Lanzarote
The volcanic island that the artist César Manrique turned into an open-air gallery: Timanfaya National Park, where it feels like Mars; Jameos del Agua and the Cueva de los Verdes inside lava tunnels; the Mirador del Río lookout; and the golden beaches of Papagayo.
- When to go
- All year round; nicest from October to May
- How long you need
- 4–5 days
- For whom
- Couples, families and lovers of strange landscapes
Chapter One
The story of Lanzarote
A volcanic island taken for Castile in 1402 CE by the Normans Jean de Béthencourt and Gadifer de La Salle; its whole nature is a UNESCO biosphere reserve. Its white architecture, in harmony with nature, owes its character to the artist César Manrique.
Figures of Lanzarote
- Around 1362–1425
Jean de Béthencourt
The Norman adventurer who began the conquest of the Canaries from Lanzarote in 1402 CE.
- 1878–1945
Blas Cabrera
One of Spain's great physicists, born in Arrecife.
- 1919–1992
César Manrique
An artist and architect born in Arrecife, who designed “Jameos del Agua” and “Mirador del Río”, and his volcanic house, the “César Manrique Foundation”.
- 1922–2010
José Saramago
The Portuguese novelist and Nobel laureate (1998), who lived in Tías, Lanzarote, from 1993 until his death; his house “A Casa” is a museum.
Chapter Two
Places in Lanzarote
16 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
Heritage and monuments
1César Manrique Foundation
· Tahíche
The house of the artist who shaped Lanzarote's identity, built inside 5 volcanic bubbles beneath a lava flow, with his works and art collection.
My tip
Allow 1 to 2 hours; it can be combined with his other house in Haría in one day.
Restaurants and cafés
3Casa Rafa
Fresh fish on the volcanic coast of El Golfo, beside the green lake; lunch Tuesday–Saturday.
- The fishing village of El Golfo is the destination of every visitor to Lanzarote, to see the green lake and eat fish at sunset; Casa Rafa is its highest-rated restaurant, and booking is essential.
TryGrilled fresh fish, grilled octopus, prawns on coarse salt, wrinkled potatoes.
Booking essential · Suits families and children, couples and friends and groups
Lilium
Contemporary Lanzarote cuisine recognised by the Repsol Guide, in Arrecife marina; closed Sundays and Mondays.
- One of the island's standout restaurants according to critics, it reinterprets local produce (fish, cheese, volcanic potatoes) in a modern style, with a view of the marina.
TryTasting menu, local fish, Lanzarote cheese, wrinkled potatoes with mojo.
Booking essential · Suits couples and business meetings
Kamezí
A restaurant in the luxury “Kamezí” resort in Playa Blanca, in the south of Lanzarote.
- Michelin star (2026) — the first in Lanzarote; innovative Atlantic cuisine on the island of volcanoes.
TryTasting menu, Lanzarote fish, local volcanic dishes.
Booking essential · Smart casual · Suits couples and families and children
Nature and walks
8Timanfaya National Park
· Yaiza
A sea of lava and volcanoes in rust and charcoal colours, formed by the eruptions of the 18th century, looking like the surface of another planet, with demonstrations of the earth's heat that turn water to steam in seconds.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car to Islote de Hilario (entrance ticket), then the park bus along “Volcano Road” without getting off; very little walking. Restaurant and toilets at the centre. Free walking is not allowed. There is no public bus to it. Queues at peak times.
My tip
The bus tour inside the park (about 35 minutes) is included in the ticket; come at opening time to avoid the car queues.
Jardín de Cactus
· Guatiza
César Manrique's last work (1990 CE): a stone amphitheatre in an old quarry housing about 4500 cacti from 450 species, topped by a white windmill. One of the most astonishing gardens in the Canaries.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Stone paths and steps up to the mill; partly suitable for pushchairs.
My tip
Come in the morning or the afternoon to avoid tour buses; the café serves cactus-based food. A combined ticket for Manrique's centres is cheaper.
Mirador del Río
· Haría
A viewpoint designed by Manrique inside a cliff, 475 metres up, overlooking La Graciosa island and the Chinijo archipelago, with a sea colour you will not forget.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Car park in front of the entrance (ticket); walking inside the building is simple, with a few steps; café and toilets. Strong wind and fog at times. A car is practically essential (very few buses to Yé).
My tip
Check the clouds before you go; inside there is a café with glass frontage overlooking the view.
Playa de Papagayo
· Playa Blanca
Lanzarote's most beautiful beach: a golden sandy bay protected by cliffs, with calm, clear water, within the Los Ajaches reserve in the south of the island.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- A dirt track inside the Los Ajaches protected area, with a fee for entering by car; a car park above the cliff, then 5–10 min down a rocky path or steps to the sand, and a tiring climb on the way back. Restaurant above the cliff; no shade on the beach. Not suitable for pushchairs.
My tip
A 3-euro fee for cars and a dirt road; there are no toilets, so be prepared. The waves are calm for children.
Villa de Teguise
· Teguise
Lanzarote's historic capital until 1847 CE and one of “Spain's most beautiful villages”; its white streets and quiet mansions are guarded by Santa Bárbara castle on a volcanic crater. Its Sunday market is the most famous on the island.
What to see
San Miguel square and palaces · Santa Bárbara castle · Spínola palace · Sunday market · the white alleys
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- The town is flat; the castle is reached by car, on a nearby hill.
My tip
Come on Sunday morning for the market, then climb to the castle (pirate museum); on other days the town is very quiet.
Haría – Valle de las mil palmeras
· Haría
An oasis of palm trees in the arid north of Lanzarote, where two palms are traditionally planted for each newborn; the artist César Manrique spent his last years here. The Rincón de Haría viewpoint overlooks the valley and the Famara cliffs.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- The town is flat, and the viewpoint is reached by a dirt track, best on foot (about an hour there and back).
My tip
Visit Manrique's house in Haría and the crafts market on Saturday; combine it with the Mirador del Río terrace and the Jameos caves.
Charco Verde – El Golfo
· El Golfo (Yaiza)
An emerald-green lake in a half-submerged volcanic crater, separated from the ocean by a black sand beach. Its colour comes from microscopic algae, and the view from the terrace is one of Lanzarote's most famous photographs.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- A short, level path from the car park to the viewpoint (10 minutes); suitable for older people.
My tip
Combine it with Los Hervideros and the Janubio salt flats on a south-west tour of the island; the sunset here is wonderful.
Los Hervideros
· Yaiza
Cliffs of volcanic lava pierced by caves and holes from which the Atlantic surges violently, as if boiling, which is where the name comes from. Safe paths between the black rocks.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Short stone paths going up and down; car park opposite, on the road.
My tip
Most beautiful when the waves are high; hold children's hands. It lies between El Golfo and the salt flats.
Experiences and family
4Museo Atlántico Lanzarote
· Playa Blanca
Europe's first underwater museum, created by the sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor off Playa Blanca, with hundreds of human statues at a depth of 12–14 metres that have become artificial reefs hosting marine life.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- Departing from Marina Rubicón in Playa Blanca by boat; diving to a depth of 12–15 m, with a dive certificate or a trial dive. Cancelled in rough seas. It cannot be seen without diving or snorkelling.
My tip
Visiting is by diving only, with an accredited centre (beginners may take a trial dive); the water is clear most of the year.
Jameos del Agua
· Haría
A volcanic tunnel whose roof collapsed, which the artist César Manrique turned into a masterpiece: an underground lake inhabited by blind white crabs, a white pool, gardens and an events hall inside the rock.
My tip
Book tickets online and come at 10:00, before the tour buses.
Cueva de los Verdes
· Haría
A guided tour through a kilometres-long lava tunnel underground, with theatrical lighting and a visual surprise at the end whose secret is not revealed.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Car park beside the entrance in the north of the island. The guided tour covers about 1 km inside the tunnel and takes about 45 min, with uneven ground, some steps and low passages. Not suitable for pushchairs. Public buses are rare, so a car is the better option.
My tip
Tickets are online only; the tour lasts 45 minutes, in Spanish and English, with stooping needed in some passages.
Rancho Texas Lanzarote Park
· Puerto del Carmen
A Wild West-style park in Puerto del Carmen combining a zoo, bird and sea lion shows, with pools and water slides in the same section.
- Ages
- 2–14
- Setting
- Outdoors
My tip
Booking online is 10% cheaper; full day. Bring swimwear for the water section.
Chapter Three
When to go to Lanzarote
My view in brief: All year round; nicest from October to May. Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holiday
January
No events listed in January. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Four
What to bring home
What deserves to come home with you from Lanzarote: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
Janubio salt
Sal de JanubioArtisan sea salt from the historic Janubio salt flats; its flor de sal is luxurious.
Lanzarote sweet potato
Batata de LanzaroteSweet potato grown in volcanic soil; very sweet.
Lanzarote goat cheese
Queso de cabra de LanzaroteAward-winning goat cheeses, the most famous from Quesería El Faro.
Mojo and Canarian paprika sauce
Mojo canarioRed and green mojo, with wrinkled potatoes (papas arrugadas).
Toasted-grain flour
GofioTraditional toasted-grain flour.
Chapter Five