Pamplona
69 places in and around Pamplona, 14 of them among my favourite picks.
Chapter One
The story of Pamplona
âPamplonaâ was the capital of the Kingdom of Navarra. Its ties with al-Andalus combined war and marriage: the paternal grandmother of AbderramĂĄn III was a princess of its royal house. It is world-famous for the San FermĂn festival in July.
Figures of Pamplona
- around 885â958
Toda AznĂĄrez
Queen of Navarra and aunt of AbderramĂĄn III. In 958 CE she came to CĂłrdoba to seek treatment for her grandson Sancho from the physician Hasdai ibn Shaprut.
- 1844â1908
Pablo Sarasate
Violinist and world-famous composer born in Pamplona, and author of âGypsy Airsâ.
- 1844â1890
JuliĂĄn Gayarre
World-famous opera tenor, born in Roncal in Navarra, whose house there is now a museum.
- 1899â1961
Ernest Hemingway
He immortalised the San FermĂn festival in his novel âThe Sun Also Risesâ, and there is a statue of him near the bullring.
Chapter Two
Places in Pamplona
69 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
Heritage and monuments
11Plaza del Castillo
The heart and salon of Pamplona, a wide square surrounded by historic cafés such as Café Iruña, which Hemingway frequented.
My tip
Sit in CafĂ© Iruña. Avoid San FermĂn days (6â14 July) if you want quiet.
Palacio Real de Olite
· Olite
A 15th-century palace of the kings of Navarra, with many towers and balconies, like a palace from a fairytale. It was considered one of the finest palaces in Europe in its day, and had hanging gardens. You can walk all of it and climb its towers.
- Easy to reach
- Train and buses from Pamplona (40 minutes). The palace is in the town centre, with parking nearby. Inside, narrow spiral stairs lead up the towers, not suitable for pushchairs. Full services.
My tip
About two hours. Climb the highest tower for the view. Very suitable for children. 40 minutes from Pamplona; combine it with Bardenas Reales.
Museo de Navarra
The regional museum, in an old 16th-century hospital. It displays exceptional Roman mosaics and Andalusi treasures from Navarra, most notably the ivory Leyre pyxis, made in CĂłrdoba in 395 AH/1004â1005 CE for Abd al-Malik ibn al-Mansur. It also has a painting by Goya and a collection of Andalusi coins.
My tip
Allow an hour and a half to two hours. The building has lifts. Entry is a symbolic fee (â2âŹ), and free on Saturday evening and Sunday. The Leyre ivory pyxis is one of the most important Andalusi pieces outside al-Andalus, so don't miss it.
Murallas de Pamplona â Baluarte del RedĂn
Pamplona's walls are among the most complete modern fortifications in Europe (16thâ18th centuries), and you can walk a large part of them. The best point is the Baluarte del RedĂn, with a wide view over the Arga river and the mountains. Beside it is the French Gate (Portal de Francia), through which pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago enter.
What to see
The Baluarte del RedĂn and its lookout · the French Gate (Portal de Francia) and its drawbridge · the Mirador del Caballo Blanco over the river · the La Media Luna park · the fortifications interpretation centre
My tip
The walk along the walls is mostly level, with some slopes and a few steps (â5 km in full, or 1 hour for the northern section). Start at the Fortifications Interpretation Centre (FortĂn de San BartolomĂ©) to understand the route.
Centro de InterpretaciĂłn de las Fortificaciones de Pamplona
A centre inside the 18th-century San Bartolomé fort, which explains with images, models and films how Pamplona became a fortified city. A perfect starting point for the walk along the walls.
My tip
A symbolic fee (â1âŹ), and free for children and older people. The visit takes 45 min, with explanations in English and clean toilets. Guided tours of the walls start here.
Palacio de Navarra
A neoclassical palace from the 19th century, between Plaza del Castillo and the Paseo de Sarasate, seat of the Navarra government. Its grand throne room and the giant sequoia in its garden are highlights.
My tip
You can see it from outside at any time. The inside is visited on free guided tours, which must be booked in advance on set days. The Paseo de Sarasate in front is flat and lovely.
Restaurants and cafés
16Rodero
The Rodero family's Michelin-starred restaurant near the bullring, serving refined Navarrese cooking with vegetables from the Ebro banks.
- The finest table in Pamplona, with a long family history; suited to special occasions.
TryTasting menu with pork alternatives, Navarra vegetables, piquillo peppers, desserts
Booking essential · Suits couples and business meetings
Asador Olaverri
A modern escanciano asador and an open grill, cooking chuletĂłn and Atlantic fish over charcoal.
- The best grill in Pamplona according to locals; book ahead.
TryChuletĂłn over charcoal, grilled turbot, roasted pepper with tuna belly, scrambled eggs with mushrooms
Booking essential · Suits families and children, friends and groups and business meetings
Santxotena
A family restaurant in Elizondo, capital of the green BaztĂĄn valley, with its stone villages and houses bearing noble coats of arms.
- Rural BaztĂĄn cooking with produce from the valley, and a quiet experience among the mountains; usually open for lunch.
TryVeal from the valley, Navarra trout, wild mushrooms, BaztĂĄn cake (cheese and milk)
Booking advised · Suits families and children and couples
Treintaitrés
Chef Ricardo Gil's restaurant in historic Andalusi Tudela, a temple of vegetables from the Ebro fields (La Ribera).
- Full menus built on seasonal vegetables: artichoke, shoots, asparagus, peppers⊠A unique experience, very suitable for anyone who avoids meat of uncertain origin.
Signature dishVegetable menu (MenĂș de verduras)
Booking essential · Suits couples, business meetings and families and children
Restaurante Europa
A Michelin-starred restaurant run by the Idoate family, next to Plaza del Castillo, with refined Navarrese cooking.
- The finest table in central Pamplona for decades, with a tasting menu showcasing Navarra's vegetables at a relatively reasonable price for a starred restaurant.
TryEggs with potatoes and truffles, Navarra's seasonal vegetables (asparagus and artichokes), piquillo pepper stuffed with fish, cod, milk-fed lamb (ask for a substitute for any dish with pork)
Booking essential · Suits business meetings and couples
Alhambra
A classic, refined restaurant in Pamplona with a name that evokes al-Andalus, serving traditional Navarrese cooking in a contemporary style.
- One of the city's most respected restaurants for business lunches and groups, with good vegetarian options.
TryWhite Navarra asparagus, cod with piquillo peppers, beef, cuajada
Booking advised · Suits business meetings, families and children and friends and groups
Nature and walks
13Ciudadela de Pamplona
A star-shaped 16th-century fort turned into a large park, with green ramparts and moats. Pamplona (Banbaluna in Arabic sources) was an important frontier in the Umayyads' relations with the Banu Qasi and the Kingdom of Navarra.
My tip
Free. Combine it with the nearby Parque de la Taconera.
Selva de Irati
· Orbaizeta
The second-largest beech and fir forest in Europe after Germany's Black Forest, stretching across the Pyrenees between Navarra and France. It reaches its peak of beauty in autumn colours around the Irati reservoir.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- By car only, up to Orbaizeta and the Casas de Irati car park (fee 2â7 âŹ). The loop around the lake takes 2â3 hours. Cold and humid. Weak signal. Only a small cafĂ©.
My tip
Car entry fee (2â7 euros) at Casas de Irati. The loop around the lake takes 2â3 hours.
Valle del BaztĂĄn (Elizondo)
· Elizondo
A green valley in the Navarrese Pyrenees, dotted with stone country houses bearing coats of arms, meadows and rivers. Famous from the âBaztĂĄnâ trilogy of novels, it includes the village of Zugarramurdi and its cave.
What to see
The country houses with coats of arms · the valley villages (Arizkun, Amaiur...) · the Zugarramurdi caves · the SeñorĂo de Bertiz natural park · the BaztĂĄn river and its bridges
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car (few buses from Pamplona). Elizondo is flat, with full services. The villages are spread out.
My tip
Book a rural stay in advance through the valley tourist office. Combine Elizondo, Amaiur and the Urdax-Zugarramurdi cave in one day.
La Vuelta del Castillo
A wide green belt of meadows surrounds âLa Ciudadelaâ, a 16th-century star-shaped citadel. It is Pamplona's green lung, with long paths for walking, running and cycling, and ideal places for a family picnic.
My tip
Completely flat, and suitable for pushchairs and bicycles. Combine it with the castle visit (free, listed in the guide). There are benches and toilets at the castle.
Parque de la Taconera
Pamplona's oldest park (19th century), in a romantic French style, with a small zoo in the old moat where deer, peacocks and ducks live. Beside it are the stone gate of San NicolĂĄs and the walls.
My tip
Flat and suitable for pushchairs, and children love the moat animals. Combine it with the Ciudadela and La Vuelta del Castillo next door (10 min on foot). A café, Vienés, is inside the park.
Parque Natural SeñorĂo de Bertiz
· Oieregi (Bertizarana)
A forest reserve of beech and oak in the Bidasoa valley, an hour north of Pamplona. At its centre are an early 20th-century palace and an artistic botanical garden with trees from every continent, and an enchanting pond. Most beautiful in autumn.
My tip
About 50 min by car. The botanical garden has a symbolic fee (â3âŹ), and its path is flat and easy (1â1.5 hours). The mountain trails range from 1 to 6 hours. Picnic tables, a playground and a cafĂ©. Combine it with the BaztĂĄn valley (in the guide).
Day trips
2Palacio de los Reyes de Navarra (Estella-Lizarra)
· Estella-Lizarra
A town on the Camino de Santiago, nicknamed âToledo of the Northâ for its many monuments. The most prominent is the Palace of the Kings of Navarra (12th century), the finest example of Romanesque civil architecture in Spain, which houses a free art museum.
What to see
The palace of the kings of Navarra and the Gustavo de Maeztu museum · the church of San Pedro de la RĂșa and its portico · the arched La CĂĄrcel bridge · the medieval La RĂșa street · the nearby Irache monastery
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- 45 minutes from Pamplona by car or bus. The town slopes a little; two hours.
My tip
The museum is free. Walk along La RĂșa, then climb up to San Pedro. On Thursdays there is a popular market in the square.
Puente romĂĄnico de Puente la Reina
· Puente la Reina
A town that grew up around an elegant 11th-century Romanesque bridge of six arches over the Arga river, built by a queen of Navarra to help pilgrims cross. It is where the two pilgrim routes from France meet.
What to see
The Romanesque bridge with its six arches · the main street, Calle Mayor · the Iglesia del Crucifijo, with its Y-shaped cross · the town square · the eight-sided church of Eunate nearby
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- 25 minutes from Pamplona by car. Flat and easy; one hour.
My tip
The best photo of the bridge is from the other bank in the morning. Combine it with Estella (20 min) and Ujué.
Experiences and family
7Bardenas Reales
· Arguedas / Tudela
A northern desert like Arizona: hills and clay towers sculpted by the wind, such as âCastildetierraâ. Drive round them on a marked dirt track or on a four-wheel-drive tour. A cinematic landscape that amazes families, one hour from Pamplona.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- By car only, on dirt tracks for tens of kilometres (sometimes closed by rain or for military training). No shade, water, toilets or signal in parts. Intense heat in summer; bring fuel and water before you enter.
My tip
Start at the visitor centre to get a map, and keep to the permitted tracks. Carry water and food (there are no services), and avoid midday in summer. Sunset is best.
Nacedero del Urederra (Urbasa-AndĂa)
· Baquedano
The source of a river flowing from the foot of the Urbasa plateau, through a series of waterfalls and pools of striking turquoise (âUrederraâ means âbeautiful waterâ in Basque), inside a beech forest in the Parque Natural Urbasa-AndĂa.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- Advance booking of parking is mandatory. The trail is 6 km return (2.5 hours) with a moderate climb, steps and slippery rocks. Not suitable for pushchairs. Swimming is forbidden. No services on the trail.
My tip
Advance booking of parking is mandatory (the number of visitors is limited). The trail is 6 km return, about two and a half hours, and swimming is forbidden.
IrriSarri Land · Palacio de Yrisarri
· Igantzi (Navarra)
- I stayed here in With family
A rural resort in northern Navarra that combines a hotel in a 17th-century palace with luxury wooden cabins inside a forest adventure park. It has ropes, suspension bridges, zip lines (tirolinas) and bike trails for different ages. Guests can stroll the park in the evening, after the visitors leave.
My tip
Choose the cabins (Cabañas Basajaun Basoa) for large families, as they have a full kitchen. Outside the season the park closes Tuesday to Friday, so check the calendar.
Sendaviva (Navarra)
· Arguedas
A huge park combining a wide zoo, water games, a mountain coaster, a circus, farms and adventure play for children, in a forest on the edge of the Bardenas desert. A full day is not enough for everything.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car only (near Arguedas, Navarra). Parking next to the entrance. The park is large, with slopes and long paths; possible with a pushchair. Restaurants and toilets. It opens on certain days.
My tip
Mostly open at weekends, and daily in summer; check the calendar before you go. Combine it with a trip to the nearby Bardenas Reales desert.
Agroturismo Mari Cruz
· Villanueva de Arce (Valle de Arce)
A family farm in the Valle de Arce in northern Navarra, where children feed the animals every morning. It has play rooms, a library, a large sandpit and a pedal tractor. It also has treehouses (casas en los ĂĄrboles) and a famous homemade breakfast.
My tip
Very suitable for babies and small children (child seats, baths and small equipment). Close to the Selva de Irati. Early booking is essential, as there are few rooms.
Basoa Suites
· Larraintzar (Ultzama)
A group of wooden suites suspended between trees in the Valle de Ultzama in northern Navarra, about 25 minutes from Pamplona. A forest sleepover that children love, with nature activities and walks in the surrounding beech forests.
My tip
Some suites are for two people only. Ask specifically for a family suite, and check the children's policy and the height of the stairs before booking.
Mosques and halal
2Mezquita Assalam (Pamplona)
A prayer hall in the Milagrosa neighbourhood, south of the city.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually at around 13:30â14:30 (it may be delayed to 15:00 in summer). Check with the mosque beforehand. It opens from noon daily and from 10 a.m. on Fridays.
Mezquita Al-Badr (Pamplona)
A well-organised mosque in the west of the city, with a section for women.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually at around 13:30â14:30 (it may be delayed to 15:00 in summer). Check with the mosque beforehand. The women's section may close outside prayer times.
Where to stay
7Gran Hotel La Perla
- One of the city's best hotels
Pamplona's oldest hotel (1881), right on Plaza del Castillo, with classic high-end service and balconies over Calle Estafeta.
My tip
Book a room with a balcony. Valet parking is available.
Parador de Olite
· Olite
A wing of the 15th-century royal palace of the kings of Navarra, beside the fairytale castle of Olite. The old parts have a Gothic atmosphere, while some rooms in the modern wing are standard.
My tip
Book a âhistoricâ room in the old building if you want the castle atmosphere. The restaurant is the best place to eat in town, and Olite castle is great fun for children.
Parador de Sos del Rey CatĂłlico
· Sos del Rey Católico
A stone building in Aragonese style in the fortified village of Sos, birthplace of Ferdinand the Catholic, with views over the Cinco Villas plains. Quiet and fully air-conditioned.
My tip
Book dinner in advance, because the restaurant is small and opens late (20:30). Avoid wedding days.
Hotel Pompaelo Urban Spa
- Boutique
A four-star boutique hotel on the town hall square, in the heart of the old quarter, with a small urban spa. All the sights are a few minutes' walk away.
My tip
The spa has an extra charge and must be booked in advance. Avoid San FermĂn days if you want quiet.
Hotel Europa Pamplona
- Boutique
A small family-run hotel a few metres from Plaza del Castillo, on a fairly quiet street. It has a Michelin-starred restaurant.
My tip
The rooms are small. There is paid parking nearby.
Hotel Tres Reyes Pamplona
A classic four-star hotel next to the Parque de la Taconera, on the edge of the old quarter, with an outdoor pool. Its rooms are clean and comfortable.
My tip
The pool is a summer feature. Ask when booking about pork-free alternatives at breakfast.
Shopping
2Calle Estafeta
Pamplona's most famous street, the course of the bull run during San FermĂn, full of pintxos bars and gift shops.
My tip
Walk it from the town hall square to the bullring.
Mercado de Santo Domingo
Pamplona's oldest market (1876 CE), in the heart of the old town. It sells Navarra's famous vegetables (asparagus, piquillo peppers and artichokes) and local cheeses such as Roncal and IdiazĂĄbal.
My tip
Mornings only, except Friday. Flat, with a lift. Buy jars of peppers and asparagus as gifts. It is two minutes from the town hall and the start of Calle Estafeta.
Relaxation
7Café Iruña
Opened on 6 July 1888 in Plaza del Castillo, it was the first building in Pamplona lit by electricity. With its mirrors, iron columns and ornate Belle Ăpoque ceiling, its name is tied to Ernest Hemingway, who made it the setting of his novel âThe Sun Also Risesâ (1926).
My tip
Coffee or hot chocolate in the morning in the main hall, and visit the âHemingway cornerâ, with his bronze statue by the side bar. Avoid San FermĂn days (6â14 July) if you want quiet.
Selva de Irati â Embalse de Irabia
· Orbaizeta
The second-largest beech and fir forest in Europe, in the Navarrese Pyrenees, with the Irabia reservoir at its heart and flat paths around it. Its autumn is one of the most beautiful sights in Spain.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car from Orbaizeta or OchagavĂa (about an hour and a half from Pamplona). Flat paths and plenty of shade.
- Barbecue
- Not allowed: no fires or barbecues at all; picnic with ready food only.
My tip
Car entry is charged (about 7 euros), and access may be stopped when the three car parks are full. Toilets at the entrance and picnic areas. Take your rubbish with you.
Parque Natural Urbasa-AndĂa
· Urbasa
A high karst plateau of green pastures and beech forests, where horses and sheep graze, with amazing views over the valleys and the vultures. A wide space for picnics and walks.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car on NA-718, about 45 minutes from Pamplona. Picnic tables beside the road. Shade in the beech forests.
- Barbecue
- Not allowed: no fires or barbecues at all; picnic with ready food only.
My tip
Fog and cold are common, even in summer. Bring a coat. Picnic areas are spread along NA-718. Take your rubbish with you.
Parque Natural SeñorĂo de Bertiz
· Oieregi
A large forest in the BaztĂĄn valley in Navarra, with a historic botanical garden, a small palace on the river, trails for everyone, a playground and picnic tables.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car, about 45 minutes from Pamplona on N-121-A. Picnic tables and playground near the visitor centre. Ample shade.
- Barbecue
- Not allowed: no fires or barbecues at all; picnic with ready food only.
My tip
The botanical garden has a symbolic fee (about 3 euros). The centre is closed on Mondays. Take your rubbish with you.
Ărea de Esteribar (Zubiri)
· Esteribar
A picnic area beside the Camino de Santiago and the Arga river park, north of Pamplona. It has tables and barbecues (in the permitted season), water, toilets and a path for walkers and cyclists.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car, about 20 minutes from Pamplona via N-135. Roadside parking.
- Barbecue
- Allowed at fixed barbecues, outside the summer bans announced by the Government of Navarra.
My tip
The toilets are sometimes closed outside the season.
Balneario de Fitero
· Fitero
A historic spa resort in southern Navarra with two hotels (one of them Gustavo Adolfo BĂ©cquer). Its hot water comes out at about 47 degrees, and it is used for physiotherapy and rheumatism. Quiet, and its programme is more therapeutic than recreational.
My tip
Suitable for older people and therapy programmes. Breakfast and service are average, so book therapy programmes in advance.
Services
2ClĂnica Universidad de Navarra (Pamplona)
The main campus of the Universidad de Navarra teaching hospital since the sixties, and a national reference in oncology, immunotherapy, organ transplants and heart disease. A name known worldwide, which international patients seek out for accurate diagnosis and multidisciplinary teams.
My tip
Arrange the visit through the international patients department, which schedules consecutive appointments within a few days, with nearby accommodation. Pamplona is a small city, so book your hotel early. Send your reports translated in advance. Payment is private, or guaranteed by international insurance.
Universidad de Navarra
A prestigious private university in Pamplona, considered one of Spain's best private universities and known for medicine (the ClĂnica Universidad de Navarra), media, architecture and law. It includes the IESE business school, and has a postgraduate campus in Madrid.
My tip
Fees are high, with merit-based scholarships. It is best to apply early and to ask for a visit to the campus in Pamplona. A quiet green campus and a safe city, suitable for undergraduate students.
Chapter Three
When to go to Pamplona
Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holiday
January
No events listed in January. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Four
Where to stay in Pamplona
Hotels I recommend in Pamplona
- Gran Hotel La Perla â â â â â
Chapter Five
What to bring home
What deserves to come home with you from Pamplona: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
- DOP
Piquillo pepper
Pimiento del Piquillo de Lodosa DOPA small, beak-shaped red pepper, grilled over wood and peeled by hand. Sweet, with a light smokiness. Stuffed with fish, or eaten as it is.
- IGP
Navarra asparagus
EspĂĄrrago de Navarra IGPThick, tender white asparagus. Its season is AprilâJune, and it is excellent canned all year round.
- IGP
Tudela artichoke
Alcachofa de Tudela IGPTender âBlanca de Tudelaâ artichoke from the banks of the Ebro. Season: NovemberâApril.
- DOP
Roncal cheese
Queso Roncal DOPThe first Spanish cheese to win protected designation. It is made from raw sheep's milk in the Roncal valley in the Pyrenees, and is firm and strongly flavoured.
- DOP
Navarra oil
Aceite de Navarra DOPOil from the local âArrĂłnizâ variety with âEmpeltreâ and âArbequinaâ, grassy and lightly bitter.
Cuajada
Traditionally curdled sheep's milk, eaten with honey and walnuts. It is set with animal rennet.
Chapter Six
Getting around Pamplona
- Radio Taxi Pamplona+34 948 232 300
- Teletaxi San FermĂn+34 948 351 335
Apps that work here
Bolt
Last reviewed1 October 2026