Huesca y Pirineos

Ordesa and Monte Perdido National Park: a glacial valley with towering rock walls and a chain of waterfalls up to the “Horsetail”, and medieval stone villages such as Torla and Aínsa. Walking in the meadows in summer, skiing at Formigal and Panticosa in winter.

When to go
June to October for nature, December to March for snow
How long you need
3–5 days
For whom
Walkers and lovers of wild nature, and active families
The stone rooftops of Aínsa, its church tower and the Pyrenees behind
Photo FrDr · CC BY-SA 4.0

On this page

Chapter One

The story of Huesca y Pirineos

“Huesca” was one of the cities of the Upper March. It was ruled by the Banu Amrus and the Banu Qasi, and held out until the king of Aragon took it in 1096 CE. To its north rise the Pyrenees, with their peaks and the “Ordesa” park, listed as a World Heritage Site.

Figures of Huesca y Pirineos

  1. 123–72 BCE

    Quintus Sertorius

    A Roman rebel general who made “Osca” (Huesca) his base, founded a school there for the sons of the notables, and was killed there.

  2. d. c. 812

    Amrus ibn Yusuf

    A muwallad commander from Huesca who governed Toledo and Zaragoza for the Umayyads, and to whom the “Battle of al-Hufra” in Toledo is attributed.

  3. 1086–1157

    Ramiro II el Monje

    King of Aragon, linked to the legend of the Bell of Huesca.

  4. 1846–1911

    Joaquín Costa

    A reformist thinker born in Monzón in the province of Huesca, and educated in Huesca.

Chapter Two

Places in Huesca y Pirineos

36 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.

Heritage and monuments

6
  1. Castillo de Loarre

    · Loarre

    The best preserved Romanesque castle in Europe, built in the 11th century on a cliff overlooking the plains of Huesca as a base for the northern kingdoms facing the Andalusi frontiers. It appeared in several films, including “Kingdom of Heaven”.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    40 min by car from Huesca; short walk from the car park to the castle, with steps inside.

    My tip

    A cheap ticket is bought at the visitor centre; 1.5 hours is enough. Very suitable for children. A café and a small restaurant on site.

  2. Cueva de las Güixas

    · Villanúa

    A cave in the Aragón valley of the Pyrenees, inhabited by people since the Neolithic and linked to legends of the “witches” (güixas); it is home to a protected bat colony. An easy visit, suitable for children.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    Car park at the edge of Villanúa; a short walk to the entrance, and the tour is easy with a few steps. Services in the town.

    My tip

    The tour takes about 45 minutes; wear a jacket, as the inside is cold. Closing days vary — check before you go.

  3. Monasterio de San Juan de la Peña

    · Botaya (Jaca)

    An old monastery carved beneath a giant rock, the burial place of the first kings of Aragon, with a 17th-century new monastery above it that houses an interpretation centre. The road to it passes through splendid pine forests.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    30 min by car from Jaca; car parks at the new monastery, and a shuttle bus in season.

    My tip

    Buy the ticket at the new monastery at the top, then go down by shuttle bus or car to the old monastery. The audio guide is good.

  4. Estación Internacional de Canfranc

    · Canfranc-Estación

    A huge railway station from the 1920s, deep in the Pyrenees on the French border and 240 metres long, linked to stories of gold and espionage in the Second World War. Today it is a luxury hotel.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    30 min by car from Jaca, or by regional train from Zaragoza; the station is flat.

    My tip

    Free entry is limited to part of the hall; for guided tours book through the Canfranc tourist office (usually in Spanish). Combine it with the Astún valley or the town of Jaca.

  5. Ciudadela de Jaca (Castillo de San Pedro)

    · Jaca

    A 16th-century pentagonal fortress surrounded by a grassy moat where deer graze, one of the best preserved military fortresses in Spain. Inside is a museum of miniature soldiers that children love.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    1 hour and 10 minutes from Huesca; in the centre of Jaca with a car park nearby.

    My tip

    Visit with a ticket; it closes at midday for a break. 1 to 1.5 hours. The town of Jaca is a good base for the Aragonese Pyrenees.

  6. Catedral de Huesca

    · Huesca

    • Originally a mosque (confirmed)

    The mosque of Huesca was converted into a cathedral after the city fell in 1096 CE, and it was used until the Gothic cathedral was built on its site starting in 1273 CE. Nothing of it remains visible.

    My tip

    The ticket includes the museum and the tower; note the marble altarpiece by Damián Forment.

Nature and walks

9
  1. Aínsa – Plaza Mayor y casco medieval

    · Aínsa

    One of the most beautiful villages in Spain: a stone town from the 11th century on a hill at the confluence of the Cinca and Ara rivers, with an arcaded main square, a castle and walls, and the Pyrenean peaks behind. It was the capital of the first Christian kingdom, Sobrarbe, facing the Andalusi Upper March.

    What to see

    The paved main square with its arcades · the castle, its walls and environmental centre · the stone alleys · the Mediano reservoir and the view of Peña Montañesa · the nearby Ordesa and Monte Perdido park

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    Driving is the practical choice (few buses from Barbastro). Park at the castle car park (about 4 €) and the square is a few minutes away on flat paved ground. The road from the new town to the old one is a steep climb if you walk. Restaurants and toilets available.

    My tip

    Park by the castle (about 4 euros per day). The best time is the evening, when the alleys are lit. An excellent base for Ordesa and Alquézar.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  2. Alquézar – Colegiata de Santa María

    · Alquézar

    A village suspended above the Vero river gorge in the Sierra de Guara; its name comes from the Arabic “al-Qasr”. Khalaf ibn Rashid founded it as a castle in the 9th century on the frontier of the Upper March; it later became a fortified collegiate church that crowns the village. One of the most beautiful villages in Spain.

    What to see

    The alleys hanging over the gorge · the fortress built by the Muslims, “al-Qasr”, and the collegiate church inside it · the wooden walkways hung over the Vero river · the nearby rock-art caves · the Sierra de Guara trails

    Moderate effort · needs a car
    By car only; paid car park at the village entrance, then paved sloping alleys, 10–15 min uphill to the church. The wooden walkways over the Vero river are a two-hour circular route with hundreds of steps; not suitable for pushchairs or anyone afraid of heights. Very hot in summer.

    My tip

    Entry is about 3 euros with a guided tour. Don't miss the wooden walkways over the Vero river (2 hours, circular). The alleys are steep — comfortable shoes.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  3. Casas rurales la Ribera Ordesa

    · Escalona

    Independent stone country houses with full kitchens on the edge of Ordesa National Park in the Aragonese Pyrenees.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    In Escalona on the A-138 road near Aínsa (10 min), where the shops and pharmacy are. A car is essential. Note: the Ordesa valley road from Torla is closed to cars in summer, at Easter and on some holidays, and a paid shuttle bus is used.

    My tip

    The private kitchen makes halal cooking easy; visit the Añisclo valley and the medieval town of Aínsa nearby.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  4. Ordesa – Cola de Caballo

    · Torla-Ordesa

    The most famous trail in the Spanish Pyrenees: it climbs the Ordesa valley between towering rock walls and successive waterfalls to the Cola de Caballo waterfall below Monte Perdido.

    Moderate effort · needs a car
    In summer, at Easter and in autumn, cars are not allowed in and a bus runs from Torla to the Pradera de Ordesa. Return trip.
    Distance
    17 km · 500 m climb · 6 hours

    My tip

    The first sections up to the El Estrecho waterfall are easy and suitable for young children, if the full trip is long.

  5. Cañón de Añisclo (San Úrbez – Fuen Blanca)

    · Fanlo / Escalona

    A deep, narrow gorge in Ordesa park, starting from the hermitage of San Úrbez carved into the rock and following the turquoise Bellós river. Less crowded than Ordesa.

    Moderate effort · needs a car
    San Úrbez car park on the HU-631 (one-way from Escalona in summer). Return trip.
    Distance
    8 km · 300 m climb · 3 hours (to La Ripareta)

    My tip

    The first section up to “La Ripareta” suits families; the road to the start of the trail is narrow and one-way in summer.

  6. Pasarelas del Río Vero (Alquézar)

    · Alquézar

    Metal walkways suspended on the walls of the Vero gorge beneath the medieval village of Alquézar, with turquoise pools. A short loop that is thrilling for children.

    Moderate effort · needs a car
    Car park at the entrance to Alquézar (paid); the route starts at the church. A loop that returns to the village.
    Distance
    3 km · 200 m climb · 1:30–2 hours · circular

    My tip

    Entry is for a nominal fee, and in some seasons a timed booking is required. The final climb up to the village is tough in the heat.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  7. Casa Rural Orós Alto

    · Orós Alto (Valle de Tena)

    A new house with four bedrooms and three bathrooms in a small village in the Tena valley, close to Panticosa, Formigal and Biescas.

    My tip

    An excellent base in summer for trails and in winter for skiing; 45 minutes from Ordesa.

  8. Casa Rural El Chalé de Sopena

    · Santaliestra (Ribagorza)

    A comfortable rural villa for families in Ribagorza, between the rivers, walking trails and adventure sports.

    My tip

    Close to Congost d'Oliana, Benasque and Graus; ask the host about activities.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  9. Mallos de Riglos

    · Riglos

    Giant red rock pillars rising up to 300 metres above the village of Riglos, among the most famous climbing sites in Europe and home to a large colony of vultures. The view from the road alone is amazing.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    45 min by car from Huesca; the view from a car park on the road, and the trails are rocky.

    My tip

    The loop trail around the rocks (about 3 hours) is of medium difficulty; for children, walking to the base is enough to watch the vultures and climbers. Continue to the nearby Castillo de Loarre.

Day trips

2
  1. Benasque

    · Benasque

    The highest valley in the Aragonese Pyrenees: a mountain town of stone houses and slate roofs beneath Aneto (3404 m), the highest peak in the Pyrenees; a summer destination for walking to glacial lakes and a winter one for skiing at Cerler.

    What to see

    The stone town and the houses of the notables · the view of Aneto, the highest peak in the Pyrenees · the “Estós” valley for family walks · the Llanos del Hospital area · the “Forau d'Aigualluts” waterfall, where the water disappears into the rock

    How to get there
    Alosa bus from Huesca (≈2 h 30 min) — by car ≈2 h
    Easy to reach · needs a car
    By car, or by a daily bus from Barbastro; the town is flat and has full services. For the Aigualluts waterfalls: in summer cars are banned beyond Benasque, and the La Besurta point is reached by shuttle bus, then an easy 40-minute walk. Mountain weather changes after noon.

    My tip

    In summer: an easy walk to the Forau d'Aigualluts waterfalls and the Hospital de Benasque. The road through the Ventamillo gorge is stunning. 2.5 hours from Huesca.

  2. Ansó

    · Ansó

    One of the most beautiful villages in the Aragonese Pyrenees, with huge stone houses, dark roofs and quiet alleys in an isolated green valley. It connects to the Hecho valley and the dense forests of Zuriza.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    1 hour by car from Jaca on a narrow mountain road; car park at the entrance, and the village is small and easy to walk around.

    My tip

    Combine it with the village of Hecho and the road to the Selva de Oza forest. The weather changes, so bring layered clothing.

Experiences and family

14
  1. Pradera de Ordesa – Cola de Caballo

    · Torla-Ordesa

    The most beautiful valley in the Spanish Pyrenees: a paved path between beech forests and towering rock walls, passing a series of waterfalls (Arripas, Estrechura and de la Cueva) up to the Cola de Caballo waterfall. About 17 km there and back in 6 hours, with a gradual, not difficult climb; with small children you can stop at the first waterfalls (1.5 hours).

    Hard going · needs a car
    In summer and at Easter a shuttle bus from Torla is compulsory. From the Pradera to the Cola de Caballo waterfall is about 8 km one way, with a 400 m climb; 5–6 hours there and back. Restaurant and toilets at the Pradera only. Weak coverage, and changeable mountain weather.

    My tip

    In summer and at Easter the road is closed to cars, and a shuttle bus runs from the town of Torla. The best times are October, with autumn colours, and June, with full waterfalls.

  2. Guias Buenaventura

    · Alquézar

    The Sierra de Guara in Huesca is considered the canyoning capital of Europe, with dozens of limestone canyons carved by rivers in the pre-Pyrenees, where you jump into turquoise pools and slide down smooth rocks. Its starting point is the town of Alquézar, above which stands a fortress founded in the Islamic period (al-Qasr); its name still carries that Arabic origin.

    Hard going · needs a car
    An activity with a guide: drive on rural roads to the Guara gorges, a 15–60 min approach walk, then jumping, sliding and swimming in cold water. Good fitness and swimming ability needed. Cancelled if there is a risk of storms. Coverage is weak.

    My tip

    The season runs from May to September. They offer family routes suitable for children from 5 years old; book in advance for August.

  3. Formigal-Panticosa

    · Formigal

    Spain's largest ski area, with about 180 km of linked slopes in the Tena valley of the Aragonese Pyrenees. The season is usually December to April; it has beginner areas, ski schools and children's clubs, which make it suited to families.

    Moderate effort · needs a car
    On the A-136 road in the Tena valley; large car parks at the base. Carry snow chains, and the road may close during storms. Full services at the resort. Seasonal buses from Jaca/Sabiñánigo.

    My tip

    Buy the ski pass (forfait) online in advance, as it is cheaper; Panticosa village is calmer for families than Formigal.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  4. Pasarelas del río Vero (Alquézar)

    · Alquézar

    A circular trail on metal walkways hung on the walls of the Vero river gorge beneath the village of Alquézar, with turquoise waters and pools for swimming. One of the most beautiful trails in the Sierra de Guara.

    Moderate effort · needs a car
    1 hour by car from Huesca; it starts from the village of Alquézar, with many steps up and down.

    My tip

    Entry is for a nominal fee, and it closes on days of heavy rain. About 3 km and 2 hours; the final climb is tiring, so start in the morning. Suitable for children from 6 years old, with care.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  5. Congost de Mont-rebei

    · Sant Esteve de la Sarga

    The last pristine wild gorge in Catalonia: a rock wall 500 m high split only 20 m wide; the path is carved into the rock above turquoise water, with two spectacular suspension bridges. The short loop to the first bridge (3–4 hours) suits teenagers and older children.

    Hard going · needs a car
    By car on a long winding road to the La Masieta car park (book in advance, 6 euros). About 10 km there and back to the Seguer bridge, 3.5–4 hours: a passage carved into the cliff with suspended bridges. No water or toilets, no coverage, and intense heat in summer.

    My tip

    Book the car park online in advance (6 euros). There is no water or toilets on the trail, and the road to it is winding. Avoid young children in the narrow rocky section; it can be combined with a kayak trip on the reservoir.

  6. Ordesa Pirineos Zipline

    · Bergua (Broto)

    One of the longest and fastest zip lines in Europe: about a minute and a half of flight over the forests and valleys of the Pyrenees with views of the Ordesa peaks, after a fun climb in a 4x4. An intense experience for teenagers and adults, ideal combined with a visit to the Ordesa valley.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    By car to Bergua on a narrow mountain road. A short walk from the reception point to the launch point, with age and weight limits. Limited facilities; restaurants in Broto and Torla. Advance booking.

    My tip

    Book a slot online (about 46 euros per person) and check the age and weight conditions. The best times are late spring and autumn.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  7. Tirolina Valle de Tena

    · Hoz de Jaca

    It starts from the terrace of the village of Hoz de Jaca, perched above the Búbal dam, and flies nearly a kilometre over forests and water, in one of the most beautiful valleys of the Aragonese Pyrenees near the Formigal and Panticosa resorts.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    Take-off from the village of Hoz de Jaca on a mountain road; a car park in the village and a short walk. Advance booking, with age and weight limits. Closed in wind and storms. Few facilities; Biescas and Sallent are 15 min away.

    My tip

    Book a slot via the website; it is usually closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, and it is best combined with Lake Lanuza.

  8. Astún

    · Astún

    A resort at the Somport pass on the French border, with wide slopes and beautiful views, suited to intermediate and advanced skiers more than complete beginners. The season runs from December to April; in summer its lifts are used to reach the mountain lakes.

    Moderate effort · needs a car
    At the Somport pass (N-330); car park beside the station. The road is snowy and chains are sometimes needed; the Canfranc train is nearby, then a bus. Suitable for intermediate level; services at the station.

    My tip

    Hire equipment from Jaca, as it is cheaper; in summer take the lift up for a walk to the lakes.

  9. Estación de esquí de Candanchú

    · Candanchú

    One of the oldest ski resorts in Spain, on the historic Somport road beside the famous Canfranc railway station. The season runs from December to April, with moderate prices and fewer crowds, suited to intermediate skiers and experienced families.

    Moderate effort · needs a car
    On the N-330 near Somport; car park at the base and hotels. Chains are sometimes necessary. Train to Canfranc, then bus or taxi. Services at the station; strong wind sometimes closes the lifts.

    My tip

    Combine the visit with the restored Estación Internacional de Canfranc; a bus runs from Jaca.

  10. Cascada del Sorrosal

    · Broto

    A waterfall dropping about 100 metres at the entrance to the town of Broto in the Ordesa valley of the Aragonese Pyrenees; on its wall is one of Spain's best-known via ferrata routes (climbing with iron cables).

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    At the entrance to Broto; the waterfall is visible from the road, and a short walk of 5–10 min. The via ferrata route needs equipment and a guide. Services in Broto.

    My tip

    The walk to its base is easy (a few minutes from the town); the via ferrata needs equipment, which can be hired in Broto, and has a minimum age. Combine it with a visit to Ordesa National Park.

  11. Camping Peña Montañesa

    · Labuerda (Aínsa)

    A large camping resort near Aínsa in the Huesca Pyrenees, with cabins, a covered pool and an outdoor pool, a restaurant and a supermarket. A starting point for Ordesa National Park and the stone villages.

    My tip

    Cabins may not include sheets and towels; request them in advance.

  12. Lacuniacha – Parque Faunístico

    · Piedrafita de Jaca

    A zoo in the Pyrenean forest of the Tena valley with bears, wolves, bison, deer and ibex in wide natural surroundings; a walking trail of about 4 km with mountain views.

    Ages
    3–14
    Setting
    Outdoors

    My tip

    The trail is long and uphill, so for little ones take a baby carrier instead of a pushchair; 2–3 hours. Electronic tickets bought 24 hours in advance are cheaper.

  13. Parque Faunístico Lacuniacha

    · Piedrafita de Jaca

    A zoo in a mountain forest in the Tena valley, with bears, wolves, ibex, bison and deer in wide natural spaces. The trail is about 4 km among the trees, with views of the Pyrenees.

    Moderate effort · needs a car
    1 hour by car from Jaca; car park before the entrance, and an uneven forest track that is not suitable for small pushchairs.

    My tip

    Buy the tickets online 24 hours in advance for a lower price. The trail is long and sometimes uphill, and it tires young children; early summer or autumn is better than August. It is closed on some midweek days outside the season.

  14. Piedrafita Mountain Lodge

    · Piedrafita de Jaca (Valle de Tena)

    Modern wooden cabins with a view of the Pyrenean peaks in the Tena valley, a few steps from Lacuniacha – Parque Faunístico, the wild animal park in the forest. In the morning two friendly horses greet the children, and the trail to the Piedrafita glacial lake is easy for families.

    My tip

    The cabins range from 1 to 4 bedrooms, so choose according to your numbers; summer for hiking and animals, winter for skiing at Panticosa and Formigal.

Where to stay

3
  1. Camping & Bungalows Ordesa

    · Torla-Ordesa

    At the entrance to Ordesa and Monte Perdido National Park, Spain's oldest mountain reserve and one of UNESCO's sites; from here you take the bus to the Ordesa valley and its waterfalls.

    My tip

    Private cars are banned from entering the valley in summer, so leave the van at the campsite and use the bus from Torla.

  2. Parking Ordesa Pirineos

    · Fiscal

    A quiet service area in the mountain village of Fiscal, surrounded by Pyrenean peaks, with water and waste emptying; a calmer and cheaper alternative to the Torla campsites for travelling between Ordesa and Aínsa.

    My tip

    No electricity or toilets; suitable for self-sufficient vans.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  3. Ruta del Pirineo: Navarra – Aragón – Cataluña

    · Pamplona → Girona

    From Pamplona to Girona via the Roncal valley, Jaca, Ordesa, Aínsa, Benasque, the Aran valley and the Aigüestortes park: 8–12 days and about 700–900 km, with Spain's highest peaks, glacial lakes and Romanesque stone villages, and mild temperatures in summer.

    My tip

    Mountain roads need a low gear on descents to protect the brakes. Many valleys (Ordesa, Benasque) close to cars in summer and run buses instead, and wild overnight stays inside national parks are strictly forbidden.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked

Relaxation

2
  1. Zona de barbacoas y merendero Los Cerezos (Jaca)

    · Jaca

    A private paid barbecue and picnic area beside a country house on the road to France near Jaca in the Pyrenees, with fully equipped barbecues, a river pool for swimming and a safe area for children.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    5 min by car from Jaca on the N-330 (km 2). Car park, barbecue equipment.
    Barbecue
    Barbecue is allowed by booking and payment (a private equipped facility); it may be suspended on days of extreme danger.

    My tip

    Book in advance with the owner; suitable for a family summer celebration in cool weather.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  2. Balneario de Panticosa – Termas de Tiberio

    · Panticosa

    A thermal spa at 1,600 m in a glacial valley of the Pyrenees, with an outdoor hot pool facing the peaks. The view is exceptional, but recent reviews of the spa's maintenance and water temperature are mixed (3.8).

    My tip

    Entry for non-guests is limited to about 75 minutes. Combine it with a walk to the Panticosa lakes, and book a quiet day outside the holidays.

Chapter Three

When to go to Huesca y Pirineos

My view in brief: June to October for nature, December to March for snow. Pick a month to see its weather and events.

Among my best months An event or holiday

January

No events listed in January. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.

Chapter Four

What to bring home

What deserves to come home with you from Huesca y Pirineos: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.

  • The Russian cake

    Pastel ruso de Ascaso

    2 layers of meringue with almonds and hazelnuts, filled with praline cream. Ascaso's sweets in Huesca have been famous for it since the early 20th century, and it is the city's most famous gift.

  • Almudévar braid

    Trenza de Almudévar

    A braided cake with walnuts, hazelnuts and raisins. Note: some of its recipes include alcohol, so ask about it.

  • Pyrenean cheeses

    Quesos del Pirineo aragonés

    Craft goat and sheep cheeses from the mountain valleys, the oldest herding tradition in the region.

  • Pyrenean honey

    Miel del Pirineo

    Dark mountain honey from wild flowers and heather.

  • Candied chestnuts

    Castañas de fruta

    A marzipan sweet shaped like a chestnut, a tradition of Huesca in autumn.

Chapter Five

Getting around Huesca y Pirineos

Apps that work here

Uber

Last reviewed1 October 2026