Guadalajara y Sigüenza
15 places in and around Guadalajara y Sigüenza.
Chapter One
The story of Guadalajara y Sigüenza
“Wadi al-Hijara” is one of the frontier cities of the Middle March, founded by Muslims on the Henares river; the Castilians took it around 1085 CE. Nearby, “Sigüenza” is a medieval city with a castle and a cathedral, in the lands of the Alcarria.
Figures of Guadalajara y Sigüenza
- d. 1155
al-Hiyari
A writer and historian named after Wadi al-Hijara, author of “al-Musahhab fi gharaib al-Maghrib”, on which Ibn Said built his “al-Mughrib fi hula al-Maghrib”.
- 1398–1458
Marqués de Santillana
A poet and head of the Mendoza family, linked to Wadi al-Hijara, whose grandchildren built the Palace of the Infantado there.
- 1461–1486
El Doncel (Martín Vázquez de Arce)
A knight killed in the Granada War, whose marble statue on his tomb in Sigüenza Cathedral is one of the masterpieces of Spanish sculpture.
- 1916–2000
Antonio Buero Vallejo
A major playwright born in Wadi al-Hijara.
Chapter Two
Places in Guadalajara y Sigüenza
15 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
Heritage and monuments
3Alcazar Real de Guadalajara
· Guadalajara
The remains of the Islamic alcazaba of Wadi al-Hijara (Guadalajara), which became a Castilian royal palace, at the top of the city on the Henares river.
My tip
Currently closed to visitors and viewed from the outside; combine it with the Palace of the Infantado and the “Arab” bridge over the river.
Castillo de Zorita de los Canes
· Zorita de los Canes
An Islamic castle on a rock above the Tagus river, built from the stones of the nearby Gothic city of Recópolis, in a charming small village.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- By car only to the village; a 10–15 minute climb up a steep rocky path and steps to the castle. Not suitable for strollers. Opening in the morning is limited — call before. Very few services in the village.
My tip
Opening hours are limited (usually until 13:45); call before your visit, and combine it with the Recópolis archaeological site next door.
Parque Arqueológico de Recópolis
· Zorita de los Canes
The ruins of a city founded by the Gothic king Leovigild in 578 CE and named after his son Recaredo, one of the few cities built in Western Europe after the fall of Rome, with a palace, a church and a commercial street.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- An hour and 20 minutes from Madrid by car. Open dirt paths with no shade; a hat and water are essential.
My tip
Watch the introductory film at the centre first; combine it with the Zorita de los Canes castle (5 minutes). Visiting slots are limited, so check before you go.
Nature and walks
4Hotel Rural El Arrabal de Sigüenza
· Sigüenza
A restored stone house in Sigüenza's old quarter beneath its castle, with warm rooms and a garden, in the medieval city of Sigüenza, which was an Andalusian frontier post before it fell.
- Easy to reach
- In Sigüenza itself; you can reach it by regional train from Chamartín (few trips). The centre is a short walk, slightly sloping, and services are complete.
My tip
An hour and a half from Madrid; stroll the old quarter and the Castle of the Bishops, and you can reach it by train from Madrid.
Hayedo de Tejera Negra
· Cantalojas
One of the southernmost beech forests in Europe, on the slopes of the Sierra de Ayllón north of Guadalajara, which turn golden and red in late October and early November, beside the “Black Villages” built of slate stone.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- By car from Cantalojas: 2 km paved, then a dirt track to a car park that needs a prior booking. The 6 km circular Carretas trail (2–2.5 hours) has a moderate climb. No services and almost no mobile coverage.
My tip
In the autumn season, entering by car needs a prior booking; the Senda de la Tejera Negra loop is easy (6 km).
Barranco del Río Dulce (Pelegrina)
· Pelegrina (Sigüenza)
A green gorge near Sigüenza where Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente filmed his famous programmes, between the village of Pelegrina, its castle and the “El Gigante” waterfall. A flat walk along the river.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Parking at Pelegrina or La Cabrera (Guadalajara). The trail follows the river out and back; you can settle for the waterfall stretch (3 km).
- Distance
- 6 km · 100 m climb · 2–2:30 hours
My tip
Start at the viewpoint of Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente, then go down to Pelegrina; spring is the most beautiful season.
Palacio de los Duques de Medinaceli (Cogolludo)
· Cogolludo
A stone village at the foot of the Wadi al-Hijara mountains, whose main square is dominated by the facade of the first Renaissance palace in Spain (late 15th century), with its fine carvings and late Gothic windows.
What to see
The Renaissance façade of the Medinaceli palace · the sloping great square · the castle ruins on the hill · the Santa María church · the start of the “Route of the Black Villages” to the north
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- An hour and a quarter from Madrid by car. The square slopes slightly; one hour.
My tip
The palace is visited on limited guided tours; the façade and the square are enough for most visitors. Combine it with the Black Villages in one day from Madrid.
Experiences and family
3Miel La Relaña Valdelacasa
· Pastrana
A family project in Pastrana presenting La Alcarria honey, with protected designation of origin — one of Spain's oldest and most famous honeys, from lavender and rosemary blossom — with an explanation of bee life and a tasting of its varieties.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- In Pastrana; parking in the town and visiting are easy. Book in advance. Services in the town.
- Season
- March – September
My tip
Call before your visit; combine it with the lavender fields of Brihuega in summer, or the international honey fair in Pastrana in March.
Ecocolmena – Apicultor por un día
· Escopete
An organic beekeeping farm in the heart of the famous La Alcarria honey region. The experience starts with an introductory workshop on bee life, then going down to the apiary in protective clothing to open the hives and see the queen. The day ends with a tasting of honey varieties and bee pollen.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car only (an hour from Madrid); the farm is near the village. Limited services.
My tip
Booking in advance only; protective clothing is provided. The best season is April to September, and it suits children from around 6 years old. An hour from Madrid, and it can be combined with the town of Pastrana and its bee fair (March).
Granja Escuela La Limpia
· Guadalajara
A farm and vegetable garden behind a shopping centre in Wadi al-Hijara (Guadalajara), where children touch and feed the animals. It organises family days and summer camps.
- Ages
- 3–12
- Setting
- Outdoors
My tip
Family days by booking; one hour by car from Madrid. Two to three hours.
Where to stay
1Parador de Sigüenza
· Sigüenza
The Castle of the Bishops in Sigüenza, a fortress of Arab origin rebuilt by the bishops, with a stone courtyard, huge halls and historic furniture. One of the most convincing paradores for the “sleeping in a castle” experience.
My tip
Some rooms have small windows and are dark, so ask for a room with a view. The restaurant serves Castilian dishes such as roast kid, and check the halal options in advance.
Relaxation
4Merendero El Olivar (Guadalajara)
· El Olivar
A wide municipal picnic area in the village of El Olivar in La Alcarria, with a covered section of public barbecues, long tables and a large children's playground. Quiet, and almost empty even in summer.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car, about 1:20 via the A-2, then the CM-2005 and the Alcarria roads. Parking next to the park.
- Barbecue
- Allowed, with conditions: in Castilla-La Mancha, fires are banned in wooded areas and recreation zones from 1 June to about the end of September (it may be extended to mid-October); outside that period, they are allowed only in fixed barbecues.
My tip
Barbecues close during the danger season, and sometimes they have stayed closed in October by local decision; call the El Olivar town hall before going. There are no toilets, and there is a café in the village.
Merendero de Quiñoneros (Brihuega)
· Brihuega
A shady park at the entrance to the town of Brihuega, famous for its lavender fields, with public barbecues, stone and wooden tables, a spring and a small playground. The people of Wadi al-Hijara describe it as the closest equipped barbecue spot to them.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car, about 1:10 via the A-2 (Torija exit). Roadside parking, abundant shade, no toilets.
- Barbecue
- Allowed, with conditions: in Castilla-La Mancha, fires are banned in wooded areas and recreation zones from 1 June to about the end of September (it may be extended to mid-October); outside that period, they are allowed only in fixed barbecues.
My tip
Combine it with a visit to the town and its castle; the lavender season (July) falls in the fire-ban period, so make barbecues in spring or autumn. Watch the children, as it is close to the road.
Merendero de Valverde de los Arroyos
· Valverde de los Arroyos
A park by a clear stream at the entrance to one of the most beautiful villages of the “Black Architecture” in the mountains of Wadi al-Hijara, with public barbecues, tables and a small stone bridge. From here the Despeñalagua waterfalls trail begins.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- By car, about 1:40 via the A-1 then Tamajón; a narrow mountain road at the end. Shade, running water, and restaurants in the village.
- Barbecue
- Allowed, with conditions: in Castilla-La Mancha, fires are banned in wooded areas and recreation zones from 1 June to about the end of September (it may be extended to mid-October); outside that period, they are allowed only in fixed barbecues.
My tip
Barbecues are sealed during the danger season and may stay sealed afterwards; check before you go. The parking area is small by the road, so arrive early.
Finca La Bujeda (Guadalajara)
· Almonacid de Zorita
A large estate near the Bolarque reservoir that rents a big house to groups, with rooms that have private bathrooms, a pool and a barbecue; deer and horses roam its land. Suitable for an extended family gathering at the weekend.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car, about 1:20 via the A-3; the last stretch is a dirt track inside the estate.
- Barbecue
- Barbecues are allowed inside the private estate, subject to the fire-warning days.
My tip
Usually booked for at least two nights; an optional meal service is available, so order what suits you from it or bring your own meat.
Chapter Three
When to go to Guadalajara y Sigüenza
Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holiday
January
No events listed in January. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Four
What to bring home
What deserves to come home with you from Guadalajara y Sigüenza: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
- DOP
La Alcarria honey
Miel de La Alcarria DOPSpain's most famous protected honey, light and smooth, from rosemary, lavender (espliego) and thyme, crystallising smoothly; the Wadi al-Hijara region is its heart.
Brihuega lavender
Lavanda de BrihuegaThe purple lavender fields around Brihuega bloom in July, and essential oils, soap and honey are sold from them.
La Alcarria mushrooms
Setas de La AlcarriaA wild mushroom from the region's forests in autumn.
Soaked sponge cake
Bizcochos borrachosA sponge cake soaked in syrup, a tradition of Wadi al-Hijara. Warning: wine or liqueur is often added to the syrup, so avoid it unless you are sure it is alcohol-free.
Chapter Five
Getting around Guadalajara y Sigüenza
Apps that work here
Uber
Last reviewed1 October 2026