Girona y Costa Brava

A region of extinct volcanoes covered in beech forests near Girona, with the village of Castellfollit de la Roca perched on a basalt cliff, the medieval village of BesalĂș with its stone bridge, and easy walks in the “La Fageda” forest.

When to go
April to June, and October and November for autumn colours
How long you need
2–3 days
For whom
Families and couples
The old town and the cathedral from the walkway on the walls
Photo Nicolas Vigier from Spain · CC0

On this page

Chapter One

The story of Girona y Costa Brava

Jirunda, as Arab geographers called it, was entered by the Muslims during the conquest and remained in their hands until around 785 CE, when the Franks took it. It is known for its walls and its Jewish quarter (Call), one of the best-preserved Jewish quarters in Europe, and the “Costa Brava” coast stretches around it.

Figures of Girona y Costa Brava

  1. 1194–1270

    Nahmanides (Moshe ben Nahman)

    A physician, philosopher and Jewish commentator born in Girona, whose life and the heritage of the community are presented in the “Museum of Jewish History” in the Jewish quarter.

  2. 1860–1909

    Isaac Albéniz

    A composer born in Camprodon in the province of Girona, where a museum bears his name. Among his best-known works is the suite “Iberia”, inspired by al-Andalus.

  3. 1897–1981

    Josep Pla

    The leading writer of Catalan prose, born in Palafrugell on the Costa Brava, where a foundation bears his name.

  4. 1904–1989

    Salvador DalĂ­

    A pioneer of Surrealism, born in Figueres in the province of Girona. There the “DalĂ­ Theatre-Museum” stands, where he is buried; his house at Port Lligat near CadaquĂ©s is also a museum.

Chapter Three

Places in Girona y Costa Brava

117 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.

Heritage and monuments

11
  1. DalĂ­ Theatre-Museum

    · Figueres

    A museum designed by Salvador DalĂ­ himself on the ruins of the town theatre, with giant eggs on the roof and a glass dome, and his tomb inside; a bit like stepping into the mind of Surrealism.

    My tip

    Book your entry time in advance (entry is not allowed before your slot); a combined ticket with the neighbouring Jewellery Museum.

  2. Pont de les Peixateries Velles

    · Girona

    A red iron bridge designed by the Gustave Eiffel company in 1877, from which the most famous picture of Girona is taken: the coloured houses of the Onyar river with the cathedral behind them.

    My tip

    Come in the morning for photos, then at night to see the cathedral lit up.

  3. Call jueu – Museu d'HistĂČria dels Jueus

    · Girona

    El Call is one of the best-preserved medieval Jewish quarters in Europe: narrow stone lanes and winding steps in the heart of old Girona. The museum stands on the site of the last synagogue and tells the community's history up to the expulsion of 1492.

    My tip

    An hour for the museum (about €4, audio guide) and half an hour to wander the alleys (Carrer de la Força). Many stairs; not suitable for pushchairs.

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  4. Ruinas de EmpĂșries (MAC-EmpĂșries)

    · L'Escala

    An archaeological site on the seashore combining a Greek colony founded around 575 BCE with a larger Roman city, with walls, temples and mosaic houses; around it are dunes and pine forests along the coast.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    40 minutes from Girona by car. Relatively flat dirt paths; two hours.

    My tip

    Set aside two hours with the audio guide (QR); bring a hat and water. Afterwards, swim at the quiet Portitxol beach in front of the site.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  5. Muralles de Girona

    · Girona

    A walkway on the Roman and medieval walls that circles the old town, with towers overlooking the cathedral and the Pyrenees; Girona (Jirunda) was in Muslim hands for about seventy years after the conquest (until 785 CE).

    My tip

    Free; start from the cathedral side so that you go down instead of up, as there are many stairs.

  6. Arab Baths

    · Girona

    A bath built at the end of the 12th century by Christians in the style of Andalusi and Roman baths, with a reception hall with an octagon of columns topped by a dome; a witness to the influence of Islamic architecture even after the Muslims had left.

    My tip

    A short visit (20–30 minutes); climb to the roof for a view of the cathedral.

Restaurants and cafés

50
  1. Compartir

    Mediterranean sharing dishes by former elBulli chefs; closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

    • With a view

    TryMediterranean sharing plates: small tortillas, marinated raw fish

    “Mediterranean food for sharing in CadaquĂ©s, by chefs from the El Bulli school.”

    Booking essential · Smart casual · Suits families and children, couples and friends and groups

    Google Maps ↗Restaurant page

  2. El Celler de Can Roca

    Fine dining by the Roca brothers; closed Sundays and Mondays.

    • ★★★ Michelin
    • Romantic

    TryThe Roca brothers' tasting menu

    “Three Michelin stars for the Roca brothers; one of the best restaurants in the world, and it must be booked months ahead.”

    Booking essential · Formal, a jacket preferred · Suits couples and business meetings

    Google Maps ↗Restaurant page

  3. Bo.TiC

    Avant-garde Catalan cuisine by Albert Sastregener; closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

    • ★★ Michelin

    TryTasting menu

    “Two Michelin stars in an old factory in rural Empordà.”

    Booking essential · Formal, a jacket preferred · Suits couples and business meetings

    Google Maps ↗Restaurant page

  4. Els Tinars

    Charcoal-grilled EmpordĂ  cooking and local produce in a country house; open daily.

    • ★ Michelin

    TryCharcoal-grilled meats, EmpordĂ  dishes

    “A family Catalan restaurant in a spacious country house, suitable for families.”

    Booking advised · Smart casual · Suits families and children, business meetings and friends and groups

    Google Maps ↗Restaurant page

  5. Massana

    Classic restaurant for refined Catalan cuisine with Asian touches; closed Sundays and Mondays.

    • ★ Michelin

    TryTasting menu, Catalan dishes with an Asian touch

    “One Michelin star and refined Catalan cooking in Girona.”

    Booking essential · Smart casual · Suits couples and business meetings

    Google Maps ↗Restaurant page

  6. Rocambolesc Gelateria

    Creative ice cream shop by chef Jordi Roca; open daily.

    • Ice cream by the pastry chef of El Celler de Can Roca; a must-visit stop in Girona.

    Signature dishIce cream in the shape of fruit and playful forms by Jordi Roca (pastry chef at El Celler de Can Roca).

    “Creative ice cream by the Roca brothers, loved by children.”

    Everyday clothes · Suits families and children

    Google Maps ↗Restaurant page

Nature and walks

20
  1. Cabanes als Arbres

    · Sant Hilari Sacalm

    Wooden cabins hung in the trees of the Montseny forest, to which breakfast and dinner are hauled up in a basket on a rope—an unforgettable experience for children and adults.

    Moderate effort · needs a car
    By car to the farm car park near Sant Hilari Sacalm (mountain road), then a walk through the forest to the cabin (5–15 minutes) and a climb up wooden stairs to the tree. Not suitable for older people or those with limited mobility. There is no full electricity supply, and the village is 10 minutes away.

    My tip

    Book very early; the lighting in the huts is limited, so bring lamps, and request pork-free meals in advance.

  2. Les Cols Pavellons

    · Olot

    Glass suites designed by the RCR studio, winner of the Pritzker Prize, in the dormant volcanic zone of the Garrotxa near Olot. A unique architectural experience where the boundary between room and nature dissolves.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    On the edge of Olot (about 2 km from the centre). Buses to Olot from Barcelona, but a car is essential for visiting the volcanoes. Private parking; city services are nearby.

    My tip

    This is not for anyone looking for a traditional hotel. Order the included breakfast, which closes the experience, then visit the Santa Margarida volcano and the Fageda d'en JordĂ  forest.

  3. Fageda d'en JordĂ  (La Garrotxa)

    · Olot

    A rare beech forest growing on solidified volcanic lava in the Garrotxa volcanic zone, at an altitude unusually low for beech; its basalt rocks covered with moss give it a legendary air that inspired the poet Joan Margarit.

    Moderate effort · needs a car
    By car to the Can Serra car park; the trail is easy (1–1.5 hours) but not suitable for strollers. No services inside the forest.

    My tip

    An easy path, but unsuitable for pushchairs; combine it with the Santa Margarida crater and the town of Castellfollit.

  4. Platja Gran de Platja d'Aro

    · Platja d'Aro

    A wide beach about two kilometres long, with clean coarse sand and calm water, bordered by a seafront promenade full of restaurants. The centre of life in Platja d'Aro in summer.

    My tip

    Half a day; showers, toilets and umbrella rental. Car parks fill up in July and August, so come early.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  5. Mas Falgarona

    · Avinyonet de Puigventós

    An 11th-century stone country house (mas) in the EmpordĂ  countryside, with a spa, a pool and olive gardens, near Figueres and the Costa Brava beaches.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    By car only, on a short paved country road from Figueres (10 minutes); parking is beside the house. The nearest services (grocery, pharmacy) are in Avinyonet and Figueres, 5–10 minutes away. No practical public transport.

    My tip

    10 minutes from the DalĂ­ museum in Figueres and half an hour from the beaches; suits a small family looking for quiet.

  6. Glamping Vall de CodĂł

    · Terrades

    Equipped tents in a quiet green valley in the EmpordĂ  countryside, within an old stone farm.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    Near Terrades, north of Figueres, by a country road ending in a short dirt track; a car is needed. The village has almost no services; Figueres for shops is 15–20 minutes away. The tramontane wind can be strong at times.

    My tip

    20 minutes from Figueres and half an hour from the Costa Brava beaches.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked

Day trips

9
  1. Camí de Ronda Platja d'Aro – S'Agaró

    · Platja d'Aro / S'Agaró

    A rocky coastal path, one of the most beautiful walks on the Costa Brava: from Cala Rovira and Cala Sa Cosa southwards to S'AgarĂł, Sa Conca beach and the elegant villas of S'AgarĂł, with views over turquoise coves all the way.

    My tip

    1.5–2 hours one way (about 5 km); repeated climbs and descents, not suitable for pushchairs. Start in the morning and carry water, and finish with a swim at Cala Sa Conca.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  2. Platja Gran

    · Cadaqués

    The most beautiful village of the Costa Brava: white houses, fishing boats and crystal-clear water at the far east of Spain, which inspired DalĂ­ and Picasso.

    What to see

    The seafront and the big beach · the white stone-paved lanes · Dalí's house in Port Lligat (by reservation) · Cap de Creus and its lighthouse · the church overlooking the bay

    How to get there
    Sarfa bus from Girona/Figueres (≈1 h 30 min) — by car ≈1 h 15 min
    Easy to reach · needs a car
    By car on a winding mountain road (Sarfa buses are few, from Barcelona and Girona). Paid parking at the entrance to the town, then a 10-minute walk. Pebble beach with cafés. Crowded, and parking is hard in August.

    My tip

    Two and a half hours from Barcelona by a winding mountain road; avoid August, and the beach is pebbly, so take water shoes.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  3. CamĂ­ de Ronda de Calella a Llafranc

    · Calella de Palafrugell

    A fishing village with white arches and small coves, from which the coastal path “Camí de Ronda” runs between the rocks and pines as far as Llafranc; the most beautiful part of the Costa Brava.

    What to see

    The CamĂ­ de Ronda walk to Llafranc · the “Els Porxos” arches on the harbour · the “Cap Roig” botanical gardens · the Sant SebastiĂ  lighthouse and its lookout · the small rocky coves

    How to get there
    Sarfa bus from Girona to Palafrugell (≈1 h), then walk — by car ≈45 min
    Moderate effort · needs a car
    A car is practically needed (few buses to Palafrugell). A coastal path of about 1.5–2 km with steps up and down and rocks, 30–40 minutes each way; not suitable for strollers. Little shade; cafĂ©s in both towns. Paid parking fills up in summer.

    My tip

    The distance is about 30–40 minutes on foot and easy; best in the morning or before sunset.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  4. Murallas de la Vila Vella

    · Tossa de Mar

    The only fortified town left on the Catalan coast: medieval walls and towers embrace the beach and overlook the sea.

    What to see

    The old town with its walls and towers · the lighthouse and its lookout · the big beach below the walls · the municipal museum · the ruins of the Roman villa “Els Ametllers” · the CamĂ­ de Ronda walk

    How to get there
    Bus from Girona or Barcelona (≈1 h) — by car ≈45 min
    Moderate effort
    A bus from Barcelona (about 1 hour 30 minutes) or a car with paid parking. The walled town sits on a hill with steep stone lanes and steps up to the lighthouse; hard going with strollers. Restaurants, cafés and a beach beside it.

    My tip

    Free and always open; an hour and a half from Barcelona, and the golden light before sunset is good for photos.

  5. BesalĂș Bridge

    · BesalĂș

    A preserved medieval town, entered over a fortified 11th-century stone bridge across the FluviĂ  river; it has a Jewish quarter and a rare mikveh (ritual bath).

    What to see

    The fortified stone bridge · the Jewish quarter and the mikveh (ritual bath) · Plaça de la Llibertat and its arcades · Sant Pere monastery · the medieval lanes

    How to get there
    Teisa bus from Girona (≈40 min) — by car ≈35 min
    Easy to reach · needs a car
    Mainly by car (few buses from Girona). Park at the bridge, then a short walk; the bridge is paved and sloping, and the town is small. Cafés and restaurants. Crowded on holidays.

    My tip

    35 minutes from Girona; come early before its alleys fill up.

  6. Torre de les Hores

    · Pals

    A golden stone village on a hill, topped by the 13th-century “Clock Tower”, overlooking the rice fields and the sea in the Empordà area.

    What to see

    The Clock Tower · the walled Gothic quarter and its lanes · the “Josep Pla” lookout over the plain and the Medes Islands · the rice fields · Pals beach

    How to get there
    Sarfa bus from Girona (≈1 h) — by car ≈40 min
    Easy to reach · needs a car
    By car. Park below the old quarter, then climb for 5–10 minutes through steep stone lanes to the tower. A few restaurants. Parking is hard in summer.

    My tip

    Easily combined with Calella de Palafrugell on the same day; the tower is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked

Experiences and family

11
  1. Diving Center La Sirena

    · L'Estartit

    The Medes Islands off L'Estartit have been a marine reserve since the 1980s, and are Spain's most famous diving site on the Mediterranean: huge, unafraid groupers, tunnels and sea caves, and Posidonia meadows.

    Moderate effort
    Boats leave from the port of L'Estartit (bus from Girona/Torroella). Diving requires a booking and a certificate or a trial course, within age limits. Cancelled in easterly wind. Paid parking in summer.

    My tip

    The best periods are June to October; the water is fairly cold, so request a 7 mm suit. Non-divers can take a trip on a glass-bottomed boat.

  2. Vol de Coloms – vuelo en globo por la Garrotxa

    · Santa Pau / Olot

    A hot-air balloon flight at dawn over the dormant volcanoes, forests and stone villages, with views of the Pyrenean peaks. It usually ends with a country breakfast of local produce.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    An hour from Girona. Meeting point at dawn near the Croscat volcano; climbing into the basket is aided by a small ladder.

    My tip

    Book ahead; the flight is postponed if the wind is unsuitable. A traditional cava toast is served, so ask for juice instead. Children are generally accepted from about 6 years old or a certain height (ask the company).

  3. Cremallera y Vall de NĂșria

    · Queralbs

    A mountain rack railway climbs for 40 minutes through Pyrenean gorges to the NĂșria valley, which is closed to cars. There you will find a lake, a shrine, a cable car and family activities. In winter it becomes a small ski area suitable for beginners and children.

    Easy to reach
    Two hours from Barcelona to Ribes de Freser or Queralbs by car or R3 train, then the rack railway; the valley is flat around the lake.

    My tip

    Buy tickets online; at the top there are rowing boats on the lake, a children's park and easy trails. The return trip gets crowded late in the day, so don't be late.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  4. Tourist Service Llafranc (Kayak Costa Brava)

    · Llafranc

    Guided kayak tours on the most beautiful stretch of the Costa Brava between Llafranc and Calella de Palafrugell: rocky coves, sea caves and turquoise water, with snorkelling in a secluded bay.

    Moderate effort
    Departure from Llafranc beach (bus from Palafrugell). Paddling for 2–3 hours on open sea needs moderate fitness; it is cancelled in wind and waves. Parking in Llafranc is difficult and paid in summer.

    My tip

    The tour takes about two and a half hours and includes snorkelling gear; combine it with the CamĂ­ de Ronda walkway between the two villages. Best in the morning before the wind picks up.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  5. Skydive Empuriabrava

    · Empuriabrava

    One of the world’s best-known skydiving centres: you jump above the Empuriabrava canals, the Roses bay and the foothills of the Pyrenees, and from the air you can see the Greek and Roman ruins of EmpĂșries.

    Easy to reach · needs a car
    A small airfield in Empuriabrava with a car park and a café. Tandem jumping needs no physical effort, but has weight and age limits. Jumps are postponed for weather, and waits can run for hours.

    My tip

    The tandem jump requires no experience; set aside half a day, because the weather may delay the appointment.

  6. EstaciĂł d'EsquĂ­ i Muntanya de Masella

    · Masella (Alp)

    A resort on the Cerdanya plain in the Catalan Pyrenees, linked to the neighbouring La Molina resort within the “Alp 2500” area. Known for night skiing and one of the longest seasons in the Pyrenees (December–April). Slopes for all levels make it suitable for families.

    Moderate effort · needs a car
    From Alp (Cerdanya) by mountain road to the station car park; R3 train to La Molina/PuigcerdĂ , then a seasonal bus. Snow chains. Full services at the station.

    My tip

    About two hours by car from Barcelona; buy the ticket online and arrive early on weekends.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked

Mosques and halal

2
  1. Mesquita Bilal Girona

    · Girona

    The community mosque inside the city of Girona, near the centre.

    My tip

    Friday prayer is usually between about 13:30 and 14:30 (it may run to 15:00 in summer); check the mosque before then. Its doors open close to prayer times. For the largest mosque in the area, go to the Mosque of Imam Malik in nearby Salt.

    Google Maps ↗Place pageIts location on our map is being checked
  2. Centre IslĂ mic Imam Malik (Salt)

    · Salt

    A large air-conditioned mosque in the town of Salt next to Girona, which holds the five daily prayers, Friday prayer and Eid prayer.

    My tip

    Friday prayer is usually between about 13:30 and 14:30 (it may run to 15:00 in summer); check the mosque before then. On Fridays it starts at about 13:15 in winter and 13:30 in summer, depending on the congregation. There is a prayer room for women on the upper floor and spacious parking.

Where to stay

11
  1. Nord 1901

    · Girona

    • One of the city's best hotels

    A boutique hotel on the edge of the old town with a garden and a pool; the best base for exploring Girona.

    My tip

    A short walk from the high-speed train station to Barcelona.

  2. Elisabeth by the Sea

    · Tossa de Mar

    • I stayed here in 2026

    A modern five-star boutique hotel on the seafront of Tossa de Mar on the Costa Brava, with a rooftop and a pool overlooking the sea and the old town.

  3. Mas de Torrent Hotel & Spa

    · Torrent

    • One of the city's best hotels
    • Romantic

    An 18th-century Catalan farmhouse converted into a luxury country resort near the beaches of the Costa Brava.

    My tip

    It is 35 minutes from Girona; suits relaxing and boat trips.

  4. Hostal de la Gavina

    · S'Agaró

    • One of the city's best hotels
    • Romantic

    A grand historic hotel (since 1932) on a rocky headland above the Sa Conca bay in S'AgarĂł on the Costa Brava, with lush gardens, a coastal walk and magnificent sea views.

  5. Hotel Castell d'EmpordĂ 

    · La Bisbal d'Empordà

    • One of the city's best hotels
    • Romantic

    A medieval castle converted into a boutique hotel on a hill overlooking the EmpordĂ  plains and medieval villages; a favourite for weddings and romantic holidays.

  6. CĂ mping Begur

    · Begur

    A large campsite among pine trees near the castle town of Begur, in the middle of the most beautiful bays of the Costa Brava (Aigua Blava, Sa Tuna, Sa Riera); one of the best-rated campsites on the coast.

    My tip

    Small beach car parks cannot fit camper vans; use the bus or a bike from the campsite, as Costa Brava municipalities prohibit overnight stays outside campsites.

Shopping

1
  1. Rambla de la Llibertat

    · Girona

    The elegant street between stone arcades on the bank of the Onyar, full of cafés and shops, from which the coloured houses overlooking the river can be seen. The heart of daily life in Girona.

    My tip

    30–60 minutes; flat. Cross from it to the Eiffel Bridge (the red bridge) for the most famous photo of the colourful houses.

Relaxation

1
  1. Balneario Vichy CatalĂĄn

    · Caldes de Malavella

    A historic spa resort from 1881 in MudĂ©jar style in Caldes de Malavella near Girona, source of the famous sparkling water “Vichy CatalĂĄn”. The building is lovely, but the rooms need renovating and the restaurant is weak.

    My tip

    Near the motorway and Girona airport; suits a night of relaxation and massage more than a long stay, and the spa is not for children.

Services

1
  1. Camiral Golf & Wellness (antes PGA Catalunya)

    · Caldes de Malavella

    The best golf resort in Spain according to several rankings, with the “Stadium” and “Tour” courses and the National PGA Academy of Spain. A five-star hotel and family-friendly spa near Girona.

    My tip

    Open to visitors, with tee times booked on the website; the “Stadium” course is harder and requires a handicap. Academy lessons are available for beginners and children. Hotel guests get priority booking.

Chapter Four

When to go to Girona y Costa Brava

My view in brief: April to June, and October and November for autumn colours. Pick a month to see its weather and events.

Among my best months An event or holiday

January

No events listed in January. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.

Chapter Five

Where to stay in Girona y Costa Brava

From my own stays

  • Elisabeth by the Sea

    I stayed here in 2026★★★★★

    A modern five-star boutique hotel on the seafront of Tossa de Mar on the Costa Brava, with a rooftop and a pool overlooking the sea and the old town.

Hotels I recommend in Girona y Costa Brava

  • Nord 1901 ★★★★
  • Mas de Torrent Hotel & Spa ★★★★★
  • Hostal de la Gavina ★★★★★
  • Hotel Castell d'EmpordĂ  ★★★★

Chapter Six

What to bring home

What deserves to come home with you from Girona y Costa Brava: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.

  • IGP

    Girona apples

    Poma de Girona IGP

    A protected apple from the Empordà plain; its best-known varieties are “Golden”, “Fuji” and “Gala”, crisp and balanced in sweetness and acidity. In season from September until spring.

  • DOP

    EmpordĂ  oil

    Aceite de l'EmpordĂ  DOP

    A protected oil made from the local “Argudell” and “Corivell” varieties together with “Arbequina”, with almond and artichoke flavours; rare outside the region.

  • L'Escala anchovies

    Anchoas de l'Escala

    Salted and aged the traditional way in the town of L'Escala on the Costa Brava, among the most famous anchovies in the Mediterranean; sold canned in olive oil.

  • PalamĂłs prawns

    Gamba de PalamĂłs

    Fine red prawns from the port of PalamĂłs, grilled with salt only; their best season is spring and summer.

  • Girona xuixo

    Xuixo de Girona

    A fried dough filled with cream and sprinkled with sugar, the symbol of Girona's sweets.

  • Pals rice

    ArrĂČs de Pals

    Rice grown on the Pals plain in the EmpordĂ , suitable for seafood rice dishes; sold in pretty cloth bags as gifts.

Chapter Seven

Getting around Girona y Costa Brava

Last reviewed1 October 2026

Trips from Girona y Costa Brava

Costa Brava

“The rugged coast” north of Barcelona: rocky coves among pine forests and the CamĂ­ de Ronda coastal path, white villages such as CadaquĂ©s and Calella de Palafrugell, the walled town of Tossa de Mar, with Girona nearby.

June to September · 3–5 days