Lugo
14 places in and around Lugo, 4 of them among my favourite picks.
Chapter One
The story of Lugo
Roman Lugo (Lucus Augusti) is surrounded by complete Roman walls, the only ones in the world preserved along their full circuit, and they are listed as a World Heritage Site.
Figures of Lugo
- d. around 11 BC
Paullus Fabius Maximus
The Roman commander who founded “Lucus Augusti” around 25 BC.
- 1903–1986
Ánxel Fole
A Galician short-story writer born in Lugo, who has a seated statue in the city.
- 1911–1981
Álvaro Cunqueiro
A writer and journalist born in Mondoñedo in the province of Lugo.
Chapter Two
Places in Lugo
14 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
Heritage and monuments
3Muralla Romana de Lugo
The only Roman wall in the world that survives complete along its length (2.1 km and 71 towers), dating from the 3rd century and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You can walk along the top of it around the whole old town. Lugo was entered by the Muslims in the 8th century, before Alfonso I took it back.
My tip
The walk on the walls is free and always open (about an hour). Start at the interpretation centre to understand the history. Lugo is a stop on the Camino Primitivo to Santiago.
Castillo de los Templarios (Ponferrada)
· Ponferrada
One of Spain's most famous castles: a huge fortress with walls and crenellated towers, handed by the kings of León to the Knights Templar in the 12th century to protect the pilgrims' road. Today it houses a library displaying copies of Templar manuscripts, and interactive exhibits for children.
- Moderate effort
- City centre; you can walk to it from the train station in 15 minutes. Inside there are many steps and a stone stairway up to the walls; difficult for pushchairs.
My tip
Allow an hour and a half; closed on Mondays, and the ticket is cheap. Combine it with Las Médulas (25 km) in one day.
Monasterio de Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil
· Nogueira de Ramuín
A huge Benedictine monastery with three arcaded cloisters hanging above the Sil river valley, converted into a “parador” hotel. The largest and most important monastery in the Ribeira Sacra area.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Two hours from Santiago; the car park is 600 m away with a free small bus, or you can walk down.
My tip
Entrance to the cloisters is free. You can have lunch at the hotel café. Forest trails start from the monastery.
Restaurants and cafés
3Restaurante Nito
A historic restaurant since 1970 above Area beach near Viveiro, with terraces overlooking the sea, listed in the Michelin Guide.
- A reference for traditional seafood in the Mariña Lucense, with stunning views and a wide wine list; prices are high.
TryMixed shellfish, the daily grilled fish, octopus, seafood rice
Booking essential · Suits couples, business meetings and families and children
La Solana
A restaurant overlooking the port of Ribadeo on the border with Asturias, serving Galician-Asturian cooking.
- Excellent pulpo a feira and fresh fish at reasonable prices; close to the Playa de las Catedrales (As Catedrais).
TryPulpo a feira, grilled fish, shellfish, seafood rice
Booking advised · Suits families and children, friends and groups and couples
O Lar de Manolo
A Galician eatery in the centre of Ribadeo, with fresh home cooking and quick service.
- Suitable for families and large groups; the hake and seafood salpicón dishes are well regarded.
TrySeafood salpicón, hake Galician style, salad, the daily fish
Booking advised · Suits families and children and friends and groups
Nature and walks
3Cañón del Sil – Balcóns de Madrid (Ribeira Sacra)
· Parada de Sil (Ourense)
A gorge about 500 m deep, carved by the Sil river into the granite; its walls are terraced hanging vineyards and medieval Romanesque monasteries. The “Balcóns de Madrid” are its most famous viewpoints. Ribeira Sacra is a candidate for the UNESCO list.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Only by car, along narrow winding mountain roads from Ourense (50 minutes); from the car park, a wooden walkway of about 5 minutes leads to the viewpoint. No services at the viewpoint, and the signal is patchy. The boat trip sets off from another landing that needs a car and a booking.
My tip
The viewpoint is free and always open (5 minutes on foot from the car park). The best experience is the river boat trip (catamaran) at the bottom of the gorge. Autumn is golden.
Playa de Covas
· Viveiro
A soft sandy beach facing the old town of Viveiro in the Mariña Lucense, with a small island reached by a bridge. Calm and fairly sheltered, suitable for families, but the water is cold and the weather is changeable even in summer.
- Easy to reach
- 2 km from the centre of Viveiro on a level promenade on foot, or by car to a car park next door. Toilets and lifeguards in summer, and restaurants nearby. Suitable for older people and pushchairs.
My tip
Easy parking and toilets; combine it with a stroll through the old town of Viveiro. On windy days the wind carries fine sand, so choose a sheltered corner.
Faro de Illa Pancha (Ribadeo)
· Ribadeo
A lighthouse on a small island joined by a bridge at the mouth of the Ribadeo estuary, above cliffs and turquoise waters. One of the most beautiful sunsets in northern Galicia.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Two hours from A Coruña and 10 minutes from Ribadeo; a nearby car park and a short walk.
My tip
It is 10 minutes from the Playa de las Catedrales, so combine them. The bridge is narrow and the wind is strong; watch the children.
Day trips
3Castillo de los Marqueses de Villafranca
· Villafranca del Bierzo
A lovely town in the Bierzo valley at the meeting of two rivers, nicknamed “Little Compostela”, because a sick pilgrim could gain the pilgrimage's indulgence there without completing the route. Its stone streets have mansions with coats of arms, and the Marquises' castle with square towers.
What to see
Castle of the Marquises of Villafranca (seen from outside) · Calle del Agua street with its noble mansions · the town square and its cafés · the bridge over the Burbia river · the Alameda gardens
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- On the A-6 motorway (two hours from León); limited Alsa buses. The streets are slightly steep and paved; one to two hours.
My tip
The castle is privately owned and is not usually open; enjoy it from outside. The town is a pleasant stop between León and Galicia, and its weather is warmer than the Castilian plains.
Castillo de Puebla de Sanabria
· Puebla de Sanabria
A border town on a hill between two rivers, crowned by the castle of the counts of Benavente (15th century), a Romanesque church and streets of stone, slate and wood. The gateway to Lago de Sanabria, the largest glacial lake in Spain.
What to see
The castle of Benavente and the “Giants” museum inside it · the main street rising between the slate houses and balconies · the town hall square and the church of Nuestra Señora del Azogue · the walls and their viewpoints over the two rivers · Lago de Sanabria (15 minutes by car)
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- On the A-52 road (two and a half hours from Valladolid), and the high-speed station “Sanabria AV” is nearby. The town is paved and uphill; two hours.
My tip
The castle is open every day and the ticket is symbolic. Spend the morning in the town and, in summer, the afternoon on the lake shores. Winter is very cold and it may snow.
Plaza Mayor de Ribadavia
· Ribadavia
A medieval town in the Avia valley in the province of Ourense, with one of Spain's most beautiful Jewish quarters, the castle of the counts of Ribadavia, and a large square with stone arcades.
What to see
The Jewish quarter and Sephardic information centre · the castle of the counts of Ribadavia · the great square · the Romanesque churches of Santiago and San Juan · the “Festa da Istoria” festival in August
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- 30 minutes from Ourense by car or train. Gentle slopes; two hours.
My tip
The area is famous for its vineyards, so skip the wineries. The traditional Jewish sweets from the “Tafona” bakery are famous. Combine it with Ourense and its thermal baths.
Experiences and family
1Catamarán Cañón del Sil (Embarcadoiro de Santo Estevo)
· Nogueira de Ramuín
A boat trip of about an hour and a half between the towering walls of the Sil river gorge in the Ribeira Sacra, where vineyards terrace the slopes. One of the most beautiful natural experiences in inland Galicia.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- Two hours from Santiago and 40 minutes from Ourense; a very steep, narrow road down to the dam, and limited parking.
My tip
Book a few days ahead in summer (deck seats are allocated in booking order). Trips run from about April to October. Combine it with the Santo Estevo monastery and the valley viewpoints.
Where to stay
1Parador de Santo Estevo
· Nogueira de Ramuín (Ourense)
A thousand-year-old Benedictine monastery in the heart of the Ribeira Sacra forests above the Sil river valley, with three cloisters and a spa. One of the most highly rated paradores, and a perfect place for calm and nature.
My tip
Take the boat trip on the Sil river or the hanging vineyards tour. The road is mountainous and winding, and the spa is paid and needs a booking.
Chapter Three
When to go to Lugo
Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holiday
January
No events listed in January. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Four
What to bring home
What deserves to come home with you from Lugo: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
- DOP
San Simón da Costa cheese
Queso San Simón da Costa DOPPear- or bullet-shaped cow's-milk cheese, smoked over birch wood to acquire a shiny golden crust.
- IGP
Galician chestnut
Castaña de Galicia IGPLugo is Spain's largest chestnut producer; they are roasted in autumn (October–November).
- IGP
Cea bread
Pan de Cea IGPGalician bread, famous for its distinctive shape and thick crust; it keeps for days.
- IGP
Galician honey
Mel de Galicia IGPProtected honey in several varieties: dark chestnut, heather, eucalyptus and multi-flower honey.
- DOP
Arzúa-Ulloa cheese
Queso Arzúa-Ulloa DOPCreamy cheese from the pastures of Lugo and A Coruña.
- IGP
Galician beef
Ternera Gallega IGPExcellent beef from Galician farms; halal slaughter is required.
Chapter Five
Getting around Lugo
- Radio Taxi Lugo+34 982 213 377
Last reviewed1 October 2026