Santander
Green coasts and wide sandy beaches around elegant Santander, ancient stone villages such as Santillana del Mar and Comillas, Cabárceno park where elephants and bears live almost free in an old mine, and the Fuente Dé cable car in the heart of the Picos de Europa.
- When to go
- June to September
- How long you need
- 4–6 days
- For whom
- Families with children, and couples
Chapter One
The story of Santander
Capital of coastal Cantabria, which never submitted to Islamic rule, and which became a royal summer resort in the early 20th century (Palacio de la Magdalena). Nearby is the “Altamira” cave, with paintings dating back to the Paleolithic era.
Figures of Santander
- Around 1450–1510
Juan de la Cosa
A sailor and map-maker from Santoña, who drew the oldest known map showing the New World in 1500.
- 1831–1888
Marcelino Sanz de Sautuola
An amateur archaeologist from Santander who discovered the cave paintings of Altamira in 1879.
- 1833–1906
José María de Pereda
A novelist born in Polanco, Cantabria, who wrote about the lives of its people.
- 1856–1912
Marcelino Menéndez Pelayo
A historian of Spanish literature, born in Santander; his library there is open to visitors.
Chapter Two
Places in Santander
85 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
Heritage and monuments
11Palacio de la Magdalena
A summer palace built by the people of Santander for King Alfonso XIII (1912) on a green peninsula between the sea and the bay; its wide garden has seals and penguins.
My tip
The garden is free and is enough in itself; a small tourist train runs around it, and the palace visit is a guided tour with limited times.
Cueva El Soplao
· Celis
Discovered by zinc and lead miners in the 20th century, and world-famous for its density of “asymmetric stalactites” (the eccentrics), which grow in every direction, defying gravity. You enter by the old mine train.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- A winding mountain road (20 min) from Cabezón/Celis to a car park beside the entrance. The standard tour is on prepared walkways, ~1 hour, temperature 11° inside. Restaurant on site. Fog is common on the road.
My tip
Photography is prohibited inside; book a specific time online. The temperature is 12°, so bring a jacket.
Centro Botín
The building by architect Renzo Piano, suspended above Santander bay (2017), with a facade of 280,000 glossy ceramic pieces. World-class art exhibitions, and free terraces and platforms with sea views.
My tip
An hour to two hours; the upper terraces are free; next to the Jardines de Pereda.
Museo de Altamira
· Santillana del Mar
A facsimile of the Altamira cave and its coloured bulls, painted about 36,000 years ago: the first rock art discovered in the world, known as the “Sistine Chapel of ancient art”.
My tip
Closed on Mondays; admission is free on Saturday afternoons and Sunday mornings, and the ticket sets the time for entering the replica cave.
Cueva de El Castillo
· Puente Viesgo
One of the oldest rock art sites in the world: one of its red markings has been dated to more than 40,000 years ago, which makes it likely that some are the work of Neanderthals. It features original handprints and animal figures, not copies, and is listed as World Heritage.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- By car to a car park on Monte Castillo above Puente Viesgo, then a short climb. Numbers are limited—book weeks ahead. Damp, slippery floor and steps; constant cold temperature. Not suitable for strollers.
My tip
Groups are small and tickets limited, so book weeks ahead; the tour is in Spanish and photography is prohibited.
Cueva de Covalanas
· Ramales de la Victoria
A cave listed as World Heritage as part of “Cave Art of Northern Spain”, known as the “Cave of the Red Deer” for its red ochre dot paintings (around 20,000 years old). It is visited in its original form, not a replica.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- From a car park on the road, a 650 m climb up a steep path, 15–20 min. Booking essential and numbers very limited. No services.
My tip
Numbers are very limited — book early; the climb is about a kilometre from the car park. Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
Restaurants and cafés
26El Serbal
A Michelin-starred restaurant on El Sardinero beach, with a spacious dining room overlooking the sea and refined Cantabrian cooking.
- The finest experience in Santander, with a sea view. Suits special occasions and entertaining important guests.
TryTasting menu with pork-free alternatives, Cantabrian fish, Santoña anchovies, desserts
Booking essential · Suits couples and business meetings
La Bombi
A long-established seafood restaurant in central Santander, displaying fresh fish and shellfish at the entrance.
- The classic address for seafood in the city; the owner personally oversees the recommendations.
TrySea clams (almejas), baked fish of the day, squid rings (rabas), solomillo
Booking essential · Suits families and children and business meetings
Las Redes
A restaurant under the arcades of San Vicente de la Barquera, the harbour guarded by a castle and stone bridge, with the Picos de Europa peaks behind it.
- One of the highest-rated restaurants in town. Fish and seafood from the port auction, cooked with skill.
TryGrilled fish of the day, seafood rice, squid, Cantabrian anchovies
Booking advised · Suits families and children and couples
El Remedio
An isolated restaurant beside the El Remedio hermitage on a cliff above the sea near Comillas, one of the most beautiful dining spots in northern Spain.
- The view of the ocean alone is worth the trip, and the kitchen serves fish and seafood with a modern touch. Book a table by the window.
TryFish of the day, seafood rice, squid, modern desserts
Booking essential · Suits couples and families and children
Gran Duque
A restaurant in a traditional stone house in the medieval town of Santillana del Mar, near the Altamira caves.
- One of the highest-rated restaurants in Santillana, away from the tourist restaurants. Accomplished Cantabrian cooking.
TryCantabrian veal, fish of the day, mountain soup (pork-free on request), cheesecake
Booking advised · Suits families and children and couples
La Soldrería
A restaurant in Potes, the heart of the Liébana valley at the foot of the Picos de Europa, serving valley cooking with a contemporary touch.
- The highest-rated restaurant in Potes, with thousands of reviews. Local produce from mountain meats and Liébana cheeses.
TryLiébana veal, lamb, Picón and smoked cheeses, modern desserts
Booking essential · Suits couples and families and children
Nature and walks
15Playa del Sardinero
Santander’s aristocratic beach, with its seafront promenade, casino and “Belle Époque” hotels; wide golden sands that extend to the Jardines de Piquío.
My tip
Combine it with the Palacio de la Magdalena on foot; the best time is the morning.
Posada Herrán
· Herrán (Santillana del Mar)
A rural Cantabrian house with a large garden among green meadows near Santillana del Mar, very quiet and clean.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- In a rural district near Santillana del Mar, with a paved road to the door and a private car park. Santillana (restaurants, pharmacy) is 5 min away, and Torrelavega (hospital and large shops) is 15 min away. Few buses, so a car is essential.
My tip
Near the Cabárceno nature zoo and the Museo de Altamira — two ideal days for children.
Playa de Somo
· Somo (Ribamontán al Mar)
A wide sandy beach stretching for kilometres along the eastern shore of Santander bay, overlooking the city and the mountains; easily reached by boat from Santander in 30 minutes. Shallow water near the edge and waves that beginner surfers enjoy. The water is cold (19–21° in summer).
My tip
Take the “lancha” boat from Santander harbour (a fun trip for children). There are lifeguards, showers, restaurants and surf schools for beginners. Swim between the flags.
Potes – Torre del Infantado
· Potes
Capital of the Liébana valley where two rivers meet, a town of stone bridges and houses with wooden balconies, dominated by the Torre del Infantado (15th century), which displays the manuscripts of the “Beato de Liébana”; nearby is the Santo Toribio monastery.
What to see
Medieval Torre del Infantado (exhibition centre) · stone bridges over the Deva river · the weekly Monday market · the “Fuente Dé” cable car up to the peaks of the Picos de Europa · the passages of the “La Hermida” gorge
- Easy to reach
- ALSA bus from Santander (two and a half hours, few trips) or by car through the winding La Hermida gorge; car parks at the entrance, and the town is flat. Full services. Climb the tower by an indoor staircase.
My tip
The weekly Monday market is lively. Go up to the tower roof for the view. A natural stop on the way to Fuente Dé (25 min).
Mogrovejo (Liébana)
· Mogrovejo
A stone village ranked among Spain’s most beautiful, topped by a medieval tower, with the towering rock wall of the Picos de Europa behind it, in the Liébana valley, which holds the Santo Toribio monastery, where Beato wrote his famous commentary in the 8th century.
What to see
The medieval tower · view of the Picos de Europa wall · stone houses · the “Fuente Dé” cable car · the nearby village of Potes
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car only; the village is small. Services in Potes (10 min).
My tip
Combine it with the Fuente Dé cable car and the town of Potes in one day.
Paseo de Pereda y Jardines de Pereda
Santander’s finest seafront: 19th-century houses with glass-fronted balconies and gardens overlooking the bay, stretching to Puerto Chico and the boat station.
My tip
A 30–60 minute walk; combine it with Centro Botín and the Los Reginas boats.
Day trips
7Santillana del Mar
· Santillana del Mar
One of Spain’s most beautiful villages: paved stone streets and noble houses with wooden balconies and family coats of arms, around a Romanesque church from the 12th century.
What to see
Main street and noble palaces · Plaza Ramón Pelayo · Romanesque collegiate church · Altamira museum and cave replica · Santillana zoo
- How to get there
- Bus from Santander (≈45 min) — by car ≈30 min
- Easy to reach
- Buses from Santander (relatively few) or a car with paid parking at the entrance. Stone lanes that slope slightly and are not comfortable for strollers. Many restaurants and shops.
My tip
30 minutes from Santander; visit in the morning before the crowds and combine it with the Altamira museum.
El Capricho de Gaudí (Comillas)
· Comillas
One of Gaudí’s few works outside Catalonia: a villa clad in ceramics and sunflowers, influenced by the Mudéjar style of Andalusian origin, in the aristocratic town of Comillas.
What to see
El Capricho villa and its ceramic-clad tower · Sobrellano Palace · Pontifical University · the old square · Comillas beach and Oyambre natural park
- How to get there
- Bus from Santander (≈1 hour) — by car ≈45 min
- Easy to reach
- Buses from Santander or a car; parking in the town, then a short climb. The building has an indoor staircase. Restaurants in Comillas. Book in summer.
My tip
Book ahead in summer, then stroll around Comillas and Sobrellano Palace.
San Vicente de la Barquera
· San Vicente de la Barquera
A fishing town at the mouth of a river, with a long stone bridge, a castle and a Gothic church on the hill, and behind it the snow-capped peaks of the Picos de Europa in winter and spring. One of the loveliest scenes on the Cantabrian coast.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- One hour by car from Santander; car parks at the harbour, and the climb to the castle is short.
My tip
The best view of the town with the mountains is from the western end of the bridge, in the morning. The long Merón beach suits family surfing lessons.
Bárcena Mayor
· Bárcena Mayor
Cantabria’s oldest and best-preserved village: stone houses with wooden balconies and paved lanes on the bank of the Argonza river, inside the Saja-Besaya reserve, surrounded by beech and oak forests.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- One hour by car from Santander; paid car park at the village entrance, then walking on uneven stony ground.
My tip
It gets crowded at summer weekends, so go in the morning. An easy path along the riverbank suits children. The road to it is mountainous and narrow at the end.
Castro Urdiales
· Castro Urdiales
A seaside town on the border with the Basque Country, dominated by the Gothic church of Santa María, the castle-lighthouse and the medieval bridge over the harbour. A long seafront promenade and beaches in the heart of the town.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- 30 min by car from Bilbao and an hour from Santander; the promenade is flat and the old town a gentle climb.
My tip
It lies halfway between Bilbao and Santander, so it makes a good stop. Go up to the church square for the view of the harbour.
Carmona (Valle de Cabuérniga)
· Carmona
A traditional mountain village of stone houses and wide wooden balconies, known for making the wooden clogs called “albarcas”. Surrounded by pastures and valleys, with a splendid tourist road passing through them.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- One hour by car from Santander; car park at the village entrance and short uphill lanes.
My tip
A quiet, short visit; combine it with Bárcena Mayor and the source of the Saja river in one day. Shops are few, so bring your own food.
Experiences and family
12Parque de la Naturaleza de Cabárceno
· Obregón
A unique open-air zoo in a former iron mine spanning 750 hectares, where you drive your car among elephants, bears and giraffes, with a cable car passing overhead.
My tip
Set aside a full day and go by car; the cable car is included in the ticket.
Teleférico de Fuente Dé
· Camaleño
A cable car that climbs 753 metres vertically in under 4 minutes up a towering rock face to the “El Cable” platform at 1823 metres, in the heart of the Picos de Europa — the area where the Pelayo and Covadonga movement began.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Car park at the lower station in Fuente Dé; 4 min climb by cable car. Two hours’ wait in summer. At the top, cold and fog. Few buses.
My tip
Book your ticket online in advance and choose the first morning slot, before the clouds come up; easy walking paths at the top and a café.
Faro del Caballo (Santoña)
· Santoña
An abandoned lighthouse at the foot of the Monte Buciero cliff, reached by about 760 steps carved into the rock above turquoise water. One of Cantabria’s most famous and thrilling routes.
- Hard going · needs a car
- About 45 min by car from Santander; a mountain hike of an hour and a half from Santoña, then 760 steps down and up; sports shoes and water essential.
My tip
Entry is free but online booking is compulsory in season via Santoña town council (a maximum number of visitors every two hours). The full route takes 3–4 hours; not suitable for young children. An easier alternative: a boat or kayak trip from Santoña.
Surf School Cantabra
· Somo
Playa de Somo, facing Santander bay, is one of Spain’s oldest surfing spots, and this school is among the country’s first surf schools. Kilometres of sand and gentle waves, ideal for learning.
My tip
Somo is reachable by ferry from central Santander in 30 minutes; the weekly courses suit families and teenagers.
Estación de Esquí y Montaña Alto Campoo
· Brañavieja
A Cantabrian resort on the slopes of the peak “Tres Mares”, whose waters flow to three seas: the Cantabrian, the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. The season runs from December to March, with varied slopes and wide car parks where children play in the snow directly.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- In Brañavieja, reached by a mountain road from Reinosa (25 min); parking at the base. Snow chains. Reinosa for wider services. Limited seasonal bus.
My tip
Saturdays are very crowded, so choose weekdays; the wind can sometimes stop the lifts.
BeeXperience – Colmenares de Vendejo
· Cabezón de Liébana
A roughly two-hour experience in the Liébana valley that tells the history of beekeeping in the region and shows you a beekeeper’s day in the field. Safety is guaranteed, as there is no direct contact with the bees, and it ends with tasting honey varieties and honeydew honey.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car only; in the Liébana valley. Services in Potes.
My tip
By advance booking (+34 606 50 61 73), daily in the morning. Excellent for families and suitable for children from 5 years old. Can be combined with Potes and the Fuente Dé cable car.
Mosques and halal
1Mezquita de Santander
The community prayer hall in Santander, which hosts the prayers and the two Eids.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually between 13:30 and 14:30, roughly (it may be delayed to 15:00 in summer); confirm with the mosque beforehand. A small mosque; confirm the Friday time.
Where to stay
7Gran Hotel Sardinero
- One of the city's best hotels
A classic hotel in Plaza de Italia, directly opposite El Sardinero beach.
My tip
Ask for a room with a sea view.
Area CAMPER PARK SANTILLANA DEL MAR
· Santillana del Mar
A modern service area overlooking the medieval village of Santillana del Mar, one of Spain’s most beautiful villages, minutes from the Museo de Altamira and its prehistoric engravings.
My tip
The system is fully automatic; keep the barcode ticket, as it is needed for water, emptying and re-entry.
Eurostars Hotel Real
- I stayed here in 2023
- Romantic
A historic five-star luxury hotel from 1917 on a hill overlooking Santander bay, known for its sea views and its seawater treatment centre.
Hotel Bahía
- One of the city's best hotels
In the heart of Santander, facing the bay near the cathedral and the Centro Botín.
My tip
Book parking in advance; close to the ferry port.
Parador de Santillana Gil Blas
· Santillana del Mar
A noble 15th-century house on the main square of the stone village of Santillana del Mar, one of Spain’s most beautiful villages, near the Altamira caves. Small and cosy, with rustic furniture.
My tip
The village is closed to cars, so ask the hotel about access; some rooms are small and dark, and visit the Altamira museum (the cave replica) two minutes away by car.
Le Petit Boutique Hotel
- Boutique
A small, elegant boutique hotel near El Sardinero beach and the casino. Personal service and excellent breakfast at reasonable prices.
My tip
The rooms are relatively small; suits a couple or a small family, and the beach is a few minutes’ walk away.
Shopping
2Mercado de la Esperanza
A historic iron market (1904) behind the town hall, with a full floor for fish and Cantabrian seafood. A market used by residents rather than tourists.
My tip
In the morning; on Wednesdays there is a popular clothes market behind it; half an hour.
Mercado del Este
A classic 19th-century market restored as a food hall, with shops selling local products and stalls serving pintxos. Its basement houses a prehistory museum.
My tip
A quick spot for a light meal; the toilet costs a nominal fee; ask whether dishes are pork-free.
Relaxation
4Nacimiento del Ebro (Fontibre)
· Fontibre
The source of Spain’s longest river, inside a small shaded park with paths, picnic tables, a café and a restaurant. A pleasant stop for a family on their way through Cantabria.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car near Reinosa (A-67); the car park adjoins the garden. Plenty of shade.
- Barbecue
- Not allowed: no fires or barbecues at all; picnic with ready food only.
My tip
The walk is short (15 minutes); combine it with Reinosa or the Ebro reservoir. Free. And take your rubbish with you.
Secuoyas del Monte Cabezón
· Cabezón de la Sal
A forest of giant sequoias planted in the forties, where visitors wander among the trunks as if they were in California. Coloured trails and open spaces for quiet strolls.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car near Cabezón de la Sal (A-8); short walk from the car park. Dense shade.
- Barbecue
- Not allowed: no fires or barbecues at all; picnic with ready food only.
My tip
The nearby car park has closed; parking is about 400 m away. Crowded in August; autumn is better. And take your rubbish with you.
Castilla Termal Solares
· Solares
A historic hotel-spa on the Solares hot springs near Santander, with a “Roman bath” route that includes a steam room, exfoliation, and hot and cold pools. A splendid building with an old-style character.
My tip
Make sure your booking includes spa entry, not just the pool; it gets crowded at weekends, so book the route by phone in advance.
Gran Hotel Balneario de Puente Viesgo
· Puente Viesgo
An elegant thermal hotel in the green Pas river valley in Cantabria, with two spas and gardens, praised by many families. Close to the prehistoric El Castillo caves.
My tip
Very suitable for families with children; the spa relies on warm pools more than saunas, and visit El Castillo cave with advance booking.
Chapter Three
When to go to Santander
My view in brief: June to September. Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holiday
January
No events listed in January. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Four
Where to stay in Santander
From my own stays
- Eurostars Hotel Real
I stayed here in 2023★★★★★
A historic five-star luxury hotel from 1917 on a hill overlooking Santander bay, known for its sea views and its seawater treatment centre.
Hotels I recommend in Santander
- Gran Hotel Sardinero ★★★★
- Hotel Bahía ★★★★
- Area CAMPER PARK SANTILLANA DEL MAR
Chapter Five
What to bring home
What deserves to come home with you from Santander: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
Santoña anchovies
Anchoas de SantoñaCantabrian spring anchovies, salted and aged by hand, considered among the finest anchovies in the world, sold tinned in olive oil.
- IGP
Pasiego sobao
Sobao Pasiego IGPA dense, buttery sponge cake from the Pas valley, made with butter rather than pork lard.
- IGP
Pasiega quesada
Quesada Pasiega IGPA cake of fresh cheese, butter and eggs, flavoured with lemon and cinnamon.
- DOP
Protected Cantabrian cheeses
Quesucos de Liébana, Picón Bejes-Tresviso y Queso Nata de Cantabria DOP“Picón”, a strong blue cheese matured in the caves of the Picos de Europa; “Quesucos”, small smoked cheeses; and “Queso Nata”, a smooth creamy cheese.
- DOP
Liébana honey
Miel de Liébana DOPDark mountain honey from the Liébana valley, mostly from heather and oak.
Chapter Six
Getting around Santander
Apps that work here
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Last reviewed1 October 2026