Badajoz
13 places in and around Badajoz, 3 of them among my favourite picks.
Chapter One
The story of Badajoz
Badajoz was founded by Ibn Marwan al-Yilliqi in 875 CE. In the Taifa period it became the capital of the Aftasid kingdom, and its alcazaba is one of the largest in al-Andalus. It fell in 1230 CE.
Figures of Badajoz
- d. 889
Ibn Marwan al-Yilliqi
Founder of Badajoz in 875 CE, after his revolt against Córdoba.
- d. 1068
al-Muzaffar
The learned king of Badajoz, author of a literary and historical encyclopaedia known as the Kitab al-Muzaffari.
- d. 1094
al-Mutawakkil
The last Aftasid king and one of their poets; he was killed when the Almoravids took Badajoz.
- d. 1134
Ibn Abdun
A poet and writer at the Aftasid court, famous for his rhyming elegy on them, “al-Dahr yufji' ba'da al-'ayn bi-l-athar”.
Chapter Two
Places in Badajoz
13 places I chose, arranged in chapters. A gold star marks one of my favourite picks.
Heritage and monuments
9Alcazaba de Badajoz
The city was founded in 261 AH / 875 CE by Ibn Marwan al-Yilliqi, and later became the capital of the Aftasid kingdom in the Taifa period, whose court was one of the most splendid in literature. The present alcazaba walls are Almohad (12th century) and among the largest alcazabas in Spain; its most famous tower is the octagonal Espantaperros. Inside is the Provincial Archaeological Museum with an important Islamic collection.
My tip
Entry to the walls is free; do not miss the archaeological museum inside the alcazaba and the walls' view over the Guadiana river.
Hornachos
· Hornachos
- Morisco heritage
A town in Extremadura most of whose people were Moriscos who kept their cohesion, arms and remarkable influence. At the expulsion (1609–1610) the Hornachegos left as one group for Salé and Rabat, and formed the core of the "Republic of Bou Regreg" (1627), known for naval jihad and correspondence with the kings of Europe.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- By car only. The town sits on a slope, and the climb to the castle remains takes about 30–45 minutes on a steep, rocky dirt track with no shade and no water. A few cafés in the town. Very hot in summer.
My tip
About an hour from Mérida; climb to the remains of the Andalusian castle above the town for a view over the plain.
Sagrajas (campo de batalla de Zalaca)
· Sagrajas
On 12 Rajab 479 AH (23 October 1086 CE), Yusuf ibn Tashfin crossed with the Almoravids in answer to the appeal of al-Mu'tamid ibn 'Abbad and the Taifa kings, and inflicted a crushing defeat on Alfonso VI on the plain of Zalaca, north-east of Badajoz. The battle halted the Castilian advance after the fall of Toledo, and prolonged the life of al-Andalus by nearly two centuries.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- There is no archaeological site for the battle: flat fields near Sagrajas (15 km from Badajoz) with a small memorial. No services, no shade. A car is essential.
My tip
There is no interpretation centre; the village is small, 10 km from Badajoz, and the surrounding farmland is the battlefield. Combine it with the Aftasid alcazaba of Badajoz.
Alcazaba de Reina
· Reina
A vast Almohad alcazaba on a hill above the village of Reina, south of Badajoz, with extensive walls and towers and views over the Campiña plains.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car only (buses are rare); a road climbs to near the alcazaba, then a short walk over uneven ground. No shade or services; intensely hot in summer. A small café in the village.
My tip
Entry is free and uncrowded; a few steps away is the Roman site of Regina and its theatre.
Castillo de Medellín
· Medellín
A castle on a hill overlooking the Guadiana river and its historic bridge, built on the foundations of an Islamic fort; beside it is a Roman theatre.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car (40 minutes from Mérida); a road climbs to the castle car park. Walking the walls involves steps. Few services in the town. Intensely hot in summer.
My tip
The visit comes with commentary from the ticket clerk; you can walk the walls. An excellent stop between Madrid and Sevilla.
Castillo de Magacela
· Magacela
A castle on a rocky summit, visible from afar above the La Serena plains, with Islamic ruins some of which have been restored recently.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- By car to the village, then a good uphill track of 15–20 minutes to the rocky summit; the ruins are unprotected. No shade or water; avoid summer midday.
My tip
The track to the summit is good, but the ruins need care with children; nearby are prehistoric archaeological sites.
Alcazaba de Jerez de los Caballeros
· Jerez de los Caballeros
An Islamic alcazaba at the top of the white town, which became a stronghold of the Knights Templar; around it rise towering Baroque church towers.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- By car (few buses); the lanes climb to the alcazaba at the top of the town (10 minutes). Full services in the town.
My tip
Wander the white lanes up to the alcazaba; the place is quiet and uncrowded.
Castillo de Feria
· Feria
A 15th-century castle on a rocky summit above a white village, with a massive fortified keep with rounded corners; from the top the view extends over the Badajoz plains to the Sierra Morena.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- 25 minutes from Zafra and 45 minutes from Badajoz by car. A slope and stairs up the tower; one hour.
My tip
The inner courtyard is free and the tower has a small ticket. The village lanes are very narrow, so park near the church and walk up for 10 minutes.
Castillo de Luna (Alburquerque)
· Alburquerque
A huge castle on a rocky summit near the Portuguese border, combining layers from the 13th to the 15th century; it belonged to Álvaro de Luna. Entry is free, and from the top of the tower you can see Portugal.
- Moderate effort · needs a car
- 45 minutes from Badajoz by car. Climb through the old town, then stairs; an hour and a half.
My tip
Entry and the museum are free; walk through the medieval quarter La Villa Adentro beforehand. The American city of Albuquerque was named after a duke from this town.
Nature and walks
1Hotel Boutique Iulia
· Medina de las Torres
A boutique hotel in a historic house in the village of Medina de las Torres, in the Badajoz countryside, with elegant rooms, a courtyard and a pool — one of the highest-rated hotels in Extremadura.
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- Inside the village of Medina de las Torres. By car from Zafra (20 min) or Mérida (50 min); park on the street near the hotel. The village is small with limited services; the pharmacy and large shops are in Zafra. Summers are very hot (40°+).
My tip
A quiet base for visiting Roman Mérida and Zafra, with its Andalusian alcazaba.
Day trips
2Plaza Grande de Zafra
· Zafra
An elegant white town south of Badajoz nicknamed "Little Seville", with its two adjoining arcaded squares and the fortified Palace of the Dukes of Feria, now a Parador hotel. It was a major trading centre for livestock markets.
What to see
The Plaza Grande and the Plaza Chica with their arcades · the Palace of the Dukes of Feria (Parador) and its marble courtyard · the "Arco de Jerez" and remains of the walls · the Convent of Santa Clara and its museum · the streets of the white town
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- One hour from Badajoz or Mérida, and 1 hour 40 minutes from Sevilla by car; train from Mérida. Flat and easy; two hours.
My tip
You can visit the Parador's courtyard. The town is an excellent stop between Mérida and Sevilla, and its evenings are pleasant.
Olivenza – Torre del Homenaje
· Olivenza
A town with a Portuguese character that stayed under Portugal for five centuries until 1801 CE, with bastioned walls, a 36-metre fortified tower reached by an inner ramp, and the church of La Magdalena in a distinctive Manueline style.
What to see
The fortress tower and the Ethnographic Museum · the church of La Magdalena with its twisted columns · the Espíritu Santo gate and the bastioned walls · the painted Portuguese pavements and blue tiles · the old Ajuda bridge over the Guadiana river
- Easy to reach · needs a car
- 30 minutes from Badajoz by car. The town is flat, and the tower is climbed by a long slope with no stairs; two hours.
My tip
One ticket covers the tower and the museum and is inexpensive; closed on Mondays. Try the Portuguese-origin sweet sericaia.
Mosques and halal
1Mezquita de Badajoz (Dar Al-Nourayn)
The community mosque in Badajoz, the closest to those visiting Mérida and Extremadura.
My tip
Friday prayer is usually between about 13:30 and 14:30 (it can run to 15:00 in summer); check with the mosque beforehand. It opens from Fajr to Isha.
Chapter Three
When to go to Badajoz
Pick a month to see its weather and events.
Among my best months An event or holiday
January
No events listed in January. A quiet month, and prices are often lower.
Chapter Four
What to bring home
What deserves to come home with you from Badajoz: the genuine article, and what carries a protected origin.
- DOP
La Serena cheese
Queso de La Serena DOPCreamy sheep's cheese, "Merina", curdled with vegetable rennet from wild artichoke flower, from the south-east of Badajoz.
- DOP
Monterrubio oil
Aceite Monterrubio DOPOil from the "Cornezuelo" and "Picual" varieties, from the south of the Badajoz province, fruity and pungent.
Técula Mécula de Olivenza
A sweet of almonds, egg yolks and sugar from the border town of Olivenza, with a Portuguese influence. Note: some of its traditional recipes add lard, so ask about the ingredients before buying.
Fruit of the Guadiana's lush plains
Frutas de las Vegas del GuadianaIn summer, Badajoz is one of Spain's biggest producers of peaches, plums and tomatoes.
- DOP
La Vera paprika
Pimentón de la Vera DOPExtremaduran smoked paprika is available in every shop in the province.
Chapter Five
