Asturias

“The natural paradise,” as locals call it: green mountains sloping down to the Cantabrian Sea, colourful fishing villages such as Cudillero and Llanes, the glacial Lagos de Covadonga, and Picos de Europa National Park with the Cares trail carved into the rock. Summers are mild, the rain keeps it green all year round, and its cuisine is one of the richest in Spain, with cheeses, fabada and seafood.

When to go
June to September (mild, 20–25°)
How long you need
5–7 days
For whom
Families escaping the summer heat, and lovers of nature and walking
Santa María del Naranco, the 9th-century Asturian palace overlooking Oviedo
Photo GerarAS · Public domain

On this page

Chapter One

The story of Asturias

The mountainous region where Islamic rule never settled. Here the Battle of Covadonga (around 722 CE) took place, which is considered the start of the Asturian kingdom and the launch of the “Reconquest”. Alfonso II made Oviedo the capital of his kingdom, and its pre-Romanesque churches are listed as World Heritage.

Figures of Asturias

  1. d. 737

    Pelayo

    Founder of the Asturian kingdom after Covadonga. His statue and tomb are at the Real Sitio de Covadonga in the mountains.

  2. 760–842

    Alfonso II el Casto

    The king of Asturias who made Oviedo his capital and built the “Holy Chamber” in its cathedral.

  3. 1744–1811

    Gaspar Melchor de Jovellanos

    One of the most prominent figures of the Spanish Enlightenment, born in Gijón, where his birth house is now a museum.

  4. 1852–1901

    Leopoldo Alas «Clarín»

    Professor at the University of Oviedo and author of the novel “The Regent's Wife” (La Regenta), set in Oviedo. Its heroine has a statue in front of the cathedral.

Chapter Two

Places in Asturias

130 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.

Heritage and monuments

11
  1. Real Sitio de Covadonga

    · Covadonga

    A cave and a church in the Picos de Europa mountains, linked to the Battle of Covadonga (around 722 CE) between Pelayo and the Umayyad expedition. Spaniards regard this battle as the beginning of the “Reconquest”. An important site for understanding the other side of al-Andalus’s history.

    Moderate effort
    Car or bus from Cangas de Onís. The sacred cave is reached by a long staircase or a level tunnel, and the church by a short climb. Restaurants and cafés. On traffic-control days, private cars are barred from the road to the lakes and shuttle buses run.

    My tip

    Combine it with the lakes above; in summer the road is closed to cars and shuttle buses run.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  2. Santa María del Naranco

    · Oviedo

    A royal palace built by King Ramiro I in 848 on the slope of Naranco mountain, later turned into a church. One of the masterpieces of Asturian pre-Romanesque architecture, listed by UNESCO. It overlooks all of Oviedo.

    My tip

    A guided visit covers the nearby San Miguel de Lillo; 10 minutes by car or a 40-minute walk up; restaurants with a view nearby.

  3. Elogio del Horizonte (Cerro de Santa Catalina)

    · Gijón

    A giant concrete sculpture by Chillida (500 tons) on a green hill at the edge of the old fishing quarter of Cimadevilla, overlooking the open sea. Standing beneath it, you hear the echo of the waves.

    My tip

    An easy climb along paths and slopes; it is most beautiful at sunset; the wind is strong, so take a jacket.

  4. Casco Histórico de Oviedo

    · Oviedo

    The capital of the Kingdom of Asturias, which arose in the north after the Islamic conquest. Clean stone streets, lively squares, and statues in the streets, such as those of Mafalda and Woody Allen.

    My tip

    A walkable city, and near it are the pre-Romanesque churches listed as World Heritage.

  5. Cueva de Tito Bustillo

    · Ribadesella

    Discovered in 1968, it holds original Paleolithic paintings of horses, deer and gazelles in red and black. It is one of the most important rock art sites in Asturias and is listed as a World Heritage site.

    Easy to reach
    On the edge of Ribadesella, near the bridge; parking and an interpretation center. The cave is open seasonally in very small numbers. Booking is essential and there are age limits (not for small children). Internal staircase.

    My tip

    It opens only in the warm season and to groups of 15 people; book early and validate your ticket at the visitor centre before the tour.

  6. Museo de Bellas Artes de Asturias

    · Oviedo

    A wonderful free museum in three palaces in the old quarter, with works by El Greco, Goya, Sorolla, Picasso, Dalí and Asturian artists.

    My tip

    An hour and a half; entry is always free; closed Mondays.

Restaurants and cafés

42
  1. Mamáguaja

    Market and fish cooking in central Gijón; a good wine cellar. Closed Mondays.

    • A favourite of mine

    TryFish, rice, today's menu

    Booking advised · Casual · Suits couples, business meetings and friends and groups

    Google Maps ↗Restaurant page

  2. Ca' Suso

    The Vito brothers' restaurant, listed in the Michelin Guide, near the cathedral, reinventing Asturian cooking with a personal touch.

    • One of Oviedo's most appreciated restaurants, with a warm atmosphere and an excellent-value lunch menu.

    TryBaby squid in its ink, braised oxtail, Asturian goat's cheese, Asturian rice pudding

    Booking essential · Suits couples and families and children

    Google Maps ↗Restaurant page

  3. V. Crespo

    A traditional restaurant in central Gijón that locals consider one of the best tables in the city, known for lobster rice.

    • Consistent quality and refined Asturian seafood cooking; book, as it fills up.

    TryLobster rice, lobster salpicón, lubina, oxtail, warm almond tart

    Booking essential · Suits families and children, business meetings and couples

    Google Maps ↗Restaurant page

  4. El Pescador

    The most famous fish restaurant in the colourful fishing village of Cudillero, working directly with the harbour fish auction and listed in the Michelin Guide.

    • The fish of the day is shown to you before it is cooked; the seafood rice is among the best on the Asturian coast; prices are fairly high, but the quality justifies them.

    Signature dishSeafood rice (Arroz de marisco).

    Booking advised · Suits families and children and couples

    Google Maps ↗Restaurant page

  5. El Barómetro

    A family restaurant on the quay of Luarca, the “White Village” on Asturias' west coast, right in front of the fishing boats.

    • One of the highest-rated restaurants in Luarca; traditional seafood cooking with produce from the harbour market and reasonable prices.

    TryGrilled sea bass or hake, squid in its ink, seafood rice, Asturian rice pudding

    Booking advised · Suits families and children and couples

    Google Maps ↗Restaurant page

  6. Mesón El Centro

    A small gem in the harbour of Puerto de Vega, one of Asturias' loveliest fishing villages, with a quiet inner courtyard.

    • Counted among the finest west-coast tables: grilled scallops and small fish with great precision, and the cheesecake is one of its most famous desserts. Booking online is recommended.

    Signature dishCheesecake (Tarta de queso).

    Booking essential · Suits couples and families and children

    Google Maps ↗Restaurant page

Nature and walks

26
  1. Lagos de Covadonga (Mirador de Entrelagos)

    · Cangas de Onís

    In the high Picos de Europa, at an altitude of about 1100 meters, the glacial lakes Enol and Ercina lie among green pastures where cows graze, under towering limestone peaks. They are among the most beautiful natural scenes in Spain. The Mirador de la Reina on the climb road overlooks them with a panoramic view down to the sea, and the Mirador de Entrelagos shows both together. From the car park, an easy loop (about 5 km and two hours) passes the two lakes, the old Buferrera mines and the Pedro Pidal visitor center. It suits families and children. At the foot of the road are the Real Sitio de Covadonga and the sacred cave, which in the Spanish story is linked to the Battle of Covadonga in 722 CE, considered the beginning of the “Reconquest”.

    What to see

    Lakes of Enol and Ercina · Mirador de la Reina · Mirador de Entrelagos · Buferrera mines and the Pedro Pidal visitor centre · the Holy Cave and Covadonga basilica · the Roman bridge in Cangas de Onís

    Moderate effort
    The CO-4 mountain road is 12 km long and is closed to cars on traffic-control days in 2026 (Easter, May holidays, 1 June–18 October), so take the shuttle bus from Cangas. A loop around the two lakes takes 1–1.5 hours with a gentle climb. One restaurant. Fog, cold and weak signal.

    My tip

    In 2026 the CO-4 road is closed to private cars on managed days: Easter holiday, most of April, weekends in May, and daily from 1 June to 18 October (except 6 June, 25 July and 8 September), then 24, 25 and 31 October, 1–2 November and 1–8 December. On these days, go up by ALSA bus from the transfer car parks (Cangas de Onís, El Bosque, Muñigu, Repelao, El Peregrino) at €3 per car park for the whole day; the ticket is €9 for adults and €3.5 for children aged 4–11, and free under 3; the first bus is at 8:00 and the last ascent at 17:45 (16:00 from October). Book in advance at alsa.es or buslagoscovadonga.es. The road to the shrine itself is always open. The best times, from May to October, are early in the morning; fog suddenly covers the lakes, so check the webcams and bring a jacket and an umbrella even in summer.

  2. Puebloastur Eco-Resort Hotel & Spa

    · Cofiño (Parres)

    A luxury eco-resort on a green hill overlooking the Picos de Europa mountains, with a large spa, a pool, and nature activities for children.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    By car via a rural road (about 10 minutes from Arriondas); no practical public transport. Full services in Arriondas and Cangas de Onís.

    My tip

    An excellent base for visiting Covadonga and its lakes (where Pelayo's resistance to the Muslims began in 722 CE) and for boat trips on the Sella river.

  3. Playa de Rodiles

    · Villaviciosa

    One of the most beautiful beaches in Asturias and one of the most suitable for families: wide golden sand at the mouth of the Villaviciosa estuary, fringed by a shady eucalyptus forest with sitting and picnic areas. The water is cold almost all year (18–20° at the height of summer), and the waves can rise, but the view between the river, the ocean and the mountains is captivating.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    By car from Villaviciosa (15 minutes) to a large parking area behind the eucalyptus forest, then a flat 5–10 minute walk to the sand. Lifeguards, toilets and restaurants in summer. Parking fills in the August holidays, so arrive before 11 a.m.; public transport is almost nonexistent.

    My tip

    The best time is July to early September; there are lifeguards, toilets, a shower and two restaurants. Watch the flag: red means no swimming. The forest shade is ideal for a family outing.

  4. Bufones de Pría

    · Llanes

    Limestone cliffs cut by holes from which seawater spurts as spray reaching tens of meters, with an audible roar when the waves rise.

    Moderate effort · needs a car
    By car only. Park near Llames de Pría, then walk 15–20 minutes on a dirt track and grass above the cliff. No barriers, no services, no shade; dangerous for children. The phenomenon needs high tide and strong waves, and the ground is slippery when wet.

    My tip

    You only see this phenomenon at high tide with strong waves, so check the tide table. There are no barriers, so watch the children.

  5. Hotel Torre de Villademoros

    · Villademoros (Valdés)

    A country house beside a medieval tower on the western coast of Asturias, between meadows and sea cliffs. Small and quiet, with personal service.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    By car near the A-8 road between Cudillero and Luarca; the last stretch is a narrow rural road. The nearest services are in nearby villages (5–10 minutes), and Luarca is 15 minutes away. The coastal path has no barriers.

    My tip

    A coastal walking path starts at the hotel and leads to the cliffs; close to the colourful harbour of Cudillero and to Luarca.

  6. Camping Picos de Europa

    · Avín (Onís)

    A large campsite on a riverbank in Avín, in the heart of Asturias, with cabins, a pool and adventure activities, near Covadonga and the Enol lakes.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    In Avín on the AS-114 road between Cangas de Onís and Arenas de Cabrales; parking inside the campsite and a restaurant. The Lagos de Covadonga road is closed to cars in summer, at Easter and on holidays, and buses from Cangas are used.

    My tip

    An economical base for a large family; book the canoe trip on the Sella river from Cangas de Onís.

Day trips

5
  1. Cudillero

    · Cudillero

    A fishing village with colorful houses tiered like an amphitheater down the hill to the port. One of the most beautiful villages on the Asturian coast.

    What to see

    The tiered, coloured houses around the harbour · the La Garena lookout and other viewpoints · the stepped alleys · Cudillero lighthouse · the nearby Playa del Silencio

    How to get there
    Alsa bus from Oviedo (≈1 hr) — by car ≈50 min
    Moderate effort
    Bus from Oviedo/Avilés or car. Park at the entrance and walk 10 minutes down to the port. The houses are on a steep slope with stairs. Many fish restaurants. The way back is uphill.

    My tip

    Leave the car at the entrance and walk down; the fish dishes are at the harbour.

  2. Llanes

    · Llanes

    An elegant coastal town with a colorful port, a painted wall of “Cubos de la Memoria”, small beaches between the cliffs, and the Picos de Europa mountains behind.

    What to see

    The “Cubos de la Memoria” on the harbour breakwater · the San Pedro promenade above the cliff · the old town, its walls and tower · the Bufones de Pría sea spouts · Playa de Gulpiyuri, the inland beach

    How to get there
    Alsa bus from Oviedo (≈1 hr 30 min) — by car ≈1 hr 10 min
    Easy to reach
    FEVE train or bus from Oviedo, or car. The town is flat and the seafront promenade is easy. Full services. Frequent rain.

    My tip

    Combine it with the nearby Bufones de Pría; an hour and a half from Oviedo.

  3. Taramundi

    · Taramundi

    A mountain village in the far west of Asturias, famous for handmade knives and metalwork. Around it are museum villages such as “Os Teixois”, with traditional water mills. One of the pioneers of rural tourism in Spain.

    Moderate effort · needs a car
    Two and a half hours from Oviedo, and one hour from Playa de las Catedrales; narrow, winding mountain roads.

    My tip

    Visit the knife-making workshops and buy a distinctive gift from them. The water and mill trails are easy and suitable for children. The area is remote, so plan to stay overnight.

  4. Luarca

    · Luarca (Valdés)

    The “White Pearl” of the Asturian coast: a fishing port in a narrow bay between two hills, with white houses and small bridges stepping down to the water. Above it, a lighthouse and a church overlook the sea.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    An hour and a quarter by car from Oviedo; parking at the port. The upper viewpoints need stairs or a road climb.

    My tip

    Go up to the lighthouse area and the church of La Atalaya for the panoramic view. The town suits a two-hour stroll with a fish meal at the harbour.

  5. Tazones

    · Villaviciosa

    A small, colourful fishing village at the mouth of the Villaviciosa estuary, where Emperor Charles V first landed in Spain in 1517. Its houses are decorated with shells, and its alleys slope down towards the harbour.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    30 minutes by car from Gijón; parking at the entrance to the village, and the walk down to the port is downhill.

    My tip

    A short visit of one to two hours; the seafood restaurants on the harbour are famous. A few minutes away are dinosaur footprints on La Ousa beach.

Experiences and family

23
  1. Ruta del Cares

    · Poncebos – Caín

    The Divine Gorge (Garganta Divina) in the heart of the Picos de Europa: a path carved into the rock hundreds of meters above a turquoise river, with tunnels, hanging bridges and mountain goats keeping you company. 12 km one way between Poncebos and Caín, with a steep climb in the first 2–3 km and then nearly level ground. It suits active families and children from 8 years old. You can settle for an hour there and back from the Caín side.

    Hard going · needs a car
    By car to Poncebos (parking fills before 9). The trail is 12 km one way to Caín (24 km round trip, 6–8 hours). The first 2 km climb steeply, and the edges have no barriers. No water or toilets, and no signal. The return by road takes over two hours by taxi, booked in advance.

    My tip

    Start before 8 am, because the Poncebos car park fills up, and bring water and food (there are no toilets on the trail). To return without walking back, book a 4WD from Caín, and avoid rainy summer days.

  2. Descenso del Sella en canoa

    · Arriondas

    The most famous canoe trip in Spain. You paddle with the current between green Asturian meadows and gentle rapids, with stops for swimming and picnics. Distances of 7, 10 or 14 km (2–4 hours), and the bus brings you back. Suitable for families and for children from 6 years old, in a double canoe with a parent.

    Moderate effort · needs a car
    By car to Arriondas. Paddling 7–15 km (2–4 hours), and the company brings you back by bus. Suitable for children from 6 years old, with life jackets. The water is cold, and toilets are only at the stations. Avoid Saturdays in summer.

    My tip

    Avoid Saturdays in summer (noisy bachelor parties) and the first Saturday of August (the international race). Choose Sunday or a weekday morning, and bring spare clothes; the company provides lockers and a shower.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  3. Museo y Circuito Fernando Alonso

    · La Morgal (Llanera)

    The museum of the Formula 1 world champion displays all his cars, from his first kart to the McLaren and Senna’s car. Next to it, in the same complex, a go-kart track for adults and children. A dream for every child who loves cars, 15 minutes from Oviedo.

    My tip

    Book the karting session in advance with the museum ticket, and set aside 3 hours. Suits a rainy day in Asturias.

  4. Playa de las Catedrales

    · Ribadeo (Lugo)

    • One of the most beautiful places in Spain

    Natural arches 30 meters high, and passages and caves carved by the ocean. They are not visible, and you walk among them only at low tide. One of the most amazing natural sights on the Atlantic coast, and a wonderful adventure for children.

    Moderate effort
    Car or FEVE train to a small nearby station. Free booking is mandatory at Easter and from July to September. A steep descent by steps to the sand; the walk depends on low tide only, and the rising tide closes the caves quickly. Toilets and a café at the top.

    My tip

    In summer and at Easter a free advance booking is required on the Galician government website. Check the tide table and go in two hours before low tide.

  5. MUJA – Museo del Jurásico de Asturias

    · Colunga

    A dinosaur museum on a plateau overlooking the sea near Colunga. The building is shaped like a dinosaur footprint, with skeletons, life-size replicas and sculptures in the outdoor garden.

    Ages
    3–14
    Setting
    Indoors and outdoors

    My tip

    The outside is free and entry is cheap (free on Wednesdays); two hours. Combine it with seeing real dinosaur footprints on the nearby coast's beaches.

  6. Museo del Jurásico de Asturias (MUJA)

    · Colunga

    A dinosaur museum shaped like a dinosaur footprint, on a cliff overlooking the sea, with skeletons and life-size models inside. The Asturian coast around it is rich in real dinosaur footprints.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    40 minutes by car from Gijón; the building is adapted for wheelchairs and strollers.

    My tip

    Closed Mondays and Tuesdays outside summer; entry is free on Wednesday. The outdoor dinosaur garden is free. Two hours is ideal for children from 4 years; café and free car park.

Mosques and halal

2
  1. Mezquita de Oviedo

    · Oviedo

    The community prayer room in Oviedo.

    My tip

    Friday prayer is usually around 13:30–14:30 (it may be delayed to 15:00 in summer); check with the mosque beforehand. Its online information is scarce, so confirm the Friday time in advance.

  2. Comunidad Musulmana de Gijón Al-Mohcinin

    · Gijón

    The community prayer room in the center of Gijón.

    My tip

    Friday prayer is usually around 13:30–14:30 (it may be delayed to 15:00 in summer); check with the mosque beforehand. There is no website or published timetable; ask in advance about the Friday time.

Where to stay

8
  1. Eurostars Hotel de la Reconquista

    · Oviedo

    • One of the city's best hotels

    A royal hospital from the 18th century converted into the most established hotel in Oviedo, opposite San Francisco park.

    My tip

    Rooms vary; visit the hall and the historic courtyard even if you do not stay there.

  2. Parador de Gijón Molino Viejo

    · Gijón

    • One of the city's best hotels

    An old mill inside the Isabel la Católica park, near San Lorenzo beach.

    My tip

    The restaurant is good; the location is a little far from the centre.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  3. Motorhomes Area (Cangas de Onís)

    · Cangas de Onís

    A free municipal area in the heart of Cangas de Onís, the first capital of the Kingdom of Asturias, near Covadonga, where the wars of the Reconquest began. It has free water and emptying, and a short walk to the Roman bridge.

    My tip

    The police ban sleeping in ordinary car parks and issue fines; sleep only within the designated area. In summer, access to the Lagos de Covadonga requires the mandatory bus.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  4. Parador de Cangas de Onís

    · Villanueva de Cangas

    The former monastery of San Pedro de Villanueva on the bank of the Sella river at the entrance to the Picos de Europa, with modern rooms and gardens. An excellent base for visiting Covadonga and its lakes.

    My tip

    The town is 3 km away, so you need a car; visit the Lagos de Covadonga early, because the road is closed to private cars in peak seasons.

  5. Hotel Castillo del Bosque La Zoreda

    · Oviedo

    An early-20th-century English-style palace inside a private forest on the edge of Oviedo. Five stars, with a quiet, secluded atmosphere, suitable for those who want privacy close to the city.

    My tip

    You need a car for every trip; book directly to get breakfast, and weddings are held there at weekends.

  6. Barceló Oviedo Cervantes

    · Oviedo

    • Boutique

    A four-star boutique hotel in a renovated residential mansion in central Oviedo, with spacious modern rooms and a distinguished restaurant. A walk from the old quarter and the cathedral.

    My tip

    The car park inside the hotel is safe; ask for the Premium rooms, which are larger.

Shopping

2
  1. Los Picos Tuñón

    · Cangas de Onís

    A local shop for hiking and climbing in Cangas de Onís, the gateway to the Picos de Europa mountains and the Lagos de Covadonga. Useful if you forgot an essential item before the climb.

    My tip

    Buy a rain jacket and waterproof shoes here, as Asturias' weather is changeable and fog is common around the lakes; open Sunday morning.

  2. Mercado El Fontán

    · Oviedo

    An iron market from 1885 behind the colorful arcaded square (Plaza del Fontán), with fish, Asturian cheeses and vegetables. On Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays there is a popular market outside.

    My tip

    In the morning; combine it with Fontán square and the old quarter; half an hour.

Relaxation

10
  1. Área recreativa de Monte Deva

    · Gijón (Santurio)

    A picnic and barbecue area on the summit of Monte Deva, overlooking the city of Gijón and the Cantabrian Sea. Public tables and barbecues among the meadows, and nearby a farm of pure Asturcón horses.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    By car only from Gijón (about 15 minutes). The last stretch climbs very steeply but is paved. Parking beside the meadows and picnic tables. Little shade, and wind and fog change quickly. No restaurants on the summit; the nearest services are in Gijón.

    My tip

    The last stretch is very steep; the weather changes quickly in Asturias, so take a jacket. In Asturias restrictions are lighter, but lighting fires is banned on declared danger days; in general, barbecues are banned in many provinces from about 15 May to 15 October, so check the forest-fire rules for the region before you go.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  2. Área recreativa El Valláu

    · Sobrescobio (Redes)

    A recreational area on a clear river inside the Redes Natural Park (a UNESCO biosphere reserve) in the Asturian mountains. Wooden tables in the shade, several well-kept barbecues, and river water where children swim in summer.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    By car via the winding mountain road AS-117 to a small parking area that fills quickly; tables a few steps away in the shade beside the river. No toilets; groceries and restaurants in Rioseco (a few minutes by car). Phone signal is patchy in the valley.

    My tip

    The car park is small, so go early; there are no toilets, and there is a grocery in nearby Rioseco. In Asturias restrictions are lighter, but lighting fires is banned on declared danger days; in general, barbecues are banned in many provinces from about 15 May to 15 October, so check the forest-fire rules for the region before you go.

  3. Las Caldas Villa Termal (Blau)

    · Las Caldas (Oviedo)

    A historic thermal bath complex near Oviedo, including the Acuaxana center with thermal pools, a jacuzzi and saunas, alongside the “Roman Baths” therapy area. One of the largest mineral-water centers in northern Spain.

    My tip

    Swimwear and swim caps are required in the pools; book the water circuit for a morning slot on weekdays to avoid crowds, and ask about private sessions in the Roman baths area.

  4. Café Dindurra

    · Gijón

    The oldest café in Gijón, opened in 1901 on Begoña avenue beside the Jovellanos Theatre. With its modernist decoration and later Art Deco, it was the city’s literary and political salon, and a meeting place for writers and theater people through the 20th century.

    My tip

    Coffee with cheesecake or a “tostada” in the morning, or tea in the afternoon. Weekday mornings are quieter; service slows at peak times.

  5. Camilo de Blas

    · Oviedo

    A historic confectionery founded by Camilo de Blas in León in the late 19th century, moved to Oviedo in 1914, and still on Jovellanos street with its original façade and wooden shelves. Here the “Carbayón” sweet, symbol of Oviedo, made of almonds and pastry, was born.

    My tip

    Buy a “carbayón” and sit at one of the few tables with a coffee, or try the house ice cream in summer. Go in the morning before items sell out.

  6. Lagos de Covadonga – Buferrera

    · Cangas de Onís

    The glacial lakes Enol and Ercina in the heart of the Picos de Europa, among green pastures, cows and majestic peaks. An easy loop around the two lakes and picnic areas.

    Easy to reach
    A bus from Cangas de Onís in season, or by car outside it to the Buferrera parking. Easy walk; almost no shade.
    Barbecue
    Not allowed: no fires or barbecues at all; picnic with ready food only.

    My tip

    Private cars are banned in peak seasons (summer and holidays), and access is by regular bus from Cangas de Onís. Café and toilets near Lake Ercina. And take your waste back with you.

Services

1
  1. Instituto Oftalmológico Fernández-Vega

    · Oviedo

    A family eye-care institution in Oviedo since the 19th century, specializing in retina, cornea, cataract and refractive surgery. It is one of the best-known eye centers in Spain, and patients from outside Spain come for the delicate cases.

    My tip

    Book in advance and set aside a full day for tests, as waiting between departments can be long; send your reports translated. Payment is private, and Oviedo is reached by plane or train from Madrid.

Chapter Three

When to go to Asturias

My view in brief: June to September (mild, 20–25°). Pick a month to see its weather and events.

Among my best months An event or holidayBars: lowest and highest temperature

June13° to 21°

Pleasant (13–21°C). We recommend walking in the Picos de Europa mountains and the Cares Gorge.

No events listed in June. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.

Chapter Four

Where to stay in Asturias

Hotels I recommend in Asturias

  • Eurostars Hotel de la Reconquista ★★★★★
  • Parador de Gijón Molino Viejo ★★★

Chapter Five

What to bring home

What deserves to come home with you from Asturias: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.

  • DOP

    Cabrales cheese

    Queso Cabrales DOP

    A strong, pungent blue cheese made from cow's milk or a mix of sheep's and goat's milk, aged in the natural caves of the “Picos de Europa” mountains; an experience for lovers of strong cheeses.

  • DOP

    Protected Asturian cheeses

    Afuega'l Pitu, Gamonéu y Casín DOP

    “Afuega'l Pitu” is a sour, cone-shaped cheese that may be flavoured with paprika; “Gamonéu” is a mild smoked cheese with a blue touch; and “Casín” is one of the oldest Spanish cheeses, with a strong, pasty texture.

  • IGP

    Asturian beans

    Faba Asturiana IGP

    Large, creamy white beans, the base of “fabada” (which contains pork, so it is ruled out); buy them dry and cook them with clams as “fabes con almejas”.

  • Oviedo's sweet

    Carbayones

    Oviedo's symbolic sweet: flaky pastry filled with almond cream and topped with lemon sugar, made famous by Camilo de Blas since the 1920s.

  • Moscovita biscuits

    Moscovitas

    A thin almond-and-chocolate biscuit from Rialto in Oviedo, a perfect gift that travels well.

  • Burnt rice pudding

    Arroz con leche requemao

    The most famous Asturian dessert: creamy rice pudding made with milk, its top caramelised by burning the sugar.

Chapter Six

Getting around Asturias

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Last reviewed1 October 2026