The island of eternal spring: Teide volcano, Spain's highest peak, with its cable car and moonlike scenery; Loro Parque and Siam Park, among the best parks in Europe; the cliffs of Los Gigantes with whale and dolphin trips; and the village of Masca in its valley.
Chapter One
The largest of the Canary Islands and home of the summit of âTeideâ, Spain's highest mountain. The Guanches lived here until the Castilians completed their conquest in 1496 CE. Santa Cruz repelled Nelson's attack in 1797 CE.
Figures of Tenerife
Bencomo
A Guanche chief (mencey) who led the resistance against the Castilian conquest; there is a statue of him in Candelaria.
Alonso FernĂĄndez de Lugo
The Castilian conqueror of La Palma and Tenerife, and the founder of La Laguna.
AgustĂn de Betancourt
An engineer and inventor born in Puerto de la Cruz, who worked in the service of the Russian tsar and built structures in Saint Petersburg.
Alexander von Humboldt
The German scholar visited Tenerife in 1799 and climbed Teide, and a viewpoint in the Orotava valley bears his name.
Chapter Two
68 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
· GĂŒĂmar
Six stepped stone platforms in an ethnographic park, famous after the explorer Thor Heyerdahl linked them to the pyramids of the ancient world. Around them is a botanical garden and an exhibition about his expeditions.
My tip
Take the audio guide and allow an hour and a half; it is useful for children who like exploring. 25 minutes from Santa Cruz.
Guachinche La Huerta de Ana y Eva
A famous rural âguachincheâ: home-style Canarian cooking on a family farm in the north of the island; lunch MondayâFriday.
TryâPapas arrugadasâ with mojo sauce, cooked goat, grilled chicken, gofio
Booking advised · Suits families and children, couples and friends and groups
CHAR Fuego y Brasas
Charcoal grill and steakhouse: aged meats and cocktails
TryAged meats over embers; the big steak.
Booking advised · Smart casual · Suits couples, friends and groups and business meetings
Taberna TĂo MartĂn
Spanish tavern: croquettes, patatas bravas, tortilla, octopus and rice dishes
TryCroquettes, spicy potatoes, tortilla
Booking advised · Casual · Suits families and children and friends and groups
Etéreo by Pedro Nel
Creative charcoal cooking: meats, lamb, fish and ceviche
TryGrilled meats, lamb, ceviche
Booking advised · Smart casual · Suits couples, business meetings and friends and groups
Il Bocconcino by Royal Hideaway
Italian author cuisine holding a Michelin star, tasting menu; dinner only, closed Sunday and Monday
TryTasting menu, pasta, fish
Booking essential · Smart casual · Suits couples and business meetings
Restaurante Salitre
Seafront Mediterranean cuisine: octopus, lamb, fish of the day
TryOctopus, lamb, daily fish
Booking advised · Casual · Suits families and children, couples and friends and groups
· La Orotava
Teide volcano, the highest peak in Spain (3718 m), in a huge crater of lava fields and coloured rocks that look like the surface of Mars. It is the most visited national park in Europe and part of the World Heritage.
My tip
Take warm clothes even in summer; the final summit climb needs a free permit, booked weeks in advance.
· San Andrés (Santa Cruz de Tenerife)
A golden beach with sand brought from the Sahara in the 1970s, protected by breakwaters, with completely calm water, below the green Anaga mountains near Santa Cruz de Tenerife. The water is mild all year (19â23°C), so it suits swimming in winter too.
My tip
One of the best beaches in the Canaries for children because of its calm water. Free parking, sunshades and showers. Bus 910 from Santa Cruz reaches it in 15 minutes.
· La Gomera
The humid, evergreen âlaurisilvaâ forest in the heart of La Gomera, a living remnant of the Tertiary forests that covered southern Europe millions of years ago; a UNESCO World Heritage site, wrapped in fog so it looks like a legendary forest.
My tip
A 50-minute ferry from Los Cristianos (Tenerife). Start at the visitor centre in Agulo. There is a lot of fog â choose a clear day. Trails for all levels.
· Garachico
It was the most important port in Tenerife until volcanic lava buried it in 1706 CE, and the lava became natural swimming pools called âEl CaletĂłnâ. The town is one of âSpain's most beautiful villagesâ, with its square, its convents and the Castillo de San Miguel.
What to see
The El Caletón pools · Castillo de San Miguel · Plaza de la Libertad · Convent of San Francisco · the Garachico sea stack
My tip
Swim in the morning when the sea is calm (the pools close when the waves are high), and bring water shoes. Combine it with the dragon tree in Icod (10 minutes).
· Icod de los Vinos
The oldest and largest âdragon treeâ in the world, estimated at 800 to 1,000 years old, and a symbol of Tenerife. Around it is a small botanical garden of Canarian plants.
My tip
It can be seen free from the adjacent square; the garden has a token fee. Come in the morning. Combine it with Garachico.
· San Sebastiån de La Gomera
A modern rural hotel built on the terraces of the quiet island of La Gomera, with a spa, a pool and views over the ocean and Tenerife.
My tip
Access by ferry from Los Cristianos in Tenerife (about an hour); visit Garajonay National Park and its misty forests.
· San Cristóbal de La Laguna
The first unwalled city planned on a street grid (1496 CE); it became a model for Latin American cities and has been on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 1999. Its pedestrian streets are full of Canarian houses with wooden balconies and courtyards.
What to see
Calle Obispo Rey Redondo and the Casa del Corregidor · Plaza del Adelantado · La Laguna Cathedral · Palacio de Nava · the municipal market · the history museum in Casa Lercaro
My tip
Stroll along Calle Obispo Rey Redondo and Calle San AgustĂn, and go into the open courtyards of the mansions; then head for the Anaga forest (20 minutes). The city is cooler and more humid than the south, so bring a jacket.
· Los Gigantes
Towering black volcanic cliffs, up to about 600 m high, drop vertically into the ocean, and are seen at their best from the sea.
What to see
Boat trips below the cliffs and dolphin and whale watching · the Archipenque viewpoint · the harbour · Los Gigantes volcanic beach · the nearby village of Masca
My tip
Take a boat trip from the port of Los Gigantes to see dolphins and whales too.
· Masca
A mountain village perched between the jagged peaks of Teno, reached by a spectacular winding road; according to local legend it was once a hideout for pirates.
What to see
The winding mountain road and its viewpoints · the village and its stone houses · the Barranco de Masca (booking in advance) · Teno Rural Park · the Cherfe viewpoint
My tip
The road is very narrow, so drive carefully or go on a tour; the valley trail to the sea needs a booking in advance.
· La Orotava
A historic town on the slope of the Orotava valley beneath Mount Teide, with its noble houses with carved wooden balconies. The Casa de los Balcones (1632 CE) is the most famous, with its courtyard and small museum.
What to see
Casa de los Balcones · Jardines de Victoria · the town hall square · the El Ayo mill · views of the valley and Teide
My tip
Enter the courtyard of the Casa de los Balcones, then walk to the Jardines de Victoria and the Liceo gardens; combine it with the climb to Teide on the same road.
· Puerto de la Cruz
One of the most famous zoos in the world. It started with parrots and now holds the largest collection of them, with penguins on real ice, dolphin and seal shows and shark tanks.
My tip
Set aside a full day and plan your tour around the show times; a combined ticket with Siam Park is better value.
· Costa Adeje
Repeatedly rated the best water park in the world, with a Thai theme and famous slides such as âTower of Powerâ and the largest artificial wave.
My tip
Arrive at opening to get a sunbed; the âFast Passâ ticket saves long waits in summer.
· La Orotava
It rises in eight minutes from 2356 m to 3555 m near the Teide summit, with views over the other Canary Islands above a sea of cloud.
My tip
Book a time in advance, as tickets sell out; it stops in strong winds, and is not recommended for heart patients or pregnant women.
· Los Gigantes (Santiago del Teide)
A small yacht for eight guests sails towards the pilot whales and the resident dolphins found year-round between Tenerife and La Gomera, then stops under the towering 600 m âGiantsâ cliffs for swimming and diving. 3 intimate and comfortable hours for families.
My tip
Book early because the group is small, and ask for non-alcoholic drinks. The sea is best in the morning; bring swimwear.
· Los Gigantes
Under the enormous cliffs of Los Gigantes, which rise hundreds of metres from the sea west of Tenerife, volcanic dive sites where you can see sea turtles, stingrays and moray eels, with warm water all year round.
My tip
The centre is directly in the port of Los Gigantes; closed on Sundays, and a trial dive is available for beginners.
· Santiago del Teide
A mountain trail in Tenerife that passes between old almond orchards, which blossom white and pink in winter against the backdrop of Teide. It is the most famous almond-blossom scene in the islands. The almond itself was brought to Spain by the Arabs, and its Spanish name, almendra, bears the trace of that.
My tip
The blossom is between late January and mid-February. The trail is always open and can be shortened, and the area holds an almond festival in February.
· Los Cristianos (Arona)
A prayer room below the Comodoro Hotel near Los Cristianos beach in the south of the island, which fills up on Fridays.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually at around 13:30 to 14:30, and may run later, up to 15:00, in summer; check with the mosque before going. The sermon is around 14:00â14:30 and the prayer around 15:00, depending on the worshippers. There is a place for women, and parking is difficult.
· Santa Cruz de Tenerife
A reference halal butcher in Santa Cruz with Moroccan products, tagines and Ramadan supplies.
My tip
It may open later than the stated time; call before you go.
· GuĂa de Isora
A Moroccan kasbah-style resort on a cliff above a private beach, overlooking the island of La Gomera.
My tip
The private beach is excellent for swimming.
· Costa Adeje
A Canarian village-style resort on the best stretch of El Duque beach, with five pools and botanical gardens.
My tip
Book restaurants early.
· Parque Nacional del Teide
The only hotel inside Teide National Park (a World Heritage site) at 2,100 m altitude, directly beneath the Teide volcano. A unique experience of volcanic scenery and stargazing.
My tip
The building is old and awaiting renovation; nights are cold even in summer, and the cable car to the summit is 5 minutes away â book the summit permit in advance.
· San Sebastiån de La Gomera
A colonial Canarian-style building on a cliff above the port of San SebastiĂĄn de La Gomera, with tropical gardens, a pool and a view of Tenerife and Teide. Very quiet.
My tip
Access by ferry from Los Cristianos (about 50 minutes); there are scattered reports of smells in some corridors, so ask to change the room if needed.
· Garachico
A 17th-century Canarian mansion in the quiet coastal town of Garachico, north of the island, with a pool in the courtyard and a terrace with a view. Refined artistic design and calm service.
My tip
Some rooms have two floors (loft bed), suitable for a family of three. The north is cooler and cloudier than the south.
· San Cristóbal de La Laguna
A historic Canarian mansion in the heart of La Laguna, a World Heritage site, with spacious rooms, some with a small kitchen. A good base for exploring the north and Mount Teide.
My tip
The spa has extra fees and needs advance booking; rooms with a kitchen help families.
· Adeje
An outlet centre in Adeje, south Tenerife, near the Costa Adeje hotel area, rated 4.2.
My tip
Near the Costa Adeje hotels; combine it with the nearby Siam Mall.
· GuĂa de Isora
A huge resort in the style of Moroccan fortresses on a slope overlooking the ocean and La Gomera, with a large spa with a water circuit, pools and a private beach. One of the most luxurious resorts in the Canary Islands.
My tip
Book the spa with your stay, as it does not allow visits without a prior booking; the villas and imperial suites suit large families.
· La Caleta (Adeje)
A modern resort in La Caleta on the Costa Adeje, with suites and villas with private pools and a spa with a thermal circuit. Rated exceptionally by its guests.
My tip
Villas with private pools give the family complete privacy; the âCorales Beachâ section is for adults, so book âCorales Suitesâ if you are travelling with children.
Chapter Three
My view in brief: All year round (around 22â28°), excellent in winter. Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holidayBars: lowest and highest temperature
January15° to 21°
Permanent spring (15â21°C), and snow sometimes covers the peak of Teide, making it a perfect winter destination. We recommend the Teide cable car with warm clothes.
No events listed in January. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Four
Where I wouldn't stay
The nightlife strip at Playa de las AméricasLas Américas (zona de ocio nocturno)
Part of Playa de las Américas is full of bars and loud nightclubs; choose the neighbouring Costa Adeje instead.
Hotels I recommend in Tenerife
Chapter Five
What deserves to come home with you from Tenerife: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
Canary bananas
PlĂĄtano de Canarias IGPA small spotted banana, very sweet and tastier than imported bananas.
Old Canarian potatoes
Papas antiguas de Canarias DOPHistoric potato varieties brought from the Andes, cooked in their skins in very salty water, âpapas arrugadasâ, and served with mojo sauce.
Canarian gofio
Gofio Canario IGPRoasted grain flour (wheat or maize), the staple food of the island's original inhabitants, mixed with milk, honey or broth.
Tenerife honey
Miel de Tenerife DOPProtected honey with rare distinctive varieties, including volcanic âtajinasteâ flower honey and âretama del Teideâ honey from the high slopes of Mount Teide.
Mojo sauce
Mojo rojo y verdeA hot red sauce of chilli and paprika, and a green one of coriander and garlic, sold packaged as a gift.
Canarian goat cheese
Queso de cabra canarioSoft and smoked goat cheeses from the island's farms; and âQueso Palmero DOPâ cheese from La Palma is available here.
Chapter Six
Tenerife has two airports: the South (TFS), closest to Costa Adeje (20 minutes), and the North (TFN), closest to Santa Cruz and La Laguna. The green âGuaguas TITSAâ buses cover the island, the âTen+â card cuts fares a lot, and a tram links Santa Cruz to La Laguna. But a rental car is almost essential for visiting Teide and the north comfortably. Taxis are available at the airports and in tourist areas, and ride-hailing apps are limited. Tips: going up Teide by cable car requires advance booking, and the weather on the mountain is much colder than on the coast.
Last reviewed1 October 2026
