Girona y Costa Brava
A region of extinct volcanoes covered in beech forests near Girona, with the village of Castellfollit de la Roca perched on a basalt cliff, the medieval village of BesalĂș with its stone bridge, and easy walks in the âLa Fagedaâ forest.
- When to go
- April to June, and October and November for autumn colours
- How long you need
- 2â3 days
- For whom
- Families and couples
Chapter One
The story of Girona y Costa Brava
Jirunda, as Arab geographers called it, was entered by the Muslims during the conquest and remained in their hands until around 785 CE, when the Franks took it. It is known for its walls and its Jewish quarter (Call), one of the best-preserved Jewish quarters in Europe, and the âCosta Bravaâ coast stretches around it.
Figures of Girona y Costa Brava
- 1194â1270
Nahmanides (Moshe ben Nahman)
A physician, philosopher and Jewish commentator born in Girona, whose life and the heritage of the community are presented in the âMuseum of Jewish Historyâ in the Jewish quarter.
- 1860â1909
Isaac Albéniz
A composer born in Camprodon in the province of Girona, where a museum bears his name. Among his best-known works is the suite âIberiaâ, inspired by al-Andalus.
- 1897â1981
Josep Pla
The leading writer of Catalan prose, born in Palafrugell on the Costa Brava, where a foundation bears his name.
- 1904â1989
Salvador DalĂ
A pioneer of Surrealism, born in Figueres in the province of Girona. There the âDalĂ Theatre-Museumâ stands, where he is buried; his house at Port Lligat near CadaquĂ©s is also a museum.
Chapter Two
Ready-made trips
2 walking routes I drew myself in Girona y Costa Brava, with the places to pray and eat where I marked them.
Chapter Three
Places in Girona y Costa Brava
117 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
Heritage and monuments
11DalĂ Theatre-Museum
· Figueres
A museum designed by Salvador DalĂ himself on the ruins of the town theatre, with giant eggs on the roof and a glass dome, and his tomb inside; a bit like stepping into the mind of Surrealism.
My tip
Book your entry time in advance (entry is not allowed before your slot); a combined ticket with the neighbouring Jewellery Museum.
Pont de les Peixateries Velles
· Girona
A red iron bridge designed by the Gustave Eiffel company in 1877, from which the most famous picture of Girona is taken: the coloured houses of the Onyar river with the cathedral behind them.
My tip
Come in the morning for photos, then at night to see the cathedral lit up.
Call jueu â Museu d'HistĂČria dels Jueus
· Girona
El Call is one of the best-preserved medieval Jewish quarters in Europe: narrow stone lanes and winding steps in the heart of old Girona. The museum stands on the site of the last synagogue and tells the community's history up to the expulsion of 1492.
My tip
An hour for the museum (about âŹ4, audio guide) and half an hour to wander the alleys (Carrer de la Força). Many stairs; not suitable for pushchairs.
Ruinas de EmpĂșries (MAC-EmpĂșries)
· L'Escala
An archaeological site on the seashore combining a Greek colony founded around 575 BCE with a larger Roman city, with walls, temples and mosaic houses; around it are dunes and pine forests along the coast.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- 40 minutes from Girona by car. Relatively flat dirt paths; two hours.
My tip
Set aside two hours with the audio guide (QR); bring a hat and water. Afterwards, swim at the quiet Portitxol beach in front of the site.
Muralles de Girona
· Girona
A walkway on the Roman and medieval walls that circles the old town, with towers overlooking the cathedral and the Pyrenees; Girona (Jirunda) was in Muslim hands for about seventy years after the conquest (until 785 CE).
My tip
Free; start from the cathedral side so that you go down instead of up, as there are many stairs.
Arab Baths
· Girona
A bath built at the end of the 12th century by Christians in the style of Andalusi and Roman baths, with a reception hall with an octagon of columns topped by a dome; a witness to the influence of Islamic architecture even after the Muslims had left.
My tip
A short visit (20â30 minutes); climb to the roof for a view of the cathedral.
Restaurants and cafés
50Compartir
Mediterranean sharing dishes by former elBulli chefs; closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
- With a view
TryMediterranean sharing plates: small tortillas, marinated raw fish
âMediterranean food for sharing in CadaquĂ©s, by chefs from the El Bulli school.â
Booking essential · Smart casual · Suits families and children, couples and friends and groups
El Celler de Can Roca
Fine dining by the Roca brothers; closed Sundays and Mondays.
- â â â Michelin
- Romantic
TryThe Roca brothers' tasting menu
âThree Michelin stars for the Roca brothers; one of the best restaurants in the world, and it must be booked months ahead.â
Booking essential · Formal, a jacket preferred · Suits couples and business meetings
Bo.TiC
Avant-garde Catalan cuisine by Albert Sastregener; closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
- â â Michelin
TryTasting menu
âTwo Michelin stars in an old factory in rural EmpordĂ .â
Booking essential · Formal, a jacket preferred · Suits couples and business meetings
Els Tinars
Charcoal-grilled EmpordĂ cooking and local produce in a country house; open daily.
- â Michelin
TryCharcoal-grilled meats, EmpordĂ dishes
âA family Catalan restaurant in a spacious country house, suitable for families.â
Booking advised · Smart casual · Suits families and children, business meetings and friends and groups
Massana
Classic restaurant for refined Catalan cuisine with Asian touches; closed Sundays and Mondays.
- â Michelin
TryTasting menu, Catalan dishes with an Asian touch
âOne Michelin star and refined Catalan cooking in Girona.â
Booking essential · Smart casual · Suits couples and business meetings
Rocambolesc Gelateria
Creative ice cream shop by chef Jordi Roca; open daily.
- Ice cream by the pastry chef of El Celler de Can Roca; a must-visit stop in Girona.
Signature dishIce cream in the shape of fruit and playful forms by Jordi Roca (pastry chef at El Celler de Can Roca).
âCreative ice cream by the Roca brothers, loved by children.â
Everyday clothes · Suits families and children
Nature and walks
20Cabanes als Arbres
· Sant Hilari Sacalm
Wooden cabins hung in the trees of the Montseny forest, to which breakfast and dinner are hauled up in a basket on a ropeâan unforgettable experience for children and adults.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- By car to the farm car park near Sant Hilari Sacalm (mountain road), then a walk through the forest to the cabin (5â15 minutes) and a climb up wooden stairs to the tree. Not suitable for older people or those with limited mobility. There is no full electricity supply, and the village is 10 minutes away.
My tip
Book very early; the lighting in the huts is limited, so bring lamps, and request pork-free meals in advance.
Les Cols Pavellons
· Olot
Glass suites designed by the RCR studio, winner of the Pritzker Prize, in the dormant volcanic zone of the Garrotxa near Olot. A unique architectural experience where the boundary between room and nature dissolves.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- On the edge of Olot (about 2 km from the centre). Buses to Olot from Barcelona, but a car is essential for visiting the volcanoes. Private parking; city services are nearby.
My tip
This is not for anyone looking for a traditional hotel. Order the included breakfast, which closes the experience, then visit the Santa Margarida volcano and the Fageda d'en JordĂ forest.
Fageda d'en JordĂ (La Garrotxa)
· Olot
A rare beech forest growing on solidified volcanic lava in the Garrotxa volcanic zone, at an altitude unusually low for beech; its basalt rocks covered with moss give it a legendary air that inspired the poet Joan Margarit.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- By car to the Can Serra car park; the trail is easy (1â1.5 hours) but not suitable for strollers. No services inside the forest.
My tip
An easy path, but unsuitable for pushchairs; combine it with the Santa Margarida crater and the town of Castellfollit.
Platja Gran de Platja d'Aro
· Platja d'Aro
A wide beach about two kilometres long, with clean coarse sand and calm water, bordered by a seafront promenade full of restaurants. The centre of life in Platja d'Aro in summer.
My tip
Half a day; showers, toilets and umbrella rental. Car parks fill up in July and August, so come early.
Mas Falgarona
· Avinyonet de Puigventós
An 11th-century stone country house (mas) in the EmpordĂ countryside, with a spa, a pool and olive gardens, near Figueres and the Costa Brava beaches.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car only, on a short paved country road from Figueres (10 minutes); parking is beside the house. The nearest services (grocery, pharmacy) are in Avinyonet and Figueres, 5â10 minutes away. No practical public transport.
My tip
10 minutes from the DalĂ museum in Figueres and half an hour from the beaches; suits a small family looking for quiet.
Glamping Vall de CodĂł
· Terrades
Equipped tents in a quiet green valley in the EmpordĂ countryside, within an old stone farm.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Near Terrades, north of Figueres, by a country road ending in a short dirt track; a car is needed. The village has almost no services; Figueres for shops is 15â20 minutes away. The tramontane wind can be strong at times.
My tip
20 minutes from Figueres and half an hour from the Costa Brava beaches.
Day trips
9CamĂ de Ronda Platja d'Aro â S'AgarĂł
· Platja d'Aro / S'Agaró
A rocky coastal path, one of the most beautiful walks on the Costa Brava: from Cala Rovira and Cala Sa Cosa southwards to S'AgarĂł, Sa Conca beach and the elegant villas of S'AgarĂł, with views over turquoise coves all the way.
My tip
1.5â2 hours one way (about 5 km); repeated climbs and descents, not suitable for pushchairs. Start in the morning and carry water, and finish with a swim at Cala Sa Conca.
Platja Gran
· Cadaqués
The most beautiful village of the Costa Brava: white houses, fishing boats and crystal-clear water at the far east of Spain, which inspired DalĂ and Picasso.
What to see
The seafront and the big beach · the white stone-paved lanes · DalĂ's house in Port Lligat (by reservation) · Cap de Creus and its lighthouse · the church overlooking the bay
- How to get there
- Sarfa bus from Girona/Figueres (â1 h 30 min) â by car â1 h 15 min
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car on a winding mountain road (Sarfa buses are few, from Barcelona and Girona). Paid parking at the entrance to the town, then a 10-minute walk. Pebble beach with cafés. Crowded, and parking is hard in August.
My tip
Two and a half hours from Barcelona by a winding mountain road; avoid August, and the beach is pebbly, so take water shoes.
CamĂ de Ronda de Calella a Llafranc
· Calella de Palafrugell
A fishing village with white arches and small coves, from which the coastal path âCamĂ de Rondaâ runs between the rocks and pines as far as Llafranc; the most beautiful part of the Costa Brava.
What to see
The CamĂ de Ronda walk to Llafranc · the âEls Porxosâ arches on the harbour · the âCap Roigâ botanical gardens · the Sant SebastiĂ lighthouse and its lookout · the small rocky coves
- How to get there
- Sarfa bus from Girona to Palafrugell (â1 h), then walk â by car â45 min
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- A car is practically needed (few buses to Palafrugell). A coastal path of about 1.5â2 km with steps up and down and rocks, 30â40 minutes each way; not suitable for strollers. Little shade; cafĂ©s in both towns. Paid parking fills up in summer.
My tip
The distance is about 30â40 minutes on foot and easy; best in the morning or before sunset.
Murallas de la Vila Vella
· Tossa de Mar
The only fortified town left on the Catalan coast: medieval walls and towers embrace the beach and overlook the sea.
What to see
The old town with its walls and towers · the lighthouse and its lookout · the big beach below the walls · the municipal museum · the ruins of the Roman villa âEls Ametllersâ · the CamĂ de Ronda walk
- How to get there
- Bus from Girona or Barcelona (â1 h) â by car â45 min
- Moderate effort
- A bus from Barcelona (about 1 hour 30 minutes) or a car with paid parking. The walled town sits on a hill with steep stone lanes and steps up to the lighthouse; hard going with strollers. Restaurants, cafés and a beach beside it.
My tip
Free and always open; an hour and a half from Barcelona, and the golden light before sunset is good for photos.
BesalĂș Bridge
· BesalĂș
A preserved medieval town, entered over a fortified 11th-century stone bridge across the FluviĂ river; it has a Jewish quarter and a rare mikveh (ritual bath).
What to see
The fortified stone bridge · the Jewish quarter and the mikveh (ritual bath) · Plaça de la Llibertat and its arcades · Sant Pere monastery · the medieval lanes
- How to get there
- Teisa bus from Girona (â40 min) â by car â35 min
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Mainly by car (few buses from Girona). Park at the bridge, then a short walk; the bridge is paved and sloping, and the town is small. Cafés and restaurants. Crowded on holidays.
My tip
35 minutes from Girona; come early before its alleys fill up.
Torre de les Hores
· Pals
A golden stone village on a hill, topped by the 13th-century âClock Towerâ, overlooking the rice fields and the sea in the EmpordĂ area.
What to see
The Clock Tower · the walled Gothic quarter and its lanes · the âJosep Plaâ lookout over the plain and the Medes Islands · the rice fields · Pals beach
- How to get there
- Sarfa bus from Girona (â1 h) â by car â40 min
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car. Park below the old quarter, then climb for 5â10 minutes through steep stone lanes to the tower. A few restaurants. Parking is hard in summer.
My tip
Easily combined with Calella de Palafrugell on the same day; the tower is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
Experiences and family
11Diving Center La Sirena
· L'Estartit
The Medes Islands off L'Estartit have been a marine reserve since the 1980s, and are Spain's most famous diving site on the Mediterranean: huge, unafraid groupers, tunnels and sea caves, and Posidonia meadows.
- Moderate effort
- Boats leave from the port of L'Estartit (bus from Girona/Torroella). Diving requires a booking and a certificate or a trial course, within age limits. Cancelled in easterly wind. Paid parking in summer.
My tip
The best periods are June to October; the water is fairly cold, so request a 7 mm suit. Non-divers can take a trip on a glass-bottomed boat.
Vol de Coloms â vuelo en globo por la Garrotxa
· Santa Pau / Olot
A hot-air balloon flight at dawn over the dormant volcanoes, forests and stone villages, with views of the Pyrenean peaks. It usually ends with a country breakfast of local produce.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- An hour from Girona. Meeting point at dawn near the Croscat volcano; climbing into the basket is aided by a small ladder.
My tip
Book ahead; the flight is postponed if the wind is unsuitable. A traditional cava toast is served, so ask for juice instead. Children are generally accepted from about 6 years old or a certain height (ask the company).
Cremallera y Vall de NĂșria
· Queralbs
A mountain rack railway climbs for 40 minutes through Pyrenean gorges to the NĂșria valley, which is closed to cars. There you will find a lake, a shrine, a cable car and family activities. In winter it becomes a small ski area suitable for beginners and children.
- Easy to reach
- Two hours from Barcelona to Ribes de Freser or Queralbs by car or R3 train, then the rack railway; the valley is flat around the lake.
My tip
Buy tickets online; at the top there are rowing boats on the lake, a children's park and easy trails. The return trip gets crowded late in the day, so don't be late.
Tourist Service Llafranc (Kayak Costa Brava)
· Llafranc
Guided kayak tours on the most beautiful stretch of the Costa Brava between Llafranc and Calella de Palafrugell: rocky coves, sea caves and turquoise water, with snorkelling in a secluded bay.
- Moderate effort
- Departure from Llafranc beach (bus from Palafrugell). Paddling for 2â3 hours on open sea needs moderate fitness; it is cancelled in wind and waves. Parking in Llafranc is difficult and paid in summer.
My tip
The tour takes about two and a half hours and includes snorkelling gear; combine it with the CamĂ de Ronda walkway between the two villages. Best in the morning before the wind picks up.
Skydive Empuriabrava
· Empuriabrava
One of the worldâs best-known skydiving centres: you jump above the Empuriabrava canals, the Roses bay and the foothills of the Pyrenees, and from the air you can see the Greek and Roman ruins of EmpĂșries.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- A small airfield in Empuriabrava with a car park and a café. Tandem jumping needs no physical effort, but has weight and age limits. Jumps are postponed for weather, and waits can run for hours.
My tip
The tandem jump requires no experience; set aside half a day, because the weather may delay the appointment.
EstaciĂł d'EsquĂ i Muntanya de Masella
· Masella (Alp)
A resort on the Cerdanya plain in the Catalan Pyrenees, linked to the neighbouring La Molina resort within the âAlp 2500â area. Known for night skiing and one of the longest seasons in the Pyrenees (DecemberâApril). Slopes for all levels make it suitable for families.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- From Alp (Cerdanya) by mountain road to the station car park; R3 train to La Molina/PuigcerdĂ , then a seasonal bus. Snow chains. Full services at the station.
My tip
About two hours by car from Barcelona; buy the ticket online and arrive early on weekends.
Mosques and halal
2Mesquita Bilal Girona
· Girona
The community mosque inside the city of Girona, near the centre.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually between about 13:30 and 14:30 (it may run to 15:00 in summer); check the mosque before then. Its doors open close to prayer times. For the largest mosque in the area, go to the Mosque of Imam Malik in nearby Salt.
Centre IslĂ mic Imam Malik (Salt)
· Salt
A large air-conditioned mosque in the town of Salt next to Girona, which holds the five daily prayers, Friday prayer and Eid prayer.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually between about 13:30 and 14:30 (it may run to 15:00 in summer); check the mosque before then. On Fridays it starts at about 13:15 in winter and 13:30 in summer, depending on the congregation. There is a prayer room for women on the upper floor and spacious parking.
Where to stay
11Nord 1901
· Girona
- One of the city's best hotels
A boutique hotel on the edge of the old town with a garden and a pool; the best base for exploring Girona.
My tip
A short walk from the high-speed train station to Barcelona.
Elisabeth by the Sea
· Tossa de Mar
- I stayed here in 2026
A modern five-star boutique hotel on the seafront of Tossa de Mar on the Costa Brava, with a rooftop and a pool overlooking the sea and the old town.
Mas de Torrent Hotel & Spa
· Torrent
- One of the city's best hotels
- Romantic
An 18th-century Catalan farmhouse converted into a luxury country resort near the beaches of the Costa Brava.
My tip
It is 35 minutes from Girona; suits relaxing and boat trips.
Hostal de la Gavina
· S'Agaró
- One of the city's best hotels
- Romantic
A grand historic hotel (since 1932) on a rocky headland above the Sa Conca bay in S'AgarĂł on the Costa Brava, with lush gardens, a coastal walk and magnificent sea views.
Hotel Castell d'EmpordĂ
· La Bisbal d'EmpordĂ
- One of the city's best hotels
- Romantic
A medieval castle converted into a boutique hotel on a hill overlooking the EmpordĂ plains and medieval villages; a favourite for weddings and romantic holidays.
CĂ mping Begur
· Begur
A large campsite among pine trees near the castle town of Begur, in the middle of the most beautiful bays of the Costa Brava (Aigua Blava, Sa Tuna, Sa Riera); one of the best-rated campsites on the coast.
My tip
Small beach car parks cannot fit camper vans; use the bus or a bike from the campsite, as Costa Brava municipalities prohibit overnight stays outside campsites.
Shopping
1Rambla de la Llibertat
· Girona
The elegant street between stone arcades on the bank of the Onyar, full of cafés and shops, from which the coloured houses overlooking the river can be seen. The heart of daily life in Girona.
My tip
30â60 minutes; flat. Cross from it to the Eiffel Bridge (the red bridge) for the most famous photo of the colourful houses.
Relaxation
1Balneario Vichy CatalĂĄn
· Caldes de Malavella
A historic spa resort from 1881 in MudĂ©jar style in Caldes de Malavella near Girona, source of the famous sparkling water âVichy CatalĂĄnâ. The building is lovely, but the rooms need renovating and the restaurant is weak.
My tip
Near the motorway and Girona airport; suits a night of relaxation and massage more than a long stay, and the spa is not for children.
Services
1Camiral Golf & Wellness (antes PGA Catalunya)
· Caldes de Malavella
The best golf resort in Spain according to several rankings, with the âStadiumâ and âTourâ courses and the National PGA Academy of Spain. A five-star hotel and family-friendly spa near Girona.
My tip
Open to visitors, with tee times booked on the website; the âStadiumâ course is harder and requires a handicap. Academy lessons are available for beginners and children. Hotel guests get priority booking.
Chapter Four
When to go to Girona y Costa Brava
My view in brief: April to June, and October and November for autumn colours. Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holiday
January
No events listed in January. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Five
Where to stay in Girona y Costa Brava
From my own stays
- Elisabeth by the Sea
I stayed here in 2026â â â â â
A modern five-star boutique hotel on the seafront of Tossa de Mar on the Costa Brava, with a rooftop and a pool overlooking the sea and the old town.
Hotels I recommend in Girona y Costa Brava
- Nord 1901 â â â â
- Mas de Torrent Hotel & Spa â â â â â
- Hostal de la Gavina â â â â â
- Hotel Castell d'EmpordĂ â â â â
Chapter Six
What to bring home
What deserves to come home with you from Girona y Costa Brava: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
- IGP
Girona apples
Poma de Girona IGPA protected apple from the EmpordĂ plain; its best-known varieties are âGoldenâ, âFujiâ and âGalaâ, crisp and balanced in sweetness and acidity. In season from September until spring.
- DOP
EmpordĂ oil
Aceite de l'EmpordĂ DOPA protected oil made from the local âArgudellâ and âCorivellâ varieties together with âArbequinaâ, with almond and artichoke flavours; rare outside the region.
L'Escala anchovies
Anchoas de l'EscalaSalted and aged the traditional way in the town of L'Escala on the Costa Brava, among the most famous anchovies in the Mediterranean; sold canned in olive oil.
PalamĂłs prawns
Gamba de PalamĂłsFine red prawns from the port of PalamĂłs, grilled with salt only; their best season is spring and summer.
Girona xuixo
Xuixo de GironaA fried dough filled with cream and sprinkled with sugar, the symbol of Girona's sweets.
Pals rice
ArrĂČs de PalsRice grown on the Pals plain in the EmpordĂ , suitable for seafood rice dishes; sold in pretty cloth bags as gifts.
Chapter Seven
Getting around Girona y Costa Brava
- Taxi Girona+34 972 222 323
Last reviewed1 October 2026
Trips from Girona y Costa Brava
Costa Brava
âThe rugged coastâ north of Barcelona: rocky coves among pine forests and the CamĂ de Ronda coastal path, white villages such as CadaquĂ©s and Calella de Palafrugell, the walled town of Tossa de Mar, with Girona nearby.
June to September · 3â5 days


