King of Zaragoza who built the Palacio de la AljaferĂa and named it âDar al-Sururâ (House of Joy).
d. 1085
al-Mu'taman
Zaragozaâs king and mathematician, who wrote the âBook of Completionâ on geometry.
1085â1138
Avempace (Ibn Bajja)
Philosopher, physician and musician born in Zaragoza, author of âRegimen of the Solitaryâ, who died in Fez.
1746â1828
Francisco de Goya
Born in Fuendetodos in the province of Zaragoza (his birthplace is now a museum), he painted domes in the BasĂlica del Pilar, and in the city there is the âGoya Museumâ.
Chapter Two
Ready-made trips
1 hour-by-hour day plan and 2 walking routes I drew myself in Zaragoza, with the places to pray and eat where I marked them.
53 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
Heritage and monuments
16
01
Palacio de la AljaferĂa
Originally a mosque (confirmed)
A palace built by Abu Ja'far Ahmad al-Muqtadir bi-llah of the Banu Hud, kings of the Zaragoza taifa, in the 5th century AH/11th century CE, and named âQasr al-Sururâ (Palace of Joy). It is the most outstanding surviving architecture of the Taifa era, with its interlaced lobed arches and small octagonal mihrab. Today it houses the Aragon parliament.
My tip
Free on the first Sunday of each month; allow an hour and a half, and there is a security check because it is the seat of parliament.
An audio guide is available in several languages (including one for children), and photography is not allowed inside; it closes at midday between 14:30 and 16:00.
The origin of the cityâs own name (Calatayud = Qal'at Ayyub), which tradition attributes to Ayyub ibn Habib al-Lakhmi, son of Musa ibn Nusayrâs sister. A complex of five forts and walls from the 9th century, among the oldest surviving Islamic fortifications in the Upper March.
Moderate effort
By train from Zaragoza/Madrid to Calatayud, then 20 minutes to the MorerĂa quarter. The climb to the fortress takes 20â30 minutes on steep dirt tracks with no shade or services; not suitable for strollers or the elderly. Services in town.
My tip
The site is free to visit; the climb starts from the old MorerĂa quarter, and the information boards are in Spanish only.
An Aragonese town whose people were Moriscos. There, in 1884, workers demolishing an old house found a hidden chest under a false floor: manuscripts in Arabic and in âaljamiadoâ (Romance written in Arabic script), hidden by their owners before the expulsion. This âAlmonacid treasureâ became the basis of modern aljamiado studies.
The town itself is simple and has no manuscripts museum; its value is symbolic, and the manuscripts are today kept in Madrid (the TomĂĄs Navarro TomĂĄs Library).
The oldest licensed restaurant in Spain (since 1825), in the heart of the old quarter, with historic 19th-century dining rooms and Aragonese cooking based on vegetables from the fields of the Ebro river.
A taste of history and a table in one: an elegant classic dining room that suits families and business people, and the restaurant is a benchmark for Aragonese cooking in the city.
TryTernasco de AragĂłn (young lamb), cooked artichokes, soup of the season, torrija for dessert
Booking advised · Suits families and children, business meetings and couples
A family restaurant since 1970 with a Michelin star, run by the chef Marisa BarbiĂĄn and her husband, with inventive tasting menus built on Aragon produce.
The highest-end fine dining in Zaragoza; suited to private occasions and official hospitality, with personal service from the owners.
TryThe short tasting menu, with any dish containing pork or alcohol to be replaced if requested in advance; seasonal fish dishes; the chefâs desserts.
Booking essential · Suits couples and business meetings
A traditional Aragonese grill near the cathedral that cooks meat over vine-shoot embers (sarmientos), the popular grilling method in the Ebro valley.
The best choice in the city for grill lovers: Aragon lamb over embers and a generous daily menu at a moderate price. Booking is essential because of its popularity.
TryTernasco de AragĂłn grilled over embers, lamb chops, veal steak, roasted peppers, cod
Booking essential · Suits families and children and friends and groups
A fortified stone town on a hill in the âCinco Villasâ of Aragon, where Ferdinand the Catholic was born in 1452 in the Sada palace; Granada fell at his and Isabellaâs hands. Its paved lanes and walls are preserved almost as they were.
What to see
Palacio de Sada, birthplace of Ferdinand the Catholic, and its interpretation center · the Jewish quarter and its lanes · the castle remains, the Torre del Homenaje and its view · the town hall square and the old market · the paved stone lanes
Moderate effort · needs a car
By car (an hour and a half from Pamplona); parking is at the foot of the town, and the paved lanes are very steep up to the palace and the church (10â15 minutes). Hard for strollers and the elderly. Restaurants and restrooms in town.
My tip
Start at the Palacio de Sada (tourist office) for a guided walk around the town. An hour and a half from Pamplona. You can stay overnight at the townâs Parador.
Daroca (Daruqa) is one of the forts of the Andalusi Upper March, surrounded by a wall about 4 km long with more than 100 towers; the âPuerta Bajaâ, with its two crenellated towers and the coat of arms of Charles V, is the townâs icon and the starting point of the wall route.
What to see
The Puerta Baja with its two towers · the walls and their towers on the hills · the Puerta Alta · the âMinaâ water mine (16th century) · the Colegiata and the main street
Easy to reach
Buses from Zaragoza; the Puerta Baja is at the end of the flat main street. Full services.
My tip
Go in through the gate on a guided tour to see the city model, then walk the main street to the Puerta Alta.
By car along a narrow winding road to the sanctuary parking (1620 m), where there is a restaurant. Trails to the summit are hard (3â4 hours); walking near the sanctuary is easy. Cold, wind and fog.
My tip
Start at the Santuario de la Virgen del Moncayo (1620 m), where there is parking and a restaurant; the most beautiful seasons are autumn and late spring.
A small village rated among âthe most beautiful villages in Spainâ. Nearby is a limestone wall from which water falls like rain onto green moss amid dry steppe; above the village stand the ruins of an old fort.
What to see
âAguallueveâ, where water drips from the moss-covered limestone wall · the castle ruins · the watchtower on the hill · the restored stone lanes
Moderate effort · needs a car
By car to the village parking, then a 20-minute walk (40 there and back) on a dirt path with ups and downs. Donât follow the navigation to the upper road. No services at the rock.
My tip
The walk from the village to the rock takes about 20 minutes. Don't follow Google Maps to the upper road; leave the car in the village car park instead.
The largest natural saline lake in Western Europe, where tens of thousands of migrating cranes land in autumn and winter. Watching them fly at sunset is one of the greatest natural sights in Spain.
Easy to reach · needs a car
An hour and 30 minutes from Zaragoza; the visitor center is on the road, with observation points close to the parking.
My tip
Best from November to February at dawn or dusk. The visitor centre opens at weekends and runs car tours with binoculars; wear warm clothes.
A green oasis in the dry plains of Aragon: more than 25 waterfalls, the most famous of them 50 m high, the âCola de Caballoâ (Horsetail), behind which you walk inside the âCueva de Irisâ, plus the clear âEspejoâ lake, tunnels and bridges, and a raptor show. A loop of about 2â3 hours, suitable for all ages.
Moderate effort · needs a car
By car in practice (sometimes one bus a day from Zaragoza). Trail of about 4 km, 2.5â3 hours, with many steps and a slippery cave; hard for strollers and the elderly. Restaurants and restrooms at the entrance.
My tip
Buy tickets online and follow the blue line so you donât miss the lake. Spring and autumn are best, and you can picnic at the free parking. Two and a quarter hours from Madrid.
The largest freshwater aquarium in Europe, showing five great rivers: the Nile, the Mekong, the Amazon, the Murray-Darling and the Ebro, with crocodiles and giant arapaima fish.
My tip
The visit takes one to two hours; a good refuge from the summer heat.
A prayer room in Zaragozaâs old city, near the center.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually at around 13:30â14:30 (it may run to 15:00 in summer); check with the mosque beforehand. Information about it online is scarce; confirm the Friday times in advance.
A small boutique hotel in a quiet European style in the old quarter, a few steps from the Plaza del Pilar. It has apartments and rooms with an extra bed, and homemade sweets at breakfast.
My tip
They provide a free baby cot; book through their website for the best price.
A four-star hotel in a modernist building in the old quarter, a few minutesâ walk from the BasĂlica. Clean and quiet, with service that is well regarded.
My tip
The rooms are medium-sized. When booking, ask about pork-free breakfast alternatives.
A four-star hotel near Plaza de España and the old quarter, with a small rooftop pool overlooking the city. Its suites are spacious and some have a terrace.
My tip
The standard rooms need maintenance; the suites are the best value for families.
In summer order âhorchataâ, or âtorrijaâ with a ânegro y blancoâ coffee. Early mornings are crowded with office workers; late morning is calmer.
Thick hot chocolate with âchurrosâ, or coffee with a croissant. Come in the morning or the afternoon on weekdays; during the Pilar fiestas (October) it gets very crowded. Payment is often in cash.
A visitor center and picnic area in the forests of Moncayo, the highest peak of the Iberian range, between beech, oak and springs. From it, there are short, enjoyable trails for families.
Easy to reach · needs a car
By car about an hour and a quarter from Zaragoza via Tarazona; picnic tables near the center. Good shade.
Barbecue
Not allowed: no fires or barbecues at all; picnic with ready food only.
My tip
Mosquitoes are plentiful on some summer days. The centre often opens on holidays. And take your rubbish back with you.
A leisure complex south of Zaragoza with a restaurant, a large garden and a barbecue area that must be booked; it provides the coals and the grill for a fee per person.
Easy to reach · needs a car
By car, 15 minutes from central Zaragoza via the ring road Z-40. Parking, restrooms, bar.
Barbecue
Barbecuing is allowed with booking and a fee per person (private facility).
My tip
The fee is reportedly about 5 ⏠per person per day, and drinks are bought from the restaurant; book in advance (+34 976 56 06 62).
A spa in the remote Mesa valley in Aragon; its most famous feature is a thermal pool inside a natural cave. Reviews are split (3.7): the nature and the cave are wonderful, while the food and maintenance are weak.
My tip
Worth it for the cave pool; read the latest reviews before booking. Jaraba has two other spas (San Vicente and Serrano).
Among my best months An event or holidayBars: lowest and highest temperature
April8° to 20°
Spring (8â20°C). We recommend Parque del Agua Luis Buñuel.
Public holidayRegion-wide
Castilla y LeĂłn Day and Aragon Day
DĂa de Castilla y LeĂłn / San Jorge (AragĂłn)
2026: Thursday 23 April · 2027: Friday 23 April
Regional holiday in Castilla y LeĂłn (the Villalar commemoration) and in Aragon (Saint Georgeâs Day). It coincides with âSant Jordiâ in Barcelona (not a holiday there).
Chapter Five
Where to stay in Zaragoza
1
Centre (Paseo Independencia / Plaza del Pilar)
Centro (Paseo Independencia / Plaza del Pilar)
Near the BasĂlica del Pilar and the shops; from here you can walk to the Andalusi Palacio de la AljaferĂa (or take the tram or a taxi).
Alleys of bars and small restaurants, crowded until midnight; visit by day, and don't stay in them.
Hotels I recommend in Zaragoza
Hotel Palafox â â â â â
Hotel Reina Petronila â â â â â
Chapter Six
What to bring home
What deserves to come home with you from Zaragoza: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
Aragon fruit
Frutas de AragĂłn
Candied fruit (âconfitadasâ) coated in chocolate, the most famous gift from Zaragoza; its oldest maker is Fantoba, since 1856.
Pilar âcobblestoneâ sweets
Adoquines del Pilar
A large sugar sweet shaped like a paving stone, wrapped in paper printed with folk songs.
DOP
Olive oil
Aceite Sierra del Moncayo DOP
Oil from the âEmpeltreâ, âArbequinaâ and âNegralâ varieties; fruity and smooth, with an almond flavour.
DOP
Calanda peach
MelocotĂłn de Calanda DOP
Late yellow peach, bagged on the tree in a paper bag so it comes out sweet and fragrant; season SeptemberâOctober.
Borage and cardoon
Borraja y cardo
Aragonese vegetables: âborrajaâ (borage) and âcardoâ (cardoon), the cardoon in winter season, cooked with olive oil and almonds.
Guirlache
Roasted almond sweet with caramel and sesame, a traditional sweet common in the winter season.
Chapter Seven
Getting around Zaragoza
Zaragoza has one tram line that crosses the city from north to south through the centre, plus city buses. A rechargeable card, âTarjeta Busâ or âLazoâ, lowers the fare. From Delicias station to the centre takes about 10 minutes by taxi or bus. From the airport: bus 501 to the centre in about 30â40 minutes, or a taxi for about 25â30 euros. Taxis are available; ride-hailing apps are limited. Tips: the Andalusi Palacio de la AljaferĂa is a 20-minute walk from the centre, and the city is very windy in winter (the cierzo wind).