Huelva
15 places in and around Huelva, 5 of them among my favourite picks.
Chapter One
The story of Huelva
Huelva was the seat of a small principality in the Taifa period. From its coast Columbus set sail in 1492 CE from the port of Palos, near the La Rábida monastery, so it came to be known as the “cradle of the discovery of America”.
Figures of Huelva
- 1014–1094
al-Bakri
The great geographer, author of the “Book of Roads and Kingdoms”, son of the ruler of Huelva and Saltés, was born there.
- 1441–1493
Martín Alonso Pinzón
A native of Palos, he commanded La Pinta on Columbus's voyage, and his house in Palos is a museum.
- 1451–1506
Cristóbal Colón
He set sail from Palos in 1492, and at the “Caravel Quay” (Muelle de las Carabelas) near La Rábida there are replicas of his three ships.
- 1881–1958
Juan Ramón Jiménez
Winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1956. Born in Moguer, where his house is a museum, and it is from there that his book “Platero and I” comes.
Chapter Two
Places in Huelva
15 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
Heritage and monuments
7Mezquita de Almonaster la Real
· Almonaster la Real
- Originally a mosque (confirmed)
A small rural mosque from the Caliphate period (10th century), among the most complete surviving mosques in Spain: five aisles with reused Roman and Gothic columns, an original mihrab and a small courtyard, inside a fortress at the top of the town. “Islamic Culture Days” are held there annually in September.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- In practice by car (few buses from Huelva/Sevilla). From the town, a 10–15 minute climb by a paved stone path with a slope; difficult for pushchairs. Cafés and restaurants in the town. Winding mountain road.
My tip
Open for most of the day, with free entry; the climb is by a paved stone path. The town is in the Aracena mountains, about an hour and a half from Sevilla.
Gruta de las Maravillas
· Aracena
The first cave in Spain to be opened to visitors, in 1914. It lies directly beneath Aracena castle and is famous for its clear underground lakes, which reflect the stalactites and stalagmites in striking colours.
- Easy to reach
- In the centre of Aracena, beneath the castle; a car park near the entrance. A guided tour of about 1 hour through passages and stairs, with humidity; not suitable for pushchairs. Book in advance in summer and on holidays. Bus from Sevilla/Huelva.
My tip
The ticket includes the castle and the Iberian ham museum (which can be skipped); tours are in Spanish, with an audio guide accessed by QR.
Murallas de Niebla
· Niebla
One of the most complete Almohad walls in Europe: about two kilometres of red rammed-earth walls with fifty towers and winding gates, surrounding the whole town. Niebla was the seat of a small taifa kingdom in the 11th century.
- Easy to reach
- Buses from Sevilla/Huelva or by car; parking at the walls. Walking is on level ground, with stairs up to the top of the wall. Few cafés. Hot in summer.
My tip
Walking around the walls is free; the Guzmán castle inside is by ticket and closes at midday in winter. About 45 minutes from Sevilla.
Iglesia de Santa María de la Granada (Niebla)
· Niebla
- Originally a mosque (confirmed)
It was the congregational mosque of Niebla, capital of the taifa in the 5th century AH, and was converted into a church after 1262 CE. It still keeps a mihrab, a horseshoe-arched hall at the entrance, and a tower whose base is from the minaret.
My tip
Hours are irregular; call the tourist office in Niebla to arrange a visit with a guide who knows the mihrab.
Castillo de Aracena
· Aracena
A castle on the summit of Aracena hill, overlooking the famous Gruta de las Maravillas. Its walls date from the 13th century, on Andalusian foundations, and beside it is a church with a Mudéjar tower decorated with a “sebka” lattice in the Almohad style. The view from it over the Aracena mountains and oak forests is worth the climb.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- A moderate uphill walk through paved lanes; inside the walls the ground is stony. Not suitable for pushchairs.
My tip
Buy the combined ticket with the Gruta de las Maravillas (in the guide), and climb on foot from the town. An hour and 15 minutes from Sevilla.
Muelle de las Carabelas
· Palos de la Frontera
Full-size replicas of Columbus's three ships (La Niña, La Pinta and Santa María) can be boarded, with a museum and a re-created village of the New World. It is beside La Rábida monastery, where the 1492 voyage was planned.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- The steps on the ships are steep and their floors are unstable; the rest is level. 15 minutes from Huelva.
My tip
Children love climbing aboard the ships; catch the short film screening at its set time. Closed on Mondays; free parking.
Castillo de Cortegana
· Cortegana
A 13th-century castle on Andalusian foundations, guarding the road between the Guadalquivir valley and Portugal in the Sierra de Aracena. Well preserved, and it hosts a medieval festival in August.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Drive up to the castle car park, then climb the steps; moderate. No information in English.
My tip
Combine it with the mosque at Almonaster la Real (in the guide), 10 minutes away. Closed on Mondays.
Restaurants and cafés
2Azabache
A classic restaurant in central Huelva, known for white prawns and local fish; closed on Saturdays and Sundays.
- A go-to for the people of Huelva for decades for tasting the famous “gamba blanca”, the most valuable prawn in Spain, and fresh fish from the Atlantic coast.
TryBoiled white prawns (gamba blanca), fried “chocos” cuttlefish, fresh fish, seafood rice
Booking advised · Suits families and children, couples and friends and groups
Doña Gamba
A seafood restaurant in the fishing village of El Rompido on the Huelva coast; closed on Wednesdays.
- The village of El Rompido, with its sandy spit and the Piedras river, is one of the most beautiful stops on the Huelva coast, and this restaurant is one of its best-known addresses for prawns and seafood rice.
TryWhite prawns, lobster rice, grilled fish, fried cuttlefish
Booking advised · Suits families and children, couples and friends and groups
Nature and walks
5Hotel Luz Almonaster
· Almonaster la Real
A small boutique hotel in Almonaster la Real in the Sierra de Aracena, overlooked by one of the oldest rural mosques surviving in Andalusia (10th century).
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car on a mountain road (an hour and a half from Sevilla). The hotel is near Almonaster, and services in the town are a few minutes away. The mosque is a 10–15 minute climb.
My tip
Climb to the old mosque on the hill (open to visitors); the whole area is wonderful, with chestnut and oak forests in autumn.
Parque Natural Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche
· Aracena
Oak, cork and chestnut forests stretch north of Huelva, interspersed with white villages such as Alájar, Linares de la Sierra and Cortegana. In Aracena there is a castle on the site of an Islamic fort, and the Gruta de las Maravillas. It is one of the greenest rural areas of Andalusia in spring and autumn.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car (few buses from Sevilla); the villages are small, and the viewpoints are beside the roads. Easy to moderate trails.
My tip
Make Aracena your base, and visit the Peña de Arias Montano in Alájar for the view. Autumn is the season for chestnuts and mushrooms.
Finca La Fronda
· Alájar
A rural guesthouse in Andalusian style in the midst of chestnut forests in the Sierra de Aracena, with a pool, gardens and a valley view.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- On a rural road near Alájar; the last stretch is a narrow, steep track, so you need a car. Alájar (restaurants and a small shop) is 5 min away, and Aracena (supermarket and clinic) 15 min. The roads are winding mountain roads.
My tip
Close to Alájar and the Gruta de las Maravillas in Aracena; book the home dinner in advance.
Finca Buenvino
· Los Marines
A rural house run by its owners, in the oak and chestnut forests of the Sierra de Aracena (Huelva), home of the famous Iberian ham. A family hospitality experience with home cooking and clear skies, away from the tourist trails.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car only; the entrance is from the N-433 road, then a short private lane. The nearest services are in Los Marines (a small village) and Aracena, 10 minutes away. No practical public transport.
My tip
Visit the Gruta de las Maravillas in Aracena and the nearby village of Alájar.
Plaza de España de Llerena
· Llerena
A historic town in south Extremadura. Its large square is one of the finest in the region, with white arcades and the town hall, and is overlooked by a church with a two-storey brick arcaded façade. It was the seat of the Inquisition and of the Order of Santiago.
What to see
The great square and its arcades · the brick façade of the church of “La Granada” · remains of the medieval wall · the old Inquisition palace · the house of the painter Zurbarán
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- An hour and 20 minutes from Mérida or Sevilla by car, and by regional train. Flat; about an hour and a half.
My tip
The town is quiet and not touristy, and a good break on the road between Mérida and Sevilla, with the Reina castle nearby (10 minutes).
Relaxation
1El Acebuche (Doñana)
· Almonte
The main visitor centre of Doñana National Park, with a lagoon, wooden walkways and bird hides, where the Iberian lynx may be seen. A picnic area near the centre.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car, about an hour from Sevilla on the A-483 near Matalascañas. The trails are flat; moderate shade.
- Barbecue
- Not allowed: no fires or barbecues at all; picnic with ready food only.
My tip
The lagoon sometimes dries up in winter. Official 4×4 vehicle tours must be booked in advance. No fires at all in Doñana. Take your rubbish with you.
Chapter Three
When to go to Huelva
Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holiday
January
No events listed in January. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Four
What to bring home
What deserves to come home with you from Huelva: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
White prawn
Gamba blanca de HuelvaA sweet-tasting white prawn, considered the finest prawn in Spain; eaten boiled, or grilled with salt.
- IGP
Isla Cristina mojama
Mojama de Isla Cristina IGPDried, salted tuna fillet from the port of Isla Cristina; it is sliced very thin and dressed with olive oil.
Huelva strawberries and berries
Fresas y frutos rojos de HuelvaHuelva is the largest producer of strawberries and blueberries in Europe; the season is January–June.
Fried cuttlefish
Chocos fritosFried “choco” cuttlefish of Huelva, the local dish, to the point that people from Huelva have been nicknamed “choqueros”.
Small clams
Coquinas de HuelvaSmall shellfish from the beaches of Huelva and Doñana, cooked with garlic and olive oil.
Chapter Five