Vitoria-Gasteiz
Green hills and traditional farms between Bilbao, San Sebastián and Vitoria-Gasteiz, the Urdaibai coast between valley and sea, the rock of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, and one of the world's finest cuisines, from pintxos to Michelin-starred restaurants.
- When to go
- May to October
- How long you need
- 4–5 days
- For whom
- Couples, food lovers and nature lovers
Chapter One
The story of Vitoria-Gasteiz
It was founded by Sancho VI, King of Navarre, in 1181 CE. Today it is the administrative capital of the Basque Country region. It witnessed the decisive Battle of Vitoria (1813) against Napoleon's armies, and it keeps an oval-shaped medieval old town and the Cathedral of Santa María.
Figures of Vitoria-Gasteiz
- 1132–1194
Sancho VI el Sabio
The King of Navarre who founded Vitoria-Gasteiz and granted it its charter in 1181 CE.
- 1745–1801
Félix María Samaniego
A poet of fables told through animals, born in Laguardia in the province of Álava.
- 1769–1852
Duke of Wellington
The British commander who defeated the French at the Battle of Vitoria in 1813. The monument in the Plaza de la Virgen Blanca commemorates it.
- 1849–1916
Heraclio Fournier
He founded the famous playing card factory in Vitoria-Gasteiz, and the Fournier Playing Card Museum is there.
Chapter Two
Places in Vitoria-Gasteiz
28 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
Heritage and monuments
4Plaza de la Virgen Blanca
The heart of Vitoria-Gasteiz and its gateway between the old and new city, surrounded by houses with white glass balconies, with the monument to the Battle of Vitoria (1813) at its centre.
My tip
The ideal starting point for a tour of the old quarter, with plenty of cafés on the edges.
Muralla y Casco Medieval de Vitoria
A medieval oval quarter on a hill, surrounded by an 11th-century wall built to repel raids, and one of the best-preserved medieval towns in the Basque Country.
My tip
Walk on the wooden walkway beside the wall near the Palacio de Villa Suso; it is free.
Valle Salado de Añana
· Salinas de Añana
Terraced wooden salt pans on a valley slope, where salt has been extracted from salt springs for thousands of years: one of the most beautiful heritage landscapes in Spain. It has been restored and now produces salt sold to top chefs.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- 30 minutes by car from Vitoria-Gasteiz; wooden walkways and steps inside the valley.
My tip
Visits are with a guide (in English at set times), and booking is recommended. Soaking your feet in the salt water delights children, and the shop is good for gifts. Bring a hat in summer.
Santuario de Arantzazu
· Oñati
A mountain shrine hanging above a deep valley, with bold modern architecture from the 1950s and a facade of sculptures by Oteiza and doors by Chillida. Hiking trails around it in the Aizkorri mountains.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- About 50 minutes from Vitoria-Gasteiz and an hour and a quarter from San Sebastián by car; parking beside the shrine.
My tip
Entry is free. The easy “Gomitzegi” trail is set up for pushchairs and wheelchairs. The road to it is narrow and winding, so avoid it in fog or snow.
Restaurants and cafés
10Zaldiaran
A long-established restaurant in Vitoria-Gasteiz, associated for decades with a Michelin star, serving refined Basque cuisine with seasonal menus.
- The reference for fine dining in the Basque administrative capital, with a spacious dining room and formal service.
TrySeasonal tasting menu (including the truffle menu in winter), with alternatives to pork
Booking essential · Suits couples and business meetings
El Portalón
The oldest restaurant in Vitoria-Gasteiz, in a 15th-century inn in the old quarter, with exposed wooden beams and period furniture.
- A place that combines history and traditional Alavese cooking; an unforgettable experience for families and guests.
TryGrilled beef steak to share, spider crab (txangurro), turbot, octopus
Booking advised · Suits families and children, business meetings and friends and groups
Ballarín
Basque market cooking and a good wine list in the old town. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
TrySeasonal Basque dishes, fish
Booking advised · Casual · Suits couples and business meetings
La Trattoria da Luigi
Homestyle Italian trattoria serving pasta and pizza; cash only. Closed Monday; dinner Thursday to Saturday.
TryFresh pasta, pizza, tiramisu
Booking advised · Casual · Suits families and children, couples and friends and groups
Asador Matxete
A grill house on the historic Plaza del Machete in the old quarter, grilling chuletón and fish over embers.
- The most famous grill house in central Vitoria-Gasteiz, with lovely décor and homemade desserts.
TryChuletón, grilled fish, carpaccio, goat's cheese salad, house desserts
Booking advised · Suits families and children and friends and groups
Restaurante árabe marroquí
An informal Moroccan restaurant north of the old quarter, serving couscous, tagines and grills in large portions.
- Very high ratings, moderate prices, open every day from morning; a practical choice for families.
TryCouscous with meat, beef tagine, grilled chicken with rice, Moroccan tea
Suits families and children and friends and groups
Héctor Oribe
Chef Héctor Oribe's restaurant in the village of Páganos, next to Laguardia in Rioja Alavesa, refined seasonal cooking in the countryside.
- We pick it instead of visiting the wineries: a finely crafted seasonal table at a reasonable price, with vegetables, mushrooms and game depending on the season.
TrySeasonal menu, Rioja vegetables, fish of the day, lamb
Booking essential · Suits couples and business meetings
ARREA!
Chef Edorta Lamo's restaurant in the village of Campezo in southern Álava. He cooks “the mountain” using only products from its surroundings.
- A Michelin star and a Michelin Green Star (2026); a tasting journey through the mountains of Álava, and an ideal stop on the road to La Rioja.
TryMountain tasting menu, wild herbs and flowers, game in season
Booking essential · Casual · Suits couples and families and children
Sagartoki
A prize-winning pintxos bar and restaurant on El Prado street.
- Senén González's kitchen, repeatedly crowned “best tortilla in Spain” and “best pintxo”, and Vitoria-Gasteiz's first address for innovative pintxos.
- Among the best tapas
Signature dishThe innovative “fried egg” pintxo and the award-winning tortilla
Booking advised · Suits couples, business meetings and friends and groups
El Toloño
A modern pintxos bar in the heart of the old town.
- Winner of several prizes in the Álava pintxos competition. It skilfully combines classic and creative pintxos, and its tomato pintxo is what visitors talk about most.
- Among the best tapas
TryTomato pintxo on its famous base, anchovy, seasonal mushroom pintxos, and fish pintxos from the kitchen
Suits friends and groups and couples
Nature and walks
3Parque de Salburua
Wetlands, lakes and forests within the “Green Ring” that made Vitoria European Green Capital in 2012, teeming with birds and deer.
My tip
Bring binoculars. It can be reached by tram, and the Ataria visitor centre is at the entrance.
Laguardia
· Laguardia
A walled medieval town on a hill overlooking the vineyards of Rioja Alavesa and the Cantabrian mountains. Its paved lanes are free of cars. The porch of the Church of Santa María stands out, with its original colours preserved (14th century).
What to see
The walls, gates and walk along them · the town square and its clock with dolls · the coloured Gothic doorway of Santa María de los Reyes · the archaeological site of La Hoya · views of the vineyards and the Cantabrian mountains
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- A car is the best option (few buses run from Vitoria-Gasteiz and Logroño). Free parking outside the walls, then a 5-minute walk along lanes that are almost level and car-free. Full services.
My tip
Free parking outside the walls. Book a visit to the coloured porch. One hour from Bilbao, 20 minutes from Logroño.
Areano Landetxea
· Eskoriatza
An isolated traditional Basque farmhouse on a mountainside, with very clean rooms and a homemade breakfast prepared by the host, Mikel.
My tip
For small families seeking complete quiet; you will need a car.
Day trips
1Castillo de Frías
· Frías
Spain's smallest “city” by title. Its houses cling to the edge of a limestone rock crowned by a castle with a tower that almost hangs over the valley. At its foot is a medieval bridge with a gate tower, where tolls were collected on the River Ebro.
What to see
The castle of Frías and its tower overlooking the valley · the hanging houses (Casas Colgadas) · the fortified medieval bridge over the Ebro · the Cascada de Tobera nearby (3 km) · the church of San Vicente on the edge of the rock
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- About an hour and a quarter by car from Burgos or Bilbao; no practical public transport. The town is very steep and paved; allow two hours with the bridge.
My tip
The climb to the castle is short but steep, and the tower stairs are narrow. On Mondays the first half hour is sometimes free. The best photo of the town is from the road coming from the bridge.
Experiences and family
4Cascada de Gujuli (Goiuriko ur-jauzia)
· Goiuri (Urkabustaiz)
A waterfall that drops about 100 metres from the edge of a limestone plateau into the Gujuli valley in the Basque province of Álava, in a basin carved by water over millions of years. It is one of the highest waterfalls in the Basque Country and among the easiest to reach.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Parking on the A-2521 road before Goiuri, then an easy, safe 500 m walk to the viewpoint. The flow is low in summer. No services; cafés in nearby villages.
My tip
Visit in autumn, winter or spring after rain; in summer it almost dries up. The path down is steep and unpaved, and the upper platform is enough for photos.
Hotel Silken Villa de Laguardia
· Laguardia (Rioja Alavesa)
A large four-star hotel at the entrance to the walled town of Laguardia in Rioja Alavesa, with an outdoor pool, spa, gardens and restaurant. A comfortable base for visiting the architectural wineries and medieval villages with children.
My tip
According to recent reviews, room doors do not lock from the inside, so watch young children. The pool towel requires a deposit, and the in-room coffee machine costs extra.
Biltegi Etxea
· Alda (Valle de Arana, Álava)
A country house in the village of Alda in the Arana valley, in the eastern Álava mountains, with a summer pool, open fields, pet dogs and nature trails. The owners are a friendly family, and the atmosphere is quiet, away from the crowds.
My tip
Small and simple, not a large resort. The pool operates only in summer, and the nearest services are in Salvatierra or Estella.
Camping Angosto
· Villanañe (Valdegovía)
A family campsite in the Valdegovía valley in western Álava, with cabins and bungalows, two pools, a basketball court and an excellent restaurant. Children make friends quickly there, and the staff speak English.
My tip
It fills up on long bridge-holiday weekends and at Halloween, so book the bungalow early. About 90 minutes from Bilbao.
Mosques and halal
2Mezquita Almohsinin (Vitoria)
A quiet mosque in the Mariturri district with car parking.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually between about 13:30 and 14:30 (it can run to 15:00 in summer); check with the mosque before going. Suitable for travellers by car.
Mezquita Bilal (Vitoria)
The community mosque in the north of the city.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually between about 13:30 and 14:30 (it can run to 15:00 in summer); check with the mosque beforehand. It opens from Fajr to Isha.
Where to stay
2Parador de Argómaniz
· Argómaniz
- One of the city's best hotels
A Renaissance palace in the Basque countryside, 20 minutes from Vitoria-Gasteiz, quiet, with views of the mountains.
My tip
There are no restaurants within walking distance; have dinner at the parador's restaurant.
Silken Ciudad de Vitoria
- One of the city's best hotels
The best practical choice in the heart of Vitoria-Gasteiz, near the gardens and the old town.
My tip
Ask for an inside room to avoid street noise.
Relaxation
1Parque Provincial de Landa (Ullíbarri-Gamboa)
· Arrazua-Ubarrundia
A park on the shore of the Ullíbarri-Gamboa reservoir near Vitoria-Gasteiz, with a river beach for swimming, woodland, parking, good toilets and picnic tables. A summer refuge for the people of Álava.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- About 20 minutes by car from Vitoria-Gasteiz; tables and the beach are near the parking. Good shade.
- Barbecue
- Not allowed: no fires or barbecues at all; picnic with ready food only.
My tip
Swimming depends on the water level. The car park fills up during the summer holidays. Take your rubbish home with you.
Services
1Clínica Dental Eduardo Anitua
The clinic of Dr Eduardo Anitua, one of the best-known dental implant surgeons in the world and a pioneer of platelet-rich plasma (PRGF) technology, and founder of the institute BTI. Patients from outside Spain visit for complex cases and bone regeneration.
My tip
Vitoria-Gasteiz is about an hour from Bilbao. Book several weeks ahead and send your X-rays in advance. Complex treatments take months, so ask about a plan of spaced-out visits.
Chapter Three
When to go to Vitoria-Gasteiz
My view in brief: May to October. Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holiday
January
No events listed in January. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Four
Where to stay in Vitoria-Gasteiz
Hotels I recommend in Vitoria-Gasteiz
- Parador de Argómaniz ★★★★
- Silken Ciudad de Vitoria ★★★★
Chapter Five
What to bring home
What deserves to come home with you from Vitoria-Gasteiz: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
Vasquitos y Nesquitas chocolate
A thin chocolate filled with praline, invented by the Goya confectioner's in Vitoria-Gasteiz more than a century ago, Vitoria-Gasteiz's most famous gift.
Chocolate truffles
Trufas de VitoriaCreamy chocolate balls called “trufas”, for which the old-town shops are known. Check that they are alcohol-free.
Álava potatoes
Patata de ÁlavaExcellent mountain potatoes bearing the “Eusko Label” seal, among the best potatoes in Spain for frying and boiling.
Coloured beans
Alubia pinta alavesaLocal speckled beans with a creamy texture, bought dry and cooked with vegetables.
- DOP
Idiazabal cheese
Queso Idiazabal DOPProtected Basque sheep's cheese, available in excellent versions from the Álava valley, plain or smoked.
Rioja Alavesa oil
Aceite de Rioja Alavesa – ArrónizA rare oil of the local “Arróniz” variety, green, grassy and slightly bitter, produced in small quantities in presses in southern Álava.
Chapter Six