Almería
A volcanic desert reserve on the coast of Almería, with unspoilt coves with no development (Mónsul, Los Genoveses), white fishing villages such as San José and Agua Amarga, and clear water for diving.
- When to go
- May to October
- How long you need
- 2–4 days
- For whom
- Couples and lovers of unspoilt beaches
Chapter One
The story of Almería
“Almería” was the largest port of the Umayyad caliphate. Abderramán III made it a city in 955 CE and built its alcazaba. It later became the capital of the Banu Sumadih kingdom, and it was famous for silk and tiraz weaving. Its alcazaba is one of the largest Islamic fortresses in al-Andalus.
Figures of Almería
- 891–961
Abderramán III
The first caliph of Córdoba, he raised Almería to the rank of city in 955 CE and ordered its alcazaba built.
- d. 1091
al-Mu'tasim ibn Sumadih
The poet king of Almería, who made his court a meeting place for men of letters.
- 1838–1908
Nicolás Salmerón
The first President of the Spanish Republic, born in Alhama de Almería.
- 1867–1932
Carmen de Burgos
A pioneering journalist and writer born in Almería, and one of the first female war correspondents in Spain.
Chapter Two
Places in Almería
39 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
Heritage and monuments
9Alcazaba de Almería
The largest alcazaba built by Muslims in al-Andalus. Abderramán III ordered it built in 955 CE, when Almería was the caliphate's first port, and it flourished under Khayran al-Amiri and al-Mu'tasim ibn Sumadih, the taifa king.
My tip
Free for EU citizens and a symbolic fee for others. Go at 9–10 am; closed Mondays.
Castillo de Tabernas
· Tabernas
A Nasrid fortress on a hill in the Tabernas desert, which guarded the road between Almería and Guadix. The Catholic Monarchs stayed there during their 1489 CE campaign against Almería. What remains are walls, cisterns and partly restored towers.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- By car. From the town's sports ground, it is a 15–20 minute climb on a sloping paved road. No shade, water or services, and intense heat in summer. Cafés in the town.
My tip
Walk up from the town's sports ground on a paved road. No shade or services, so go in the morning and carry water.
Laujar de Andarax (Alpujarra almeriense)
· Laujar de Andarax
- Morisco heritage
“Andarax” was the seat of the fief granted to Boabdil (Muhammad XII) after the surrender of Granada in 1492, before he left for Fez in 1493. It was also where the leader of the Morisco revolt, “Aben Humeya”, was killed by his own supporters in 1569. A quiet town that sums up the start of the Morisco presence and the end of their revolt.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car (a few buses from Almería). The town centre is relatively flat, and the springs of the Andarax river have a car park nearby and easy trails. Restaurants in the town.
My tip
Add it to an Alpujarras trip from the Almería side (about an hour from Almería); the nearby springs of the Andarax river are lovely for a stroll.
Cuevas de Sorbas
· Sorbas
One of the few gypsum karst systems in the world, with more than 1,000 cavities and sparkling gypsum crystals. It is visited with helmet and headlamp in a real exploration adventure, not a conventional tour.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- The visitor centre has a car park near Sorbas, reached by a rural road. Visits take 1.5–3 hours with helmet and headlamp, with stooping, crawling and slippery ground; age limits apply. Booking is essential. Outside the caves, it is desert heat with no shade.
My tip
The “basic route” takes 2 hours and suits children. Wear long trousers, as you will sometimes crawl. Tours in English are available.
Castillo de Vélez-Blanco
· Vélez-Blanco
A majestic Renaissance castle (1506–1515 CE) built on the Islamic fortress of Vélez. Its foundations keep traces of the Andalusian fort, and it overlooks a white town in the far north of Almería.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car only, to Vélez-Blanco; a road climbs to near the castle. Entry is limited because of restoration, so call ahead. Services in the village.
My tip
The castle is under restoration and access is limited, so call before you go. The view from outside alone is worth it.
Iglesia de San Juan Evangelista (Almería)
- Originally a mosque (confirmed)
It was built on the great mosque of Almería, founded by Abderramán III in the 4th century AH and later enlarged. The qibla wall keeps the Almohad mihrab (6th century AH) with its plaster decoration, the most important surviving relic.
My tip
There are no fixed visiting hours. Come shortly before Mass to see the mihrab.
Ermita de Nuestro Padre Jesús Nazareno (Fiñana)
· Fiñana
- Originally a mosque (confirmed)
A small mosque from the Nasrid period (7th–8th century AH), converted into a hermitage dedicated to Santiago in 1489 CE. It keeps the qibla wall and parts of the mihrab decoration.
My tip
Ask for the key at the town hall or tourist office. It is on Calle del Águila.
Yacimiento Arqueológico de Los Millares
· Santa Fe de Mondújar
Europe's most important Copper Age settlement (around 3200 BCE), with 4 walls, dozens of circular tombs and a reconstruction of its houses. It stands on a dry plateau above the Andarax valley, near Almería.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- A long, exposed dirt track; a hat and water are essential. Dogs are not allowed.
My tip
Entry is free. Come in the morning, as it closes at 14:00, and there is no shade or services. 25 minutes from Almería.
Castillo del Marqués de los Vélez (Cuevas del Almanzora)
· Cuevas del Almanzora
A Renaissance castle (1507 CE) in the town of Cuevas del Almanzora, with an archaeological museum on the El Argar culture and an art museum. Around it is the quarter of cave houses carved into the hills.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- The castle is in the square on level ground; reaching the walls is by stairs. Parking in the square.
My tip
Combine it with Mojácar and the Vera beaches. Closed Sundays and Mondays. A symbolic fee.
Restaurants and cafés
4La Costa
A Michelin star: fish and prawns from the Almería coast and vegetables from the plastic greenhouses, in El Ejido. Closed Sundays.
- A family restaurant that became Almería's most famous food address, showcasing red prawns from Garrucha and the vegetables of the famous “plastic sea” of El Ejido. 30 minutes from the city.
Signature dishRed prawns from Garrucha
Booking essential · Suits couples and business meetings
Marhaba Almería
An elegantly decorated Moroccan restaurant in Almería, known for couscous and bastilla. Closed Mondays.
- One of Almería's top-rated Arab restaurants, with an ornate Moroccan dining hall and friendly service. A comfortable choice for Arab families after a day in the city.
TryLamb couscous with vegetables, bastilla, “tafaya” couscous with caramelised onion, lemon juice
Booking advised · Suits families and children, couples and friends and groups
Almedina
A Moroccan café and restaurant at the foot of the alcazaba in the old quarter. Closed Mondays.
- It sits in the old town that was the heart of Andalusi “Almería”, under the alcazaba walls, and serves homemade Moroccan dishes and mint tea. The best stop after visiting the alcazaba.
TryTagine, harira, eastern appetisers, mint tea and Moroccan sweets
Suits families and children and friends and groups
Restaurante Barrio Alto
A family fish restaurant where the customer chooses their fresh fish from the display. Lunch only, and closed Mondays.
- A local address away from tourists, near the airport, where fresh fish and seafood are displayed for you to choose from, cooked the way you like. Customers praise the freshness of the fish and the generous hospitality.
TryFresh fish grilled on salt, red prawns, grilled squid, fried fish Almería-style
Booking advised · Suits families and children, couples and friends and groups
Nature and walks
8Parque Natural Cabo de Gata-Níjar
· Níjar
The most beautiful wild coast in the Spanish Mediterranean, with volcanic coves, unspoilt beaches, clear waters and whitewashed fishing villages.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- A car is essential. The dirt road to Mónsul/Los Genoveses is closed to cars in summer, and a shuttle bus runs from San José. No shade, water or toilets at most beaches, and fierce heat. Phone coverage is weak in some coves.
My tip
Rent a car; Playa de Mónsul, San José and Agua Amarga are the best known. Bring water and shade, as most beaches have no services.
Playa de Mónsul
· San José (Níjar)
A volcanic cove in the Cabo de Gata–Níjar natural park, with a famous lava rock at its centre and a sand dune, where scenes from “Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade” were filmed. Its water is clear and excellent for diving, and it is warm in summer (23–25°).
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- A 5 km dirt road from San José. In summer, the road closes once the paid car park (about €5–6) fills, and a bus runs from San José. It is a few minutes' walk on sand from the car park. No shade, water or toilets, and fierce heat; phone coverage is weak.
My tip
In summer, the number of cars is limited by an entry fee (about €5–6), or by a bus from San José. No services or shade, so bring water and an umbrella. The seabed slopes gradually, which suits small children.
Mojácar Pueblo – Plaza Nueva
· Mojácar
A white village perched on a hill above the sea, one of the most beautiful in Spain, with Andalusian-style planned alleys. Its surrender in 1488 is remembered at the “Mojácar Fountain”, where its Muslim governor gave the Catholic Monarchs his famous reply. Its new square is a terrace over the coast and the valley.
What to see
Plaza Nueva and its lookout over the plain and sea · the town gate from the old wall · the “Moorish Fountain” (Fuente Mora), where the story of the town's surrender is told · the white flowering alleys · Mojácar beach
- Easy to reach
- A local bus from the beaches, or by car to car parks at the edges of the village. The alleys are steep with many steps, and going down to the fountain and back up is tiring. Hard going with strollers. Restaurants and toilets.
My tip
Go up before sunset, then wander the lit alleys. Go down to the old Arab fountain. The beaches are 3 km away.
Cala del Plomo
· Agua Amarga (Níjar)
An isolated cove in Cabo de Gata between volcanic mountains, reached by a 7 km dirt road, with almost no buildings. It has some of the purest waters in the Mediterranean and is among the richest in fish. Warm in summer (24°).
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- A 7 km dirt road from the main road (suitable for an ordinary car, driven carefully) leads to a small car park a few minutes from the pebbles. It is isolated: no services, shade or water, and coverage is weak. Alternatively, it is an hour's walk from Agua Amarga on a mountain path. Avoid summer afternoons.
My tip
No services at all. Bring shade, water and water shoes for the pebbles. Come early, as the car park is small. You can walk there from Agua Amarga (1 hour).
Los Escullos – Cala del Embarcadero (Cabo de Gata)
· Los Escullos (Níjar)
A coastal path between fossilised dunes and volcanic rocks in the Cabo de Gata–Níjar park, passing Castillo de San Felipe and coves with clear water. Beautiful and desert-like.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- A car park at Castillo de San Felipe (Los Escullos). Out and back towards La Isleta del Moro or San José.
- Distance
- 6 km · 100 m climb · 2 hours
My tip
No shade at all. Walk early in the morning or just before sunset, and take snorkelling gear.
Níjar – pueblo
· Níjar
A white town on the slope of the Alhamilla range, overlooking the Cabo de Gata plain. It has been famous since the Andalusi period for green and blue glazed pottery and hand-woven “jarapa” rugs. Its shaded alleys and squares preserve the layout of the Andalusi village.
What to see
Plaza de la Glorieta and the Mudéjar church · the market square and the old water fountain · the potters' street and the jarapa workshops · La Atalaya tower · the Water and Pottery Museum
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Park at the foot of the town (the squares fill up), then moderately steep uphill alleys; possible with pushchairs, but only with difficulty. 35 minutes by car from Almería.
My tip
Buy pottery and jarapa from the workshops on Calle de las Alfarerías, directly from the craftspeople, then climb the watchtower “La Atalaya” for the view over the plain. Do it in the morning, before the Cabo de Gata beaches.
Faro de Cabo de Gata – Arrecife de las Sirenas
· San José (Níjar)
The south-eastern tip of Andalusia: a volcanic cape topped by a lighthouse (1863), with the volcanic rocks of the “Arrecife de las Sirenas” in clear water in front of it. It is the heart of the Cabo de Gata–Níjar reserve, the driest and most beautiful coast in Europe.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- A paved road from the village of Cabo de Gata past the salt pans (flamingo watching), with a small car park at the viewpoint. The walk is short and level. The wind is strong at times.
My tip
Come at sunset, and bring diving goggles for the pebble beach below the lighthouse. Then continue to Los Genoveses beach and Mónsul (some of which are in the guide). There are no facilities near the lighthouse, so take water.
Cortijo El Sotillo
· San José (Níjar)
An Andalusian farmstead at the entrance to San José, with spacious rooms, private terraces and a pool. Old Western films were shot there.
My tip
Close to the Cabo de Gata beaches by car. Check cleanliness by reading the most recent reviews.
Day trips
1Rodalquilar – Jardín Botánico El Albardinal
· Rodalquilar
A deserted gold-mining village in the heart of Cabo de Gata, turned into an environmental centre with a botanical garden of desert plants. The ruins of metal works on the slope of the volcanic caldera are a unique sight.
What to see
The El Albardinal botanical garden · the ruins of the gold works · the Los Alumbres tower · El Playazo beach · the view of the volcanic caldera
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- The village is flat and the garden has easy paths; the mine ruins are a moderate climb over rough ground.
My tip
The botanical garden is free (closed Sundays and Mondays). Then the mine ruins and the “Los Alumbres” tower, finishing at “El Playazo” beach. Combine it with La Isleta del Moro.
Experiences and family
5Kayak Cabo de Gata (San José)
· San José
Paddling along Spain's most beautiful volcanic coast: black and red rocks, virgin beaches that cars cannot reach, sea caves, and snorkelling among the fish. A 2–3 hour guided tour, ideal for families, from age 5.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- Car to San José. Paddling for 2–3 hours with a guide, moderate effort, and cancelled in wind. Intense heat with no shade on the sea. Services in the town.
My tip
Book by WhatsApp a few days ahead in summer. Early morning is best for calm wind. Snorkelling gear is available, and photos are free.
Desertbuggy Almería
· Pechina
The Tabernas desert in Almería is Europe's only true desert, and famous Westerns were filmed there. You drive buggies through its dry valleys and eroded clay hills, in a scene that recalls the valleys of the Arabian Peninsula.
My tip
Avoid summer afternoons; morning or pre-sunset trips are the nicest, and the driver needs a driving licence.
Oasys MiniHollywood
· Tabernas
The American West town where “Western” films were shot in the Tabernas desert — the only desert in Europe — with live shows, a zoo and a swimming pool.
My tip
30 minutes from Almería; closed Tuesdays, and a full day for families.
Buceo en Cabo de Gata
· La Isleta del Moro
The volcanic Cabo de Gata–Níjar coast in Almería is one of the purest on the Mediterranean, with cliffs, lava rocks, sea caves and Posidonia meadows. The village of “La Isleta del Moro” carries in its name the memory of the Andalusi past.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- La Isleta del Moro is a small village along the Cabo de Gata roads; park near the harbour. Diving is by booking, with age limits. No shade and fierce heat in summer, and few services. A car is essential.
My tip
Suitable for beginners and family snorkelling. Spring and autumn are calmer than August.
Desert Springs Family Resort
· Cuevas del Almanzora (Palomares)
A family and sports resort in Almería with two-bedroom apartments that have kitchens and private gardens, plus pools and golf courses. Spacious, quiet, with a sunny climate all year round.
My tip
Suits long stays thanks to its equipped apartments. It is far from the towns, so rent a car.
Mosques and halal
1Mezquita Assalam (Almería)
The community mosque in Almería.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually at about 13:30–14:30 (it may run later, to 15:00, in summer); check with the mosque beforehand. Confirm the Friday time in advance.
Where to stay
7Hotel Catedral Almería
- One of the city's best hotels
A 19th-century building in front of Almería cathedral, with a rooftop and a pool; the closest hotel to the alcazaba.
My tip
Room standards vary; ask for a renovated room with a view.
Parador de Mojácar
· Mojácar
- One of the city's best hotels
On Mojácar beach, near the white village with its Andalusian character.
My tip
Check in advance for maintenance work and whether the pool is available.
AREA CABO DE GATA CAMPER PARK
· Níjar
A friendly service area on the road to San José, inside the Cabo de Gata–Níjar natural reserve: the most beautiful unspoilt volcanic coast in Andalusia, with its coves (Mónsul, Los Genoveses).
My tip
Wild camping is banned inside the reserve and strictly enforced. In summer, the roads to the Mónsul beaches are closed to cars, and the shuttle bus is used.
Cabogata Beach Hotel
· Retamar
A five-star beachfront resort in Andalusian architectural style, about 20 km east of Almería, at the gate of the Cabo de Gata reserve. Several pools, a spa and rooms with views.
My tip
The resort is large and the distances inside it are long. Ask when booking about pork-free alternatives at breakfast.
Hotel Envía Almería Spa & Golf
· Vícar
A five-star resort among the golf courses and hills west of Almería, with a large spa and wide views. It is quiet, and good value with half board.
My tip
The rooms are old-style despite the rating; suitable for quiet, not for exploring the city.
Murallas de Jayrán Hotel Boutique
- Boutique
A boutique hotel with only 6 rooms next to the Andalusi walls of Khayran, with a terrace and a small pool on the roof. A short walk from the alcazaba and the centre.
My tip
High privacy, given the few rooms. Parking is on the street, about 1 km away.
Hotel MC San José
· San José (Níjar)
- Boutique
A quiet boutique hotel with a small pool in the village of San José, inside the Cabo de Gata reserve, about 40 km from Almería. It also rents out equipped villas.
My tip
Villas suit families. There is no dinner at the hotel outside the season, but restaurants are nearby.
Shopping
1Mercado Central de Almería
An iron market from 1897 in the heart of Almería, selling produce from the “Garden of Europe” and Mediterranean fish, with a supermarket and a fish market on the lower floor.
My tip
Some small bars serve excellent dishes but open only after 1:30 pm. Parking is easy.
Services
3Oasys MiniHollywood
· Tabernas
The American West town built for Sergio Leone's famous films (“For a Few Dollars More” and “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly”), now a park with cowboy shows, a can-can, a zoo and a pool. The most complete and organised of the Tabernas desert sites.
My tip
Set aside a full day and avoid the hot summer afternoons. The shows are in Spanish but visual, so children can follow them. Closed on Tuesdays in some seasons. The show saloon serves alcoholic drinks, so choose the upper seats.
Fort Bravo / Texas Hollywood
· Tabernas
A real film set still used for films, series and adverts, with a Western town, a Mexican village and a fort. More authentic and less crowded than its rival, with a free wagon ride.
My tip
Afternoon cowboy shows are fun for children. Closed Sundays. A 4WD or a driver is preferable, as the road is dirt. You can take photos in Western costume.
Western Leone
· Tabernas
The site where the farm from “Once Upon a Time in the West” was filmed by Sergio Leone; the famous red house still stands in front of the same mountains. A destination for lovers of film history more than a park.
My tip
A short visit (30-60 minutes) for fans of classic films only. The buildings are old and dilapidated, and services are limited. Combine it into one day with MiniHollywood.
Chapter Three
When to go to Almería
My view in brief: May to October. Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holiday
January
No events listed in January. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Four
Where to stay in Almería
Hotels I recommend in Almería
- Hotel Catedral Almería ★★★★
- Parador de Mojácar ★★★★
Chapter Five
What to bring home
What deserves to come home with you from Almería: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
- IGP
La Cañada tomato
Tomate La Cañada IGPAlmería, the “Garden of Europe”; and the greenhouse tomatoes of the La Cañada-Níjar plain, including the sweet, ribbed “Raf” tomato, a premium variety, in season in winter and spring.
Ohanes grape
Uva de OhanesA firm, late-ripening white grape from the Almería mountains, once exported in cork-sawdust barrels as far as England and America.
Red prawn
Gamba roja de GarruchaRed prawns from the deep, among Spain's finest, grilled in salt.
Peppers, cucumbers and watermelon
Hortalizas de AlmeríaGreenhouse vegetables from El Ejido and Níjar supply Europe in winter, and watermelons and melons in summer.
Almería oil
Aceite de AlmeríaMills in Tabernas and Níjar produce excellent fresh virgin oils from “Arbequina”, “Picual” and “Hojiblanca”.
Chapter Six