Abando / the modern district (Gran Vía)
Abando / Ensanche (Gran Vía)
The city's elegant commercial centre, safe and flat, close to the stations and within walking distance of the Guggenheim.
You'll find here
4–5-star hotels and historic hotels.
Bilbao
98 places in and around Bilbao, 22 of them among my favourite picks.
Chapter One
The story of Bilbao
Founded in 1300 CE by Diego López V de Haro, Lord of Biscay, it became a trading port, then the heart of Basque industry. After the Guggenheim Museum opened (1997), it became a global model of urban renewal through culture.
Figures of Bilbao
- d. 1310
Diego López V de Haro
The lord of Biscay who granted Bilbao its charter in 1300 CE; there is a statue of him in Bilbao's square.
- 1806–1826
Juan Crisóstomo de Arriaga
A prodigy composer dubbed “the Spanish Mozart”, born in Bilbao, whose main theater bears his name (Teatro Arriaga).
- 1864–1936
Miguel de Unamuno
A philosopher and writer of the “Generation of 98”, born in Bilbao; a square in the old quarter bears his name and holds his monument.
- 1916–1979
Blas de Otero
One of Spain's great 20th-century poets, born in Bilbao.
Chapter Two
Ready-made trips
2 hour-by-hour day plans and 2 walking routes I drew myself in Bilbao, with the places to pray and eat where I marked them.
Chapter Three
Places in Bilbao
98 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
Heritage and monuments
10Museo Guggenheim Bilbao
- One of the most beautiful places in Spain
The masterpiece of architect Frank Gehry, clad in titanium (1997), changed Bilbao's industrial face and became an icon of contemporary architecture; in its plaza stand the pink dog “Puppy” and the giant spider “Maman”.
My tip
Book tickets in advance; allow two hours, and walk around the building on the riverbank at night.
Casco Viejo de Bilbao
The historic core of Bilbao, with its seven streets and its new arcaded square, full of traditional shops and pintxos restaurants.
My tip
Pair it with the nearby Mercado de la Ribera; on Sunday morning there is a popular market in Plaza Nueva.
Puente Bizkaia
· Portugalete
The oldest transporter bridge in the world (1893) and a World Heritage Site; a suspended gondola carries people and cars over the river mouth between Portugalete and Getxo.
My tip
Crossing in the gondola is very cheap; going up to the upper walkway costs an extra ticket; it is 20 minutes by metro from Bilbao.
Cueva de Pozalagua
· Karrantza (Ranero)
Discovered by chance in 1957 when a quarry was blasted, it has the world's highest concentration of asymmetric, twisted, branch-like stalactites, in a large hall in the Carranza valley in Biscay.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- A narrow mountain road leads to a car park beside the entrance; equipped walkways inside, about 1 hour with steps. Cold temperature inside. Restaurant/cafe nearby. No practical public transport.
My tip
Open at weekends and on some days; book in advance, and photography is banned except at designated spots.
Museo de Bellas Artes de Bilbao
One of Spain's major art museums, with paintings from the 12th century to today (El Greco, Goya, Sorolla, Basque artists). It sits on the edge of the Parque de Doña Casilda Iturrizar and a few minutes from the Guggenheim.
My tip
The museum is undergoing a major expansion until around 2026, the display is limited, and entry is currently free; an hour is enough, and combine it with the garden next door.
Itsasmuseum Bilbao
A museum of navigation and shipbuilding that made Bilbao's fortune, on the quay of the old dry dock beside the giant red crane “Carola”. Screens and films in three languages, and interactive sections for children.
My tip
An hour and a half to two hours; closed Monday; the entrance has steps with no lift; 15 minutes on foot from the Guggenheim along the riverbank.
Restaurants and cafés
39Víctor Montes
Historic bar (1849) for pintxos and Basque cooking on Plaza Nueva. · since 1849
- Among the best tapas
TryCod pintxo, Basque dishes.
“Historic restaurant on Plaza Nueva for pintxos and meals.”
Booking advised · Casual · Suits couples, business meetings and friends and groups
Tamarises Izarra
Basque fish and meat cooking, with a terrace on Ereaga beach; tasting menu.
- With a view
TryGrilled fish, tasting menu
“Fish restaurant on Getxo beach, suitable for families.”
Booking advised · Casual · Suits families and children, couples and business meetings
La Viña del Ensanche
Popular restaurant and pintxos bar (1927), a reference for Iberian cured ham and Basque cooking. Closed Sunday and Monday. · since 1927
- A favourite of mine
- Among the best tapas
TryPil-pil cod, Basque dishes.
“Pintxos and traditional Basque dishes, rated 4.5.”
Booking advised · Casual · Suits couples, business meetings and friends and groups
Ramen Shifu Abando
Ramen, gyoza and bao; vegetarian options.
TryRamen, gyoza, bao.
“Japanese ramen rated 4.7, a light and comfortable choice.”
Everyday clothes · Suits families and children and friends and groups
Azurmendi
Sustainable fine dining by chef Eneko Atxa in an eco-building (3 Michelin stars). Dinner on Friday and Saturday only; closed Sunday and Monday.
- ★★★ Michelin
- With a view
TryEneko Atxa's tasting menu.
“Three Michelin stars and a sustainable restaurant on a hill near Bilbao.”
Booking essential · Formal, a jacket preferred · Suits couples and business meetings
Asador Etxebarri
Bittor Arginzoniz's grill: everything over the embers (prawns, chuleta) in a valley below Mount Anboto (one Michelin star). Lunch only; closed Monday and Tuesday.
- ★ Michelin
- With a view
- Romantic
Signature dishEverything is grilled over wood embers prepared daily: red prawns and txuleta
“One of the most famous wood-fire grill restaurants in the world, in a valley near Bilbao.”
Booking essential · Everyday clothes · Suits couples and business meetings
Nature and walks
15Funicular de Artxanda
A mountain railway that climbs in minutes to Mount Artxanda, where there is a wide park and the most beautiful panoramic view of Bilbao and the Guggenheim.
My tip
You can use a Barik card; go up before sunset.
Playa de Laga
· Ibarrangelu
A golden sandy beach in the Urdaibai reserve (a UNESCO biosphere reserve), guarded by the huge Ogoño rock; one of the most beautiful beaches in Biscay, with its unspoiled nature and surrounding mountains. The water is cold and the waves are often strong.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car along a winding coastal road from Gernika (20 minutes) to a paid car park above the beach in summer, then a short walk down. Small restaurant and toilets. The car park fills before noon; few Bizkaibus buses. The waves are sometimes strong.
My tip
Limited facilities (a small restaurant and toilets); come early as the car park fills up. Combine it with Gernika and the village of Elantxobe.
Mendi Goikoa
· Axpe (Atxondo)
Two 19th-century Basque farmhouses (baserri) in the village of Axpe, at the foot of Mount Anboto and the Urkiola natural park, with striking rocky views and a restaurant celebrating Basque cuisine. 40 minutes from Bilbao.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car only (35 minutes from Bilbao) to the small village of Axpe; services are in Elorrio and Durango (10–15 minutes). Private parking.
My tip
Walk in the Urkiola park, and order the lamb or the grilled meat rather than the other dishes.
Hayedo de Otzarreta (Gorbeia)
· Zeanuri
A small beech forest in the Gorbeia natural park, whose trunks, pruned long ago to make charcoal, twist into surreal shapes above a stream; it is one of the best-known photo spots in the Basque Country.
What to see
The tangled beech forest with its pruned trunks · the stream running between the trees · the short walking trail · the Gorbeia natural park · autumn colors and fog
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car to a parking spot on the road, then 5 minutes downhill. The ground is muddy. No facilities.
My tip
The place is small (15–30 minutes); make it part of a Gorbeia outing; autumn and the fog are its best times.
Parque de Doña Casilda Iturrizar
The most beautiful and greenest garden in Bilbao, with a lake of ducks and geese, dancing fountains and a wisteria pergola that blooms in spring. It lies between the Museo de Bellas Artes and the Guggenheim.
My tip
Flat and easy for pushchairs; has a children's playground; 30–45 minutes between two museums.
Parque Etxebarria
A large park on a hill above the old quarter, once an iron works whose chimney remains as a reminder. From it, the most beautiful view of Bilbao's red and white rooftops.
My tip
It has slopes and steps, but there is a public lift from the city side; suitable for children; 45 minutes.
Day trips
3San Juan de Gaztelugatxe
· Bermeo
- One of the most beautiful places in Spain
A rocky islet reached by a winding stone path of 241 steps that ends at a small church; one of the finest views of the Basque coast, and the series “Game of Thrones” was filmed here.
What to see
The stone path and the 241 steps · the small chapel at the top and its bell · the viewpoints along the islet · the town of Bermeo and its harbor · nearby Bakio beach
- How to get there
- Bizkaibus from Bilbao to Bakio/Bermeo (≈1 hour), then walk — by car ≈45 min
- Hard going · needs a car
- By car, or the seasonal Bizkaibus. Free booking is compulsory in season. From the car park, walk down about 2 km, then 241 steps to the hermitage; the climb back is tough, 1.5–2 hours round trip. Not suitable for strollers or older people. No facilities at the bottom.
My tip
Entry is free with advance booking in season; wear comfortable shoes; it is about 45 minutes by car from Bilbao.
Elantxobe
· Elantxobe
A fishing village perched on the slope of Mount Ogoño above the sea, its colorful houses stepping steeply down. Its street is so narrow that the bus turns on a turntable in the square.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- An hour by car from Bilbao on a winding coastal road; very steep alleys and stairs that do not suit children's strollers.
My tip
Leave the car in the upper car park and walk down to the harbour; the climb is tiring for children and older people. Combine it with Playa de Laga and the nearby Urdaibai reserve.
Lekeitio – Isla de San Nicolás
· Lekeitio
An elegant coastal town with a fishing port and a Gothic church. In front of it lies the small island of San Nicolás, which you can walk to over the sand at low tide. The quiet Isuntza beach is suitable for children.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- About an hour by car from Bilbao or San Sebastián; paid parking at the entrance, and the town is flat around the port.
My tip
Check the tide table before you go: crossing to the island is only possible at low tide, so do not be late when the water comes back. Summer is crowded; spring and autumn are quieter.
Experiences and family
8Salto del Nervión
· Berberana
Spain's highest waterfall: the Nervión river, which later runs through Bilbao, drops about 220 meters from the Salbada plateau into the Delika valley on the border of Burgos and Álava, in a rocky amphitheatre where vultures circle.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- From the Fuente Santiago car park (54 spaces), a level walk of 2 km / 30 min one way to the viewpoint. The waterfall dries up for most of the year—seen after heavy rain. Fog and wind. No facilities.
My tip
Set navigation to “Parking Hoyalante”, then walk about 2 km of easy path to the suspended platform. There is often no water in summer — it is best after the autumn and winter rains. Watch children near the edges.
Costa Verde Express
A Renfe hotel train on the Costa Verde between Bilbao and Santiago; passengers sleep on board and by day visit coastal towns and mountains, at a lower price than the Transcantábrico.
My tip
About six days; book early as seats are limited, and check the 2026 timetable on the Renfe website.
Bilboats
A boat trip on the Nervión estuary (the ría) shows how Bilbao changed from an industrial city and shipyards into a capital of contemporary architecture: the Guggenheim Museum and the Zubizuri Bridge, reaching — on the long tour — the suspended “Bizkaia” bridge, listed as a World Heritage Site.
My tip
Book ahead in summer; the short tour takes an hour, and the long one as far as the Puente Bizkaia takes about two hours.
Azkuna Zentroa – Alhóndiga Bilbao
A former wine warehouse that designer Philippe Starck turned into an amazing cultural center on 43 columns of different designs, with a glass-bottomed pool on top, where you can see swimmers' feet. Free exhibitions, a cinema, a library, cafés and a rooftop terrace with a view.
My tip
Half an hour to an hour; entry is free and the toilets are clean; an ideal shelter on a rainy day in the city centre.
Karpin Fauna (Karpin Abentura)
· Karrantza (Bizkaia)
An animal rescue center in the Carranza valley in western Biscay, with rescued wild animals, an animated dinosaur park and playgrounds. Cheap and suitable for a day in nature.
- Ages
- 3–12
- Setting
- Outdoors
My tip
You need a car (an hour from Bilbao); 2 to 3 hours. The restaurant is limited, so bring your own food.
Bizkaia Abentura Parkea
· Güeñes (Bizkaia)
A covered adventure park in Güeñes near Bilbao, with high rope courses, zip lines, trampolines and inflatables, and a play room for little ones.
- Ages
- 3–14
- Setting
- Indoors
My tip
Usually open at weekends during term time and daily during holidays; it is noisy, so bring earplugs. 2 hours.
Mosques and halal
4Masjid Badr (Bilbao)
A clean, well-organized mosque that brings together several communities.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually around 13:30 to 14:30 (it may slip to 15:00 in summer); check with the mosque beforehand. The khutba is at 14:30 and the prayer at around 15:00, depending on the worshippers.
Masjid Al-Furqan (Bilbao)
A large prayer hall in the Ibaiondo neighborhood.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually around 13:30 to 14:30 (it may slip to 15:00 in summer); check with the mosque beforehand. Friday at around 13:30 in winter, depending on the worshippers.
Carnicería Halal Farouk
· Bilbao (Abando)
A well-known chain of halal butchers in Bilbao with several branches: fresh meat, marinated olives and chicken kofta.
My tip
Open daily until 22:00; it has another branch on Maiatzaren Biko Kalea 22.
Carnicería Frutería Halal – Gordóniz
· Bilbao (Errekalde)
A butcher and greengrocer with low prices, fresh meat, chicken sausages and spices.
My tip
Open daily 8:00–22:00.
Where to stay
11The Artist Grand Hotel of Art
- One of the city's best hotels
A five-star art hotel (formerly Domine) directly opposite the Guggenheim Museum.
My tip
The inside rooms are quieter; the upper balcony overlooks the museum.
Ruta Cantábrica: País Vasco – Cantabria – Asturias – Galicia
· Bilbao → Santiago
From Bilbao to Santiago de Compostela via San Sebastián, Santander, Santillana del Mar, Comillas, the Picos de Europa, Llanes and Ribadeo: 10–14 days and about 900–1100 km. Green nature and Spain's coolest summer (20–25°), which makes it the most suitable camper route in July and August.
My tip
The general rule in Spain: parking a motorhome is allowed wherever a car may park, but “camping” (taking out chairs, an awning, levelling props or opening protruding windows) is banned outside campsites, and many coastal municipalities ban even overnight stays. Free overnight stays on beaches and in natural parks are banned, and violations are common, so stick to municipal service areas (Área de autocaravanas) and campsites. Bilbao and San Sebastián both have low-emission zones (ZBE), so check the DGT sticker on the vehicle.
Hotel Carlton Bilbao
- One of the city's best hotels
A classic historic hotel on Plaza Moyúa, with the character of the grand old hotels and spacious rooms.
My tip
It sits between the museum and the old town, and walking to both is a pleasure.
Indie Campers Bilbao - RV & Campervan Rentals
· Derio
The Bilbao branch (4.6 with more than 2100 reviews) is the natural starting point for the Ruta Cantábrica: Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia.
My tip
It is in Derio near the airport; the northern coastal roads are winding, so choose a short van (under 6 metres) if you want to visit the mountain villages.
Autocaravanas Van Van Go Bilbao
· Derio
A family company in Bilbao rated 5.0 from about 400 reviews, renting motorhomes and camper vans for the Northern Coast; customers praise its flexibility and for paying only part of the amount at booking.
My tip
Near Bilbao airport; closed on Sunday, and open on Saturday mornings only.
Líbere Bilbao Museo
· Bilbao (Abando)
Digital hotel apartments near the Guggenheim Museum and the Abando district of Bilbao, with kitchens and washing machines. An excellent location for walking along the riverbank.
My tip
Contact is digital; request the entry codes before you arrive. Check the tourist licence number (VUT/ESFCTU) in the listing, do not transfer money outside the platform, and beware of fake Idealista and Facebook offers.
Shopping
4Mercado de la Ribera
One of the largest covered markets in Europe, an Art Deco building (1929) on the Nervión riverbank with stained-glass windows, and it houses a fish hall and Basque food counters.
My tip
Visit in the morning to see the fresh fish; the food corner is on the ground floor.
Gran Vía de Bilbao – El Corte Inglés
The main shopping street in Bilbao, from Plaza Moyúa to the river, lined with the big brands and the El Corte Inglés store.
My tip
Shops close on Sunday; the gourmet restaurant is on the top floor of El Corte Inglés.
Las Siete Calles (Casco Viejo de Bilbao)
The original network of seven streets in Bilbao's old town: narrow pedestrian streets full of small traditional shops and bakeries, near the cathedral and the Mercado de la Ribera.
My tip
Fully pedestrian and suitable for families; for the big brands, head to Gran Vía across the bridge.
Fashion Outlet Barakaldo (MegaPark)
· Barakaldo
The largest outlet in the Basque Country, on the edge of Bilbao inside the MegaPark complex, with mid-range and sports brands. An enclosed, air-conditioned and comfortable place on rainy days.
My tip
The last Thursday of the month usually brings extra discounts; closed on Sunday, and parking is free.
Relaxation
4Parque Natural de Urkiola
· Abadiño
Green limestone mountains between Bilbao and Vitoria-Gasteiz, with the Urkiola shrine at their heart; from it, easy trails for families run among beech forests and pastures with horses. Picnic areas near the shrine.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- About 40 minutes by car from Bilbao via Durango; car parks at the shrine and picnic tables nearby. Good shade.
- Barbecue
- Not allowed: no fires or barbecues at all; picnic with ready food only.
My tip
The weather is changeable; bring rain clothes. Restaurants near the sanctuary. Take your rubbish back with you.
Pagomakurre (Gorbeia)
· Areatza
A meadow and car park in a beech and pine forest on the slopes of Mount Gorbeia, the highest peak in Biscay, with toilets and open spaces for picnics. From it, trails lead to the Itxina karst maze.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- About 45 minutes by car from Bilbao via Areatza; free parking and toilets. Good shade.
- Barbecue
- Not allowed: no fires or barbecues at all; picnic with ready food only.
My tip
The mountain road is narrow and hard to pass; drive with care. Two more car parks lower down the road if this one fills up. Take your rubbish back with you.
Iturritxualde (Monte Avril, Bilbao)
A large picnic area on Monte Avril overlooking Bilbao, where in 2024 the council renovated a safe island of ten covered barbecues with metal roofs and a fountain. Wide meadows and a view of the city.
- Moderate effort
- A 20–30 minute uphill walk from the Txurdinaga/Otxarkoaga metro neighborhood. Tables, shade and fountains.
- Barbecue
- Allowed at fixed barbecues. In the Basque Country, barbecuing at fixed grills is allowed all year, except when the regional government or the municipality announces a ban during heatwaves and droughts.
My tip
It is reached on foot from Santutxu or Txurdinaga; the path is steep but easy for children. It has cold-water showers and fountains.
Parque de Mendikosolo (Arrigorriaga)
· Arrigorriaga
A natural park around a small turquoise lake near Bilbao, with plenty of barbecue spots, tables and walking trails, and a café selling grilled chicken.
- Easy to reach
- C3 train from Abando to Arrigorriaga, then a walk of about 15 minutes. A bar and tables.
- Barbecue
- Allowed at fixed barbecues. In the Basque Country, barbecuing at fixed grills is allowed all year, except when the regional government or the municipality announces a ban during heatwaves and droughts.
My tip
The train from Abando station (line C3) reaches it, then a short walk; ideal for a family without a car.
Chapter Four
When to go to Bilbao
Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holidayBars: lowest and highest temperature
June14° to 23°
Pleasant (14–23°C). We recommend the beaches of Sopelana and Getxo.
No events listed in June. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Five
Where to stay in Bilbao
Where I wouldn't stay
San Francisco / Bilbao La Vieja at nightSan Francisco / Bilbao La Vieja
On the other side of the old town; an uncomfortable area at night, and not recommended as a place to stay.
Hotels I recommend in Bilbao
- The Artist Grand Hotel of Art ★★★★★
- Hotel Carlton Bilbao ★★★★★
- Ruta Cantábrica: País Vasco – Cantabria – Asturias – Galicia
Chapter Six
What to bring home
What deserves to come home with you from Bilbao: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
Gernika pepper
Pimiento de Gernika – Gernikako PiperraA small sweet green pepper fried in olive oil and sprinkled with salt; it carries the Basque quality seal “Eusko Label”, and its season runs from May to October.
Pil-pil salt cod
Bacalao al pil-pilBilbao's iconic dish: salt cod slowly cooked in olive oil and garlic until an emulsified sauce forms; buy the salted cod from bacaladerías.
Basque beans
Alubia de Gernika / Alubia de TolosaFine local beans with a thin skin, cooked slowly; order them cooked without pork, or buy them dry.
Northern tuna belly
Ventresca de bonito del NorteCanned white tuna belly in olive oil from factories on the Basque coast, the finest seafood gift from the province.
Bilbao sweets
Carolinas y pastel de arroz“Carolina” is a small cake with a meringue topping covered in chocolate and egg yolk, and “Pastel de arroz” is a Bilbao custard pie that, despite its name, contains no rice.
Chapter Seven
Getting around Bilbao
Bilbao has a modern two-line metro designed by Norman Foster, a Euskotren tram along the riverbank, and buses run by Bilbobus. The rechargeable “Barik” card covers all transport at reduced fares, and the “Bilbao Bizkaia Card” combines transport and museums. From the airport: Bizkaibus A3247 to the centre (Moyúa) and the bus station, about 20 minutes, every 15–20 minutes, or a taxi for about 30–35 euros. Taxis are the main alternative, as transport apps are limited. Tips: the centre, the old town and the Guggenheim are all walkable, and Abando station is the central hub for Renfe.
Last reviewed1 October 2026