Cáceres y Trujillo
A valley in northern Extremadura that turns white in spring as more than a million cherry trees bloom, with natural river pools (Garganta de los Infiernos – Los Pilones) for swimming in summer.
- When to go
- Late March and early April for the blossom, July for the natural pools
- How long you need
- 2–3 days
- For whom
- Couples, photographers and lovers of the countryside
Chapter One
The story of Cáceres y Trujillo
“Cáceres” is an Andalusi fortress whose Almohad walls and towers (including the “Bujaco” tower) still stand; Alfonso IX took it in 1229 CE, and its old town is a World Heritage site. “Trujillo” nearby, with its Islamic castle, is the home of the conquerors of America.
Figures of Cáceres y Trujillo
- 1468–1533
Diego García de Paredes
A legendary military commander nicknamed “the Samson of Extremadura”, born in Trujillo.
- 1478–1541
Francisco Pizarro
Conqueror of Peru, born in Trujillo, with an equestrian statue in its main square.
- 1511–1546
Francisco de Orellana
Born in Trujillo, he was the first European to navigate the Amazon River.
Chapter Two
Ready-made trips
1 hour-by-hour day plan and 1 walking route I drew myself in Cáceres y Trujillo, with the places to pray and eat where I marked them.
Chapter Three
Places in Cáceres y Trujillo
52 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
Heritage and monuments
10Ciudad Monumental de Cáceres (Plaza Mayor)
· Cáceres
One of the most complete medieval cities in Europe and a World Heritage site, surrounded by a 12th-century Almohad wall with adobe towers such as the Bujaco tower overlooking the main square, and crowded with noble palaces and towers.
My tip
Walk around at night when the walls are lit; start at the Arco de la Estrella on the main square.
Aljibe de Cáceres (Palacio de las Veletas)
· Cáceres
An Almohad water cistern carved into the rock beneath the Palacio de las Veletas, which stands on the site of the Islamic alcazaba, with horseshoe arches reflected in the water; one of the largest surviving Islamic cisterns in Spain. The palace houses the Cáceres museum.
My tip
Entry is free for EU citizens and a token price for others; groups are small, so you may wait a little.
Real Monasterio de Santa María de Guadalupe
· Guadalupe
One of Spain’s most important monasteries (a UNESCO World Heritage site), blending Gothic and Mudéjar; it has a Mudéjar cloister with a fountain in the Andalusi style and paintings by Zurbarán. It is linked to Isabella and Columbus, and its name “Guadalupe” is a hybrid beginning with the Arabic word “wadi”.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- One or two buses a day from Madrid, so a car is better; parking near the square, then a few steps up to the monastery. The interior tour takes 45 minutes on your feet. The town is sloping. Full services.
My tip
Inside, the visit is by accompanied tour only (in Spanish, about 45 minutes); pay in cash; photography is prohibited. The town itself is beautiful. Two hours from Cáceres.
Torre de Bujaco
· Cáceres
A towering Almohad tower (about 25 meters) on the Plaza Mayor in Cáceres, and the gateway to the World Heritage old town.
My tip
A token-price ticket covering three towers and the walk along the walls; the best spot to photograph the main square.
Murallas de Galisteo
· Galisteo
A small village whose Almohad wall is still almost complete (about a kilometer), built from rounded river stones, a rare case in Spain.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car (20 minutes from Plasencia); walking around the walls takes 30–40 minutes on nearly flat ground. Little shade; few cafés in the village.
My tip
Walk the whole wall (30–40 minutes); it is close to Plasencia, so it makes a stop on the way.
Puente Romano de Alcántara
· Alcántara
One of the greatest surviving Roman bridges in the world, built by Emperor Trajan (104–106 CE) over the Tajo with six arches and a height of nearly 70 meters, with a triumphal arch at its center. The Arabs called it “al-Qantara”, which gave the town its name.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- An hour and a quarter from Cáceres by car, near the Portuguese border. The bridge is flat and can be walked across, and the viewpoints are reached by short paths; one hour.
My tip
The best view is from the viewpoint above the bank, then go down to the bridge itself. In the town is the Monastery of San Benito of the Order of Alcántara. The area is hot in summer.
Restaurants and cafés
7Javier Martín
Chef Javier Martín's restaurant, recommended in the Repsol guides, serving Extremaduran cuisine in a creative style.
- One of the most respected tables in Cáceres outside Atrio, open daily.
TrySalmorejo, beef carpaccio, Extremadura lamb, Torta del Casar
Booking essential · Suits families and children, business meetings and couples
Mesón La Troya
A classic Extremaduran restaurant on the Plaza Mayor: migas, tortilla, a generous menu; a terrace on the square.
- With a view
TryMigas (without pork), tortilla
Booking advised · Everyday clothes · Suits families and children and friends and groups
Alberca
Signature Extremaduran cuisine with tasting menus (Ceniza), recommended by Michelin and Repsol. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
TryExtremaduran tasting menu
Booking essential · Smart casual · Suits couples and business meetings
Atrio
Refined Extremaduran and Iberian cuisine by Toño Pérez, with a legendary cellar, in the old town.
- ★★★ Michelin
- Romantic
TryTasting menu, fish, rice
Booking essential · Everyday clothes · Suits couples and business meetings
Madruelo
Product-led Extremaduran cuisine (retinto beef, Iberian, cod) with a very affordable tasting menu; dinner on Friday and Saturday only.
- A family house in the old town, recommended by the Michelin Guide and Repsol for its value for money.
TryRetinto beef, cod
Booking advised · Casual · Suits couples and business meetings
Torre de Sande
A restaurant in the Torre de Sande palace inside the old town, a World Heritage Site, with an enchanting stone courtyard.
- Sitting in the historic courtyard is an experience in itself; ask for a table outside.
TryExtremadura lamb, Torta del Casar, vegetable dishes, desserts
Booking advised · Suits families and children and couples
Nature and walks
17Parque Nacional de Monfragüe
· Villarreal de San Carlos
Europe’s most important raptor reserve: black vultures, griffon vultures, Spanish imperial eagles and black storks above the Tajo gorge at the Salto del Gitano rock; on the summit are the ruins of an Andalusi fortress (al-Mufrag), which gave the park its name.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car only, via the EX-208; the main viewpoints (Salto del Gitano) are on the roadside. Climbing the Monfragüe castle takes 15 minutes by steps. Intense heat in summer with no shade. Services and a café only in Villarreal de San Carlos.
My tip
Entry is free. The best time is the morning in spring and autumn; bring binoculars. The visitor centre is in Villarreal de San Carlos. In summer the heat is intense and shade is scarce.
Granadilla (villa medieval)
· Granadilla
A walled village founded by Muslims around the 9th century, abandoned in the sixties, when the Gabriel y Galán reservoir flooded its land, and then restored as part of an educational programme for students. Water surrounds it on three sides, and a castle rises above it.
What to see
The walls you can walk around the village · the castle and its tower overlooking the reservoir · the main street and restored houses · the village gate and bridge · views of the reservoir at sunset
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- An hour from Cáceres or Plasencia by car. Stone paths, and the wall has no railings in places; two hours.
My tip
Entry is free and it is closed on Mondays. Climbing the castle and walking the walls is a wonderful experience for children. There are no restaurants inside.
Villa Xarahiz
· Jaraíz de la Vera
A rural hotel with panoramic views over the La Vera valley and the Gredos mountains, in the famous natural pools area (the gargantas).
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car, on the EX-203 at the edge of Jaraíz de la Vera. Services in town are a few minutes away; the natural pools and the Monasterio de Yuste need a car.
My tip
In summer, swim in the natural pools of the valley; nearby is the Monasterio de Yuste, where Emperor Charles V retired.
Finca Flores Amarillas
· Almoharín
A country house in the Cáceres plains designed for families with children: a pool, farm animals, games and open spaces.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Near Almoharín in the Cáceres plains; reached by car, with the last stretch on a rural track. The village has basic services a few minutes away; the nearest large town is Miajadas/Trujillo (25–30 min). Very hot in summer.
My tip
Near Trujillo and old Cáceres. You rent the whole house, which guarantees the family complete privacy.
Parador de Jarandilla de la Vera
· Jarandilla de la Vera
A 15th-century castle-palace of the Counts of Oropesa, where Emperor Charles V stayed between 1556 and 1557 after abdicating, before moving to the nearby Monasterio de Yuste. It stands in the green La Vera valley, with its waterfalls and orchards of cherries, tobacco and red peppers.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car (few buses from Plasencia); the hotel is at the edge of town with its own parking, and Jarandilla’s services are a few minutes’ walk away.
My tip
Combine it with a visit to the Monasterio de Yuste (15 minutes by car) and the natural pools (gargantas) in summer.
San Martín de Trevejo (Sierra de Gata)
· San Martín de Trevejo
A stone village with wooden-balconied houses and streams running through its alleys. Its people speak a unique dialect, “A Fala”, descended from old Galician-Portuguese, amid the green Sierra de Gata mountains and olive groves.
What to see
The alleys and the water channels running through them · the square and the houses with wooden balconies · chestnut and oak forests · the ruins of Trevejo castle on the nearby rock
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car only; the village is small with steep alleys. Few services.
My tip
Combine it with the village of “Robledillo de Gata” and the natural swimming pools in summer.
Day trips
3Trujillo
· Trujillo
The city of the conquerors (Pizarro and Orellana), with its main square lined with palaces and an Islamic castle rising above it from the 9th and 10th centuries, with walls, towers and a water cistern from the days when “Trujillo” was one of the fortresses of the Middle March.
What to see
The main square and the Pizarro statue · the Islamic alcazaba, its cistern and walls · Palacio de la Conquista · the upper town inside the walls · the nobles’ palaces and towers
- How to get there
- Bus from Cáceres (≈45 min) — by car ≈40 min
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- By car or bus from Cáceres/Madrid. The main square is flat; the climb to the castle takes 15 minutes up steep stone streets (you can park near the castle). Services in the square. Hot in summer.
My tip
45 minutes from Cáceres; climb up to the castle for the view at sunset.
Plasencia – Catedrales
· Plasencia
A walled city on the Jerte River, founded by Alfonso VIII in 1186, with two adjoining cathedrals (the old Romanesque-Gothic and the new Gothic-Renaissance) and a lively main square; the gateway to the Jerte Valley and Monfragüe.
What to see
The two adjoining cathedrals, old and new · the main square and the “Abuelo Mayorga” statue on the town hall · the walls and their gates · Palacio de Mirabel · the Jerte Valley and its nearby natural pools
- How to get there
- Bus from Cáceres (≈1 h) — by car ≈1 h
- Easy to reach
- Reached by train and bus; the two cathedrals are in the historic center on nearly flat ground, with paid parking nearby. Full services, and suitable for older people.
My tip
The ticket (about 8 euros) covers both cathedrals and an audio guide. Combine it with the Jerte valley (cherry blossom March–April) and Monfragüe.
Murallas de Coria
· Coria
A small city on a hill above the Alagón river, surrounded by broad Roman walls rebuilt in the Islamic period, with a Gothic cathedral at its center overlooking the “Dry Bridge”, which the river has since left behind.
What to see
The Roman-Andalusi walls and their gates · the cathedral and its viewpoint · the castle of the Dukes of Alba and its five-sided tower · the “Dry Bridge” on the plain · the town square
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- An hour from Cáceres and an hour from Plasencia by car. The center is small with gentle slopes; two hours.
My tip
Walk the wall path, then go down to the cathedral viewpoint; combine it with Plasencia or Granadilla.
Experiences and family
6Museo de la cereza
· Cabezuela del Valle
In the Jerte Valley in Cáceres province, more than a million cherry trees bloom together in the “Cherry Blossom” festival (Cerezo en Flor), covering the mountains in white, followed by the harvest of the famous “Picota” cherries. The museum tells the story of this mountain farming and its terraces.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Inside Cabezuela del Valle on the N-110; parking nearby. A short visit. The cherry blossom festival (March–April) is very crowded. No practical public transport.
- Season
- Blossom: late March – April; harvest: May – July
My tip
Its opening times are irregular, so stop first at the tourist office in Cabezuela del Valle. Blossom is usually late March–early April, and the harvest May–July.
Garganta de los Infiernos (Valle del Jerte)
· Jerte
Natural pools carved in granite called “Los Pilones”, with clear mountain water and waterfalls, reached by a 40–60 minute trail. In late March and early April the whole valley is covered in white cherry blossom, a breathtaking sight.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- By car to the reserve’s interpretation center near Jerte (small parking). To the “Los Pilones” pools is about 3 km one way, 2 hours round trip on an uphill stony trail; not suitable for strollers. No services on the trail, and the rocks are slippery.
My tip
For swimming: July–September, though the water is very cold. For cherry blossom: follow the annual “Cerezo en Flor” announcement. Arrive early because the car parks are small.
Valleaventura. Rutas 4x4. Visitas Guiadas
· Jerte
A local company in the town of Jerte runs four-wheel-drive tours and guided walks among the cherry terraces and the Garganta de los Infiernos reserve with its natural pools, and in season lets you visit orchards and pick with the farmers.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Departures from Jerte; the four-wheel-drive tour with a driver means no effort on your part. Bumpy dirt tracks may not suit pregnant women. Book in advance.
- Season
- March – July
My tip
Book early in cherry blossom week, as the valley gets crowded; bring warm clothes for the morning.
Verdehesa
· Torrejón el Rubio
Guided tours of the “dehesa”, the Iberian oak pasture where Retinta cattle, horses and sheep graze, on the edge of Monfragüe National Park, with its vultures, and the Tajo; one of the loveliest rural landscapes in Spain.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- From Torrejón el Rubio near Monfragüe; the tour is by vehicle with a short walk. Book in advance. Intense summer heat with no shade. A car is needed.
- Season
- March – June, and October – November
My tip
Ask for the tour without the Ibérico meat tasting. Spring (April–May), when the pastures turn green and the flowers open, is the most beautiful time.
Meandro del Melero (Mirador de La Antigua)
· Riomalo de Abajo
The bend of the Alagón river that almost encircles a green, island-shaped hill, the symbol of the “Las Hurdes” region, which went from one of Spain’s poorest areas in Buñuel’s film to an enchanting natural destination.
My tip
The last 1.5 km to the viewpoint is a dirt track; drive slowly or walk from the car park.
Centro de Interpretación de la Miel (Ovejuela)
· Ovejuela (Pinofranqueado)
A small center in the village of Ovejuela in the Las Hurdes region, Spain’s largest honey-producing area, explaining how bees make honey and how beekeepers look after them. It can be combined with the region’s waterfalls and river trails.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car only, along winding mountain roads; a remote village in Las Hurdes. Few services.
My tip
It usually opens only on Saturdays and Sundays from 10:00 to 14:00, and may close without notice; call before you go (+34 643 90 92 77). Suitable for children from 5 years old. The best time for the area is spring, when the heather and chestnut trees bloom.
Where to stay
7Atrio Cáceres
· Cáceres
- One of the city's best hotels
- Romantic
A small Relais & Châteaux hotel in the heart of old Cáceres, known for its restaurant, which holds three Michelin stars.
My tip
Very few rooms; book early and tell them about your dietary restrictions in advance.
Parador de Cáceres
· Cáceres
- One of the city's best hotels
A restored palace inside the walled old town, a World Heritage site.
My tip
The best place for an evening stroll among the towers and palaces.
Extremadura y la Raya con Portugal
· Madrid → Cáceres → Évora
From Madrid to Trujillo, Cáceres, Roman Mérida and Badajoz, then across the border to Elvas, Marvão and Évora: 7–10 days and about 1000–1200 km, with Arab castles and alcazabas (the Alcazaba de Badajoz, the castle of Trujillo), dehesa oak woodlands and clear starry skies.
My tip
Extremadura's summer heat exceeds 40°, so March–May and October–November are best. In Portugal, motorways have electronic tolls: activate a Via Verde device or register the plate before crossing, and check that your rental contract allows entry into Portugal.
Parador de Trujillo
· Trujillo
A 16th-century convent of Santa Clara, whose nuns’ cells have been turned into rooms, around a calm Renaissance cloister. A few minutes’ walk from the main square of the town of the conquerors.
My tip
The restaurant serves Extremaduran dishes. Parking is paid and relatively expensive. Visit the Arab castle of Trujillo at sunset.
Parador de Plasencia
· Plasencia
The 15th-century Gothic monastery of San Vicente Ferrer, with majestic stone staircases and a vast cloister, which many consider one of the most beautiful paradores. It stands in the heart of the old town.
My tip
There is no lift in parts of it, so ask for a room nearby if your luggage is heavy. Join the free tour for guests. Opinions about the restaurant vary.
Petit Palace La Casa de Don Fernando
· Cáceres
- Boutique
A boutique hotel on the main square at the entrance to the World Heritage old town. It has a family suite with a living room, sofa bed and balcony.
My tip
Avoid the attic rooms (no windows and low ceilings). Arriving by car is confusing, so ask the hotel for directions.
Relaxation
2Garganta de los Infiernos – Los Pilones (Jerte)
· Jerte
A nature reserve in the Jerte Valley, famous for its cherry blossom; its best-known feature is “Los Pilones”, rock basins smoothed by water where clear, cold water collects. A lovely trail between oak and chestnut trees.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- About an hour by car from Plasencia on the N-110 (km 368); about an hour’s walk on a stony trail. Partial shade.
- Barbecue
- Not allowed: no fires or barbecues at all; picnic with ready food only.
My tip
A paid car park near the centre and a free one before it. About an hour's walk each way. Nothing is sold at the pools, so bring water and food. Swimming is at your own risk. Take your rubbish with you.
Garganta de Cuartos (Losar de la Vera)
· Losar de la Vera
A natural pool with crystal-clear cold water under an old stone bridge in La Vera, surrounded by rocks, trees and small, cheap restaurants.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- About two and a half hours by car from Madrid or an hour and a half from Cáceres; water is near the parking. Partial shade.
- Barbecue
- Not allowed: no fires or barbecues at all; picnic with ready food only.
My tip
Crowded because of the nearby campsites; arrive early. Usually a summer plan (mid-June–September). Take your rubbish with you.
Chapter Four
When to go to Cáceres y Trujillo
My view in brief: Late March and early April for the blossom, July for the natural pools. Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holiday
January
No events listed in January. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Five
Where to stay in Cáceres y Trujillo
Hotels I recommend in Cáceres y Trujillo
- Atrio Cáceres ★★★★★
- Parador de Cáceres ★★★★
Chapter Six
What to bring home
What deserves to come home with you from Cáceres y Trujillo: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
Torta del Casar DOP
Raw, creamy sheep's cheese “Merina”, runny at the heart; its top is opened and scooped out with bread. It is curdled with a vegetable rennet made from the wild artichoke flower (Cynara cardunculus), so it is a comfortable choice for a careful Muslim.
- DOP
Ibores cheese
Queso Ibores DOPGoat's cheese whose rind is brushed with olive oil and paprika, with a balanced, lightly smoked flavour.
- DOP
La Vera paprika
Pimentón de la Vera DOPPepper dried over oak-wood smoke and then ground, in sweet, bittersweet and hot grades; sold in beautiful tins.
- DOP
Jerte cherries
Cereza del Jerte DOP“Picota” cherries with no stalk, sweet and firm, from the Jerte valley; the season is June–July, and their blossom in March–April is famous.
- DOP
Villuercas-Ibores honey
Miel Villuercas-Ibores DOPProtected mountain honey in varieties: chestnut, heather, oak and mountain flowers.
- DOP
Gata-Hurdes oil
Aceite Gata-Hurdes DOPOil of the “Manzanilla Cacereña” variety, with apple and green banana notes, mildly pungent.
Chapter Seven