Old Town / Passeig del Born
Casco antiguo / Passeig del Born
Around the cathedral and the al-Madina palace (Almudaina): elegant streets, shops and restaurants, all within walking distance.
You'll find here
Boutique hotels in historic palaces.
The largest and most varied of the Balearic Islands: Palma with its cathedral, the Almudaina palace of Islamic origin and its Arab baths, the Tramuntana mountains and the historic SĂłller train, turquoise coves in the southeast such as CalĂł des Moro and MondragĂł, and the Drach caves.
Chapter One
âMayurqaâ, the largest of the eastern islands, was conquered by the Muslims around 903 CE and remained under their rule until Jaume I took it in 1229 CE. In Palma there are remains of baths and the palace called âal-Madinaâ (Almudaina), and the island combines modern art and nature.
Figures of Mallorca
al-Humaydi
A Mallorcan hadith scholar and historian, author of âJadhwat al-muqtabis fi dhikr wulat al-Andalusâ, who died in Baghdad.
Jaume I
The king of Aragon who took Mallorca in 1229 CE and then Valencia.
Ramon Llull
A philosopher and writer born in Palma, who learned Arabic and wrote in it; he has a statue on the seafront.
Frédéric Chopin
He spent the winter of 1838â1839 with George Sand at the Valldemossa monastery, and his rooms there are now a museum.
Chapter Two
1 hour-by-hour day plan and 2 walking routes I drew myself in Mallorca, with the places to pray and eat where I marked them.
Chapter Three
78 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
· Palma
A huge Gothic cathedral on the sea, built after 1229 CE on the site of the congregational mosque of Medina Mayurqa, with touches by GaudĂ and a rose window that is one of the largest in the world.
My tip
Closed to visitors on Sundays; book in advance and add the roof tour. The best photo is from the Parc de la Mar garden in front of it.
· Palma
The palace of the Muslim governors of the island. Its name comes from the Arabic âal-Mudaynaâ (the citadel). The island was Muslim from its conquest under the Umayyad Amir Abd Allah (902 CE), through the Taifa, Almoravid, Banu Ghaniya and Almohad periods, until Jaume I took it in 1229 CE and turned the palace into a Gothic royal residence, which is still an official seat.
My tip
Right beside the cathedral; closed on Mondays, and the audio guide is good.
· Capdepera
A 14th-century walled castle built by King Jaume II on the site of an Islamic fort in the far east of Mallorca; its crenellated walls surround an entire hill. On clear days you can see the coast as far as the island of Menorca.
My tip
A symbolic fee; one hour is enough. Combine it with the beaches of Cala Ratjada and the ArtĂ caves (in the guide).
· Palma
One of the few surviving remains of the Islamic city of âMedina Mayurqaâ (10thâ11th centuries): a domed hall with columns whose capitals differ from one another, in a quiet garden.
My tip
A short visit (20 minutes), cash only; in the old quarter behind the cathedral.
· Palma
A rare circular castle in Europe, from the 14th century, on a hill in a pine forest. Its name means âbeautiful viewâ, and it overlooks the whole bay of Palma.
My tip
Go up by taxi and walk down through the forest; closed on Mondays, and free on Sundays.
· Canyamel
Tall sea caves overlooking Canyamel bay, with a column known as the âQueen of Columnsâ about 22 metres high. It is said Jules Verne visited and was inspired by them. Less crowded than the Drach caves.
My tip
The tour takes about 45 minutes with a multilingual guide. Free parking in front of the entrance.
Marc Fosh
A Michelin star in an old 17th-century monastery in central Palma; closed Sundays and Mondays.
TryLunch or tasting menu, with pork and alcohol excluded; Mediterranean fish; vegetables with herbs
Booking essential · Suits couples and business meetings
DINS Santi Taura
A Michelin star for chef Santi Taura: historic Mallorcan cuisine with a modern touch; usually dinner, closed Sundays and Mondays.
TryTasting menu, with alternatives requested for dishes containing pork; Mallorcan fish and vegetable dishes
Booking essential · Suits couples and business meetings
Voro
Restaurant of the Park Hyatt Mallorca hotel on the Canyamel hill east of the island, under chef Ălvaro Salazar.
TryTasting menu, the famous tomato starter, Mediterranean fish, desserts
Booking essential · Formal, a jacket preferred · Suits couples and business meetings
Zaranda
Restaurant of chef Fernando Pérez Arellano in the Es Princep hotel in Palma, inside an old leather tannery.
Try12-course tasting menu, the golden lamb sandwich, Mediterranean dishes
Booking essential · Formal, a jacket preferred · Suits couples and business meetings
Cappuccino Sant Miquel
Historic café in a venerable building: breakfast, light meals and sweets
TryBreakfast, sweets
Suits families and children, couples and business meetings
Cappuccino Conquistador
Café and restaurant opposite the al-Madina palace (Almudaina), with a garden: breakfast, brunch and drinks
TryBreakfast, brunch, cakes
Suits families and children and couples
· Porto Cristo
Huge limestone caves with stalagmites and stalactites, ending at Lake Martel, one of the largest underground lakes in the world, where a concert is played from illuminated boats.
My tip
An hour and a half from Palma; book an early slot online; there are many steps at the exit.
· Pollença
An 18th-century Jesuit monastery on the slopes of the Mallorcan Tramuntana mountains, surrounded by olive and lemon groves, with a spa and an outdoor pool with mountain views.
My tip
5 minutes from the town of Pollença and 15 minutes from its bay; the hotel provides electric bikes to reach the town.
· Pollença
A mountainous peninsula at the far north of Mallorca ending in a lighthouse from 1863 CE above towering cliffs; the road to it is one of the Mediterranean's most beautiful. On the way is Formentor beach with its pines.
My tip
In summer (roughly mid-May to October) cars are banned after a certain hour in the morning. Use the shuttle bus from Port de Pollença, or go very early.
· Bunyola
An estate and gardens dating back to the Islamic period in Mallorca, with an Arabic name, water channels, fountains and ancient trees on the SĂłller road; one of the finest gardens of Andalusi origin on the islands.
My tip
One to two hours; it is on the way to SĂłller, so combine the two in one day.
· Banyalbufar
A historic estate on agricultural terraces overlooking the sea on Mallorca's west coast, with separate villas with private pools in a natural reserve.
My tip
Detached villas are an ideal choice for conservative families. The road to them is a narrow mountain road, so rent a suitable car.
· SantanyĂ
A small bay between pine-covered slopes with crystal-clear water, now one of the most famous views in Mallorca.
My tip
The car park is far (20â30 minutes on foot), followed by steps and a rocky descent, so it is not suitable for the elderly or for strollers. Come very early.
· Valldemossa
A breathtaking stone village in the Tramuntana mountains. Chopin spent the winter of 1838 in its monastery, and its alleys are decorated with roses and flower pots.
What to see
Carthusian monastery and Chopinâs cell · King Sanchoâs palace · alleys and ceramic tiles on the doors · house of Saint Catherine · Valldemossa port and the Tramuntana trails
My tip
30 minutes from Palma; go in the morning, and try the coca de patata pastry.
· Pollença
The most famous lookout in Mallorca, on the Formentor peninsula: towering cliffs falling into a turquoise sea, and one of the Mediterranean's most beautiful mountain roads.
What to see
Es Colomer lookout · the Formentor road and lighthouse · Formentor beach · the village of Pollença and its Calvari steps (365 steps) · Port de Pollença and its bay
My tip
Go at sunrise or before ten; the road to the lighthouse is closed to private cars in summer.
· AlcĂșdia
A walled town whose name comes from the Arabic âal-Kudyaâ (the hill); its walls and gates date from the 14th century and surround stone alleys. Beside it are the ruins of the Ciudad Romana de Pollentia.
What to see
Mallorca Gate and San Sebastiån Gate · the walkway on the walls · stone alleys · ruins of Roman Pollentia · Tuesday and Sunday market
My tip
The market is on Tuesdays and Sundays inside the walls. Walk the walls, then go on to Pollentia. AlcĂșdia beach nearby is suitable for children.
· Palma (Platja de Palma)
A large aquarium near Palma's beach, with the Big Blue Sea, the deepest shark tank in Europe, a tropical forest, Mediterranean gardens and play areas.
My tip
Go at opening time; allow 3 hours. Several small restaurants inside it.
· Palma
A wooden train from 1912 crosses the Tramuntana mountains and orange and olive groves from Palma to SĂłller, then an old tram takes you to SĂłller harbour.
My tip
Book online because the train fills up; go by train and come back by bus, or the other way round, to save time.
· Cala Millor
Coasteering combines climbing, swimming, jumping from rocks and entering sea caves along Mallorca's east coast, led by a local guide who knows the coast well and adapts the route for families.
My tip
The season runs from April to October. Swimming ability is required, and the tour takes about three hours.
· Port d'Andratx
Off the protected island of Dragonera (a natural park) on Mallorca's west coast: dive sites with caves, rock walls, grouper and eagle rays in clear Mediterranean water.
My tip
The centre is small and friendly and suits a first dive. June to October are the best times.
· Port d'AlcĂșdia
In the calm bay of AlcĂșdia you can rent a small boat (up to 15 horsepower) without a boating licence after a short briefing, and reach turquoise coves that cannot be reached by car, such as Coco beach and Cap de Formentor.
My tip
The sea in the northern bay is calmer in the morning. Bring water and sunscreen, and follow the sailing limits set by the rental company.
· El Toro (Calvià )
Big-game fishing trips for bluefin tuna (which can exceed 100 kg) off southwest Mallorca, led by an expert skipper; one of the best-known âbig gameâ experiences in the Mediterranean, with lighter family trips available.
My tip
Tuna season runs from June to October; the crew follows the âcatch and releaseâ rules for large tuna.
· Palma
A large, clean mosque near Plaça d'Espanya in the Lepanto district.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually between 13:30 and 14:30, roughly (it may be later, up to 15:00, in summer); check with the mosque beforehand. On Fridays the prayer is around 13:40 according to the worshippers, so come at 13:30. It opens only at prayer times.
· Palma
A second mosque in the Lepanto district.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually between 13:30 and 14:30, roughly (it may be later, up to 15:00, in summer); check with the mosque beforehand. Its opening hours are limited (around Dhuhr, Asr and Maghrib).
· Palma (Llevant)
Palma's most highly rated halal butcher, with fresh meat every day and very high standards of cleanliness.
My tip
Open daily, 9:00â22:00.
· Palma (Ponent)
A halal butcher rated 4.9; its owner, Said, cuts meat to order and the minced beef is excellent.
My tip
Closed on Mondays.
· Llucmajor
A 19th-century sea fort converted into a very private luxury hotel.
My tip
Book a suite with a sea view; some rooms have no windows.
· Palma
A 13th-century castle on a hill above Palma, overlooking the bay and the mountains.
My tip
10 minutes by car from the centre.
· Palma
A 19th-century palace in the heart of old Palma, with a rooftop pool.
My tip
All the sights of the old town are within walking distance.
· DeiĂ
A legendary hotel in the mountain village of DeiĂ in Mallorca, with two 16th-century country houses among olive and lemon groves, with views of the Tramuntana mountains and the sea; one of the most romantic destinations in the Mediterranean.
· Pollença
The famous historic hotel (Formentor, 1929) on the Formentor peninsula, among pine forests and a private beach with turquoise water; it hosted world stars for decades.
· Puigpunyent
A 17th-century country house on a hill in the Puigpunyent valley in the Tramuntana mountains, with gardens and a pool overlooking the valley; a quiet retreat half an hour from Palma.
· Palma
The elegant avenue in the heart of Palma under plane trees, with luxury brand shops and historic cafés, connecting to the Avinguda de Jaume III shopping street.
My tip
Continue the walk to Jaume III street, then on to the cathedral.
· Portals Nous (Calvià )
The most upscale marina in Mallorca, with fine restaurants, designer shops and luxury cars; the destination of the island's high society.
My tip
15 minutes west of Palma; for lunch or dinner with a view of the yachts.
· Palma
The Majorica pearl shop, the famous Mallorcan brand since 1890 for high-quality artificial pearls, in the heart of old Palma.
My tip
The factory and main shop are in Manacor for anyone who wants to see the manufacturing; ask about the guarantee certificate.
· Palma
A historic café and sweet shop since the 18th century, the most famous place to taste fresh spiral-shaped Mallorcan ensaimada and almond ice cream.
My tip
Traditional ensaimada is made with pork lard (saĂŻm); ask before buying and avoid it if necessary. Queues are long at peak times.
· Palma
Palma's largest and best-known market, near Plaça d'Espanya, with a separate fish section and stalls that cook the fresh fish you buy.
My tip
Try the oysters and grilled shrimp straight away at the fish stalls. Buy Mallorcan almonds and the local âflor de salâ salt. Morning market only, and there is a car park beneath it.
· Palma
The oldest market in Palma, in the modern Santa Catalina district, where locals come for breakfast or a morning tapas.
My tip
Some stalls serve good sushi and seafood. Smaller and quieter than the Olivar. Morning market.
· DeiĂ
A luxury country hotel in the mountain village of DeiĂ , with a spa, indoor pool and wellness circuit among olive and lemon groves. Quiet, overlooking the Tramuntana mountains.
My tip
Suits those seeking total calm. Book spa treatments before arrival, and ask about suites with a private pool.
· Palma
The oldest café in Palma, dating to 1700, when its founder Joan brought snow from the Tramuntana mountains to make drinks and ice cream. Its hall, with Mallorcan tiles, chandeliers and a small fountain, has stayed as it was since the 18th century.
My tip
Order a hot ensaimada with thick chocolate, or the almond ice cream gelat d'ametlla, which is the house speciality. Mornings or afternoons on weekdays.
· Manacor
A world-class tennis academy in Nadal's hometown of Manacor, with clay and hard courts, indoor and outdoor courts, an in-house hotel and the stunning Rafa museum. It runs daily and weekly camps for adults and children, following the methods of Nadal's coaches.
My tip
Book the âTennis Campâ from one day to a week, with accommodation inside the academy. Private lessons are available but more expensive, and it is better to confirm a court in advance. The museum and tour are enjoyable for non-players. The price level is high.
· Portals Nous (Calvià )
Mallorca's most exclusive marina, a favourite of the Spanish royal family and the Mediterranean elite, with luxury restaurants and boutiques. The ideal starting point for chartering a yacht with crew to tour the island's coves.
My tip
Book a yacht with crew through a licensed broker several weeks ahead in July and August. Specify halal food requests and no alcohol. The alternative in Andalusia: Puerto BanĂșs marina in Marbella.
Chapter Four
My view in brief: May to October. Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holidayBars: lowest and highest temperature
May14° to 24°
Warm (14â24°C) and ideal. We recommend a tour of the Tramuntana mountains.
No events listed in May. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Five
Where I wouldn't stay
MagalufMagaluf
Party tourism area for young foreigners; not suitable for families at all.
S'Arenal / Platja de PalmaS'Arenal / Platja de Palma
A beautiful beach, but surrounded by bars and loud parties in summer.
Hotels I recommend in Mallorca
Chapter Six
What deserves to come home with you from Mallorca: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
Mallorca almonds
Almendra de Mallorca IGPProtected island almond with a strong, oily flavour, the base of many of the island's sweets.
Mallorca oil
Oli de Mallorca DOPOil from the local âMallorquinaâ variety blended with âArbequinaâ and âPicualâ; sweet and smooth, with an almond flavour.
Almond cake and its ice cream
GatĂł d'ametlla y gelat d'ametllaAn almond sponge cake with almost no flour, served with almond ice cream: the best-known Mallorcan sweet free of pork.
Es Trenc salt flower
Flor de sal d'Es TrencArtisan sea salt from the Es Trenc salt pans in the south of the island, with herb and lemon versions.
Mallorcan paprika
Pebre bord de Tap de CortĂPaprika made from the local âTap de CortĂâ pepper; aromatic and sweet.
EnsaĂŻmada
Important note: traditionally made with pork lard âsaĂŻmâ, from which its name comes, so exclude it unless it is explicitly labelled âsin manteca de cerdoâ or made with butter. Likewise âsobrassadaâ, which is pork-based, should be excluded.
Chapter Seven
In Palma, EMT buses cover the city, and the A1 line links the airport with the centre and Passeig Malagueta in about 20 minutes. For getting around the island there are TIB buses between towns and beaches, and a small train to SĂłller and Inca, but hiring a car is the best option for families to explore the coves and villages. A taxi from the airport to the centre costs about 20â25 euros; taxis are available, while VTC apps are limited. Tips: the mountain roads of the Serra de Tramuntana are narrow and winding, and the car parks at the famous beaches fill early in summer.
Last reviewed1 October 2026