The Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias, a futuristic complex with the largest aquarium in Europe (OceanogrĂ fic), the Turia Gardens along an old riverbed, the Malvarrosa beaches, the home of the original paella, and a long Islamic history in irrigation channels and the Water Tribunal.
Chapter One
Valencia was the chief city of eastern al-Andalus. El Cid seized it (1094â1102 CE), then Jaume I took it in 1238 CE. It kept the Andalusi irrigation system, and the âWater Tribunalâ still sits every Thursday in front of the cathedral, as it has for centuries.
Figures of Valencia
Ibn Jafaya
The Andalusi poet of nature, born on the island of XĂșquer (Alzira) near Valencia.
al-Rusafi
A poet born in al-Rusafa, a suburb of Valencia, famous for his longing for it.
Ibn al-Abbar
A historian and man of letters born in Valencia, author of âal-Takmila li-kitab al-Silaâ, who recited his sÄ«niyya appealing to the Hafsids during its siege.
El Cid
He seized Valencia in 1094 CE and ruled it until his death.
Chapter Two
4 hour-by-hour day plans and 3 walking routes I drew myself in Valencia, with the places to pray and eat where I marked them.
Chapter Three
106 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
A futuristic architectural complex by Santiago Calatrava in the bed of the old Turia river: the Opera, the IMAX cinema dome, the science museum and the OceanogrĂ fic ValĂšncia, set among turquoise pools.
My tip
Walking around the buildings is free. It is most beautiful at sunset, when the buildings are reflected in the water.
· Xà tiva
A huge castle on a hill above XĂ tiva, the town where paper was made in Europe for the first time, known in Arabic as âal-kÄghad al-shÄáčibÄ«â. The imam al-Qasim ibn Firruh al-Shatibi, author of âal-Shatibiyyaâ on the Quranic readings, was born there. A Roman fortress in origin, it was enlarged by the Muslims until its fall in 1244 CE.
My tip
A ticket of about 6 euros; closed on Mondays. Drive up early in summer, as there is little shade. About 50 minutes from Valencia.
· La Vall d'Uixó
Europeâs longest underground navigable river: a boat trip of about 800 metres between illuminated halls and clear lakes; humans have lived here since the Stone Age. It lies in Vall dâUixĂł, which preserved the heritage of the Moriscos of Valencia.
My tip
Book ahead, especially in summer; temperatures are around 20° all year. 45 minutes from Valencia.
The Gothic silk exchange hall (1482â1548), with spiral columns that branch out like palm trees, and an orange-tree courtyard. It is listed as World Heritage and bears witness to Valenciaâs commercial wealth.
My tip
A 30â45 minute visit with a symbolic ticket; directly opposite the Central Market of Valencia.
A huge Gothic gate from the 14th century that was the main entrance to Valenciaâs walls, built on the site of one of the Islamic-era gates of Valencia; from the top there is a view of the old city and the Turia gardens.
My tip
132 steps to the top with a symbolic ticket; closed Sunday evenings.
· AlbarracĂn (Teruel)
The town takes its name from the Banu Razin, Berbers who ruled it as an independent taifa kingdom in the 11th century. Their castle stands on a rock above the Guadalaviar river, and walls climbing the mountain surround the town.
My tip
Entry to the castle is only by a guided tour booked at the town museum; you can roam the walls freely. The town is one of Spainâs most beautiful villages.
Casa Carmela
Valencian paella cooked over orange-wood fire since 1922, in the Malvarrosa neighbourhood near the beach.
Signature dishValencian paella cooked over a wood fire since 1922
Casa Roberto
A classic rice house with formal service; Valencian paella and seafood rice.
Navarro
A family restaurant since 1951 serving rice and paella, near the Plaza del Ayuntamiento.
Ricard Camarena Restaurant
Refined tasting cuisine based on the vegetables of the Valencian orchard.
Nou RacĂł
Traditional paella amid the rice fields on Lake Albufera.
Llar del Pescador
An authentic Valencian paella in the village of El Palmar in the middle of Lake Albufera; closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
TryValencian paella (chicken, rabbit and beans), âseñoretâ rice with peeled seafood, âall i pebreâ (eel stew with garlic and pepper)
Booking essential · Suits families and children, couples and friends and groups
A 9 km green park laid out in the bed of the Turia river after it was diverted following the 1957 flood; it runs through Valencia from Bioparc to Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias, under historic bridges.
My tip
Rent a bike and set off from Torres de Serranos to Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (about 30 minutes).
· Valencia (El Palmar)
A wide coastal lagoon ringed by rice fields. Its name comes from the Arabic âal-Buhayraâ (the lake), and the paella dish originated here. Muslims in Valencia (714â1238 CE) built the irrigation and farming systems around it.
My tip
A boat trip from the village of El Palmar at sunset, then a traditional rice lunch; 20 minutes south of the city.
Valenciaâs most famous city beach: very wide golden sand that stretches along Las Arenas beach and a long seafront promenade with restaurants serving authentic rice and paella. The tram reaches it from the city. Warm (25° in summer) and shallow water.
My tip
Suitable for a family half-day out from the city; playgrounds and fountains. The water can be a little cloudy; for clearer swimming head south to El Saler.
· Serra
Hotel apartments among the pines inside the Serra Calderona natural park in the town of Serra, with a pool overlooking the mountains, 30 minutes from the city of Valencia: a quick green escape from the coastal heat.
My tip
There is no restaurant on site; the apartments are equipped for cooking. Climb to the summit of GarbĂ or visit the nearby Portacoeli monastery.
· Torres Torres
Carefully restored country houses in the village of Torres Torres at the northern tip of the Serra Calderona, a village that keeps a castle and a bath of Arab origin from the Andalusi period. Suitable for families and for anyone who loves quiet near Valencia.
My tip
Visit the Arab baths (Baños årabes) in the village, and Sagunto with its castle, 15 minutes away.
· Xà tiva
A fountain from the late 18th century at the historic entrance to XĂ tiva, whose fresh water flows from 25 spouts, then runs to the public wash-house and the irrigation channels. It symbolises the water tradition of a town famous in al-Andalus for its âShatibiâ paper.
What to see
The 25-spout fountain · Castell de Xà tiva on the hill and its view · the Almodà museum and the upside-down Philip V painting · the Collegiate church · the old centre of Xà tiva
My tip
Drink from it and fill your bottle with its cold water; next to it is a shaded garden to rest in.
· AlcalĂĄ del JĂșcar
A remarkable town carved into the cliff wall of the JĂșcar gorge. Its white houses step down the slope, crowned by a five-sided castle tower of Almohad origin, and deep caves run through the rock from side to side.
What to see
The Almohad-origin tower of the castle and its view · the âMasagĂłâ and âDiabloâ caves, which pass through the mountain · the Roman-style bridge over the JĂșcar · the church and the rare round bullring · the river beach in summer
My tip
Leave your car in the paid car parks below the town; the ticket to the caves includes a drink. Summer is hot, and the river is suitable for family rowing.
· Chulilla
A white village suspended above the Turia gorge, crowned by a castle of Islamic origin on a rocky edge. It is the start of the famous âsuspended bridgesâ trail along the gorge, and one of Europeâs most famous rock-climbing destinations.
What to see
The Islamic-origin castle and its view · the âsuspended bridgesâ trail in the Turia gorge · the Charco Azul viewpoint (the blue pool) · the white alleys and church · the âCanalâ trail carved into the rock
My tip
Start the trail early in summer because the gorge is hot; the trail is easy-to-moderate (two hours, circular). The castle is free and the climb to it is 7 minutes.
· PeñĂscola
A white town on a rock jutting into the sea, topped by the Templar castle where âPope Lunaâ lived; âPeñĂscolaâ was an Islamic fortress until 1233 CE.
What to see
Castell del Papa Luna · the walls and white alleys · the lighthouse · El Bufador, a rock opening from which the sea surges · the long northern beach · Sierra de Irta park
My tip
An hour and a half north of Valencia. The castle is open until the evening, and the walk along the walls is superb at sunset.
· Segorbe
An old episcopal city in the Palancia valley, with a medieval water channel of pointed arches, two towers of its wall, a cathedral and a rich religious museum. In Andalusi sources âShubrubâ was part of Valenciaâs territory.
What to see
The medieval water channel and its arches · the âLa CĂĄrcelâ tower and the Gate Tower on the wall · the cathedral and its museum · the Water Trail and the cityâs 50 springs · the âLa Estrellaâ castle overlooking the town
My tip
Combine it with the Salto de la Novia waterfall in Navajas (10 minutes). The Episcopal Museum is closed on Mondays.
· Chelva
A mountain town in the upper Turia valley, keeping its Andalusi quarter of âBenacaciraâ, with narrow winding alleys and white houses decorated with flowers. The âwater routeâ starts here, leading to the Roman Peña Cortada channel carved into the mountain.
What to see
The Andalusi quarter of Benacacira · the MudĂ©jar quarter âArrabalâ · the Water Route and springs · the Roman Peña Cortada channel (medium trail) · an old mosque turned into the âLos Ăngelesâ hermitage
My tip
The Pinya Cortada channel trail takes 3â4 hours; for families the short water trail in the village is enough. Take water in summer.
The largest aquarium complex in Europe, with a long shark tunnel, dolphins, white whales (beluga) and polar birds, spread across buildings in the open air.
My tip
Allow at least half a day; buy online and go in the morning. A combined ticket with the science museum is cheaper.
· Carcaixent
A historic orange grove run by one family for generations in Carcaixent, the cradle of commercial orange growing in Valencia, which inherited the Andalusi irrigation system. You taste dozens of varieties, pick fruit yourself and leave with a bag of it.
My tip
Book online; take the train from Valencia to Carcaixent, then a short taxi ride. Decline the optional âvermouthâ tasting.
An interactive science museum in Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias whose motto is âForbidden not to touchâ: physics experiments, the human body and space, and play areas for little ones, in a building shaped like a whale skeleton.
My tip
A combined ticket with the OceanogrĂ fic and the HemisfĂšric is better value; 3 hours. Some explanations are in Spanish only.
A huge free playground in the Turia gardens shaped like Gulliver lying down, 70 metres long. Children climb over his body and slide down his hair and clothing. Loved by adults and children alike.
My tip
Free; the slides heat up a lot in summer, so go in the morning. It gets crowded at weekends. One to two hours.
An âimmersiveâ zoo that recreates African habitats without visible cages, where you walk among giraffes, elephants and lemurs in scenes that look like the savannah.
My tip
3â4 hours; its restaurant overlooks the giraffes, and check the times of the free talks.
· Venta del Moro
Family rafting on one of the cleanest rivers in Europe, between the rock walls of the âCuchillos del Cabrielâ, with fun, non-dangerous rapids and jumps into the water. About 3 hours with instructors, suitable for children from around 8 years old.
My tip
The best season is April to October; book in advance and bring spare clothes. An hour and a quarter from Valencia.
A mosque built in Islamic architecture near the Mestalla stadium, one of the cityâs most prominent mosques.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually at about 13:30â14:30 (it may slip to 15:00 in summer); check with the mosque beforehand. The sermon is at 14:30, in Arabic, with a brief Spanish translation. There is a prayer area for women.
A long-established centre in the north of the city, with a mosque, a school teaching the Qurâan and Arabic to children, and a womenâs section.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually at about 13:30 to 14:30 (it may slip to 15:00 in summer); check with the centre beforehand. Suitable for resident families; it holds the five daily prayers.
· Valencia (Algirós)
For years Valenciaâs best-known Arab supermarket: lamb and beef mince, halal chicken, Lebanese bread, tahini, rice and dates, with a section of ready-made food.
My tip
Closed on Mondays; orders can be placed in advance so the meat can be prepared.
· Valencia (Quatre Carreres)
A halal butcher and supermarket with excellent reviews, fresh meat and Maghrebi products.
My tip
Open daily with a short break at the time of Friday prayer.
· Valencia (Ruzafa)
A halal butcher in the lively Ruzafa district: halal meat, excellent olives and Moroccan products.
My tip
Open daily until 22:00; some customers find its prices relatively high.
A historic modernist building with a lush inner garden: a quiet oasis near the Turia gardens.
My tip
A 20-minute walk to the old city.
A palace in the old city, where remnants of Valenciaâs Roman and Islamic walls appear in its rooms: a unique historical experience.
My tip
Ask for a room with part of the Andalusi wall.
A 16th-century palace on Plaza de Manises near the cathedral and the Gothic Generalitat building, elegantly restored while keeping its original features; its rooftop overlooks the cathedral dome.
My tip
Its location is ideal for visiting the cathedral and the Silk Exchange (La Lonja).
A small boutique hotel in a historic residential building on a quiet side street near the Palace of the Marquis of Dos Aguas and the Ceramics Museum, in the heart of old Valencia.
My tip
Outside-facing rooms with balconies can be noisy at night; ask for a room on the courtyard.
· Tavernes de la Valldigna
Vans converted by hand with great care (even with a cinema projector) and a full 5.0 rating. The owners suggest ready-made routes along the Valencian coast and mountains, a gentle option for a first camper experience.
My tip
In Tavernes de la Valldigna, south of Valencia; closed Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday, and reception can be arranged from the train station.
· ValÚncia (Camins al Grau)
Modern apartments near Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias in Valencia, suitable for families. Close to the Turia riverside garden and the OceanogrĂ fic aquarium.
My tip
The beach is a short drive or bus ride away. Check the tourist licence number (VUT/ESFCTU) in the listing, and do not transfer money outside the platform; beware of fake Idealista and Facebook offers.
One of the largest fresh-food markets in Europe, in a modernist building with a dome and stained glass (1928), selling fruit, nuts, dates and âhorchataâ juice.
My tip
Opens only in the morning and closes on Sundays (and sometimes other days); go before 10.
Valenciaâs top shopping street, home to El Corte InglĂ©s and Spanish brands, with the modernist Mercado de ColĂłn nearby.
My tip
Its pavements are wide and comfortable; stop by the adjoining Mercado de ColĂłn for its beautiful modernist building.
· Tavernes Blanques
âPorcelain Cityâ, the main headquarters of LladrĂł near Valencia: a museum, a boutique and a tour of the modelling and hand-painting workshops.
My tip
The tour needs advance booking and runs Monday to Friday only; in central Valencia there is another boutique on Poeta Querol.
· Aldaia
The main outlet in the Valencia area, beside the Bonaire shopping centre, with sports and contemporary brands. You can combine it with shopping at the neighbouring centre in one visit.
My tip
Check the closing days before you go (they vary by season); the Nike store there is among the best for discounts.
A masterpiece of Valencian modernist art (1916), built of iron, glass and ceramic mosaic, now a square of cafés and restaurants in the upscale Eixample district.
My tip
Try the cold Valencian âhorchataâ (the âhappiness plantâ drink) with âfartonsâ sweet bread. The place is for sitting and tasting, not shopping. Some shops on the lower floor are closed for renovation in 2026.
The colourful modern market of the Ruzafa district. Valencians go for its fish and fruit, and its prices are lower than at the Central Market of Valencia.
My tip
The Ruzafa district around it has Arab and halal shops and restaurants. Careful: a â1/4â sign on fruit prices means a quarter kilo, not the whole box. Morning market only.
· Gilet
A fitted recreation area on the slope of the Serra Calderona near the Franciscan monastery of Sant Esperit (15th century), with many barbecues, tables, toilets and a playground, and a mountain view that reaches the sea when you climb a little higher; 30 minutes from Valencia.
My tip
The water is not drinkable; in the Valencia region barbecues are banned in recreational areas in summer and on âpre-emergencyâ days at level 3, follow the 112CV alerts; and in general barbecues are banned in many provinces from around 15 May to 15 October, so check the forest fire rules for the province before you go.
· ValÚncia
A spacious square in front of Valencia Cathedral and the Miguelete tower, redesigned in 2022 as a pedestrian zone with trees and benches. It is surrounded by cafés serving horchata (the tiger-nut drink believed to be of Andalusi origin) and fartons.
My tip
Try cold horchata with âfartonsâ at the cafĂ©s around; and from here climb the Miguelete for a view of the old town.
· Serra
A quiet area among the pines in the Serra Calderona park near the village of Serra, with dedicated fireplaces for cooking Valencian paella over wood and wooden tables: ideal for trying Valencian paella the traditional way, outdoors.
My tip
No toilets and no phone signal; the paella stoves are subject to the same fire restrictions: in the Valencia region barbecues are banned in recreational areas in summer and on âpre-emergencyâ days at level 3, follow the 112CV alerts; and in general barbecues are banned in many provinces from around 15 May to 15 October, so check the forest fire rules for the province before you go.
A historic five-star hotel on La Malvarrosa beach, built on seaside baths dating to 1898. It has a spa with a thermal water circuit and outdoor pools overlooking the sea.
My tip
Book the spa circuit with your stay, because entry is in time slots; swimwear and a head covering are required, and children are often not allowed in the circuit area.
One of Valenciaâs oldest horchata shops, operating for nearly two centuries beside the bell tower of Santa Catalina church. Its walls are covered with Manises tiles showing Valencian countryside scenes and the cultivation of chufa, making it a small museum of Valencian ceramics.
My tip
Order cold âhorchataâ with âfartonsâ (long sweet bread for dipping), and in winter chocolate with churros. Summer afternoons are the traditional time.
· Alboraya
Opened in 1949 in Alboraya, the town around which chufa tubers are grown and considered the home of horchata. Its hall, tiled in traditional ceramics, and its terrace among the fields made it the favourite of Valencians on summer evenings.
My tip
Natural âhorchataâ or âgranizadaâ (iced) with âfartonsâ, or horchata mixed with ice cream. Go in the afternoon in summer, or combine it with a walk through the chufa fields.
· Oliva
One of the largest show-jumping centres in Europe, hosting the international Mediterranean Equestrian Tour in spring and autumn, with riders from dozens of countries. Modern facilities, restaurants, a golf resort and hotels nearby.
My tip
Entry and parking are free during competitions; come early in the afternoon to get a good spot. Restaurant prices are fairly high. It is a place for watching and events more than for visitor lessons.
· Valencia (Campanar)
The founding headquarters of the IVI group and its scientific centre, one of the worldâs leading IVF clinics for research and results. Couples come from around the world after failed attempts in their own countries.
My tip
Start with a remote consultation through the international patients department and send your files translated; check that the procedures fit your Sharia requirements. Payment is private, and plan for several visits.
· ValÚncia
A small 24-hour supermarket on Avenida de la Plata (Quatre Carreres district) near Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias.
My tip
One of the few places open all night in Valencia; prices are higher than usual.
· ValÚncia
A 24-hour bakery and pastry shop in the L'Olivereta district, west Valencia.
My tip
Savoury pastries (spinach, vegetable) and fresh bread at any hour.
A historic university founded in 1499, strong in medicine, the sciences, economics and chemistry. Valencia is a coastal city with moderate living costs, suitable for families.
My tip
The teaching languages are Spanish and Valencian; check the language of each class group. Blasco Ibåñez street is the hub of its faculties.
A school in the old quarter of Valencia certified by the Instituto Cervantes, with excellent reviews, reasonable prices, intensive courses, conversation and evening activities.
My tip
You can enrol for one week only; suited to someone spending a holiday in Valencia.
Chapter Four
My view in brief: March to June, and September and October. Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holidayBars: lowest and highest temperature
April12° to 21°
Mild spring (12â21°C). We recommend cycling in the JardĂn del Turia.
Public holidayRegion-wide
Easter Monday
Lunes de Pascua
2026: 6 April · 2027: 29 March
Regional holiday (not observed in Madrid or Andalusia). In Barcelona and Valencia many shops close, and activity returns on Tuesday.
Chapter Five
Where I wouldn't stay
El Carmen and Ruzafa at nightEl Carmen / Ruzafa
Both are lovely by day, but they are the city's nightlife hubs, and the noise continues until dawn at the weekend.
Hotels I recommend in Valencia
Chapter Six
What deserves to come home with you from Valencia: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
Valencian oranges and mandarins
CĂtricos Valencianos IGPSome of the world's most famous citrus: âNavelâ and âNavelinaâ oranges and âclementinaâ mandarins, in season NovemberâApril, and fresh juice in every cafĂ©.
Valencia rice
Arroz de Valencia DOPRice from the Albufera marshes in the âBombaâ, âSeniaâ and âAlbuferaâ varieties, the basis of the authentic paella.
Horchata
Horchata de chufa â Chufa de Valencia DOPA cold, milky drink made from chufa tubers (habb al-aziz, an Arabic-origin word), drunk with long âfartonsâ bread; its tradition goes back to the Andalusi era.
Ribera del XĂșquer persimmon
Kaki Ribera del XĂșquer DOPâRojo Brillanteâ persimmon: firm and sweet, eaten like an apple, in season OctoberâDecember.
Fartons
Long, light sweet bread coated in sugar, the companion of horchata.
Chapter Seven
Valencia has a metro and tram network (Metrovalencia) and EMT buses, and it is a flat city ideal for cycling (Valenbisi) and for walking in the Turia Gardens. From the airport: metro lines 3 and 5 to the centre (XĂ tiva/ColĂłn) in around 20â25 minutes, or a taxi for around 20â25 euros. The rechargeable âSUMAâ card covers the metro and buses, and the âValencia Tourist Cardâ gives unlimited travel with discounts at museums. Uber and Cabify are available. Tips: the high-speed train station âJoaquĂn Sorollaâ is about 10 minutes' walk from the northern station âEstaciĂł del Nordâ in the centre, and the tram reaches the Malvarrosa beaches.
Last reviewed1 October 2026
