Ciudad Real
5 places in and around Ciudad Real, 2 of them among my favourite picks.
Chapter One
The story of Ciudad Real
The vast plain of “La Mancha” was a frontier between al-Andalus and Castile: it holds “Calatrava la Vieja” and “Alarcos”, where the Almohads won in 1195 CE. It is the land of Don Quixote and the windmills.
Figures of Ciudad Real
- 1160–1199
Abu Yusuf Yaqub al-Mansur
The Almohad caliph who defeated Alfonso VIII at the Battle of Alarcos in 1195 CE, near Ciudad Real.
- 1221–1284
Alfonso X el Sabio
Founded “Villa Real” (Ciudad Real) in 1255 CE.
- 1547–1616
Miguel de Cervantes
Made La Mancha the home of Don Quixote; the Molinos de Viento de Campo de Criptana and the windmills of Consuegra are attributed to his famous adventure.
- 1949–
Pedro Almodóvar
International film director, born in Calzada de Calatrava in the province of Ciudad Real.
Chapter Two
Places in Ciudad Real
5 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
Finca La Granja | Quesos Manchegos Artesanos
· Torre de Juan Abad
A Manchega sheep farm in the La Mancha countryside, where cheese is made from its flock's milk; it explains the stages from milking to ageing. Children love feeding the lambs. Don Quixote's land lies among its plains.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- A farm near Torre de Juan Abad on a rural road: park there for an easy tour. Advance booking. The village has basic services; Valdepeñas is 40 min away. A car is essential.
- Season
- March – June is best, and the visit is open all year.
My tip
Tours are by booking and include tasting. Ask about the type of rennet (cuajo) if you are particular about it, and ask that no pork or wine be served. Spring is the best season, with the lambs.
Parque Arqueológico de Alarcos
On 9 Sha'ban 591 AH (18 July 1195 CE), the Almohad caliph Yaqub al-Mansur won a crushing victory over Alfonso VIII beneath the walls of the Alarcos fortress: the “Battle of Alarcos”, to which Enan devotes a full chapter. It was the last major Muslim victory in al-Andalus 17 years before al-Uqab.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- On the Alarcos hill, 10 km from Ciudad Real: a car park, then a 30–60 min walk up dirt tracks on site. No shade, and summer heat. Limited opening hours. No public transport.
My tip
The interpretation centre, the church on the hill and the excavated walls overlook the field. A guided tour is recommended, and times are irregular, so check before you go (closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays).
Paraje del Charcazo (Corral de Calatrava)
· Corral de Calatrava
A recreation area under green oak trees on the “Don Quixote route” in the volcanic Campo de Calatrava, with barbecues, tables and toilets. 2 small wetlands nearby are good for bird watching.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- About 30 min by car from Ciudad Real; 300 m from the village exit, with tables on flat ground near the car park.
- Barbecue
- Allowed with conditions: in Castilla-La Mancha, fires are banned in forest and recreation areas from about 1 June to 30 September (this may be brought forward or extended depending on the risk), so barbecues are closed or fenced off. Outside that period, only fixed barbecues are allowed. Bring charcoal and water.
My tip
Best in spring and autumn; summer is hot and the fire ban is in force. Close to the road CM-4112.
Castillo-Convento de Calatrava la Nueva
· Aldea del Rey
A huge fortress-monastery on a mountain top, built by the knights of the Order of Calatrava after the victory at Las Navas de Tolosa in 1212 CE as their new headquarters, facing the fort of “Salvatierra”, which was held by the Almohads. It has a church with a huge rose window, and walls and towers at a towering height.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- 1 hour by car from Ciudad Real, with no public transport. Climb up stairs and uneven stone passages; 2 hours.
My tip
The final road is paved with rough stones; drive slowly. Visits are Wednesday to Sunday, and the site is very exposed to wind and sun.
Parque Minero de Almadén
· Almadén
The largest mercury mine in history, listed by UNESCO. Visitors go down into underground tunnels and learn about 2000 years of mining, with a museum, an old workers' hospital and a hexagonal bullring.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- 1 hour and 15 minutes by car from Ciudad Real. Stairs in the mine and walking through tunnels; 2.5 hours.
My tip
The mine tour is guided and runs at set times; book in advance and take a jacket, as the tunnels are cold. Very enjoyable for children.
Chapter Three
When to go to Ciudad Real
Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holiday
January
No events listed in January. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Four
What to bring home
What deserves to come home with you from Ciudad Real: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
- IGP
Almagro aubergine
Berenjena de Almagro IGPSmall aubergines pickled in vinegar, cumin, pepper and garlic: a tradition of Almagro for centuries, thought to have Andalusi origins.
- DOP
Manchego cheese
Queso Manchego DOPCiudad Real is the heart of the Manchego cheese region; buy it made with raw milk from the artisan cheese factories (“quesería artesana”).
- DOP
Saffron
Azafrán de La Mancha DOPGrown across La Mancha, and its sealed threads are sold in the province's shops.
- DOP
Campo de Calatrava olive oil
Aceite Campo de Calatrava DOPOil from “Cornicabra” and “Picual” olives: balanced and pungent, with an artichoke flavour.
- IGP
La Mancha melon
Melón de La Mancha IGP“Piel de sapo” melon from Tomelloso: very sweet; in season July–September.
Manchego pisto
Pisto manchegoA stew of tomato, pepper and courgette in olive oil, served with fried egg.
Chapter Five