Úbeda y Baeza
Spain's largest nature reserve, the source of the Guadalquivir river, with pine forests, deer, ibex and castles on the peaks, near the Andalusian towns of Úbeda and Baeza.
- When to go
- April to June, and September to November
- How long you need
- 3–4 days
- For whom
- Families and lovers of wild nature
Chapter One
The story of Úbeda y Baeza
“Úbeda” and “Baeza” are two Andalusian towns in the province of Jaén, taken by the Castilians in the 13th century, then adorned with Renaissance architecture, which earned them a place on the World Heritage list. Jaén is the base of the widest olive groves in the world.
Figures of Úbeda y Baeza
- 1203–1274
Ibn Malik
Imam of Arabic grammar, born in Jaén, who composed the “Alfiyya” on grammar, and died in Damascus.
- around 1477–1547
Francisco de los Cobos
Secretary to Emperor Charles V, born in Úbeda, who built the “Sacra Capilla del Salvador” there as his burial place.
- 1505–1575
Andrés de Vandelvira
Renaissance architect who designed the most important buildings of Úbeda and Baeza and the cathedral of Jaén.
- 1875–1939
Antonio Machado
He taught French in Baeza (1912–1919), and his classroom at the institute is preserved.
Chapter Two
Places in Úbeda y Baeza
33 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
Heritage and monuments
16Úbeda – Plaza Vázquez de Molina
· Úbeda
Úbeda (Ubbadat al-Arab) was a flourishing city in al-Andalus until 1233 CE, and today it is an open-air museum of Renaissance architecture around the Plaza Vázquez de Molina, with its gold-stone palaces, and the potters' quarter that keeps Andalusian pottery alive.
- Easy to reach
- Buses from Jaén and Granada to Úbeda and Baeza (no train to either town). Parking near the centre, and relatively level stone streets. Full services. Very hot in summer, and the sights close at midday.
My tip
Spend a night at the “Parador” of Úbeda on the square, and visit the potters' workshops on Calle Valencia.
Centro histórico de Baeza
· Baeza
Baeza was the capital of a Taifa and an important Almohad stronghold on the road to Jaén, and today it preserves a harmonious historic centre from the 15th and 16th centuries around the Plaza de los Leones.
My tip
10 minutes from Úbeda. Allow a 2–3 hour tour, and avoid midday, when the sights close.
Castillo de Burgalimar
· Baños de la Encina
One of the oldest European castles still standing with its full walls: fourteen towers around a wide courtyard. It was built in 357 AH / 968 CE on the order of Caliph al-Hakam al-Mustansir bi-llah, as the Arabic foundation inscription preserved today in the Museo Arqueológico Nacional in Madrid states. It guards the road from Córdoba to Toledo across the Sierra Morena mountains.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car (10 minutes from the A-4). Parking in the town, then a short climb. Inside the fortress, stairs along the walls. Cafés in the town. Visits follow the municipality's opening times, so check in advance.
My tip
Visits run at regular times organised by the council (closed in the afternoons on some days). Combine it with a stop at Bailén on the Madrid–Andalusia motorway.
Baños Árabes de Jaén (Palacio de Villardompardo)
· Jaén
The largest surviving Arab baths in Spain (about 450 m²), from the 11th century, discovered buried under the Palacio de Villardompardo in 1913. The cold, warm and hot halls follow one another under their domes with star-shaped skylights, and traces of Almohad decoration survive.
- Easy to reach
- In the old town of Jaén. Parking in the centre, then a short walk through steep streets. The underground baths are reached by stairs. Cafés nearby.
My tip
Entry is free; in the same building there is a folk arts museum and a naive art exhibition. Allow at least an hour.
Museo de la Batalla de las Navas de Tolosa
· Santa Elena
On 15 Safar 609 AH (16 July 1212 CE), the Almohad caliph Muhammad al-Nasir met the armies of Castile, Aragon and Navarre led by Alfonso VIII at the pass of “al-‘Uqab” in the Sierra Morena mountains, and the Almohads were routed in a crushing defeat that Enan called “the ill-starred battle of al-‘Uqab”. After it the Almohad power in al-Andalus collapsed, and Córdoba and Sevilla fell within decades.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- In Santa Elena near the A-4 road; parking in front of the museum. The visit is indoors and easy. The actual battlefield around the village has no services. Few buses.
My tip
The museum is at the edge of the battlefield in Santa Elena, and has a lookout tower overlooking the plain and the pass. An audio guide is available in several languages; allow an hour and a half. In nearby La Carolina there is a large monument to the battle.
Castillo de Segura de la Sierra
· Segura de la Sierra
The Castillo de Segura de la Sierra on a hilltop in the heart of the Cazorla and Segura park, with an Arab bath in the village beneath it; one of the most beautiful hanging Andalusian villages.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- By car only on a long winding mountain road; parking near the village, then a 10-minute climb to the fortress. Phone coverage on the roads is weak. Limited services.
My tip
The road is winding and mountainous; the last climb is on foot. Also visit the Arab bath in the village.
Baños Árabes de Jaén (Palacio de Villardompardo)
· Jaén
The largest surviving Arab baths in Spain (about 450 m²), from the 11th century, in the cellar of the Palacio de Villardompardo, with a folk arts museum. Entry is free.
- Easy to reach
- In the old town of Jaén. Park in the centre car park, then a short walk through steep streets. Enter by stairs down to the underground baths. Services in the city.
My tip
An hour from Úbeda. Check the times before you go, as they change.
Castillo de La Iruela
· La Iruela
An Islamic castle perched on a rocky peak above Cazorla, with an unforgettable view over a sea of olive trees; its tower stands right on the edge of the cliff.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- By car from Cazorla (5 minutes) to parking near the fortress, then a path and steep stairs to the tower on the cliff edge. Keep an eye on the children. Services in Cazorla.
My tip
The ticket costs 1–2 euros; the tower's stairs are steep. You can walk back to Cazorla along a mountain path (about 30 minutes).
Castillo de Santa Catalina
· Jaén
The citadel of Jaén on the Santa Catalina hill, whose first Islamic fortress was built in the 8th century CE and renovated by Ibn al-Ahmar; it has a huge view over the city and the sea of olive trees.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car up a mountain road from Jaén to the parking at the Parador; a short walk to the Cross over uneven ground. No public transport. Parador café.
My tip
Drive up and avoid the hot hours; the Cross at the western end is the most beautiful viewpoint.
Castillo de Hornos (Cosmolarium)
· Hornos de Segura
An Islamic castle from the 13th century CE on a rock edge above the blue Tranco lake; today it has been turned into a planetarium and stargazing centre, a unique blend of history and astronomy.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car only on winding mountain roads; the fortress is inside the village with parking nearby. Suitable for children. Limited services; coverage patchy.
My tip
Very suitable for families and children; book the planetarium shows and night observation in advance.
Catedral de Jaén
· Jaén
- Originally a mosque (confirmed)
Jaén's Great Mosque was turned into a church after the city was handed to Ferdinand III in 1246 CE, and then the cathedral was built on its site. Nothing of the mosque is visible now.
My tip
The ticket includes an audio guide and a virtual reality headset.
Basílica de Santa María de los Reales Alcázares (Úbeda)
· Úbeda
- Originally a mosque (confirmed)
Built on the Great Mosque of Úbeda after the city fell in 1233 CE. The Gothic monastery is believed to stand where the mosque's courtyard was.
My tip
The ticket is cheap and includes the tower; pay in cash.
Catedral de Baeza
· Baeza
- Originally a mosque (confirmed)
Built on the site of Baeza's Great Mosque after its fall in 1227 CE, and rebuilt in Renaissance style in the 16th century. None of the mosque remains visible.
My tip
The ticket includes the tower (about 170 steps) and the monastery.
Castillo de la Yedra (Cazorla)
· Cazorla
A castle of Almohad origin, rebuilt by the Castilians above the town of Cazorla at the gate of the Cazorla and Segura mountains, housing a museum of the popular traditions of the upper Guadalquivir valley. From its tower you can see the ruins of the church of Santa María above the Cerezuelo river and the view of the white town.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- A very steep short climb, then a narrow staircase inside the tower; not suitable for pushchairs or for those who are afraid of confined spaces. Parking at the foot of the town.
My tip
Walk up from the Plaza de Santa María (10 minutes). Visits are in groups and by appointment. Do it before going deeper into the natural park and the Nacimiento del Guadalquivir. Tuesday–Saturday until the evening.
Conjunto Arqueológico de Cástulo
· Linares
A great Iberian and then Roman city on the upper Guadalquivir. From it came Himilce, wife of Hannibal, and in it the wonderful “Love” mosaic was discovered in 2012. Only a small part has been excavated.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- Fairly long, exposed dirt tracks; a hat and water are essential in summer.
My tip
Entry is free; follow up with the exhibits in the Linares Archaeological Museum. Combine it with Úbeda and Baeza (40 minutes).
Castillo de Alcaudete
· Alcaudete
The Castillo de Alcaudete is an Andalusi border fortress between Jaén and Granada, which after 1340 CE became the seat of the knights of the Order of Calatrava. Today it is a restored castle with exhibits on the border wars and a wide view over the sea of olives.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- A wide car park at the foot of the castle, and a moderate internal staircase; suitable for families.
My tip
A cheap ticket and a pleasant tour for children (helmets and swords for photos); in the evening the castle is lit up. On the road between Granada and Córdoba.
Restaurants and cafés
3Bagá
A Michelin star for chef Pedro Sánchez, at an eight-seat restaurant in central Jaén; closed Mondays.
- One of the most praised new restaurants in Spain, with a short, bold tasting menu celebrating the produce of Jaén; book months ahead.
TryTasting menu, with pork and alcohol excluded in advance, virgin olive oil dishes, seafood
Booking essential · Suits couples and business meetings
Cantina La Estación
A restaurant styled as an old railway carriage in Úbeda, listed in the Michelin Guide and known for its olive oil tastings; closed on Wednesdays.
- In the world capital of olive oil, it serves contemporary Andalusian cooking with a tasting session of local oils, inside the decor of a warm railway carriage; a tasting menu at a reasonable price.
TryVirgin olive oil tasting, roast lamb, tasting menu, local desserts
Booking essential · Suits couples, families and children and business meetings
Virentia
An elegant restaurant in Úbeda known for its tuna and oxtail dishes; open every day.
- One of the highest-rated restaurants in Úbeda, with a beautiful dining room, attentive service and a wide menu; a suitable choice for dinner after wandering among Renaissance palaces.
TryTuna tartare, tuna stew, oxtail, potato starters
Booking advised · Suits families and children, couples and friends and groups
Nature and walks
4Hotel Spa Rural Coto del Valle de Cazorla
· Cazorla
A rural hotel with spa and pool inside the Sierra de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas reserve, the largest natural reserve in Spain, where the source of the Guadalquivir river is.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car only inside the Cazorla reserve (about 45 minutes from Cazorla by a mountain road). Limited services at nearby Arroyo Frío, full services in Cazorla. Coverage is weak.
My tip
A family trip to the Nacimiento del Guadalquivir and the Borosa river trail; deer and ibex are often seen at sunset.
Parque Natural de las Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas
· Cazorla
The largest natural reserve in Spain (over 200,000 hectares), with the source of the Guadalquivir, pine forests and hanging villages such as Segura and Hornos with their castles, and home to red deer, ibex and the bearded vulture.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- By car only; long winding mountain roads. Trails range from easy to hard. Weak coverage in the valleys.
My tip
Set aside at least two days: the town of Cazorla, the Borosa river, and Segura castle; and a boat trip on the Tranco dam.
Río Borosa – Cerrada de Elías (Cazorla)
· Coto Ríos (Santiago-Pontones)
The most famous trail in the Sierra de Cazorla: a path along the bank of a crystal-clear river, then wooden walkways suspended in the Cerrada de Elías gorge, then waterfalls and tunnels. Water everywhere.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Parking at the fish farm (Piscifactoría) near Coto Ríos. There and back along the river itself.
- Distance
- 11 km · 200 m climb · 3:30–4 hours
My tip
Most families turn back after the power station (about 11 km there and back); the full trail to the lakes is very long.
Sabiote – Castillo
· Sabiote
A walled town near Úbeda that has kept its walls and gates, crowned by a castle-palace whose design was reworked by Andrés de Vandelvira in the 16th century. Its quiet stone alleys are an extension of the world of Úbeda and Baeza without their crowds.
What to see
The castle-palace · the walls and their gates · the Arrabal quarter · the stone alleys · views over the olive groves
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- Stone alleys of moderate slope; parking at the walls.
My tip
Visits are with a guide in Spanish (a token fee). Make it a half-day with Úbeda (10 km). Visiting times are morning and evening at weekends.
Experiences and family
5Oleoturismo Jaén - San Francisco Oleícola
· Begíjar
A long-established family olive press in the heart of the “Sea of Olives” in Jaén, the largest olive-oil producing area in the world. The tour combines the old press with its stones and the modern production lines, then goes down into the groves with a view of the millions of trees, many of whose roots were planted by the people of al-Andalus. It ends with a professional tasting of the virgin oils.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- In Begíjar, in a rural setting; park at the press. The tour is easy inside the press and among the nearby trees. Book in advance. Hot in summer with no shade. No practical public transport.
- Season
- November – January (for the pressing season), and visits are available all year round.
My tip
Book in advance through their website. In the harvest season (November–January) you can see the press at work. Bring your car, as the tour moves on to the grove. The place is closed on Thursdays and Fridays.
Río Borosa – Cerrada de Elías (Cazorla)
· Cazorla / Coto Ríos
The water-paradise trail in the Cazorla park: a crystal-clear river the colour of emerald, wooden walkways suspended on the walls of the Cerrada de Elías gorge above the pools, and waterfalls and tunnels carved into the mountain for those who continue. The first part (up to the walkways, about a 10 km loop) is easy and suitable for families.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- By car along long mountain roads. From the car park, 3 km almost flat on a dirt track to the wooden walkways of Cerrada de Elías (2 hours there and back); continuing to the lakes is 22 km and strenuous. No water or services, and weak coverage. Check that the walkways are open.
My tip
There is a paid official car park at the start of the trail, so arrive early. Before you go, check that the wooden walkways are open (they were partly closed for maintenance in 2026), and avoid midday in July–August.
Terra Oleum
· Mengíbar
A modern interactive museum set up by the International Olive Foundation in Jaén, which explains the journey of the olive tree from planting to the table and the history of oil in the civilisations of the Mediterranean. It has a shop that displays the best Spanish brands in one place.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- A modern building in Mengíbar near the A-44, with parking; an easy indoor visit. Book in advance. No practical public transport.
- Season
- All year round.
My tip
It opens only in the morning, Monday to Friday (10–14); very suitable for children before visiting a real press.
Centro de Interpretación Olivar y Aceite
· Úbeda
In a historic building in the Andalusian city of Úbeda, it gives a simple explanation of olive cultivation, oil varieties and how oil is assessed, with a guided tasting session that helps you tell good oil from bad. A short, rich visit in the heart of a World Heritage city.
- Season
- All year round, best in the harvest season.
My tip
Guided tasting for a nominal charge, and groups need to book. Closed on Monday, Thursday and Sunday evenings.
Cascada de la Cimbarra
· Aldeaquemada
A waterfall where the Guarrizas river pours out of a quartzite gorge in the Sierra Morena mountains on the border of al-Andalus and Castile, near the route taken by the armies of Las Navas de Tolosa (al-‘Uqab) in 609 AH / 1212 CE. It is a superb natural site after the rains.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- From Aldeaquemada, a road then a dirt track to the car park; a 5 km loop (2 hours, 190 m of ascent). The viewpoint is easy for families, but the rest has edges with no protection. No shade or services.
My tip
A 2 km dirt track, then a 10–30 minute walk; the car park is small and fills up on holidays. A loop trail passes the smaller waterfall of La Cimbarrilla.
Where to stay
3Parador de Úbeda (Palacio del Deán Ortega)
· Úbeda
- One of the city's best hotels
- Romantic
The first palace turned into a parador, in the Plaza Vázquez de Molina, the heart of Úbeda, which is on the World Heritage list.
My tip
Book a suite with a private courtyard if possible.
Hotel Puerta de la Luna
· Baeza
- One of the city's best hotels
A historic building in the heart of the Centro histórico de Baeza, with a courtyard, a small pool and a view of the cathedral.
My tip
Ask for a room overlooking the courtyard; free parking nearby.
Parador de Jaén
· Jaén
Built in castle style beside the Arab fortress of Santa Catalina on a hilltop above the city of Jaén, with huge domed halls and views over the sea of olives. The rooms are spacious and comfortable, most of them with a balcony.
My tip
Visit the tower of the castle next door on foot before sunset. The restaurant serves Jaén dishes with local olive oil. The road is uphill, so you need a car.
Relaxation
2Área recreativa de Linarejos (Cazorla)
· Cazorla
A spacious recreation area in the Cazorla natural park beside the Linarejos stream, with many tables, shade, barbecue grills and a lawn for games, and fine mountain trails leading from it.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- About 10 minutes by car from the town of Cazorla; a wide car park next to the tables. Good shade.
- Barbecue
- With conditions: barbecues only on the designated grills, and outside the fire-risk season in Andalusia (banned from about 1 June to 15 October).
My tip
The natural pool on the stream is often dry or shallow in summer, and the kiosk is closed; bring everything you need. Take your rubbish home with you.
Nacimiento del Guadalquivir
· Quesada
The symbolic source of the Guadalquivir in the heart of the Cazorla mountains, among tall pines: a quiet place for a stroll on a journey through the natural park.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car on dirt tracks from Cazorla (about an hour). The car park is very close; good shade.
- Barbecue
- With conditions: barbecues only on the designated grills, and outside the fire-risk season in Andalusia (banned from about 1 June to 15 October).
My tip
The road is long on dirt tracks; the source itself is modest except after rain. Combine it with a trip in the park. Take your rubbish home with you.
Chapter Three
When to go to Úbeda y Baeza
My view in brief: April to June, and September to November. Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holiday
January
No events listed in January. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Four
Where to stay in Úbeda y Baeza
Hotels I recommend in Úbeda y Baeza
- Parador de Úbeda (Palacio del Deán Ortega) ★★★★
- Hotel Puerta de la Luna ★★★★
Chapter Five
What to bring home
What deserves to come home with you from Úbeda y Baeza: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
- IGP
Jaén oil
Aceite de Jaén IGPJaén is the largest producer of olive oil in the world. Its protected oil from the “Picual” variety is strong, bitter and peppery, with a flavour of tomato leaves and grass, rich in antioxidants and very stable.
- DOP
Sierra de Cazorla oil
Aceite Sierra de Cazorla DOPA mountain oil from “Picual” and the rare “Royal”; the latter is smooth and sweet, with a red-fruit flavour.
- DOP
Sierra Mágina and Sierra de Segura oils
Sierra Mágina y Sierra de Segura DOPProtected oils from the heights of Jaén; “Picual” is aromatic and balanced, with a flavour of green apple and almond.
Ochío de Úbeda y Baeza
A small round bread sprinkled with paprika and salt, made with olive oil, a tradition of Úbeda and Baeza.
Pipirrana jiennense
A salad of tomato, pepper and crushed garlic with “Picual” oil, the simplest way to taste the local oil.
Chapter Six
Getting around Úbeda y Baeza
Last reviewed1 October 2026