Soria
12 places in and around Soria, 2 of them among my favourite picks.
Chapter One
The story of Soria
Soria, on the Duero river in the Middle March. In its province is Medina Salim (Medinaceli), the base of the March, where Almanzor died in 1002 CE on his way back from his last campaign. Nearby are the ruins of Numancia, which resisted Rome.
Figures of Soria
- 938–1002
Almanzor
Chamberlain of Córdoba. He died in Medina Salim in 1002 CE and was buried there; the location of his grave is unknown today.
- 1836–1870
Gustavo Adolfo Bécquer
He drew on Soria for several of his “legends”, such as “Mountain of the Spirits”.
- 1875–1939
Antonio Machado
He taught French in Soria (1907–1912), married there and wrote his collection “Campos de Castilla”. His room in its institute is preserved.
- 1896–1987
Gerardo Diego
A poet of the “Generation of ’27” who taught in Soria and wrote the collection “Soria”.
Chapter Two
Places in Soria
12 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
Castillo de Gormaz
· Gormaz (Soria)
One of the largest Islamic castles in Europe, its walls stretching about a kilometre along a rise overlooking the Duero river. The Umayyads built it in the caliphate era (completed around 965 CE under al-Hakam II) to be the fortress of the Middle March against the northern kingdoms, and Almanzor took it as the base for his raids. Its caliphal gate with a horseshoe arch is among the finest surviving military architecture of Córdoba.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car only: an asphalt road climbs to a car park at the fortress gate. Inside is a large open stony dirt area. No shade, water or services, and strong wind. The nearest services are in Burgo de Osma (15 km).
My tip
Entry is free and open all day. Drive up to the top of the plateau, and bring water, as there are no services there. It is about two and a half hours from Madrid.
Castilla Termal Burgo de Osma
· El Burgo de Osma
The historic Santa Catalina University (16th century) has become a thermal hotel, with underground pools beneath stone arches, in a beautiful episcopal town on the edge of old al-Andalus.
- Easy to reach
- Inside the town of Burgo de Osma, beside the historic centre, with full services within walking distance. Few buses run from Soria and Madrid; a car is needed to visit Gormaz and the Río Lobos valley.
My tip
Close to the natural valley of Cañón del Río Lobos, good for family walks, and to the Umayyad Castillo de Gormaz, one of the greatest fortresses of the Córdoba caliphate.
Calatañazor – Busto de Almanzor
· Calatañazor
The Christian account says Almanzor was defeated in 392 AH (1002 CE) at the Castle of the Eagles on his last raid, and then died in Medina Salim. The famous saying is “At the Castle of the Eagles, Almanzor lost his drum”. Enan discusses this account and shows that the Arab sources mention no defeat, so the battle is closer to legend.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- A village on a hill up a narrow road. Park at the entrance, then steep stone lanes lead down to the bust and the castle. Very few services. Cold in winter.
My tip
A charming stone village on a rise. A bust of Almanzor stands in its centre, and the castle ruins overlook the “Valley of Blood” (Valle de la Sangre), the supposed battlefield. Lovely at sunset.
Castillo de San Esteban de Gormaz
· San Esteban de Gormaz
Ruins of a castle on a hill above the Duero river and the old bridge. It was a party to the fiercest border struggles near the fortress of Gormaz.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- By car to the town, then a 10–15 minute climb on a steep dirt track with no shade to the top of the hill (or a narrow road nearby). No services at the ruins; restaurants in the town.
My tip
Only a wall remains, but the view over the town, the caves and the Duero is superb. Combine it with the Castillo de Gormaz (15 km).
Castilla Termal Burgo de Osma
· El Burgo de Osma
A thermal hotel within the historic Santa Catalina University (16th century), which has turned its vaults into a spa with thermal pools and steam baths under stone arches. An experience combining historic architecture and hydrotherapy.
- Easy to reach
- Inside the town of Burgo de Osma, beside the historic centre, with full services within walking distance. Few buses run from Soria and Madrid; a car is needed to visit Gormaz and the Río Lobos valley.
My tip
A head cover is required in the thermal pools. Book massage sessions with your room, and ask about couples' sessions in a single room.
Laguna Negra (Vinuesa)
· Vinuesa
A dark glacial lake beneath a rock face in the Urbión mountains, surrounded by dense pine forests, and linked to the legend of Alvargonzález by the poet Machado. A magical autumn view.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- About an hour by car from Soria via Vinuesa; a 1.5 km climb, then 200 m to the lake. Plenty of shade.
- Barbecue
- Not allowed: no fires or barbecues at all; picnic with ready food only.
My tip
Parking costs about 4 euros; then 1.5 km on foot to the lake, or by a small shuttle in season. A café at the car park. And take your rubbish back with you.
Cañón del Río Lobos (Ermita de San Bartolomé)
· Ucero
A limestone gorge in Soria guarded by vultures, with a Romanesque hermitage of the Knights Templar beside a cave in its midst. A level trail along the riverbank, ideal for families.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- From Ucero take the SO-920 to the Puente de los Siete Ojos car park (restricted in summer; an upper car park and an extra walk may be used). There and back.
- Distance
- 5 km · 50 m climb · 1:30–2 hours
My tip
Summer is hot and exposed: come in the morning, and don't miss the small cave behind the hermitage.
Miradomos
· Valdenarros (Soria)
Comfortable transparent domes in the Soria countryside for watching the stars from bed, in one of the darkest skies in Spain.
My tip
Close to the Río Lobos valley and Lake Cogolludo. The domes usually sleep a small family.
Castillo de Berlanga de Duero
· Berlanga de Duero
A huge 16th-century fortress on a hill overlooking the town, built on the site of an older citadel on the Duero defence line, with a Renaissance palace and long walls. One of the largest military sites in Soria, and one of the best restored.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- About 50 minutes from Soria, or two and a half hours from Madrid by car. A climb up the hill and stairs inside the towers; suitable for active families.
My tip
Use the audio guide, it is useful; the full visit takes two hours. There are no toilets inside the castle, and do not miss the nearby San Baudelio hermitage.
Plaza Mayor de Peñaranda de Duero
· Peñaranda de Duero
An elegant Castilian village with a great square of houses with timber and stone arcades, a Gothic rollo (pillory) at its centre, and the Renaissance Avellaneda Palace on one side. Above it are the ruins of a castle on the hill.
What to see
The great square and its arcaded houses · the Avellaneda Palace, its two-storey courtyard and decorated ceilings · the Jimeno pharmacy from the 18th century (one of the oldest pharmacies in Europe) · the castle ruins and their viewpoint · the walls and the village gate.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- 20 minutes from Aranda de Duero and 90 minutes from Burgos by car. The square is flat, and the climb to the castle is a short dirt track; an hour and a half.
My tip
The palace is visited on short guided tours; check the times. The village is very quiet on weekdays, so plan your meal in advance.
Maderuelo – Puerta de la Villa
· Maderuelo
A walled village stretching along a rocky ridge like a ship afloat on the Linares reservoir, entered through a medieval gate that still keeps its armoured wooden doors. Near the Hoces del Riaza nature reserve, where vultures soar.
What to see
The village’s fortified gate · the single main street and its stone houses · the Santa María church · a view of the Linares reservoir and the Roman bridge that appears when the water drops · views of vultures over the Riaza valley.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Two hours from Madrid on the A-1, and one hour from Segovia. The village is flat on the crest and easy; one hour.
My tip
Ask for the tourist office tour; it is interesting. The village is very small and services are limited, so plan your meal in Ayllón or Riaza.
Ruta de los Pueblos Negros (Campillo de Ranas – Majaelrayo)
· Campillo de Ranas / Majaelrayo
Small mountain villages on the slope of Mount Ocejón, built entirely of shiny black slate: roofs, walls and fences, so they look as if they grew out of the ground. The best known are Majaelrayo and Campillo de Ranas.
What to see
Majaelrayo and its black houses beneath the summit of Ocejón · Campillo de Ranas, its church and its slate cemetery · the small “El Ardal” porch · the mountain trails and the nearby Tejera Negra forest · Valverde de los Arroyos and its waterfalls.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- Two hours from Madrid by car, with no public transport. Uneven, steep stone lanes; half a day.
My tip
Services are very limited; bring your own food. Spring and autumn are the most beautiful times, and the mountain roads are narrow. It can be combined with Cogolludo and Tamajón.
Chapter Three
When to go to Soria
Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holiday
January
No events listed in January. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Four
What to bring home
What deserves to come home with you from Soria: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
- DOP
Soria butter
Mantequilla de Soria DOPProtected butter from the milk of cows grazing Soria's pastures, sold plain, salted or sweetened with sugar.
Black truffle
Trufa negra de SoriaSoria is one of the main black truffle areas, with a market and fair in winter (December–March).
Wild mushrooms
Setas de SoriaSoria's pine forests are a paradise for wild mushrooms in autumn, especially “boletus” and “níscalos”.
Almazán yemas and paciencias
Yemas y Paciencias de Almazán“Yemas” (egg yolk and sugar) and “Paciencias”, small crisp egg biscuits, a tradition of the town of Almazán.
Chapter Five
Getting around Soria
Apps that work here
Uber
Last reviewed1 October 2026