49 places in and around Segovia, 7 of them among my favourite picks.
Chapter One
“Segovia” sits on the northern frontier of al-Andalus. Its best-known landmarks are the Roman aqueduct and the royal palace (Alcázar), and its old town is a World Heritage Site. Isabel was proclaimed queen of Castile here in 1474 CE.
Figures of Segovia
Isabel la Católica
She was proclaimed queen of Castile in Segovia in 1474 CE, and she is the one who took Granada in 1492 CE.
Andrés Laguna
A physician and botanist born in Segovia. He translated Dioscorides' book on medicinal substances and wrote a commentary on it.
Juan Bravo
Leader of the “Comuneros” revolt in Segovia, executed after the defeat at Villalar. He has a statue in a square that bears his name.
Antonio Machado
The great poet taught French in Segovia (1919–1932), and his room in its inn is preserved as a “house-museum”.
Chapter Two
1 hour-by-hour day plan and 2 walking routes I drew myself in Segovia, with the places to pray and eat where I marked them.
Chapter Three
49 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
A Roman water channel from the 1st or 2nd century CE, rising 28 metres on about 167 arches of stone laid without mortar, which carried water into the city until the 20th century.
My tip
Always free; climb the steps beside it for a view from above. It is beautifully lit at night.
A fortified palace on a rock at the meeting of two rivers. Its name comes from the Arabic “al-qasr” (the palace), and it may have been built on a fortress from the Islamic era. It later became the seat of the kings of Castile, with gilded Mudéjar ceilings; it is said to have inspired Disney's castle.
My tip
Book the ticket and the tower in advance (climbing the tower is at a set time); allow an hour and a half.
The best angle for photographing the whole palace, like a ship above the rock, from a quiet green meadow below the city.
My tip
A 10-minute walk downhill from the palace; the best time is at sunset.
A small museum in the house of one of the senior Jews of the Castilian court, telling the story of Segovia's Jews until their expulsion in 1492. It is a starting point for a walk through the lanes of the old Jewish Quarter.
My tip
A symbolic fee; the visit takes 45 minutes, and the information is usually in Spanish.
· Arévalo
A town known as the “capital of Mudéjar art” in Castile, with its brick churches with arches and niches of Andalusian character, and its castle where Isabel la Católica grew up as a child; its tower now houses a museum of grain.
My tip
The castle usually opens only at weekends; don't miss the Mudéjar church of “La Lugareja” outside the town, and the medieval “La Villa” square.
· Turégano
A unique castle whose double walls enclose a Romanesque church, so the fortified tower and the church became a single building; it was the seat of the bishops of Segovia. It overlooks a large square, one of the finest in the area.
My tip
Opening times are limited, and it closes on Tuesdays and Wednesdays; climbing the bell tower gives a wide view. Combine it with Segovia (30 minutes).
Villena
Chef Carlos Costas’s Michelin-starred restaurant, inside the church of a 17th-century Capuchin convent.
TryTasting menu, with advance notice to the kitchen of no pork and no alcohol; seasonal vegetables; desserts
Booking essential · Suits couples and business meetings
Casa Duque
One of Segovia’s oldest restaurants (since 1895), with several dining rooms decorated with antiques, near the Roman aqueduct.
TrySuckling lamb roasted in the oven (Cordero asado), grilled lamb chops, Segovian ponche
Booking advised · Suits families and children and friends and groups
El Rancho de la Aldegüela
A grill house in an old sheep-shearing barn: suckling pig and suckling lamb (by advance order). Closed Monday–Tuesday.
TryRoast suckling lamb, fish, soup
Booking essential · Casual · Suits families and children, business meetings and friends and groups
La Fundición
Inventive Segovian cooking (large beans, croquettes, courgette flower); Bib Gourmand. Closed Tuesdays.
TryJudiones (large beans) without pork, croquettes, courgette flowers
Booking advised · Casual · Suits families and children, couples and business meetings
Mesón de Cándido
A legendary restaurant at the foot of the Roman aqueduct: roast suckling pig, carved with the rim of the plate. · since 1931
TryRoast lamb, Castilian salad
Booking advised · Casual · Suits families and children, friends and groups and business meetings
José María
A benchmark Segovian grill: suckling pig and lamb, and a large vaulted cellar; a bar for light drinks.
TryLamb roasted in the oven
Booking advised · Everyday clothes · Suits families and children, business meetings and friends and groups
· San Rafael
A family country hotel at the foot of the Sierra de Guadarrama among the pines, with gardens, a pool and refreshing mountain air in summer — one of the top-rated hotels around Madrid.
My tip
An hour from Madrid and half an hour from Segovia; suited to a summer weekend escape from the capital's heat.
· Real Sitio de San Ildefonso
Royal gardens in the French style spreading over more than 140 hectares, with woodland and huge legendary fountains powered by gravity, among the finest gardens in Spain.
My tip
Entry to the gardens is free; allow at least 3 hours, and the great fountains run on set days only.
· Real Sitio de San Ildefonso
It occupies the Children's House (Casa de los Infantes), built in the 18th century for court staff within the royal palace at San Ildefonso, the summer residence Philip V wanted as a likeness of Versailles. A few minutes' walk from the palace gardens and their famous fountains, at the foot of the Guadarrama mountains.
My tip
Choose a stay that coincides with the days the great fountains in the gardens run (set days in spring and summer), and make use of the indoor pool and spa.
· La Velilla
A small country hotel run by its owners in the quiet village of La Velilla, its terraces overlooking a stream and the foothills of the Sierra de Guadarrama, a few minutes from the walled town of Pedraza. A real refuge from the noise of the city.
My tip
Phone coverage is weak, so treat it as a chance to rest; the included breakfast is among the best in the area.
· Pedraza
An elegant inn built into the walls of Pedraza, the walled medieval village entered through a single gate, with its great square and castle. Its rooms overlook the valley and the stork nests.
My tip
Visit Pedraza during the first two weekends of July to see the “Candle Nights”, when the village is lit by thousands of candles.
· Sepúlveda
A country inn in a historic Romanesque building in the heart of Sepúlveda, the town overlooking the “Hoces del Río Duratón” park with its rocky bends and vulture colonies. It offers the experience of staying inside history at reasonable prices.
My tip
Walk the nearby “Path of the Two Rivers (Senda de los dos ríos)”, or book a kayak tour in the Duratón gorge.
You float at sunrise over the Roman aqueduct, the Alcázar, the cathedral of Segovia and the snow-capped Guadarrama peaks. About an hour of quiet flight, then a country breakfast and a flight certificate. A once-in-a-lifetime experience for the family (usually from age 6 up).
My tip
Book weeks ahead; the flight depends on the weather and may be postponed. They provide transport from Madrid at dawn; ask for juice instead of cava at the closing celebration.
· Rosuero (Riaza)
A farm with country lodgings designed for families with young children, with horses, farm animals, daily activities with the farmer and pony rides. The rooms are spacious with terraces overlooking the pastures, and the home cooking is praised.
My tip
Best for children aged 1 to 8; book the weekend ahead. It is an hour and a half from Madrid, near the La Pinilla ski resort.
The community prayer room in Segovia.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually between 13:30 and 14:30 (it can slip to 15:00 in summer); check the mosque before then. It is a small mosque with little information, so confirm that Friday prayer is held there before you go.
A 17th-century convent converted into a five-star hotel with very spacious rooms and valley views; the most upscale stay within Segovia.
My tip
Breakfast ordered from the menu is excellent; arrange your car parking in advance.
A modern building on a hill north of the city, with a full view of the Roman aqueduct, the cathedral and the palace.
My tip
Walking to the centre takes about an hour; a taxi is easier, and parking is available.
A free municipal car park for motorhomes beside the bullring, a 15–20 minute walk along the Roman aqueduct to the old town; the best overnight stop for visiting Segovia and its palace.
My tip
Water and waste-emptying services are available, but some pitches are sloped, so bring levelling chocks; the car park is sometimes cleared on Saturday morning for the market.
· Madrid → Segovia → Salamanca
From Madrid through Segovia, the Mudéjar Castillo de Coca, Peñafiel and Peñaranda de Duero, the Castillo de la Mota in Medina del Campo, then Ávila and Salamanca: 5–7 days and about 600–700 km, passing the castles of the Duero line, which was a frontier between Muslims and the Christian kingdoms.
My tip
Daytime heat is high in summer and nights are very cold in winter, so choose a van with heating. Madrid, Valladolid and Salamanca have ZBE zones, and use the Park4night and Caramaps apps to find the free service areas scattered across Castilian villages.
A small palace, elegantly renovated, in the old town between the Roman aqueduct and the main square. The rooms are spacious and clean, and the service is friendly.
My tip
The car park is tight; ask for a room that does not overlook the back wall.
A small hotel with a classic character right on the main square, near the cathedral. The best location in Segovia for anyone who wants to walk everywhere.
My tip
Ask for a room overlooking the square; they take the car to park it, or use the public car park nearby.
One of the best-known shops for “Segovian ponche”: a custard cake with sugar-toasted marzipan, the iconic sweet of Segovia.
My tip
The ponche is sold in small sizes for tasting; close to the main square.
· Real Sitio de San Ildefonso (Valsaín)
The most popular picnic spot in the Valsaín forest on the Segovia side of the Guadarrama: the clear Eresma river between tall pines, free tables and easy trails. The water is shallow in many places and suits children playing.
My tip
Parking is free but fills up quickly in summer (arrive before 10 am). The water is very cold; swim at your own risk, as there are no lifeguards. Take your rubbish home with you.
· Real Sitio de San Ildefonso (Valsaín)
A picnic area in the Valsaín forest on the bank of the Eresma river, with tables, a car park and pine-forest trails. Slightly less crowded than the neighbouring La Boca del Asno.
My tip
Ideal for families with children, and wading in the river in summer is fun. Not suitable for wheelchairs. Take your rubbish home with you.
· Real Sitio de San Ildefonso (Valsaín)
An old stone bridge over the Eresma river at the top of the Valsaín forest, with banks and meadows suited to a break and a meal on the Madrid–Segovia road. A starting point for pine-forest trails.
My tip
Few car parking spaces by the road. The water is very cold. Take your rubbish home with you.
· Real Sitio de San Ildefonso (Valsaín)
A wide green meadow near the village of Valsaín, where horses graze freely; a stream, small waterfalls and an old bridge run through it. A quiet spot to spread a rug and enjoy the mountain.
My tip
Almost no tables, so bring a rug and chairs. It gets a little crowded at weekends. Do not get too close to the horses. Take your rubbish home with you.
· Real Sitio de San Ildefonso
A quiet spot away from the road in an oak forest near the Pontón Alto reservoir, with many tables, plenty of shade and swings for children. An excellent choice for anyone who wants calm away from the crowds.
My tip
Maintenance varies: in late spring the grass can grow long (watch out for ticks). The kiosk is usually closed, so carry everything with you. Take your rubbish home with you.
· El Espinar
A recreation area in a pine forest on the La Garganta pass, with natural summer pools, tables, toilets and a small café. One of the few places near Madrid with barbecue grills.
My tip
Entry by car is charged in season (about 8 euros per car) and the system usually works at weekends. Few bins, so carry your rubbish. Take your rubbish home with you.
A hot-air balloon flight at sunrise over the Roman aqueduct of Segovia and its famous palace, with one of the highest-rated companies in Spain. Transfer from your hotel in Madrid and breakfast after landing.
My tip
Flights leave at dawn and depend on the weather, so book a spare day. A private basket can be requested for a family or a couple. An excellent alternative is Aerodifusión in the same area. Ask to swap the cava for juice.
Chapter Four
Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holidayBars: lowest and highest temperature
May7° to 19°
Mild (7–19°C), with the Titirimundi puppet festival. We recommend street puppet shows for children.
No events listed in May. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Five
Hotels I recommend in Segovia
Chapter Six
What deserves to come home with you from Segovia: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
Segovian ponche cake
Ponche segovianoA sponge cake with custard cream, coated in burnt marzipan in a lattice pattern, invented in Segovia in the 1920s; despite its name it usually contains no alcohol, so check when you buy.
La Granja beans
Judiones de La Granja IGPLarge, buttery-textured white beans from La Granja de San Ildefonso; order them cooked with vegetables or seafood, not with pork.
Roast suckling lamb
Lechazo asadoA Castilian dish from wood-fired ovens. Note: the meat is not slaughtered in the Islamic manner unless it carries a halal certificate. As for “cochinillo”, it is pork, so exclude it.
Guadarrama mountain honey
Miel de la Sierra de GuadarramaDark mountain honey from wildflowers, heather and oak.
Chapter Seven
From Madrid: the AVE/Avant train from Chamartín takes 27 minutes to the “Segovia‑Guiomar” station, about 6 km from the centre; from there, the city bus (line 11 or 12) to the Roman aqueduct takes about 15–20 minutes, or a taxi. There are also direct Avanza buses from Madrid’s Moncloa bus station to the heart of Segovia in about an hour and 15 minutes. The city is small and you get around on foot. No airport; the nearest is Madrid. Tips: winter is very cold, and a car is useful for visiting the nearby Palace of La Granja de San Ildefonso.
Last reviewed1 October 2026
