144 places in and around Sevilla, 31 of them among my favourite picks.
Chapter One
“Sevilla” was the seat of the Abbadids in the Taifa period, then the capital of the Almohads in al-Andalus. From their time remain the minaret of the Great Mosque, “La Giralda”, the Torre del Oro and parts of the palace. It fell in 1248 CE; in the 16th century it became the gateway to trade with the Americas and the richest city in Spain.
Figures of Sevilla
al-Mu'tamid ibn 'Abbad
The last Abbadid king of Sevilla and one of al-Andalus's great poets; he ended his days as a prisoner in Aghmat in Morocco, where his tomb is.
Avenzoar (Ibn Zuhr)
A physician from Sevilla, from a family of physicians, author of “al-Taysir fi al-Mudawat wa-l-Tadbir”, and a friend of Averroes (Ibn Rushd).
Ibn Jaldún
The historian and founder of the science of ʿumran. His Hadrami family were notables of Sevilla and left it before its fall; he himself was born in Tunis.
Diego Velázquez
Spain's greatest painter, born in Sevilla and trained there before moving to the court in Madrid.
Chapter Two
4 hour-by-hour day plans and 3 walking routes I drew myself in Sevilla, with the places to pray and eat where I marked them.
Chapter Three
144 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
The palace of Seville's rulers from the time of the Abbadid taifa kings, then the Almohads. Pedro I rebuilt it in the 14th century with craftsmen from Granada and Toledo, producing the finest example of Mudéjar art. It contains the Patio de las Doncellas, spacious gardens and the Almohad cistern “Baños de María de Padilla”.
My tip
Book a timed ticket through the official website a few days ahead, and go in at the first slot of the morning to escape the heat; the visit takes 2–3 hours, then stroll the neighbouring Santa Cruz quarter.
The minaret of the Great Mosque built by the Almohads. Abu Yaqub Yusuf began it and his son Yaqub al-Mansur completed it in 1198 CE, to celebrate the victory at Alarcos. It is the sister of the Kutubiyya in Marrakesh and the Hassan Tower in Rabat. A bell tower was added in the 16th century, and the Patio de los Naranjos also survives from the old mosque.
My tip
The ascent is by ramps, not stairs (35 ramps), so it suits everyone; the ticket is shared with the cathedral and it is best to book it in advance; entry after four pm is less crowded.
A majestic semicircular square built for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition in a revivalist style inspired by Andalusian and Mudéjar architecture, surrounded by a canal crossed by bridges, with zellige benches for each Spanish region.
My tip
Free, and open until midnight; come in the morning to take photos without crowds, or just before sunset; you can hire a boat on the canal.
A polygonal defensive tower built by the Almohad governor Abu al-Ala Idris around 1220 CE on the bank of the Guadalquivir. A chain ran from it to a tower opposite to close the river to ships. Today it houses a small maritime museum.
My tip
Entry is by a token donation, and the visit takes half an hour; it looks best from the opposite bank (Triana) at sunset.
The largest wooden structure in the world: a contemporary canopy shaped like a giant mushroom over the Plaza de la Encarnación, with a panoramic walkway on top and Roman and Andalusi remains in its basement.
My tip
The ticket allows two visits on the same day: by day, then at night for the light show; sunset is the most beautiful time.
A 16th-century aristocratic palace that blends Mudéjar style with the Italian Renaissance, with a central courtyard covered in Sevillian zellige, decorated wooden ceilings and quiet gardens.
My tip
An excellent alternative if tickets for the great Alcázar have sold out; the ground-floor ticket is enough, and the visit takes about an hour.
Río Grande
Mediterranean and rice dishes beside the Guadalquivir River, overlooking the Gold Tower (Torre del Oro)
TrySeafood rice, grilled fish with a view of the Torre del Oro
“Direct views of the Guadalquivir River and the Torre del Oro; ideal for families and guests.”
Booking advised · Smart casual · Suits families and children, couples, friends and groups and business meetings
Abantal
Refined signature Andalusian cooking, tasting menu; closed Wednesdays and weekends
TryAndalusian tasting menu
“Michelin star and refined contemporary Andalusian cooking; suited to business dinners.”
Booking essential · Smart casual · Suits couples and business meetings
La Salá (Los Remedios)
Peruvian and Andalusian cuisine: ceviche, lomo saltado, rice dishes; closed Mondays
TryCeviche, lomo saltado, rice
“Creative Peruvian cooking with an excellent rating; ceviche and sharing plates for groups.”
Booking advised · Casual · Suits families and children, couples and friends and groups
Az-Zait
Innovative Andalusian cuisine, tasting menus; closed Sundays and Wednesday lunchtime
TryAndalusian tasting menu, almadraba tuna
“Well-executed Andalusian cooking, calm service and reasonable prices; one of the highest-rated restaurants.”
Booking advised · Smart casual · Suits couples and business meetings
Cañabota
Refined seafood and fish restaurant, seafood tasting menus; closed at weekends
TrySeafood tasting menu, carabineros
“Michelin star for fresh fish and seafood, grilled in front of you at the bar.”
Booking essential · Smart casual · Suits couples and business meetings
El Cevichano
Peruvian: ceviche, leche de tigre, lomo saltado and pisco sour
TryCeviche, tiger's milk, lomo saltado
“The best Peruvian restaurant in Seville.”
Booking advised · Casual · Suits families and children, couples and friends and groups
Seville's largest and most beautiful park, designed by the Frenchman Forestier in the spirit of Andalusian gardens, with pools, fountains and shaded walkways. It includes the Plaza de España and the Plaza de América.
My tip
Ideal for shady walks in summer; horse carriages and family bikes are available to rent at the entrances.
· San Nicolás del Puerto
An old iron mine that has become a natural monument: narrow passages between sculpted limestone pillars and tunnels in the Sierra Norte de Sevilla. An easy, exciting route for children.
My tip
Some stretches close after rain because of landslide risk; ask at the visitor centre.
· Gerena
A historic Andalusian estate in the countryside about 25 km north of Seville, with a wide courtyard, a pool and quiet gardens. Suitable for anyone who wants privacy and calm after visiting the city.
My tip
You will need a car; weddings are held there at weekends in summer, so ask about this to make sure it is quiet.
· Écija
Écija, capital of the Andalusi district of Écija and one of the oldest towns on the Guadalquivir, known as the “City of Towers” and the “Frying Pan of Andalusia” for its intense heat. The Palacio de Peñaflor, with its long painted balcony (59 meters), is its most famous Baroque palace.
What to see
Plaza de España, “El Salón” · Palacio de Peñaflor and its painted balcony · Palacio de Benamejí (the historic museum) · eleven ornate Baroque towers · remains of the Almohad wall and the castle tower
My tip
Start at the main square, “El Salón”, then the Palacio de Peñaflor and its tower, and then the historic museum in the Palacio de Benamejí (the Roman Amazon of Écija). Avoid midday in summer; temperatures exceed 40°.
· Carmona
Carmona is a town on a hill, one of the strongest fortresses of al-Andalus, and the capital of the Berber Banu Birzal clan in the 11th century. Its fortified gate brings together walls from the Carthaginian, Roman and Andalusi periods, and its roofs overlook the Guadalquivir plain.
What to see
The alcazaba of the Puerta de Sevilla and its viewing terrace · The palace of King Don Pedro (parador) above the upper alcazaba · Puerta de Córdoba · The Roman necropolis · Plaza de San Fernando · The Patio de los Naranjos at the Church of Santa María, former courtyard of the Great Mosque
My tip
35 minutes by car from Seville, and a good stop on the way to Córdoba; free on Monday.
· Santiponce
One of the oldest Roman cities in Spain, birthplace of the emperors Trajan and Hadrian. It has a huge amphitheatre that holds 25,000 and superb mosaics.
What to see
The Roman amphitheatre, one of the largest in the Empire · Mosaics of the House of the Birds and the House of Neptune · Streets of the Hadrianic city · The Roman theatre at Santiponce · Interpretation centre
My tip
20 minutes from Seville; go at opening (9 am), as there is no shade on the site; it closes at 14:30 and on Mondays.
· Osuna
Osuna is a ducal town on a hill in the middle of wheat plains. It combines an old university (1548 CE), a huge collegiate church and Baroque palaces on Calle San Pedro. The Torre del Agua is an archaeological museum in a 12th-century Andalusi tower.
What to see
Torre del Agua (archaeological museum) · the old university · Calle San Pedro and its palaces · the main square · the Roman quarries “Las Canteras”
My tip
Visits are by appointment and with a guide; buy the combined ticket (the museum, the convent and the collegiate church). Calle San Pedro is one of the most beautiful Baroque streets in Andalusia.
· Estepa
Estepa is a town on a hill known as the “Balcony of Andalusia” for its views over the plains of Seville, Córdoba and Málaga. It is famous for the polvorón and mantecado sweets made there for centuries. Above it stand the Baroque Torre de la Victoria (40 meters) and the castle ruins.
What to see
Baroque Torre de la Victoria · Balcón de Andalucía viewpoint at the castle · the castle ruins and main tower · the polvorón factories · the Baroque Iglesia del Carmen from the outside
My tip
Visit in autumn, when the smell of the sweet factories fills the air, and buy directly from the factories (such as “La Estepeña”). Climb the tower for the widest view.
· Sanlúcar de Guadiana (Huelva)
The only zip line in the world between two countries. It starts from a hill in Portugal and crosses the Guadiana river at 70–80 km/h to land in Spain. As Portugal is an hour behind, “you arrive before you set off”. A one-minute experience you will not forget, with the river crossed by boat.
My tip
Book ahead through their website and check the boat timetable; closed on Monday and Tuesday. Minimum age and weight limits apply; about two hours from Seville.
Renfe's luxury hotel train, with original “Belle Époque” carriages, renews its route in 2026 for its 40th anniversary: 7 days between Seville, Córdoba, Toledo, Cáceres, Mérida and Madrid, with guided visits and fine meals.
My tip
Trips from 5,000 euros per person and up; book months ahead through Renfe or travel agents, and request halal or alcohol-free meals in advance.
· La Rinconada
A 15th-century Andalusian estate near Seville, with an olive garden of more than 150 varieties from around the world and a rare collection of antique tools, plus horses and peacocks. The tour ends with a traditional Andalusian breakfast of oil and tomato.
My tip
20 minutes from Seville; tours run in the morning on weekdays, by reservation. Request a meat-free breakfast when booking.
· El Castillo de las Guardas
A safari route you drive through in your own car, among giraffes, zebras and gazelles that come up to the window, then a walking section with elephants, tigers and animal shows. An hour from Seville.
My tip
Bring plenty of carrots from the supermarket (inside the reserve it is more expensive); go at opening to avoid the queue of cars. A full day.
An amusement and water park on the Isla de la Cartuja, themed on the voyages of discovery of the 16th century, with games for children and adults and a water section called Aguamágica.
My tip
Open seasonally (spring and summer, plus weekends outside peak periods); buy the ticket online and check the calendar before you go.
An Andalusi-style bath experience in a 16th-century Mudéjar house near the cathedral, with pools at graded temperatures, a steam room and massage.
My tip
Book ahead and confirm your slot a day before; evening is its quietest time.
An organised prayer room in the old quarter at the Plaza de Ponce de León, a quarter of an hour's walk from the cathedral.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually around 13:30 to 14:30 (it may run later, to 15:00, in summer); confirm with the mosque before then. It opens only for prayer times; it has a women’s section, and the entrance is shared.
A prayer room on the lower floor in the north of the city, frequented by many communities.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually around 13:30 to 14:30 (it may run later, to 15:00, in summer); confirm with the mosque before then. It opens a quarter of an hour before the adhan; the women’s prayer room has a separate entrance.
A large halal shop with beef, chicken, lamb, spices and fresh bread. It will grill what you buy at the attached restaurant (Friday couscous is famous).
My tip
In an industrial area east of the city; you need a car or taxi.
A halal butcher with a restaurant: Berber tagine and grills, at competitive prices.
My tip
Almost opposite Cash Árabe; you can combine the two in one visit.
A halal butcher with an attached restaurant, where you choose your cut and it is grilled for you. A restaurant that does not serve alcohol, according to customers.
My tip
A good place for a family halal meal when entering Seville from the Córdoba side.
A 19th-century Sevillian house with a glass-roofed courtyard, a few steps from the Giralda, with a rooftop pool overlooking the minaret of the old Almohad mosque. It serves free tea to guests in the afternoon.
My tip
Ask for a room with a balcony overlooking the Giralda.
· Dos Hermanas
One of the highest-rated branches of Indie Campers in Spain (4.7 with more than 2300 reviews), an ideal starting point for the great Andalusian journey: Córdoba, Granada, Cádiz and the white villages, or crossing into Portugal.
My tip
It is in Dos Hermanas, south of Seville; do not take the van into the old city because of the narrow lanes; use the suburban car parks and buses.
· Sevilla → Ronda → Tarifa
A loop from Seville or Málaga through Arcos de la Frontera, Grazalema, Mountain Flower (Zahara), Setenil, Ronda, then the coast to Tarifa and Vejer: 7–10 days and around 600–800 km. It takes in Andalusi castles on rocky peaks, whitewashed villages and the parkland of the Sierra de Grazalema.
My tip
Mountain roads are very narrow inside the villages, so leave the van at the entrances; avoid July and August (temperatures above 40°) and prefer spring and autumn; Seville, Málaga, Córdoba and Granada have ZBE zones.
A historic five-star hotel built for the 1929 Exposition in the revivalist Mudéjar style, in the heart of old Seville next to the Royal Palace (Alcázar) and the cathedral. It is known for its Andalusian courtyard and decorations.
A small restored palace with an Andalusian courtyard and a rooftop pool, in a quiet neighborhood near the cathedral.
My tip
It has few rooms and personal service; book early.
· Las Cabezas de San Juan
An 18th-century Andalusian olive estate between Seville and Jerez, with private cottages, three pools and flowering gardens. An intimate, quiet atmosphere far from the crowds.
Seville's most famous historic shopping street, covered with awnings in summer, running from the Plaza de la Campana to the Plaza de San Francisco, with fashion shops, traditional fans and long-established confectioners.
My tip
Combine it with Calle Tetuán, which branches off it, and with El Corte Inglés in Plaza del Duque; most shops close at midday on Sunday.
The main department store in central Seville, with international brands, cosmetics, luxury products and a fine food section, and a tax refund service for tourists.
My tip
Ask for a VAT refund form when you pay; it opens almost daily, including Sunday, with shorter hours.
A pedestrian street parallel to Sierpes, linking the Plaza de la Campana with the Plaza Nueva, where Spanish and international fashion and shoe brands are concentrated.
My tip
Together with Sierpes and Calle Velázquez it forms Seville’s “shopping triangle”; shops often close at midday in summer.
One of the oldest ceramics shops in Triana, Seville, with a façade covered in zellige. It sells plates and hand-painted zellige in the Triana style, inherited from the Andalusi pottery workshops.
My tip
Visit the nearby “Triana Ceramics Centre” (Centro Cerámica Triana) first to understand the history of the craft; ask for good packaging.
A shop on Sierpes with one of the largest collections of hand-made Spanish fans in Seville, with painted designs, carved wood and a range of prices.
My tip
Seville fans make a light gift; Saturday morning only, and closed on Sunday.
The official shop for “Tortas de Aceite” (olive-oil crisps with anise and sesame), handmade since 1910, alongside Seville products such as bitter orange marmalade.
My tip
Its ingredients are plant-based and made with olive oil; the metal tins make a sturdy gift for travel.
The square stands in front of the Church of El Salvador, which was built over Seville's first mosque, the mosque of Ibn Adabbas (9th century CE). Its courtyard and its altered minaret still stand inside. A lively square with café terraces, in the middle of the shopping streets.
My tip
Go into the church to see the old mosque’s “sahn” and the base of the minaret; the cafés are crowded on Saturday midday, and the square fills with people standing in the evening.
· Cazalla de la Sierra
A shaded recreation area on the Huéznar river in the Sierra Norte de Sevilla park, where the river splits into two arms to form an island. A refuge for Sevillians from the summer heat, close to the Vía Verde of the old railway and the Huéznar waterfalls.
My tip
The road to it is a little rough, and there is no organized car park; take your rubbish with you. In Andalusia, barbecues are banned in forests from 1 June to 15 October (the danger season in the INFOCA plan), and this may be extended; in general, barbecues are banned in many provinces from around 15 May to 15 October, so check the forest-fire rules for the province before you go.
The original branch of the AIRE chain, in a 16th-century palace in the Barrio de Santa Cruz, with pools at graded temperatures, a salt pool and a steam room. Its historic atmosphere is its strength.
My tip
Capacity is limited and sessions are sometimes rescheduled, so confirm your booking a day before; sessions are mixed, in swimwear, and young children are usually not allowed.
Founded in 1885 at the top of Sierpes, it has become one of Seville's emblems, with its façade and interior décor inspired by Art Deco and Modernism. It still makes Seville's convent sweets from old recipes.
My tip
Try “yemas” (sweetened egg yolk), orange cake or “pionono” with a coffee standing at the bar. Early morning, before the crowds, is best.
A confectioner's and café on Sierpes, operating since the early 20th century (around 1910), still making its sweets in the workshop above the shop. One of Sevillians' traditional places for breakfast and merienda.
My tip
Coffee with the house pastries, or ice cream in summer. Late morning on weekdays is quieter. Closed on Sunday.
· San Nicolás del Puerto
A rural picnic area on the Río Huéznar near San Nicolás del Puerto, with tables, barbecue grills and toilets, and near the river's waterfalls.
My tip
Small, with limited parking. The fountain is out of order; bring water. And take your rubbish back with you.
· Casco Antiguo
Seville's old Jewish quarter, with narrow white alleys and squares in bloom with orange trees and fountains. It adjoins the palace of Seville (Alcázar) and the cathedral with its Almohad minaret, the Giralda. One of the most beautiful districts of Seville for wandering and photography.
What to see
The palace of Seville (Real Alcázar) · The cathedral and the Giralda · Plaza de Santa Cruz · Jardines de Murillo · The Water Alley (Callejón del Agua) · Plaza Doña Elvira
My tip
Best time: early morning, or after seven pm; avoid the scorching summer afternoon. Moroccan and Levantine restaurants nearby; for tapas, order fried fish (pescaíto) and salmorejo without jamón. Pickpockets around the cathedral, and women scammers selling “lucky rosemary”.
· Triana
The district of sailors, potters and flamenco on the west bank of the Guadalquivir, with an independent identity its people are proud of. Its coloured façade on Calle Betis is one of Seville's most beautiful views. Its Andalusi ceramic tile workshops (azulejo) are an extension of an ancient Andalusi craft.
What to see
Triana Bridge (Isabel II) · Mercado de Triana and Castillo de San Jorge · Calle Betis along the river · Ceramics Centre (Centro Cerámica Triana) · Alfarería street · Iglesia de la O
My tip
Best time: sunset on Calle Betis, and the market in the morning. Mercado de Triana has fish, fruit and fresh produce; avoid the jamón stalls. Safe and friendly, with the usual care at night near the river.
Horse-drawn carriages have been part of Seville's identity for centuries. They leave from official stands near the cathedral and tour María Luisa Park, Plaza de España and the Torre del Oro. A comfortable alternative to walking in the heat for families and older people.
My tip
The official stands: Plaza de la Virgen de los Reyes and Plaza del Triunfo, beside the cathedral, and in front of Plaza de España and the Torre del Oro. Prices are set by the city council and the tariff is posted on every carriage: ask to see it, agree on the price and duration (usually 45–60 minutes) before boarding, and have the cash ready. The service is suspended during severe heatwaves. Choose a carriage whose horse looks healthy.
· Carmona
One of the largest and most decorated breeding farms for the purebred Andalusian horse (PRE) in the world, 25 minutes from Seville near Carmona. There is a tour among the horses and foals with explanation, then a short riding display. Children can touch the horses and take photos.
My tip
Advance booking is essential (through their website or booking platforms, ≈30–35€ per person). The tour and show take ≈1.5–2 hours in the morning on weekdays. The walk is on flat dirt ground; wear comfortable shoes and a hat in summer. Combine it with a visit to the Alcazaba of Carmona.
· Casco Antiguo
The old port district between the cathedral and the river, from which the ships of the “Indies” set sail in the Age of Discovery. It has the Almohad Torre del Oro and the bullring “La Maestranza”. A lively area with restaurants and a riverside promenade.
What to see
Torre del Oro (Almohad, 1220 CE) · Guadalquivir riverside walk · Archivo de Indias (Indies Archive) · Hospital de la Caridad · Teatro de la Maestranza · Mercado del Arenal
My tip
Best time: sunset on the riverside walk, or a boat trip. Plenty of seafood restaurants and cafés on Calle Aduana; ask about pork. Generally safe.
· Casco Antiguo
Europe's oldest public park (1574 CE), guarded by Roman columns bearing statues of Hercules and Julius Caesar. It was transformed from a marginalized area into a modern bohemian neighborhood with cafés and international restaurants. Residents gather here in the evening, away from the tourists.
What to see
Alameda de Hércules square and Columnas de Hércules · the nearby Metropol Parasol, “the mushroom” · Calle Feria and its market · the churches of San Lorenzo and Jesús del Gran Poder · Calle Amor de Dios
My tip
Best time: the evening, when it cools and children play in the square. International, vegetarian and shawarma restaurants nearby. Lively at night with bars, so visiting before dinner suits families best.
Chapter Four
Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holidayBars: lowest and highest temperature
March11° to 22°
A wonderful spring (11–22°C), with the scent of orange blossom filling the city; it may coincide with Holy Week and its crowds. We recommend a boat ride on the Plaza de España canal.
Celebration
Holy Week
Semana Santa
2026: 29 March to 5 April · 2027: 21 to 28 March
Religious processions with carried statues in Sevilla, Málaga, Granada and Valladolid. A striking cultural experience, but city centres shut down and hotel prices rise 2–3 times over; book months ahead.
Season
Orange blossom in Sevilla
Azahar de Sevilla
Mid-March to mid-April
The orange blossom is in the air in the streets of Sevilla and Córdoba — the Andalusi heritage in gardens such as the palace and the Generalife at its finest. One of the best times to visit.
Chapter Five
From my own stays
I chose it for my guests★★★★★
A historic five-star hotel built for the 1929 Exposition in the revivalist Mudéjar style, in the heart of old Seville next to the Royal Palace (Alcázar) and the cathedral. It is known for its Andalusian courtyard and decorations.
Where I wouldn't stay
Alameda de Hércules at nightAlameda de Hércules
A nightlife square with bars; late-night noise on weekends.
Polígono Sur (Las Tres Mil Viviendas)Polígono Sur (Las Tres Mil Viviendas)
A marginalized neighbourhood far from the sights; there is no reason to visit or stay near it.
Hotels I recommend in Sevilla
Chapter Six
What deserves to come home with you from Sevilla: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
Estepa olive oil
Aceite Estepa DOPExtra virgin oil from the “Hojiblanca”, “Arbequina” and “Manzanilla” varieties, balanced and fruity, and one of the Spanish oils that wins the most awards.
Seville table olives
Aceituna Manzanilla y GordalSeville is home to two varieties: “Manzanilla”, small and firm, and “Gordal”, large and fleshy, the most famous table olives in the world; they are sold seasoned with garlic and thyme, “aliñadas”.
crisp olive oil bread
Tortas de aceite de Inés RosalesCrisp flakes made with olive oil, aniseed, sesame and sugar, handmade in Castilleja de la Cuesta since 1910, each one wrapped in clear paper; free of pork lard.
bitter orange marmalade
Mermelada de naranja amargaThe bitter oranges of Seville’s street trees are the origin of the famous English “marmalade”; locally they are sold in handmade versions.
convent sweets
Dulces de conventoThe nuns make them from old recipes with Andalusian roots: “Yemas de San Leandro” from egg yolks and sugar, “Bizcochos marroquíes” and “Cortadillos”; read the ingredients, as some, like the “mantecados”, contain pork lard.
mantecados and polvorones
Mantecados y Polvorones de Estepa IGPWarning: they are traditionally made with pork lard (“manteca de cerdo”), so they are excluded, unless the label explicitly says “de aceite de oliva” or “sin manteca de cerdo”.
Chapter Seven
Seville — San Pablo Airport (SVQ)
From the airport to the city
Getting around
Emergencies and siesta
Last reviewed1 October 2026
