.
Easy to reach · needs a car
Free car park at the centre, and short paved paths rising slightly to the dolmens; suitable for families and older people. Closed on Mondays, and open on Sundays until 14:30.
My tip
Start at the reception centre to watch the introductory film, then walk into Menga and Viera; El Romeral is 4 km away by car. Entry is free. Combine it with the Antequera alcazaba and El Torcal in one day.
A castle on the summit of Gibralfaro (the beacon), built by the Nasrid sultan Yusuf I in the 14th century to protect the Alcazaba, and linked to it by a walled passage; it held out in the 1487 siege before Málaga fell.
My tip
Climbing on foot is hard in summer; take bus 35 or a taxi, then walk down to the alcazaba. The view over the port and the bullring is spectacular.
Nerja's most famous and best-equipped beach, with a promenade of restaurants, clear water and the Sierra de Almijara mountains behind it; a lovely promenade links it to the Balcón de Europa. The water is warm in summer (22–24°) and the seabed drops off quickly.
Easy to reach
In Nerja: about a 20-minute walk from the Balcón de Europa along a promenade and downward steps (and back uphill), or by car to a paid car park alongside. Restaurants, toilets and lifeguards. The sand is coarse, pebbly; suitable for older people if you come by car.
My tip
Chairs and umbrellas for hire, rowing and kayaks to the Maro cliffs; the sand is coarse pebbles, so bring water shoes. Watch the children, as the depth comes close to shore.
A wooden walkway suspended on the walls of the “Desfiladero de los Gaitanes” gorge above the Guadalhorce river, which was once considered the most dangerous trail in the world. Today it is safe and well organised.
Easy to reach · needs a car
A one-way route from the north (Ardales) to the south (El Chorro). Park in El Chorro and take the shuttle bus to the start, or park in the north and return by bus.
Distance
7 km · 100 m climb · 3–4 hours
My tip
Online booking is mandatory and sells out early. Minimum age 8, helmets are mandatory, and closed Mondays.
A unique water trail: most of it is walking up the river bed with the water up to the ankles, until the narrow “Los Cahorros” gorge and the waterfalls. Very refreshing in summer.
Moderate effort · needs a car
Start from the Río Chíllar car park (C/ Ingenio, Nerja, paid) or nearby free car parks. Out and back; you can stop after the first 4–5 km.
Distance
16 km · 350 m climb · 6 hours (round trip)
My tip
Closed shoes that can get wet (no sandals) and a walking stick. Check whether the gorge is open before you go, as the Junta is studying an entry system.
A white village on a rocky hilltop in the East (Axarquía), nicknamed the “Balcón de la Axarquía”, and it is said that the Comares Tower in the Alhambra bears its name. Its lanes are decorated with ceramic footprints guiding visitors to the ruins of its Nasrid fortress.
What to see
the Balcón de la Axarquía · the trail of ceramic footprints · the ruins of the Nasrid fortress · the modern entrance arches · views to the sea
Moderate effort · needs a car
The road is winding, and the village is very steep with many steps; unsuitable for pushchairs. Car parks at its entrance.
My tip
Follow the ceramic footprints on the ground from the square up to the fortress and the cemetery overlook, and finish with a coffee in the square. An hour by car from Málaga via a mountain road.
A cave rich in Palaeolithic rock art, some of whose marks are attributed to Neanderthals more than 60,000 years ago. Visits are in small groups with a guide, following the prehistory centre in the town.
Moderate effort · needs a car
Deep, damp steps, sometimes without a handrail; not suitable for very young children or people with knee problems. Non-slip shoes.
My tip
Book in advance (numbers are limited), and tours are usually in Spanish; no photography inside the cave. Combine it with Bobastro and the Caminito del Rey.
A white coastal town east of Málaga (Narija in Andalusi sources, known for the silk of the Axarquía villages), and the Balcón de Europa is a promenade suspended over the cliff above turquoise coves.
What to see
Balcón de Europa overlooking the sea · the Cueva de Nerja with its huge chambers · Playa de Burriana and Calahonda beaches · the Eagle Bridge (Puente del Águila; the stone channel) · walking the Río Chíllar through the water · nearby Frigiliana
How to get there
Alsa bus from Málaga bus station (≈1 h 10 min) — by car ≈50 min
Easy to reach
Frequent ALSA buses from Málaga (about an hour and a quarter), or a car with underground parking near the balcony. Level ground, suitable for pushchairs; access to the beaches is by stairs. Full facilities. Very crowded in summer.
My tip
50 minutes from Málaga; combine it with the Cueva de Nerja and the village of Frigiliana in one day.
A white village on the slopes of the Sierra de Almijara, which preserves the most beautiful Morisco quarter in Andalusia with its stepped lanes; on its walls, tile panels tell the story of the Battle of the Rock of Frigiliana (1569), the last episode of the Morisco revolt.
What to see
the Morisco quarter with its stepped lanes · ceramic panels telling the story of the 1569 Morisco revolt · ruins of the Lizar castle on the summit · the old sugar factory (Palacio de los Condes) · the Festival of the Three Cultures in August · Sierra Almijara trails
How to get there
Alsa bus from Málaga to Nerja, then local bus (≈15 min) — by car ≈1 h
Moderate effort
A local bus from Nerja (15 min) or a car with parking at the entrance to the town. The old quarter has steep lanes and many steps, unsuitable for pushchairs and tiring for older people. Cafés and restaurants. Hot at midday in summer.
My tip
10 minutes from Nerja; go early in the morning before the tour buses, and in August there is the “Three Cultures” festival.
A city suspended over the deep Tajo gorge, once the base of the Takurunna district and then a Taifa kingdom of the Banu Ifran, and home of the poet Abu al-Baqa al-Rundi, author of “Everything, once complete, begins to decline”. The Puente Nuevo is one of Spain's most famous views.
What to see
the New Bridge over the Tajo gorge · the Arab Baths, among the most complete surviving in Spain · the House of the Moorish King (Casa del Rey Moro) and the water staircase known as the Mine (La Mina) · the Puerta de Almocábar (Cemetery Gate) and walls · the Alameda promenade and balconies · the mihrab of the mosque in Santa María la Mayor
How to get there
Bus from Málaga bus station (≈1 h 45 min) — by car ≈1 h 30 min
Easy to reach
A train or bus from Málaga and Sevilla; the station is a 10–15 minute walk from the Puente Nuevo. The ground is level in the centre; going down to the bottom of the gorge for the bridge view takes 20–30 min, with a hard climb back. Full facilities.
My tip
An hour and a quarter from Málaga or Marbella; a full day, and you can stay the night to see it lit up.
A white village perched above the Fuengirola coast, with flowering lanes and wide views over the Mediterranean. It was an Andalusian fortress that withstood the Castilian siege in 1487, and its walls still surround the viewpoint gardens.
What to see
the “El Compás” viewpoint and the walls of the Andalusian fortress · the shrine of the “Virgen de la Peña” carved into the rock · the “San Sebastián” street, its most famous flowered lane · the Miniatures Museum (Carromato de Max) · the “La Muralla” gardens
My tip
About 25 minutes from Málaga or Marbella; multi-storey car parks at the entrance. The lanes are steep but short (2 hours). We advise avoiding “donkey taxis” because of many complaints about mistreatment of the animals.
Archidona was the capital of the Rayya district in early Islam, and Abd al-Rahman I was proclaimed emir there in 138 AH/756 CE. Its octagonal square (Plaza Ochavada, 1786 CE) is one of the most beautiful Andalusian Baroque squares.
What to see
the Plaza Ochavada · the Virgen de Gracia shrine (the old mosque) · castle walls · the town hall square · the view over the Antequera plain
Easy to reach · needs a car
The square is level in the centre of town, but the way up to the shrine is a mountain road by car. Parking on the nearby streets.
My tip
After the square, climb to the shrine of “Virgen de Gracia” (an old mosque mentioned in this guide) and the castle walls on top of the hill. An ideal stop on the Granada–Málaga road.
A wooden walkway suspended on the walls of the Gaitanejo gorge, up to 100 m above the river. It was once considered “the most dangerous path in the world” before its restoration, and is now safe and spectacular.
My tip
Tickets sell out fast, so book weeks ahead. The distance is about 7.7 km one way with a mandatory helmet, and it is an hour from Málaga.
A zoo of the “immersive” type that recreates the forests of Madagascar, Borneo and tropical Africa without visible cages, one of the best zoos in Europe.
My tip
30 minutes from Málaga by commuter train; a perfect half day for children. Buy the ticket with a meal online.
A kayak tour along a protected coast with no buildings, between small coves, sea caves and crystal-clear water as far as the Maro waterfall, which falls from the cliff into the sea, with a stop to swim at a beach reachable only by boat. About 3 hours with a guide, suitable for families and children aged 6 and up.
Moderate effort
A bus or car to Playa de Burriana in Nerja (paid parking and a downhill walk). Paddling for 2–3 hours at moderate effort with a guide; cancelled in wind or waves. Strong sun with no shade. Restaurants on the beach.
My tip
Morning tours are calmer on the sea, and the guide takes photos for free. Wear a hat and sunscreen; the waterfall may dry up at the end of summer.
A limestone rock labyrinth with strange shapes like stacked plates, carved by nature over millions of years, and a UNESCO site. Two marked trails (45 minutes or 2 hours) and the Las Ventanillas lookout, with mountain goats among the rocks.
Moderate effort · needs a car
By car to the visitor centre (uphill road; the upper car park closes when full, and a bus runs). The 1.5 km circular green route takes 45 minutes over uneven rock; unsuitable for pushchairs. Café and toilets at the centre. Fog and wind.
My tip
Bring a jacket, as the summit is cold and windy, and sports shoes are essential. It combines with a visit to the Dólmenes de Antequera.
The Shanil (Genil) river, which rises in the Sierra Nevada and flows through Granada, is the river often mentioned in Andalusi sources; its stretch near Cuevas Bajas offers an enjoyable rafting trip between olive groves, easy for beginners.
Moderate effort · needs a car
Departure from the company base near Cuevas Bajas; rafting/kayaking with a guide on calm to moderate water. Swimming is required and advance booking is needed. Strong sun; facilities in the village. A car is necessary.
My tip
The trip suits families in spring and summer, and it can be combined with a visit to Antequera and its dolmens.
Centro Cultural Andalusí de Málaga (Mezquita de Málaga)
Málaga's main mosque, built with Saudi support in a beautiful Andalusi style, west of the city centre.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually around 13:30 to 14:30 (it may be delayed to 15:00 in summer); check with the mosque before going. The gates open at about 13:00 on Friday; parking is difficult, so take a taxi. Abayas are provided for those whose clothing is short.
A large mosque with a tall minaret, the main mosque of the coast of Fuengirola and Benalmádena.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually around 13:30 to 14:30 (it may be delayed to 15:00 in summer); check with the mosque before going. The sermon is around 14:30 in summer; women have a marked entrance on the façade. It gets crowded, so arrive early for parking.
A five-star luxury hotel in a historic palace from the 1920s on Málaga's seafront, facing Playa de la Malagueta, with its gardens, pool and sea-facing terrace.
An elegant hotel right next to Málaga Cathedral, with a rooftop and pool overlooking the cathedral, the Alcazaba and the port, a few steps from Calle Marqués de Larios and the Picasso Museum.
My tip
Go up to the rooftop for a view of the alcazaba and Gibralfaro.
The Málaga branch (4.6) is the best starting point for the white-village routes, Ronda, Granada and the Costa del Sol coast, and is widely used for winter trips thanks to the south's mild climate.
My tip
Near Málaga airport; in summer ask for a van with air conditioning in the rear cabin, or plan to sleep in the highlands (Ronda, Sierra Nevada).
Serviced apartments from the Room Mate group in the historic heart of Málaga, elegant and fully equipped. Among the highest-rated apartments in the city.
My tip
Its location is in the middle of the busy centre; ask for an inside apartment for quiet. Check the tourist licence number (VUT/ESFCTU) in the listing, and do not transfer money outside the platform; beware of fake Idealista and Facebook offers.
An apartment and co-living building in Puerto de la Torre on the outskirts of Málaga, with mountain views, a pool, a terrace and workspaces. Rated 4.7, and residents who stay for months praise it.
My tip
Far from the historic centre, so you need a car. It has a shared-living style, so ask for a separate apartment for the family.
The most elegant shopping street in Málaga, a marble pedestrian street with 19th-century façades, lined with international shops and cafés and decorated with its famous Christmas lights.
My tip
Combine it with the side lanes leading to the cathedral and the Atarazanas market; best in the evening.
Málaga's central market in a 19th-century iron building, which keeps the Nasrid shipyard gate with its horseshoe arch and the inscription “Wa la ghalib illa Allah”, and sells the finest fish, nuts and olives.
My tip
Go in the morning (closes 14:00 and on Sunday); try the fresh seafood at its stalls.
A seafront promenade open to the port, gathering restaurants, shops and cafés between the city centre and Playa de la Malagueta, with views of the yachts and the castle.
My tip
Ideal at sunset; keep walking to the La Farola lighthouse and the city beach.
An open-air outlet village next to the airport, with more than 100 international brands at permanent discounts, adjoining the large “Plaza Mayor” shopping centre.
My tip
Good before your flight; C1 commuter train to Plaza Mayor station, parking is free, and closed on Sunday.
The main outlet on the Costa del Sol, beside the Plaza Mayor centre, with international and mid-range brands and a large food court. Very close to Málaga airport and suitable for those staying in Marbella.
My tip
Reachable by Cercanías train (Plaza Mayor station), a two-minute walk; closed Sunday. Combine it with your last day before flying.
In the heart of the Montes de Málaga natural park, around the Torrijos olive press (1843), now an environmental museum of traditional oil and bread making; tables on terraces among the pines and about 6 barbecues, 35 minutes from Málaga.
Easy to reach · needs a car
The winding A-7000 road, 30 minutes from Málaga; parking, tables and toilets. Barbecues are banned in summer. No public transport.
My tip
Barbecues open only in certain months; the car park fills up around 11:00 on weekends and holidays. In Andalusia, barbecues in forests are banned from 1 June to 15 October (the danger season in the INFOCA plan), and this may be extended. More generally, barbecues are banned in many provinces from around 15 May to 15 October, so check the wildfire rules for the province before you go.
A quiet recreation area in the Málaga mountains near the Hotel Humina, with tables, barbecues, toilets and running water (not drinkable), in a pine forest replanted in the 20th century to protect Málaga from the floods of the Guadalmedina valley.
My tip
It is 5 km off the mountain road, along a paved road with poor signage, so rely on maps; bring drinking water. In Andalusia, barbecues in forests are banned from 1 June to 15 October (the danger season in the INFOCA plan), and this may be extended. More generally, barbecues are banned in many provinces from around 15 May to 15 October, so check the wildfire rules for the province before you go.
An elegant Andalusi bath in Málaga's historic centre, designed in the spirit of Nasrid art, with pools at several temperatures and the traditional “kisa” ritual. One of the most highly rated branches of the chain.
My tip
Phones are not allowed in the hammam area; book in advance. The place is not for children, and sessions are mixed, with swimwear worn.
A historic hotel palace on Málaga's seafront, with a spa containing an Arab bath, thermal pools and an indoor pool in an atmosphere inspired by Andalusi heritage. A luxury option close to the city centre and the beach.
My tip
Book the hammam circuit in advance as capacity is limited; swimwear is required, and the sea-view suites are the best choice for families.
A family-run churros and chocolate spot since 1932, on the lane “Herrería del Rey” near the Atarazanas market, with tables spilling into the passage. People of Málaga gather there on Sunday mornings, in a tradition passed down for decades.
My tip
Order Málaga’s thin churros with thick chocolate, or a “nube” coffee the Málaga way. Go early (8–10) and avoid cruise-ship arrival days.
A small barbecue area with four grills and scattered tables among the trees, beside the La Concepción botanical garden in the Ciudad Jardín district. The start of walking trails in the Málaga mountains.
Easy to reach
Within Málaga: a bus to Ciudad Jardín, then a short walk, or by car. No toilets.
Barbecue
Allowed under conditions: in Andalusia, barbecues are banned in forest and recreation areas from 1 June to 15 October; outside that period they are allowed in fixed barbecue grills.
My tip
No toilets; combine it with a visit to the botanical garden. Watch out for litter left around it.
A large private hospital in Málaga serving the Costa del Sol, covering the main specialties, surgery and emergency care. A practical option for anyone staying in Málaga or near the airport.
My tip
Ask for the international patient service at Quirónsalud to arrange appointments and translation, and make sure you get the results in writing before leaving. Reports are translated, and payment is private or by insurance.
A long-established school accredited by the Instituto Cervantes in Málaga, with boarding, a kitchen and Spanish courses that include cooking and dancing, suitable for groups and students.
My tip
Boarding is comfortable for younger students; the best study periods are spring and autumn, to avoid the summer heat.
A small school accredited by the Instituto Cervantes in Plaza de la Merced, near Picasso’s house in central Málaga, with excellent reviews, small groups and an afternoon cultural programme.
My tip
It offers nearby flats for students; the location is ideal for walking around the old town after lessons.
A private Spanish school accredited by the Instituto Cervantes (not part of the Instituto itself), near the Pedregalejo beaches east of Málaga, with practical lessons and daily activities.
My tip
A good option for families spending the summer on the Costa del Sol; the neighbourhood is quiet, residential and near the sea.
Among my best months An event or holidayBars: lowest and highest temperature
April12° to 22°
Mild (12–22°C) with Easter crowds. We recommend the suspended Caminito del Rey walkway (for children aged 8 and over).
No events listed in April. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Five
Where to stay in Málaga
From my own stays
Gran Hotel Miramar
I chose it for my guests★★★★★
A five-star luxury hotel in a historic palace from the 1920s on Málaga's seafront, facing Playa de la Malagueta, with its gardens, pool and sea-facing terrace.
1
Historic centre (Calle Larios)
Centro histórico (Calle Larios)
Everything is within walking distance: the Alcazaba, Gibralfaro castle, the Museo Picasso Málaga, the cathedral and the shops. Its streets are pedestrian and safe.
You'll find here
Boutique and luxury hotels with rooftop views, and holiday apartments.
2
La Malagueta
La Malagueta
Between the centre and the beach: a clean city beach suitable for children, close to the port (Muelle Uno) for a stroll.
You'll find here
4–5 star beach hotels and apartments with sea views.
3
El Limonar / Pedregalejo
El Limonar / Pedregalejo
East of the city, quiet upscale residential neighbourhoods on the sea, with fish restaurants and a long promenade; ideal for families and long stays.
You'll find here
Villas, luxury apartments and small hotels.
Where I wouldn't stay
Palma-PalmillaPalma-Palmilla
A neglected neighbourhood north of the city, far from the sights; do not stay there despite the tempting prices.
Nightlife streets behind Calle LariosCalles de ocio del centro
Some lanes in the centre are loud with bars until dawn in summer; check the apartment’s location before booking.
Hotels I recommend in Málaga
Palacio Solecio
Chapter Six
What to bring home
What deserves to come home with you from Málaga: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
Mangoes and avocados from the Axarquía
Mango y aguacate de la Axarquía
The Axarquía, east of Málaga, is Europe's largest area for growing mangoes and avocados. The mango ripens on the tree from August–November, so it tastes sweeter than imported fruit.
DOP
Málaga raisins
Pasas de Málaga DOP
Moscatel grapes are dried in the sun on “paseros” terraces in the Axarquía, an Andalusi tradition that the FAO has recognised as a globally important agricultural heritage. Large, aromatic raisins.
DOP
Antequera oil
Aceite Antequera DOP
“Hojiblanca” oil: balanced, with artichoke and almond flavours and a light warmth.
IGP
Antequera mollete bread
Mollete de Antequera IGP
Soft flat bread, eaten for breakfast toasted with olive oil and grated tomato.
Custard apple
Chirimoya
Also found on Málaga's east coast; creamy and sweet, in season in autumn and winter.
Ajoblanco
Ajoblanco
A cold Andalusi soup of Arab origin, made from almonds, bread, garlic and olive oil, served with Moscatel grapes.
Chapter Seven
Getting around Málaga
Málaga — Málaga Costa del Sol Airport (AGP)
From the airport to the city
Taxis: they run on the meter. The minimum fare from the airport is 18.24 euros on weekdays by day, and 22.48 or 25.80 euros at night and on holidays. 0.58 euros is added per bag.
Cercanías C1 commuter train: from the airport station to María Zambrano, then Málaga Centro-Alameda in about 12 minutes. In the other direction it goes to Torremolinos, Benalmádena and Fuengirola. Tickets cost 1.80 to 2.70 euros depending on the zone.
The A Express airport bus reaches the city centre (Alameda and Paseo del Parque) for 4 euros.
To Marbella: the train does not go there, so take an Avanza bus from the airport, a taxi, or a pre-booked transfer.
Getting around
A single EMT bus ticket costs 1.40 euros, and the historic centre is small enough to cross on foot.
There are two short metro lines, but buses and walking are enough for visitors.
Consulate and emergencies
The Saudi Arabian Consulate General in Málaga: C/ Mauricio Moro Pareto 2, phone +34 952 324 497. Check the opening hours before you go.
Emergency: 112.
In summer, keep out of the sun between 2 and 5 in the afternoon and drink water constantly.