Old town
Zona Vella / Casco histĂłrico
Around the cathedral and Obradoiro Square: all pedestrian, safe and full of atmosphere.
You'll find here
Historic hotels (including the famous parador) and boutique hotels.
53 places in and around Santiago de Compostela, 10 of them among my favourite picks.
Chapter One
The spiritual capital of Galicia and the destination of the famous Christian pilgrimage road. Almanzor reached it on his raid of 997 CE and carried its church bells to the Mezquita-Catedral de CĂłrdoba. Its old town is listed as a World Heritage Site.
Figures of Santiago de Compostela
Almanzor
Chamberlain of the Umayyad caliphate, who reached Santiago de Compostela in the far north in 997 CE, one of his most distant and famous raids.
Maestro Mateo
A sculptor and architect who made the Portico of Glory (PĂłrtico da Gloria) in the cathedral, one of the masterpieces of Romanesque sculpture.
RosalĂa de Castro
The great poet of Galician literature, born in Santiago. Her house in nearby PadrĂłn is a museum.
RamĂłn MarĂa del Valle-InclĂĄn
A Galician writer and playwright who studied in Santiago and died there.
Chapter Two
1 hour-by-hour day plan and 2 walking routes I drew myself in Santiago de Compostela, with the places to pray and eat where I marked them.
Chapter Three
53 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
The end of the âWay of Saint Jamesâ and one of Europe's most famous landmarks; its baroque façade looks over Obradoiro Square. Historians record that Almanzor raided it in 387 AH / 997 CE and carried its bells to the Mezquita-Catedral de CĂłrdoba.
My tip
Go up to the roofs on a pre-booked guided tour; the square is loveliest and calmest in the evening.
A guided tour over the stone rooftops of Santiago Cathedral, with views of Obradoiro Square and the old town, along with the cathedral museum and the monastery.
My tip
Book the tour online in advance (groups are limited). One hour. Not suitable for anyone afraid of heights.
A vast architectural complex by Peter Eisenman on Monte GaiĂĄs, with undulating stone buildings that look like part of the hill. It contains a museum, a library, free exhibitions and a Galician forest.
My tip
One to two hours. Most exhibitions are free. Bus from the centre or by car. A view of the cathedral.
The museum of traditional Galician life in the monastery of San Domingos de Bonaval. Its most famous feature is the unique triple spiral staircase from the 17th century.
My tip
An hour and a half. Closed Monday. Combine it with the neighbouring Parque de San Domingos de Bonaval and the Contemporary Art Centre.
A free museum in Praza das PraterĂas that explains the phenomenon of pilgrimage to Santiago and the history of the city. From its upper floor there is a close view of the cathedral.
My tip
45â90 minutes. Free. Luggage lockers for a âŹ1 coin. Closed Monday.
A white granite building by the Portuguese architect Ălvaro Siza (1993), next to Bonaval, showing free contemporary art and with a roof terrace with a view.
My tip
One hour. Free. Closed Monday. Ask to go up to the roof.
Pedro Roca
Chef Pedro Roca's restaurant, listed in the Michelin Guide, near the Mercado de Abastos, serving Galician cooking with skill and a contemporary touch.
TryOctopus, crab, Galician beef, rĂa fish, dessert
Booking essential · Suits couples and business meetings
Tira do Cordel
A historic fish grill on Finisterre beach near âthe end of the worldâ, mentioned in the Michelin Guide, grilling whole fish over embers.
Signature dishWhole fish grilled over embers
Booking advised · Suits families and children, couples and friends and groups
Lonxa d'Alvaro
A seafood restaurant in MuxĂa, the holy fishing village on the Costa da Morte, mentioned in the Michelin Guide.
TryPercebes, grilled fish of the day, octopus, Galician beef steak
Booking advised · Suits families and children, couples and friends and groups
Retiro da Costiña
A two-Michelin-star restaurant in the rural town of Santa Comba, led by chef Manuel Costiña.
Signature dishTasting menu (MenĂș degustaciĂłn)
Booking essential · Suits couples and business meetings
Casa de Xantar O Dezaseis
A beloved traditional Galician restaurant in a stone cellar on San Pedro Street, where pilgrims enter the city.
TryGalician octopus, crab croquettes, roast lamb, scallops
Booking advised · Suits families and children and friends and groups
Curro da Parra
A small restaurant in an alley near the Mercado de Abastos, with modern Galician cooking and a small terrace, among the highest-rated restaurants in the city.
TryBlack tomato salad, tuna, seasonal fish dishes, âDelicâ tasting menu
Booking essential · Suits couples and business meetings
The largest and loveliest of Santiago's gardens, with ancient oak trees and the âPaseo da Ferraduraâ walk, which gives the most famous view of the cathedral.
My tip
Come in the afternoon so the sun is on the cathedral in your photos.
A terraced garden on the site of the old monastery, among the oak trees and the friars' orchard. From its top there is a lovely view of the cathedral towers, especially at sunset.
My tip
Steep and slippery in the rain. 30â45 minutes. Its entrance is next to the Museo do Pobo Galego.
The highest viewpoint over Santiago: a forest path climbs to a summit with panoramic views of the city, the cathedral and the surrounding mountains.
My tip
About an hour's climb from the centre (some sections are steep). You can drive there. Trainers.
A green valley in the heart of the old town, with meadows, children's play areas and a walkway overlooking Santiago's rooftops. Quiet and with few tourists.
My tip
15 minutes from the Mercado de Abastos. Good for a break with children.
· ArzĂșa
A Galician country house (âpazoâ) from the 18th century near ArzĂșa, with quiet rooms and home cooking, on the French Way.
My tip
40 minutes from Santiago de Compostela. Ask for the family rooms.
· Ribeira
The largest moving sand dune in Galicia, with coastal lagoons and a long wild beach, crossed by wooden walkways and bird hides. The visitor centre gives out route maps.
My tip
Climbing the great dune is forbidden to protect it; it is viewed from the walkways. Swim with care, as the currents are strong. The visitor centre is closed on Monday.
· DumbrĂa
The only waterfall in mainland Europe whose river (the Xallas) falls straight into the sea. It drops about 40 m from Monte Pindo at the Galician âCoast of Deathâ. On some summer nights water is released from the dam and the waterfall is lit up, a majestic sight.
My tip
A short wooden walkway from the car park to the viewing platform. Drive up to âMirador do Ăzaroâ for a panoramic view of the ocean and the sunset.
· Fisterra
âThe end of the earthâ to the Romans: a rocky headland on the Atlantic that was thought to be the last known land, and the end of the âWay of Saint Jamesâ (marker 0.00 km). Lighthouse of 1853 and a legendary sunset view over the ocean.
My tip
Sunset here is an unforgettable experience, but the wind is cold even in summer. An hour and a quarter from Santiago. Combine it with MuxĂa and the Coast of Death (Costa da Morte).
· Silleda
One of the highest waterfalls in Galicia, it drops about 30 m through dense oak and chestnut woods. A viewpoint on large rocks shows it in full before you go down to its base.
My tip
The path is easy and shady but has steps; the flow may weaken late in summer. Watch out for insects in summer.
The pilgrims' hospital built by the Catholic Monarchs in 1499 on Obradoiro Square, in front of the cathedral; one of the oldest hotels in the world.
My tip
Book very early; hot dishes at breakfast are on request.
An old monastery near the cathedral, with an indoor pool and a historic dining hall.
My tip
You can reach it by car, then a short walk to the square.
A five-star hotel in an old convent with quiet gardens, near the Alameda park and a ten-minute walk from the cathedral. It has ample parking and an excellent breakfast.
My tip
Rooms on the even-numbered floors look out on the cathedral; ask for them when booking.
A small, renovated boutique hotel in the old quarter, a five-minute walk from the cathedral. Some rooms have a courtyard or private terrace.
My tip
Air conditioning is weak during heatwaves; ask for the room with a private terrace.
A historic stone mansion with modern facilities, next to the Mercado de Abastos in the old quarter. Some rooms have glazed balconies overlooking the market and the churches.
My tip
Ask for a room overlooking the market. Breakfast is simple, so rely on the market cafés.
A four-star hotel with gardens, an outdoor pool and an indoor pool, in a quiet area a 10â15 minute walk from the old town. Its rooms are spacious and suit families.
My tip
The outdoor pool is a summer highlight. When booking, ask about pork-free breakfast options.
Santiago's historic market with its stone arcades. The second most visited place after the cathedral, it sells Galician seafood and cheeses, and some restaurants will cook what you buy.
My tip
Saturday morning is the busiest time, and the market is closed on Sunday. Agree on the price before they cook.
The three parallel stone arcaded streets that run from the cathedral to the Alameda park, with shops selling silver jewellery, black amber (azabache) and Santiago cake.
My tip
Walk it in an hour. The tourist office is on RĂșa do Vilar. Livelier in the evening.
A wide terraced square behind the cathedral, where the âHoly Doorâ opens in Jubilee years, bordered by the silent monastery of San Paio. One of the city's most beautiful corners at night.
My tip
Pass through it between Obradoiro and PraterĂas; its steps are a good place to sit.
Occupies the old halls of the âCasino de Santiagoâ (a social club founded in 1873) on RĂșa do Vilar, with its ornate ceilings, carved wood and a grand piano in the middle of the hall. An elegant cafĂ© where pilgrims go after reaching the cathedral.
My tip
Coffee or hot chocolate with Tarta de Santiago (almond cake) in the afternoon. It opens from midday only, and the loveliest time is late afternoon on rainy days.
· Cuntis
A thermal complex in the town of Cuntis between Santiago and Pontevedra, with a pool half indoors and half outdoors, at 28 degrees, and basins at 33 degrees. Clean and reasonably priced.
My tip
Keep to the end time of your session, as the staff are strict. It can be combined with a day in Santiago (40 minutes).
Chapter Four
Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holidayBars: lowest and highest temperature
June13° to 22°
Pleasant (13â22°C). We recommend a trip to Cabo de Finisterre (the end of the world).
No events listed in June. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Five
Hotels I recommend in Santiago de Compostela
Chapter Six
What deserves to come home with you from Santiago de Compostela: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
Santiago cake
Tarta de Santiago IGPA dense almond cake with almost no flour, decorated with the Cross of Saint James in icing sugar. The city's symbol, and a gift that travels well.
Tetilla cheese
Queso Tetilla DOPA soft, buttery Galician cow's-milk cheese shaped like a cone, made from the milk of Galicia's cows. Mild in flavour and suits everyone.
ArzĂșa-Ulloa cheese
Queso ArzĂșa-Ulloa DOPA creamy cow's-milk cheese from the ArzĂșa area on the pilgrim road, soft and mild.
PadrĂłn peppers
Pemento de HerbĂłn DOPThe famous small green pepper, pimientos de PadrĂłn, is fried in oil and salt. The saying goes: âsome are hot and some are notâ. Its season is summer.
Filloas
Thin, crĂȘpe-like pancakes served with honey or sugar. Avoid the âfilloas de sangreâ version made with blood.
Chapter Seven
Santiago de Compostela is best visited on foot, and the train station is a 15-minute walk from the old town. From RosalĂa de Castro airport: a bus to the centre in about 20â30 minutes, or a taxi for about 22â25 euros. Taxis are available; ride-hailing apps are limited. Tips: it rains a lot all year, so bring an umbrella; the old town is entirely pedestrian; and a car is useful only for coast trips (Finisterre).
Last reviewed1 October 2026