Ávila
35 places in and around Ávila, 4 of them among my favourite picks.
Chapter One
The story of Ávila
“Ávila”, on the edge of the Middle March, was resettled by the Castilians in the late 11th century and ringed with some of the most complete medieval walls in Europe; it is listed as a World Heritage Site.
Figures of Ávila
- 1515–1582
Teresa de Ávila
A Christian mystic writer born in Ávila, at the heart of the city’s history and its sights.
- 1451–1504
Isabel la Católica
Queen of Castile, born in Madrigal de las Altas Torres in the province of Ávila.
- 1548–1611
Tomás Luis de Victoria
The leading composer of the Spanish Renaissance, born in Ávila, who has a statue there.
- 1932–2014
Adolfo Suárez
The first prime minister of the democratic era, born in Cebreros in the province of Ávila and buried in its cathedral.
Chapter Two
Ready-made trips
1 hour-by-hour day plan and 1 walking route I drew myself in Ávila, with the places to pray and eat where I marked them.
Chapter Three
Places in Ávila
35 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
Heritage and monuments
6Murallas de Ávila
The most complete medieval city wall in the world: 2.5 km long, with 87 towers and 9 gates, built from the late 11th century when Ávila was a frontier post on the edge of al-Andalus; UNESCO-listed.
My tip
Closed Mondays; the ticket is about 8 euros, and the wall walk is split into several sections with multiple entrances.
Mirador de los Cuatro Postes
A viewpoint at four stone pillars that reveals the whole wall with its towers: the iconic view of Ávila.
My tip
Go in the afternoon or at sunset, and stay until the walls are lit up at night.
Cuevas del Águila
· Ramacastañas
A huge limestone cave discovered in the 1960s in the Tiétar valley south of Ávila, with a wide main hall full of carefully lit columns and stalagmites, and a constant temperature all year round.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- From Ramacastañas, a narrow road of ~4 km to a parking area near the entrance. Inside the cave: passages, many steps and humidity (40 min). A café at the entrance. A car is essential.
My tip
A good day trip from Madrid; combine it with Arenas de San Pedro and the Gredos mountains.
Castillo de la Triste Condesa (Arenas de San Pedro)
· Arenas de San Pedro
A 15th-century castle built by the Constable Ruy López de Ávalos, and its name is linked to the widow of Álvaro de Luna, who took refuge there after her husband’s execution. It stands in a town south of Gredos with a mild climate and chestnut groves.
- Easy to reach
- Buses from Madrid; the castle is in the town, with a nearby car park and level ground. Full services.
My tip
Visits are by ticket from the nearby tourist office; combine it with the Eagle caves (Cuevas del Águila), 10 minutes away.
Castillo de Valdecorneja (El Barco de Ávila)
· El Barco de Ávila
A 14th-century castle guarding the crossing of the Tormes river and its medieval bridge. It was the seat of the House of Alba’s lordship over the four “lands of Valdecorneja”. The town is famous for its prized beans with protected designation of origin.
- Easy to reach
- Buses from Ávila; the castle is on the edge of the town above the river, a short climb. Services in town. Closed Tuesdays.
My tip
Summer shows and events are held at the castle; the times vary and it is closed on Tuesdays, so check before you go.
Castillo de Oropesa
· Oropesa
A large Gothic castle on a hill overlooking the Tagus plain and the Gredos mountains, next to the Palace of the Counts of Oropesa, which has become the “Parador” hotel. You are free to climb all its towers and walls.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- An hour and 40 minutes from Madrid on the A-5. Car parks inside and outside the walls; climbing the walls by a stone staircase; an hour and a half.
My tip
Tickets are inexpensive and it is closed on Mondays; some towers have stairs without railings, so keep an eye on the children. An ideal stop between Madrid and Cáceres.
Restaurants and cafés
5Los Candiles
A grill restaurant inside the walls of Ávila, one of the best places to taste the famous Ávila chuletón.
- “Avileña” beef, protected by geographical indication, at its finest; book in advance.
TryÁvila chuletón, beef fillet, grilled peppers, Yemas de Santa Teresa for dessert
Booking essential · Suits families and children and friends and groups
Barro
Avant-garde cooking with Ávila produce in a restored house with a view; a cocktail bar on the lower floor. Open Thursday–Sunday.
- ★ Michelin
- With a view
TryTasting menu
Booking essential · Smart casual · Suits couples and business meetings
Yemas de Santa Teresa
Confectioner and café for “Yemas de Santa Teresa” (La Flor de Castilla), with an open workshop. · since 1860
- The historic home of the “Yemas” sweet of Ávila (La Flor de Castilla, 19th century).
Signature dish“Yemas de Santa Teresa”, the original egg-yolk sweet of Ávila
Everyday clothes · Suits families and children
Bococo
A modern restaurant in the old town serving Castilian cooking with inventive presentation and standout desserts.
- One of Ávila’s most highly rated and popular restaurants; a blend of tradition and modernity at a reasonable price.
TryChuletón, vegetable dishes, fish of the day, the chef’s desserts
Booking advised · Suits families and children and couples
El Almacén
A restaurant in a restored old warehouse on the bank of the Adaja river, with a stunning view of the walls of Ávila.
- The finest view of the walls while you eat; suitable for a special lunch or a romantic dinner.
TryÁvila chuletón, salads, fish, desserts
Booking essential · Suits couples, families and children and business meetings
Nature and walks
8Laguna Grande de Gredos
· Zapardiel de la Ribera
A glacial lake beneath the Almanzor peak (2592 m), the highest summit in central Spain, in the heart of the “glacial cirque” of the Gredos range. The Spanish ibex roams freely around it, and it is the most famous mountain walk in the province of Ávila.
- Hard going · needs a car
- From the La Plataforma car park, about 6.5 km one way on a stone track (5–6 hours there and back): a climb, then a steep descent to the lake. No shade and no guaranteed water; a refuge near the lake. Cold and storms even into summer. Not suitable for older people.
My tip
The route from “La Plataforma” is about 6.5 km one way (roughly two and a half hours), and the climb is moderate. Carry water and warm clothing even in summer, and avoid winter unless you are experienced.
Glamping The Teepee
· Mombeltrán
Equipped Indian teepees in a forest on the southern face of the Gredos mountains, away from the noise and under a star-studded sky.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- Outside Mombeltrán by a dirt track through the forest; a car is needed. Sloping ground between the tents and the shared facilities. The village (a small shop, restaurants) is a few minutes away, and Arenas de San Pedro for wider services is 15 min away. Nights stay cold even into summer.
My tip
Two hours from Madrid; close to Mombeltrán castle and the Roman road at Puerto del Pico.
Hotel El Milano Real
· Hoyos del Espino
A family country hotel in Hoyos del Espino at the entrance to the Sierra de Gredos Regional Park; its rooms and restaurant overlook the Gredos peaks and the Tormes river valley. An ideal base for walking to the Laguna Grande de Gredos, amid some of the finest mountain scenery in central Spain.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car only, via the AV-941 road. The hotel is on the road in Hoyos del Espino, where there is a grocery, a pharmacy and restaurants. Plataforma de Gredos is 12 km away by car. Snow possible in winter.
My tip
Start in the morning from La Plataforma (12 km) to the Laguna Grande de Gredos, and book dinner in advance, as the restaurant fills up at weekends.
Calzada Romana del Puerto del Pico
· Cuevas del Valle
A paved stone road in rare condition, descending from a mountain pass at 1352 m to the town of Cuevas del Valle. For centuries it was an artery for crossing Gredos and moving seasonal livestock, with wide views over the Tiétar valley.
What to see
Walking the paved road · Puerto del Pico viewpoint · the town of Cuevas del Valle · the town of Mombeltrán and its castle · the Gredos peaks
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- The whole road is 4 km of steep descent on slippery Roman stones, one way only: you need a car waiting at the bottom or a hard climb back. The easiest option is a short walk from the viewpoint and back. No shade and no services.
My tip
The full walk is about 4 km downhill; a short stretch from the viewpoint is enough. Watch out for goats on the N-502.
Laguna Grande de Gredos (desde La Plataforma)
· Hoyos del Espino
A classic walk in the Gredos mountains along an old Roman road to a glacial lake beneath the Almanzor peak; mountain ibex appear along the way. A first-class mountain view.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- La Plataforma car park (end of the AV-931 from Hoyos del Espino; paid). Out and back; no public transport.
- Distance
- 13 km · 450 m climb · 5 hours
My tip
The route is exposed, with no shade; set off early in summer and carry enough water. The refuge by the lake serves drinks.
Casa Rural Entregredos
· Guisando
A large luxury house in the village of Guisando on the southern slope of Gredos, with a pool in the sun all day, an open mountain view and a barbecue terrace.
My tip
Accommodates a large family (~12); near the Águila cave and Arenas de San Pedro.
Casa Rural Crisol SPA
· Arenas de San Pedro
Stone cabins among the trees above a small river, with an outdoor pool and spa, a walk from the centre of Arenas de San Pedro.
My tip
Independent cabins for a small or medium family; pets are allowed.
Casa Rural El Higueral de la Sayuela
· El Raso (Candeleda)
A farm estate of several small houses among fig, cherry and peach trees, with a pool and views over the valley and the reservoir, at the southern foot of Gredos.
My tip
Several houses can be rented together for a family gathering. The road to them is long outside the village, so bring your supplies.
Experiences and family
3Plataforma de Gredos
· Hoyos del Espino
The end of the paved AV-931 road at about 1770 m, the gateway to the main trails of the Sierra de Gredos Regional Park, where walks start for the Laguna Grande and the mountain meadows.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Car access only, via the AV-931 (12 km from Hoyos del Espino); a free car park that fills up in summer. No toilets and no services. The La Real trail is easy as far as the first river. Snow in winter.
My tip
The car park is free but fills up in summer weekends; there are no toilets or services, so stock up beforehand in Hoyos del Espino.
Abejas del Valle – Museo de las Abejas
· Poyales del Hoyo
A small, well-known museum in the Tiétar valley south of the Gredos mountains. It offers an entertaining illustrated talk about the world of bees; its highlight is a live hive behind glass in which the queen can be spotted. It has a shop selling the region’s honey and its products.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Car access only; the museum is in the village. Limited services.
My tip
The talk is in Spanish and lasts about an hour and a half; best suited to children from 8–10 years. Entry is a token price (about €5 for adults and €4 for children), and it is advisable to call before your visit to check the times. No protective clothing is needed, as you watch from behind the glass.
Hotel Rural El Retiro de San Pedro
· Arenas de San Pedro
A country hotel on the slopes of the Gredos mountains south of Ávila, its grounds extending into the forest, with a pool and river and mountain trails. A natural destination relatively close to Madrid (two hours).
My tip
The rooms are simple; its strength is the nature and the trails. Visit the nearby Águila cave.
Where to stay
5Parador de Ávila
- One of the city's best hotels
A historic palace built against Ávila’s famous wall, with an entrance beside it for climbing onto the walls, and a quiet garden.
My tip
Its car parking is limited; book a space in advance.
Hotel Palacio de Los Velada
- One of the city's best hotels
A 16th-century palace directly opposite the cathedral inside the walls, with renovated rooms and an elegant covered courtyard.
My tip
The best location for exploring the old town on foot.
Parador de Gredos
· Navarredonda de Gredos
The first parador in the network’s history (opened 1928), in the pine forests of the Gredos mountains, with wide mountain views. An old building with old rooms and no air conditioning.
My tip
Important: it has been announced that it will close from October 2026 for a full renovation until around late 2028, for its centenary. Check before you plan.
Hotel Palacio Valderrábanos
- Boutique
A 15th-century palace directly opposite the cathedral inside the walls. Spacious rooms and an unrivalled location.
My tip
The public car park is an 8-minute walk away, by the Church of San Pedro; the walls are thin.
Hotel Las Leyendas
- Boutique
A boutique hotel next to the medieval wall inside the old town, with stylish modern rooms, some overlooking the garden. A walk beside the wall at night is enchanting.
My tip
Reception closes at night (11 pm); ask for the quiet garden room.
Relaxation
8Castañar de El Tiemblo
· El Tiemblo
An ancient chestnut forest with the famous “El Abuelo” tree, which turns to gold in autumn. Easy trails for children and picnic tables at the entrance.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- About an hour and a quarter by car from Madrid, then 20 minutes on a dirt track to the parking areas. Excellent shade.
- Barbecue
- Not allowed: there are no designated grills here, and lighting fires in the forest is banned (Castile and León rules).
My tip
At weekends an entry fee applies (about €6 per car and €2 per person). Very crowded in autumn, so prefer weekdays. Picking chestnuts is forbidden. Take your rubbish home with you.
Valle de Iruelas
· El Tiemblo
A nature reserve on the shore of the Burguillo reservoir, with pine forests, river beaches, a restaurant and water activities. A spot for a full day in nature, an hour and a half from Madrid.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car via El Tiemblo, then a narrow road to Las Cruceras. Tables near the parking areas; good shade.
- Barbecue
- Conditional: allowed only at the fixed, designated grills outside the danger season (usually banned from about 1 July to 30 September and on alert days); check the signs.
My tip
Very busy on summer weekends, and the road is narrow; arrive early. The opposite bank of the reservoir is quieter for swimming. Take your rubbish home with you.
Área recreativa El Valladal (Las Navas del Marqués)
· Las Navas del Marqués
A picnic area in a wide pine forest, with tables, covered barbecue grills and easy paths suitable for wheelchairs and pushchairs. Quiet and very suitable for families.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- About an hour and a quarter by car from Madrid via the A-6 and CL-505; tables near the entrance. Plenty of shade.
- Barbecue
- Conditional: allowed only at the fixed, designated grills outside the danger season (usually banned from about 1 July to 30 September and on alert days); check the signs.
My tip
The grills are closed in summer. Avoid driving through the town at busy times by going round it. Take your rubbish home with you.
Merendero de Peguerinos
· Peguerinos
A meadow by a stream in a vast pine forest on the borders of Madrid, Segovia and Ávila, with wide open spaces for play and napping. Clean and quiet, away from the crowds.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- About an hour and a half by car from Madrid via the mountain road from San Lorenzo or Guadarrama. Excellent shade.
- Barbecue
- Not allowed: there are no designated grills here, and lighting fires in the forest is banned (Castile and León rules).
My tip
No phone signal; download the map in advance. There are few tables and limited parking; bring a rug. Take your rubbish home with you.
Barbacoas PradoRoble (Aldeavieja)
· Aldeavieja
A private meadow on the edge of the village of Aldeavieja in Ávila, which rents a grill to each group for the whole day, with tables, chairs and a small snack bar. Its owners are friendly and help light the fire.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- About an hour by car via the A-6, then the AP-51 (Villacastín exit). Car park, toilets, shade.
- Barbecue
- Barbecuing is allowed with a booking (a licensed private facility); bring your food. Charcoal and utensils are provided.
My tip
Open Friday–Monday; book via WhatsApp (+34 600 72 26 37). Groups of 10 people or more can request other days.
Área recreativa Tamborríos (Navarredonda de Gredos)
· Navarredonda de Gredos
A wide area under dense pine shade on the bank of the Tormes river near Navarredonda de Gredos, with tables and seasonal barbecue grills. Around it are natural pools for wading, and from here a trail starts to the Valdiascas gorge.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- About two hours by car from Madrid via Ávila or the M-501; an easy car park and tables on level ground. Restaurants and shops in Navarredonda.
- Barbecue
- Allowed with conditions: in Castile and León, barbecues are banned in recreation areas during the high-risk season (usually 1 July–30 September, and it can start in mid-June); on alert days they are banned even in licensed grills; outside that, fixed grills are allowed. Bring charcoal.
My tip
Crowded at summer weekends; come early. Bring swimwear and water shoes for the pools.
Zona recreativa Eras del Prado (Casillas)
· Casillas
A picnic area in the heart of an ancient chestnut forest in the village of Casillas in the Tiétar valley, near its ethnographic museum. It has tables and barbecue grills for family celebrations, and its trees turn beautiful colours in autumn.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- About an hour and a quarter by car from Madrid via the M-501 and Sotillo de la Adrada; the tables are by the road, on nearly level ground.
- Barbecue
- Allowed with conditions: in Castile and León, barbecues are banned in recreation areas during the high-risk season (usually 1 July–30 September, and it can start in mid-June); on alert days they are banned even in licensed grills; outside that, fixed grills are allowed. Bring charcoal.
My tip
The best time is late October and November for the chestnut colours, outside the fire-ban season. The village is small, with cafés and a shop.
Área recreativa La Nava (Peguerinos)
· Peguerinos
An area in a mountain pine forest near Peguerinos on the edge of Madrid, with eight barbecue corners, each with two grills, plus tables, benches and springs. One of the closest fixed barbecue sites to Madrid outside its own province.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- About an hour and a quarter by car from Madrid via the AP-6, then the mountain road from Alto del León to Peguerinos; a dirt car park with tables nearby. Almost no phone signal.
- Barbecue
- Allowed with conditions: in Castile and León, barbecues are banned in recreation areas during the high-risk season (usually 1 July–30 September, and it can start in mid-June); on alert days they are banned even in licensed grills; outside that, fixed grills are allowed. Bring charcoal.
My tip
There are few grills compared with the visitors, and some groups reserve them all day; go early, or take your portable stove for use where allowed. The rubbish bin is often full; take your rubbish home.
Chapter Four
When to go to Ávila
Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holidayBars: lowest and highest temperature
June10° to 24°
Warm (10–24°C) and ideal. We recommend walking in the Valle de Gredos and its mountain lakes.
No events listed in June. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Five
Where to stay in Ávila
Hotels I recommend in Ávila
- Parador de Ávila ★★★★
- Hotel Palacio de Los Velada ★★★★
Chapter Six
What to bring home
What deserves to come home with you from Ávila: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
Saint Teresa’s egg-yolk sweets
Yemas de Santa TeresaLittle sweets of egg yolk and sugar, the emblem of Ávila; the most famous maker is La Flor de Castilla, since 1860.
- IGP
El Barco beans
Judías de El Barco de Ávila IGPProtected beans in white, red and speckled varieties, thin-skinned and creamy-hearted; buy them dried.
- IGP
Ávila beef
Carne de Ávila IGPBeef from the “Avileña-Negra Ibérica” breed, famous for the “chuletón” steak. Note: halal slaughter is required, so order it from a halal supplier.
Gredos goat’s cheese
Queso de cabra de GredosArtisan goat’s cheese from the Gredos mountains, south of the province.
Chapter Seven