Murcia

Valle de Ricote

· Ricote

• Morisco heritage

A valley along the Segura river, with the villages of Ricote, Ojós, Ulea, Blanca, Abarán and others, whose orchards are still watered by Andalusi waterwheels and channels. Its Moriscos were the last to be expelled from Spain (1613–1614), after years of exemption, and Cervantes immortalised their tragedy in the character of the Morisco “Ricote” in Part Two of “Don Quixote”.

Easy to reach · needs a car

By car to move between the valley villages (few buses). The villages are small with parking nearby, and the Abarán waterwheel is beside the road with a short walk. Few restaurants. Hot in summer.

Teatro Romano de Cartagena

· Cartagena

A 1st-century BC Roman theatre discovered buried under an entire neighbourhood in 1988, one of Spain’s most important archaeological finds; the Rafael Moneo museum leads to it through tunnels. Cartagena itself was founded by the Carthaginians as “Qart Hadasht”.

Easy to reach

In the centre of Cartagena, reached by train and bus; the museum takes you down to the theatre by lifts and escalators. Suitable for older people. Paid parking nearby.

Centro de Visitantes de Monteagudo (Castillejo y Castillo)

· Monteagudo (Murcia)

A modern interpretation centre at the foot of the Monteagudo rock explains the “Castillejo”, the palace of Prince Muhammad ibn Sa’d ibn Mardanish with its cross-shaped garden, and the Monteagudo castle on the rock above; one of the most important sites of Andalusi architecture in the 12th century CE.

Catedral de Murcia

• Originally a mosque (confirmed)

Built on the site of the great mosque of Islamic Murcia, starting in 1394. Its Baroque facade (1754) is one of the most magnificent in Spain, and its tower (93 m) is the second-highest church tower in the country. It combines Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles.

Museo de Siyasa

· Cieza

A flourishing Andalusi city between the 11th and 13th centuries, on a hill above the Segura river, abandoned after the fall of Murcia. The museum displays houses reassembled with their plasterwork and Almohad decoration, among the most precious surviving domestic architecture in al-Andalus.

Easy to reach

Buses from Murcia or a car; the museum is in the centre of Cieza on flat ground. The archaeological site on the hill is a steep dirt climb of 30–45 minutes, with no shade or services, and it is often closed to visitors.

Museo de Santa Clara (Alcázar Seguir)

Remains of an Andalusi palace from the 12th and 13th centuries, associated with Muhammad ibn Sa’d ibn Mardanish and later with Ibn Hud, inside the Convent of Santa Clara. Its decorated arches, a pool and a garden survive, and the museum displays pieces from Islamic Murcia.

Parque Regional de Calblanque

· Cartagena

The last pristine, unbuilt coastline in the Murcia region, with fossilised sand dunes, old salt pans and golden coves between the mountains, a few minutes away from the bustle of La Manga.

Moderate effort · needs a car

In summer the dirt roads are closed to cars, and a shuttle bus runs from the outer car park; it is 5–15 minutes’ walk on sand from the car parks. No shade, no water, no services. Intense heat in summer.

Moratalla – Castillo

· Moratalla

A town whose houses rise in terraces on a hill crowned by a 15th-century castle-fortress on Andalusi foundations, in the greenest and most mountainous part of Murcia. Its narrow streets preserve the fabric of the Islamic village.

Moderate effort · needs a car

A steep climb through alleys and steps; unsuitable for strollers. An hour and a half from Murcia.

Palmeral de Orihuela

· Orihuela

The second-largest palm grove in Europe after Elche, planted by the Muslims along with the Andalusi irrigation system, surrounding the city from the north beneath the castle hill. The old town, with its cathedral and seminary, looks down on it from the top of the hill.

Easy to reach

25 minutes from Murcia by train or car, and an hour from Alicante. The palm grove is flat and suitable for pushchairs.

Balneario de Leana

· Los Baños de Fortuna

A historic thermal spa about 25 km north of Murcia, with outdoor thermal pools and a mountain view. A simple rural option for relaxation.

Caravaca de la Cruz – Castillo y Santuario

· Caravaca de la Cruz

A hill town north-west of Murcia, topped by a fortress of Andalusi origin that became the shrine of the “True Cross”. It is one of five cities in the world with a permanent “Holy Year”, and it is famous for the “Caballos del Vino” festival in May, which has nothing to do with drinking but is a race of decorated horses.

Moderate effort · needs a car

A short, very steep climb to the castle, with car parks beneath it; inside the walls it is flat.

Islas Hormigas Diving Club

· Cabo de Palos (La Manga)

The Cabo de Palos and Islas Hormigas marine reserve off Murcia is one of the richest diving sites in the Mediterranean: schools of barracuda, giant grouper and famous shipwrecks.

Moderate effort · needs a car

Departing from the port of Cabo de Palos; parking is difficult in summer. Diving requires a certificate and a level (with currents at times), and there are introductory dives for beginners. It is cancelled when the waves are high.

Santuario de la Fuensanta

· Algezares

A Baroque shrine on the slope of the “El Valle y Carrascoy” regional park south of Murcia, overlooking from above the Huerta of Murcia, the orchard that inherited the Andalusi irrigation system with its channels and waterwheels.

Ascensor Panorámico y Castillo de la Concepción

· Cartagena

A 45 m glass lift rises to Parque Torres and the Castle of La Concepción on the highest hills of Cartagena, where a centre explains the city’s history, with views over the Roman theatre and the natural harbour that has made it a naval base since the Carthaginians.

Mezquita At-Tawba (Murcia)

The community’s prayer room in Murcia.

Carnicería Halal El Boboukhari

A clean halal butcher with tender meat at reasonable prices, plus msemen (leavened flatbread) and kebab.

Carnicería Los Amigos

A halal butcher in the centre of Murcia, with fresh meat and Moroccan and Latin American products.

Palacio San Juan, a Royal Hideaway

• Boutique

The first five-star hotel in the city of Murcia, recently opened in the historic Floridablanca Palace near the cathedral. Refined service and an excellent breakfast.

Grand Hyatt La Manga Club Golf & Spa

· Cartagena

A five-star resort among golf courses near the Mediterranean, about 60 km from Murcia. Spacious suites, swimming pools and breakfast with a view.

Hotel Cetina

• Boutique

A small, elegant hotel in the centre of Murcia, a walk from the cathedral and Trapería street. Some rooms have large terraces.

Hotel Nelva

A large four-star hotel with spacious rooms, luxury bathrooms and a pool, 20 minutes’ walk from the centre. Suitable for families travelling by car.

Barceló Murcia Siete Coronas

A four-star hotel on the bank of the Segura river, near the centre and the cathedral, with a spacious lobby and terrace. Its service is highly praised.

Mercado de Verónicas

Murcia’s historic market (1914–1917) on the bank of the Segura river, with two floors: fish and bakeries on the lower floor, and the vegetables and fruit of the “Murcia orchard” on the upper one.

La Noria Outlet Murcia

An outlet centre on the Cádiz road west of Murcia, with fashion, sports and shoe brands.

Outlet La Serreta

· Molina de Segura

A small outlet centre on the Madrid-Cartagena road in Molina de Segura, north of Murcia.

Balneario de Archena

· Archena

One of the most long-established thermal resorts in Spain, dating back to the Roman and Arab periods, with sulphurous waters that rise at high temperature. It has indoor and outdoor thermal pools, the “Balnea” therapy route and three hotels.

Pastelería Bonache

One of Murcia’s oldest sweet shops, in the Plaza de las Flores in the heart of the old town, run by the same family for decades. It is known for “pastel de carne” (Murcian meat pie) and traditional sweets.