My tip“In 2026 the CO-4 road is closed to private cars on managed days: Easter holiday, most of April, weekends in May, and daily from 1 June to 18 October (except 6 June, 25 July and 8 September), then 24, 25 and 31 October, 1–2 November and 1–8 December. On these days, go up by ALSA bus from the transfer car parks (Cangas de Onís, El Bosque, Muñigu, Repelao, El Peregrino) at €3 per car park for the whole day; the ticket is €9 for adults and €3.5 for children aged 4–11, and free under 3; the first bus is at 8:00 and the last ascent at 17:45 (16:00 from October). Book in advance at alsa.es or buslagoscovadonga.es. The road to the shrine itself is always open. The best times, from May to October, are early in the morning; fog suddenly covers the lakes, so check the webcams and bring a jacket and an umbrella even in summer.”
In the high Picos de Europa, at an altitude of about 1100 meters, the glacial lakes Enol and Ercina lie among green pastures where cows graze, under towering limestone peaks. They are among the most beautiful natural scenes in Spain. The Mirador de la Reina on the climb road overlooks them with a panoramic view down to the sea, and the Mirador de Entrelagos shows both together. From the car park, an easy loop (about 5 km and two hours) passes the two lakes, the old Buferrera mines and the Pedro Pidal visitor center. It suits families and children. At the foot of the road are the Real Sitio de Covadonga and the sacred cave, which in the Spanish story is linked to the Battle of Covadonga in 722 CE, considered the beginning of the “Reconquest”.
What to see
Lakes of Enol and Ercina · Mirador de la Reina · Mirador de Entrelagos · Buferrera mines and the Pedro Pidal visitor centre · the Holy Cave and Covadonga basilica · the Roman bridge in Cangas de Onís
Moderate effort
The CO-4 mountain road is 12 km long and is closed to cars on traffic-control days in 2026 (Easter, May holidays, 1 June–18 October), so take the shuttle bus from Cangas. A loop around the two lakes takes 1–1.5 hours with a gentle climb. One restaurant. Fog, cold and weak signal.
Address
Lagos de Covadonga, Cangas de Onís